Trick my Pod - The complete Aeroponics primer

[Dreamscape]

@ PodRacer - Massive Respect goin out to you ... I had read through the old "aeropod landing" thread you did and wasn't sure if you were going to stick around or not - but i'm glad you did !!!

Maybe one day when I get some more experience under my belt I'll build my own pod and move on from BioBuckets... Until then I can rest assured you've provided a great set of guidelines to go by )

Best of luck
~ Dream

 

[Guest]

I too must give you some rep points if it will let me.....

I too must give you some rep points if it will let me.....

I know you were worried about coming back and how the information would be received after some narrow minded, ignorant people ran you off. I am not putting them down but I have one of those semi-aero/NTF system and I just built it when you showed up.

Props have to go to TBug and IGT. They were doing their best with the knowledge they had but like myself, there was a vast amount we didn't know and even more we still don't know. Everything I learn just brings me 2-10 new questions. I think the attitude and open mindedness on IC has improved a lot and even if we don't agree. We still learn by discussion. I heard someone say on here the other night..." people arguing about pot is such an oxymoron".

Everyone can learn something from someone. Even me once in awhile so go figure.

Hey I build that Stanley in-line blower on here and it is so quiet and strong. If you are looking at buying a new fan ....... check it out in the equipment DIY department. For about $50 buck total. I modified it to be about a $250 dollar fan. Excellent.

Thanks for coming back Pod Racer and I think I am going to joint the TAG team.

Peace

 

[Ipleadafifth]

Hey Pod Racer!
thanks for answering all of our questions in a timely manner.
you are a gentleman and a scholar.

But Alas i have yet one more question to ask.
The Shurflo smart sensor 5.7 extreme is a 12volt DC pump.
i called the company and they said that they don't have a 115volt AC (plug in) version available.

Question is, did you wire it up using a 12volt AC adapter (sold at most electronic stores, easy fix), or is there a similar model with comparable specs that just plugs right in?

In your earlier pod racer parts post on page one, you did mention that you paid 20 bucks more for a line voltage version of a pump that came originally as a 12v DC.

On what web site could i find a 115v AC pump with great features like the one u recommend us to use, or i should just get the Shurflo 5.7 and just wire it up to a 12v AC adapter and call it a day?

Your knowledge and expertise is golden to our cause thank you.

P.S. you are right this pump is a tech junkie dream! best features for the money. thanks for the link.

 

[Pod Racer]

Wow - What love

Wow - What love

Thank you all, I'm glad I came back too. This is what it was like at first on OG when my old crew started. They were all just like you - Uber Cool. And we had the greatest time for like 1000 posts. Its was an amazing thread we actually had 3 running at one time, not any under 50 pages long. It was insane, but just like all you Aerokin, the Tek junkie can't escape the lure of this ride.
And you can tell TAGers by their desire to learn and open understanding. It isn't usally about how many grams per watt or anything like that. Its about perfection root tip to leaf tip.
And that is why I don't mind sharing and answering questions all day long. Not to mention it allows me to refresh my weak and feable mind. And expose me to some new technology. I never shy from a good debate, cause there is where you test your grit. But, yeah, insults and ignorance is hard to deal with anywhere and hell, we are all just tree huggin' hippies here. It is pot after all. Just for some it opens the mind to a universe of exploration and understanding, and others it just stones. I'm fortunate to be the first kind. I think most of you on this thread are too. We are all in great company, let's keep it that way always. We build a tight rig, and a tight crew. Peace out.

Now, I might be mistaken, but I think this is the exact pump I have now.

My Pump

If you look around you can find them on RV and Marine sights for like $159 usually. I paid like $270 when they were new on the market, however, you could use any Dia. pum that can handle over 50 psi. The foggers usually let off enough pressure that they don't cut off. With my usual table of about 22 foggers my pump pushes 50 psi tops. But holds it steady there for 30 seconds. Its worth the extra for the VSD models and I was just saying you can easily adapt the 12VDC models to AC with a transformer they usually sell on the sight with the pumps. Its usually the difference in the cost of the AC "Park Model" is what they call it and the 12VDC version.

My cyclestat is AC so I just buy those and forget the cheesy DIY timers and transformers, usually ends up being more expensive in the end. Good luck.

