Incognegro
Member
I definitely was NOT expecting to see those wispy looking branches fluff out and pack it on like that that's for sure!! Again...impressive..
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Vertical Scrog
- Thread starter Ichabod Crane
- Start date
You were not the only one. Have to wait for final numbers though.
When I trimmed the fans I flipped at that point. I would not recommend it to some one who has not grown that strain at least once to tell how much it stretches first. If I stripped a OG Kush like I did the Sourbubble X SSSDH I would have lost a lot of bud as the OG does not stretch much and the Soububble does.
So to get under some peoples skin a little i thought I could post what I got today.
I went to Ace Hardware and they where closing out some grow gear. Apparently the guy at the check out was smoking something because I got 34 3 gallon dirt bags, 2 bottles of PH reference solution and 5 packs of 1.5 inch rock wool cubes that have 45 cubes each for $45. The rock wool cubes were $1.99 each on sale, the bags were $1.99 each on sale and the reference solution was $3.49 each on sale.
So I was not going to argue the price and I just thought it was marked down even more than it was. Well I got home and looked at the price and he charged me 5 X $1.99 for the rock wool cubes. That was correct. Well the quantity of bags was 15 not 34 and the price was correct at $1.99 each. The reference solution was not even charged to me. So the clown under charged me like $47.
Now I have to go back and let them know I was under charged.
Well even if I pay the extra it still is more than half off. What a steal.
I went to Ace Hardware and they where closing out some grow gear. Apparently the guy at the check out was smoking something because I got 34 3 gallon dirt bags, 2 bottles of PH reference solution and 5 packs of 1.5 inch rock wool cubes that have 45 cubes each for $45. The rock wool cubes were $1.99 each on sale, the bags were $1.99 each on sale and the reference solution was $3.49 each on sale.
So I was not going to argue the price and I just thought it was marked down even more than it was. Well I got home and looked at the price and he charged me 5 X $1.99 for the rock wool cubes. That was correct. Well the quantity of bags was 15 not 34 and the price was correct at $1.99 each. The reference solution was not even charged to me. So the clown under charged me like $47.
Now I have to go back and let them know I was under charged.
Well even if I pay the extra it still is more than half off. What a steal.
village green
Member
Dude's trying to do you a solid and you're probably going to end up getting him fired.
Dude's trying to do you a solid and you're probably going to end up getting him fired.
I feel better about paying for the stuff I am getting. He may be trying to do me a solid but he is hurting the store owner at the same time.
So to not rat him out I just took the PH solution and a bag back and told a cashier that some one miss counted and to ring me up for so many of this and that. I paid the $46.42 and left the store.
I also went next store to the store and returned a bag of pretzels that belonged to the person who left before I did and paid for them.
Now I feel better.
village green
Member
You're a good man. Wish there was more like you.I feel better about paying for the stuff I am getting. He may be trying to do me a solid but he is hurting the store owner at the same time.
So to not rat him out I just took the PH solution and a bag back and told a cashier that some one miss counted and to ring me up for so many of this and that. I paid the $46.42 and left the store.
I also went next store to the store and returned a bag of pretzels that belonged to the person who left before I did and paid for them.
Now I feel better.
Karma bro, it works...I feel better about paying for the stuff I am getting. He may be trying to do me a solid but he is hurting the store owner at the same time.
So to not rat him out I just took the PH solution and a bag back and told a cashier that some one miss counted and to ring me up for so many of this and that. I paid the $46.42 and left the store.
I also went next store to the store and returned a bag of pretzels that belonged to the person who left before I did and paid for them.
Now I feel better.
Just yesterday I experienced the results. Took the family to breakfast downtown Santa Cruz, which is an adventure in itself. Between the whigger with his pants around his ankles selling weed on the corner, and bums begging for a smoke... In principle, I don't feed the trolls, but my fiance insisted on giving a cigarette to one.
We ordered breakfast, including a liter of mamosa, our bill was paid before our food arrived! A local car salesman, who we have done business with paid the $100 tab...
The judge of character is to do the right thing when others are not looking. I just feel better about myself when I don't stick it to some one. Beside did you see my grow, I can afford it. I have three of these coming out in the next two weeks.
That is awesome.
OK here it is.
The rooms are 5 foot by 7 foot and vary in height from 7 to 8. that is 245 cubic feet and 280 cubic feet for each size room. I have two of each size here. I am still building two and will be done soon I hope. Other things keep getting in the way.
For air exchange two pull air from the center area a two pull from out side the lung type room. They are passive and have no fan to feed them. They drop air by the back of the room with a 8 inch metal duct. this one feeds from out side.
In the bottom photo you see the plug for my fan which is set on it's lowest setting.
Here you can see one that draws from the lung room to the upper right of the right hand door.
The duct is painted flat black on the inside to stop light from entering the room threw the pipe. It has two 90 degree elbows on it.
The fans are 8 inch Wind Gods and are rated at 745 cubic feet per minute. So the air exchange is 3 times for the small rooms and 2.67 times on the large rooms. The fans draw air from the ceiling close to the top of my weed wheels.