 

[Ipleadafifth]

Thanks again. Pod Racer

I think ima go with the shurflo 5.7 that you showed us .
Its relatively cheap at $174.95 compared to other models with similar specs (5.5 gpm and electronic self adjusting psi. with 65 PSI max). This pump has great upgrade potential for when i expand my system in the future! Just gotta get a 12v AC adapter, and wire it up(simple & cheap fix).
It is designed for multiple-fixture applications and features:

* High Flow (over 5.5 GPM )
* Variable Speed Pump Controlled by Smart Sensor (their trade mark sensor, no need for external pressure controller or a pressure release valve in my system setup, and i can use it for as little or as much mist heads that i need)
* No Pressure Switch Needed
* Silent operation at any Flow/Pressure Condition(i love the silent part)
* No Rapid Cycling
* Seamless Heat Electro-Coated Motor Shell
* 5 Chamber Design
* Large Inlet and outlet Valve Passages
* Automatic Voltage Protection
* Current Limiting at 10 Amps Max.
* Quiet performance and constant water temperature (a plus for my stealth cab)
* Self Priming(this is a plus for remote installation)
* Easy Installation
* Maximum amp draw is 10 amps
* Dimensions are : 9.25” x 5.0” x 4.72”(small footprint)
* Shut-off Pressure is: 65 PSI

It has better specs than the one you are currently using, and is like 100 bucks cheaper!
Good Find Pod Racer! Thanks for your energy, it will be returned in full!

 

[Guest]

One thing always tugged at my mind when comparing the method with higher pressure pumps, with aero/nft designs. They do the same thing, they coat the roots with water. once the roots are wet, it doesnt matter what size of a particle of liquid is hitting it, it is allready coated anyway. the pump I assume is not breaking down the nutrient any further for the plant to take up, because that happens on a much smaller scale I thought. Just looking for your thoughts on that, Pod Racer. This is a great tutorial btw.

 

[Pod Racer]

I think I might get one of those myself. And because I'm always thinking about you my friend *I don't want to post this reseller's name but you can find it on Ebay. :wink:

 

[whereisbrianV.]

sbaegis- to try to answer your question I have to assume you mint aero/nft ala aeroflo or low pressure delivery. In most low pressure delivery systems the pump ether runs all the time or most of the time constantly spraying >80 micron droplets at the roots. This suffers from what you described and what I call "the wet mop syndrome". If you spray a mop with hose until it is wet does any water after that point get absorbed? Not much right, but if you spray a mop with a fine mist and cycle the sprays with time enough in-between to let it drip dry abit you will find that you absorb allot more water than you do by spraying full blast all the time. That is as in laymen terms as it gets but still doesn't get to the importance of droplet size. As the "mop" example showed the cycles allow more absorption by the roots, but what the "mop" example didn't take into account is how the roots absorb water and more important nutrients. But I will save that one for PR to cover for you or maybe just go and read this:

Ideal rooting environments should be unrestricted with enough volume to allow every square cm of root zone to become completely coated with a micro-fine mist of 50µ average population nutrient solution every 3 to 4 minutes in under 60 seconds (preferably 20-30 second misting cycles).

Root Zone Temperatures are found to be ideally suited at approximately 68-72F for maximum efficiency, though younger plants grow faster at higher temperatures and older ones at lower—these extremes are not conducive to the microculture necessary to support the root colonies and risk of possible bad bacterial infections. The use of HG or any AM inoculant is advised and recommended.
Ideal root temperature has been established at 68F as being TAT. (Target Aero Temperature)
Root zone temperatures should see very little temperature fluctuation and absolutely no light penetration if possible. Anything above 75F should be considered dangerous to the health and well being of your plants and HydroGuard or other benefical is highly recommended. Beneficials are recommended in general as the speed and growth in a TAE is exceptional and the rooting environment needs as much support as possible to keep up with increasing growth demands.

A basic understanding of certain principles are necessary for all TAGers. These concern uptake of nutrition and supplimentation as the rapidly accelerated growth available in TAGing requires accurate and relatively precise balances of major life processes.

Here are some that will help the beginning TAGer understand the importance and value of precision delivery.