For the lighting I use a 1k bulb and a 600 watt. Depending on the plants is where the bulb goes. If the plant is denser on the top like some growers I know the 1k goes to the top. If not then the 600 goes on the top.
This leaves me with the problem of identifying where each bulb is and which cord to use for which ballast. I have both my cords coming out of the same hole up near the ceiling so I have tagged the bottom cord. I also have made a flip box with two different colored cords.
In this picture you can clearly see the tag as well as the colored cords.
The flip box was built so that the white coming in goes to the two white lines going out. There is also a black coming in and two blacks going out. This picture shows this.
Now to make it so that I don't confuse which black and white cords are on the same time I have only place a black and a white on each side. This used three sides. The fourth side is the timer line.
If you look above you will see the timer in my receptacle box. This box is only rated at 20 amps so my ballast are run on different circuits so I don't cause a fire. Also notice that it is turned side ways. I did this so that the plugs do not fall out of the box.
The air filters are Phresh air filters and are 8 inches by I believe 24. They are rated for the fans. In order to hang the filters I went to the electrical area and got some zip ties and zipped a clip to them and hung them from hooks. The hooks are the same that I use to hold my top light up, and to hold the cords to the walls so they are not in my way when I move my racks around.
Here is a picture of the set up for the filters.
The zip tie I believe was 34 inches and was more than long enough. In fact I tucked some of the extra under the tie.
The AC unit you see is 14.4k so it will cool 3.6k of lighting. Since my rooms are only running 3.2k I am with in the limit of the AC to cool these rooms.
I hope this answers some of the questions you had with my other set up. If not ask away.
This leaves me with the problem of identifying where each bulb is and which cord to use for which ballast. I have both my cords coming out of the same hole up near the ceiling so I have tagged the bottom cord. I also have made a flip box with two different colored cords.
In this picture you can clearly see the tag as well as the colored cords.
The flip box was built so that the white coming in goes to the two white lines going out. There is also a black coming in and two blacks going out. This picture shows this.
Now to make it so that I don't confuse which black and white cords are on the same time I have only place a black and a white on each side. This used three sides. The fourth side is the timer line.
If you look above you will see the timer in my receptacle box. This box is only rated at 20 amps so my ballast are run on different circuits so I don't cause a fire. Also notice that it is turned side ways. I did this so that the plugs do not fall out of the box.
The air filters are Phresh air filters and are 8 inches by I believe 24. They are rated for the fans. In order to hang the filters I went to the electrical area and got some zip ties and zipped a clip to them and hung them from hooks. The hooks are the same that I use to hold my top light up, and to hold the cords to the walls so they are not in my way when I move my racks around.
Here is a picture of the set up for the filters.
The zip tie I believe was 34 inches and was more than long enough. In fact I tucked some of the extra under the tie.
The AC unit you see is 14.4k so it will cool 3.6k of lighting. Since my rooms are only running 3.2k I am with in the limit of the AC to cool these rooms.
I hope this answers some of the questions you had with my other set up. If not ask away.
Yes it is the foil lined OSB. I don't so much use it for the light reflection as I do for moisture control. All the seams are sealed with foil tape. The bottom of the wall is caulked to the floor. I had been taping the bottom with the foil and found it had come lose from the nutes that sometimes leak. Where it met the wall the OSB had absorbed some and swollen up. to prevent this source of mold I have switched to caulk instead of tape. I have just recently started this so I have not tested it fully yet.
The passives come in from the top because of the lay out of the room. I can't draw from the sides as that is where my foundation is on some of the rooms. So in order to get them in I had to come from the front and that would have been a trip hazard. And well shit I can be clumsy some times.
I suspected as much on the passives, just wanted confirmation. I may have to do this myself, since I will have 3 rooms right next to each other, I might even have to come from the ceiling in the crawl space...
How much net airflow are you providing on your intakes? I figure you could use roof ventilation guidelines and be safe eh? When I set mine up, I just did two 6" passives for each 6" extraction. My worry is too much passive intake will provide unequal fresh air at the different points of intake air.
My thinking with my new 8x10 flower rooms is similar to what I have done, but with a 4th donut since I will have all my equipment outside the room. I will have four 6" extraction fans per room, with 4 intake vents (one in each corner). Now the question is, do I do equal intake with four 6" passives, or do I up it to 8"?...
Sorry for my rambling, just got ripped on USD with a patient of mine...
How much net airflow are you providing on your intakes? I figure you could use roof ventilation guidelines and be safe eh? When I set mine up, I just did two 6" passives for each 6" extraction. My worry is too much passive intake will provide unequal fresh air at the different points of intake air.
My thinking with my new 8x10 flower rooms is similar to what I have done, but with a 4th donut since I will have all my equipment outside the room. I will have four 6" extraction fans per room, with 4 intake vents (one in each corner). Now the question is, do I do equal intake with four 6" passives, or do I up it to 8"?...
Sorry for my rambling, just got ripped on USD with a patient of mine...
I just have a 8 inch passive intake and a 8 inch extraction as well. I amy add a fan later to move the air around the room some, but I don't know how much good that will do. The reflectex on the back of the screens tend to trap light and air on the inside of the wheel. That is why I said I am not relying on the foil lined OSB for light reflection.
Forgot to ask about the radiant barrier OSB. Can you take any light meter readings in a side by side and see what the reflective rating is? I think it is only a buck or two more per sheet, and if it eliminates the need for reflectix... I will be using my PVC membrane for my floors, and will just turn it up 4" on the walls and use a term-bar and caulking to seal it. I may even put a shower drain to allow me to hose the room down... Not sure if you use the stuff in your neck of the woods, but I have found good use of it. I framed a 4x6 table for another site, and "roofed it". The product was actually used as a pool liner in the 70s, and is has a near 0 perm rating.
Ok one more last info dump on you guys.
I will be getting kind of busy over the next two weeks and may not be able to get a good sized post on so I thought I would post my drying chamber set up.
The basic chamber is about 3 foot by 5 foot and 7 feet tall. It is just 2 X 2 with plastic stapled to it. I made the four walls this way and screwed the corners together. The top is a piece of plywood screwed to the side walls. I then in stalled a self sticking zipper to one side like this.
The dimensions were set by the trays I have on the bottom. The trays are washing machine pans I picked up at Menards. Here you can see what I am talking about.
You can also see in the above picture that I have a dehumidifier in the chamber as well as a fan. The dehumidifier has a timer on it and I use that to control my dry cycles. It also has a % RH that I can set the RH at. I will use that to speed up the drying if the buds are real wet and slow it down towards the end. The fan underneath just circulates the air in the screens that I use.
The screens can be placed in the center or to the side if I want. The center is the easiest to get to as it is just one screen. The side set up allows me to double the amount of screens I can place in the chamber. I have three hooks in the plywood top and the screen hangs like this.
You can also see that I tag each shelf as to what is on it.
As the bud dries I will move it around on the screens. That is the reason for the trays at the bottom. A lot of leaf and pistils will fall threw the screens and be caught in the trays. I just jar it up when I need to. I clean it up with a pancake turner which I also use to turn the buds on the screen. In this picture the pancake turn is shown with a pot tray. I use the tray to collect buds off of each layer when they are dried.
I don't want to over dry my bud so some times I pull it off of the screens and place it into a jar for 12-24 hours to even out. I do this at night when I will be away for to long of a time to keep a eye on the buds that are close to being done. This seems to prevent the smaller buds from getting to dry. After being in the jars if it is still to wet I can usually just place it back on the screen for a few hours then rejar it.
Hope this helps IC.
I will be getting kind of busy over the next two weeks and may not be able to get a good sized post on so I thought I would post my drying chamber set up.
The basic chamber is about 3 foot by 5 foot and 7 feet tall. It is just 2 X 2 with plastic stapled to it. I made the four walls this way and screwed the corners together. The top is a piece of plywood screwed to the side walls. I then in stalled a self sticking zipper to one side like this.
The dimensions were set by the trays I have on the bottom. The trays are washing machine pans I picked up at Menards. Here you can see what I am talking about.
You can also see in the above picture that I have a dehumidifier in the chamber as well as a fan. The dehumidifier has a timer on it and I use that to control my dry cycles. It also has a % RH that I can set the RH at. I will use that to speed up the drying if the buds are real wet and slow it down towards the end. The fan underneath just circulates the air in the screens that I use.
The screens can be placed in the center or to the side if I want. The center is the easiest to get to as it is just one screen. The side set up allows me to double the amount of screens I can place in the chamber. I have three hooks in the plywood top and the screen hangs like this.
You can also see that I tag each shelf as to what is on it.
As the bud dries I will move it around on the screens. That is the reason for the trays at the bottom. A lot of leaf and pistils will fall threw the screens and be caught in the trays. I just jar it up when I need to. I clean it up with a pancake turner which I also use to turn the buds on the screen. In this picture the pancake turn is shown with a pot tray. I use the tray to collect buds off of each layer when they are dried.
I don't want to over dry my bud so some times I pull it off of the screens and place it into a jar for 12-24 hours to even out. I do this at night when I will be away for to long of a time to keep a eye on the buds that are close to being done. This seems to prevent the smaller buds from getting to dry. After being in the jars if it is still to wet I can usually just place it back on the screen for a few hours then rejar it.
Hope this helps IC.
Sorry I can't figure out this light meter. I don't use it for reflecting light any way I use the refletix on the back of my screen. It is only a couple inches from the back of the plant at that point, and way less dispersed.
I use the OSB for a vapor and odor barrier. The added benefits are that it also allows me to mount things in my room and prevent mold from growing on the walls.
yeah i pull them down to but what i was refering to is drastic upsidedown tyingdown, seems to really slow the tip growth.