The basic principles
of aeroponic delivery are the rapid exchange of gases between the membranes of the root subculture and the plant roots. Application of a micro-fine nutrient film that is readily absorbed and evaporated before the next aerosol cycle is the goal.

The need for 50µ-target size for micro droplets is based on the findings by researchers that the average tube opening on the root hairs is approximate 20-50µ or within a range from 5-100µ.

The specific reason for this importance is as follows:

Aero isn't about DO. There really isn't that much in True aero, as I've mentioned. It has to do with uniformity of droplet size.
The mist that is created by these nozzles is micro fine and all the drops are pretty much the same size and an ideal size for optimum uptake.
You have a hundred different size balls that you are trying to get through a screen with holes that only fit things the size of a ping pong ball or smaller. Your standard mister is going to have like a 50/50 mix of sizes and the bigger ones have to hang out until something comes along to break it into several smaller balls kind of like the game 'asteroids' if you remember it.
True aero is a spray of balls that are all the size of ping pong balls or smaller, so everything goes right through the screen without having to wait to be broken up into smaller pieces.
That is what is happening on a microscopic level at your root level. The need for O2 is that it breaks down those H20 molecules and helps tear apart CO2 the O's are all what they call 'Free Radical' Meaning they bond with anything immediately. It is called Oxidation. That is why your blood is red, oxidized iron in your blood. It is how hemoglobin is created. All cells respire gases...it is smaller than water vapor or even the molecules themselves. O2 is a gas, CO2 is a gas, Nitrogen is a gas, Hydrogen is a gas these are all gases that when combined together to make a 'big ball' make water H20 or CO2 or any of the elements you are feeding your plant.

Thanks PR

 

[Pure MoFo]

WOW, Really glad you are back Pod Racer !!! Used to read all your old posts, great INFO.
thanks for coming back and sharing your wealth of knowledge.

-Pure

 

[Pod Racer]

Thanks for the support PMF, with all the trick kids on this thread now it feels like old school as a bro of mine said recently. It reminds me back in the day when we were all just blazin' a new trail and no one was sure where it would lead. I am overwhelmed by how many growers, TAG growers, have come out to say hello and they have been keeping the faith all this time. It brings a tear to my eye, seriously, look.
Faith is the strongest thing on Earth, finding it is sometimes hard, having it is worth all the gold in Fort Knox. I'm proud to be amongst such exceptional people, as I told my buddy I think this is going to be another amazing event like before, and this time, we have press!
My Skunk is kickin' ass she is growing like she is on fire. I love it.

Question: Has anyone had this experience? I have on like 3 different occasions rescued clones of different strains that turned out to be SuperPheno! If you know what I mean. I had one, somewhat notorious White Widow we called Clone 8 that grew twice as fast, twice as thick and rooted in 3 days (you have also seen her roots - that's the huge pom pom bush). My question is if others have found this reaction to survival clones? Each one of these clones I'm speaking of were left for dead, pretty much like the lot you saw, Clone 8 sat twice through no aero for a day and turned to dried nothing only to spring back and survive. Afterwards every cut off her was like superhuman or superpheno. I was thinking maybe there is a triggered DNA event possibly that might cause a rooting clone to boost Auxin or some other growth hormone and never stop. As each clone had similar experiences at the same time in the same sort of distress. However one was WWidow, Black Russian, Skunk 1#. Just a thought, if anyone had any experience or superclones. I might have just lucked out, but a long time ago we started a thread on Controlled Stressing as this was found to stimulate growth hormones and speed flowering. Using biological signals to basically scare the plant into an emergency state without going Hermie. But the thread was lost when OG went down. Long live the righteousness.

Soon a tutorial on Aerocloning made so simple you'll pee your pants.

 

[Guest]

WhereisbrianV i wasnt thinkin of systems with the pump on most of the time, i was thinking 20% of the time. Is there still a difference? why exactly does the mist have to be a certain micron width?

 

[Pod Racer]

Sbaegis - Your answer can be fully explained here:The answer you seek :wink:

 

[Guest]

didnt find it, cmon its not that complicated of a question....nevermind...if u dont want to answer for whatever reason thats cool.

 

[Pod Racer]

sbaegis - It has to be there, you just aren't looking hard enough or you don't see it. I'm not going to repeat myself over a topic that has already been beaten to death before.

Like stated in the begining of this thread, TAG is not emerging - It has been demonstrated time and again on this sight. There is like a 50 page thread full of arguements and re-debates, I'm not taking any bait here. If you want those answers you'll have to dig through the dirt to find it yourself - otherwise it just looks like you are trolling. Try re-reading TAG 101 again, it is there many times over.

 

[payn4school]

word

 

[Guest]

i didnt know it has come up, sorry to seem trollish, although i dont think i was at all, all i am doing is asking a question that challenges your idea. so what? Ill read that over. thanks man. I just thought since you know about it, youd be able to tell me.

 

[whereisbrianV.]

The need for 50µ-target size for micro droplets is based on the findings by researchers that the average tube opening on the root hairs is approximate 20-50µ or within a range from 5-100µ.

sbaegis- instead of fielding a bunch of general questions with no real details that can be twisted and misdirected into a million different questions lets get a DETAILED DIRECT QUESTION from you. Then we can ease any uncertainty in your mind about the process or the logic behind it. I think it would be good for others who have questions but don't want to put the time aside to ask them. The only reason you seem trollish to me is that it took me about 3 seconds to find the answer to your question but you seem to miss it both times it has been posted for you. I have no problem answering any questions that you or anyone else has just as long as the attentions are of a true nature. But you can pretty much be sure that the answer you seek would have been covered in PR's super primer.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for being patient w/ me, i really do just want to understand. I'll go back to reading more slowly

I dont want to clutter up Pod Racers primer with any more stuff. i dont need to understand that bad. If you feel like explaining any more to me, maybe it would be better in PM. But I can just leave it alone if it's a dead horse thing.

 

[bdlt]

So I've been designing my TAG system for a while and this is what I have worked out. I have a few questions regarding feeding schedules and such that I have been unable to answer by reading the threads. I want to run a "run to waste" TAG system. What nutrient system would be optimal for a system like this? What TDS levels would be optimum for this sort of system given that I don't want to spend a fortune on nutrients. My reasoning for a run to waste is that it is impossible to determine at exactly what point a plant may require more of one nutrient. By running to waste and keeping the solution NKP levels constant I do not have to worry about nute deficiencies due to increased plant uptake.

This is a diagram of my reservoir system.



I have an intellidose so i can program a customizable 10 week feeding schedule. Reservoir system is actually complete, I am still working on my POD.

This is the general Idea of what my POD priming system looks like.



My accumulator tank only has one inlet / outlet. I put the check valve between the tank and the pump to take back pressure off of the pump. I also made sure that the solenoid valve i purchased was rated to withstand inlet pressure of at least 115psi. I have lots more questions, I hope you guys can help me refine my system and develop a kickass feeding schedule for my system.

~bdlt

 

[Pod Racer]

Ah Bitch, I'm jealous. An IntelliSNAP! You whore! I want one. Damn.

Looks trick my friend, seriously. I'm going to get off my ass here in a sec and put this thread together with my build out. I'm just dragging ass as it has been so beautiful today all I want to do is play outside in my gardens. Tonight I'll return for some more FYI on all the crap needed.

Meanwhile, bdlt I'd do run to waste at like ...shit, 150-200 ppms at first. You'll be feeding every 4 minutes for about 20 seconds or maybe 40 if you want to make sure you get good coverage. They will require very little believe it or not. It is akin in my mind to foliar feeding the roots. You don't need a lot to go a long way. Especially run to waste.

You could, and only a thought here, run your waste to a return and use your intella-I'm so freakin' jealous I can't tell you-dose to run just your nutrient levels, PH up and PH down and a float valve for R/O. You'd use way less everything and that trick rig would still sing.

But just a thought as I'm not familiar with Run to Waste, so my knowledge is limited on that method, however I would believe given the miniscule amount of nutrients needed for standard TAG I'm sure R2W would take even less. We top out at 800 really, when not going crazy with protein shakes and steroid injections.

It is getting mighty hot here so I'm thinking I'm going to be swapping to days as nights and nights as days on the bloom rooms. It is mercifully warm up there and I'm sure it is only going to get warmer. Cya in a jiffynot!