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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
GreenDream
Member
Eagle 20 is highly debated. Obviously it's a PM cure, but it has many negative side effects. Among those already listed as health problems, it also kills your mycorrhizae in the soil and will completely halt a plant in bloom.
However, I have a solution for people facing recurring PM. I live in an extremely humid area, and so I have a lot of experience in the matter.
Here's what you do... after your harvest, clean room completely. Then, suit up in a full chem suit with respirator and spray the walls, floors, and ceiling with Eagle 20 at a decent dose. Now, go to your starting room and clean the plants off with an organic mildew cure, so they are "clean" when you move them into the new room. Last step is to move them into the new room when the fumes are still present. Do this with all your rooms and I guarantee that you will beat the PM, even with the most difficult strains and climates. The fumes are just enough to barely penetrate the outer cell wall and kill the PM "root" in the tissue, but not enough to go systemic and kill the mycorrhizae in the soil, or stay in the plant through to harvest. Also, it is my experience that most PM recurrences happen because spores are still hanging out in the cracks of the room, so spraying the room with a high concentration mitigates that aspect as well.
Spray the room, not the plant!! After one round of this, it will be at least 6 months to more likely a year until you have to treat again, even with the most pervasive strains. There will be zero residual in the plant, and the problem will be GONE.
However, I have a solution for people facing recurring PM. I live in an extremely humid area, and so I have a lot of experience in the matter.
Here's what you do... after your harvest, clean room completely. Then, suit up in a full chem suit with respirator and spray the walls, floors, and ceiling with Eagle 20 at a decent dose. Now, go to your starting room and clean the plants off with an organic mildew cure, so they are "clean" when you move them into the new room. Last step is to move them into the new room when the fumes are still present. Do this with all your rooms and I guarantee that you will beat the PM, even with the most difficult strains and climates. The fumes are just enough to barely penetrate the outer cell wall and kill the PM "root" in the tissue, but not enough to go systemic and kill the mycorrhizae in the soil, or stay in the plant through to harvest. Also, it is my experience that most PM recurrences happen because spores are still hanging out in the cracks of the room, so spraying the room with a high concentration mitigates that aspect as well.
Spray the room, not the plant!! After one round of this, it will be at least 6 months to more likely a year until you have to treat again, even with the most pervasive strains. There will be zero residual in the plant, and the problem will be GONE.
Considering almost every organic mix and all conventional feeds exceed the phosphorus levels that shut down root inoculation, I doubt that's much of a concern.
For frame of reference, coots patented mix has two to three times the level of phosphorus determined to stop inoculation.
It does work well enough as a starting point for organic soil though and is fool proof (this fool at least).
I've still yet to see anyone quantify inoculation, but there are many who think root hairs are AMF.
Thanks for adding your opinion.
Adults are having a rational discussion, back to the kiddie table little'un.
For frame of reference, coots patented mix has two to three times the level of phosphorus determined to stop inoculation.
It does work well enough as a starting point for organic soil though and is fool proof (this fool at least).
I've still yet to see anyone quantify inoculation, but there are many who think root hairs are AMF.
Thanks for adding your opinion.
Adults are having a rational discussion, back to the kiddie table little'un.
People linking articles gets my dick hard.
Well, no, but you get the point. Was that a pun?
frostqueen
Active member
wut
Please post a link to those comments? Thanks. Apparently we are on different pages. Or is this just more drama?
frostqueen
Active member
It's interesting to know and work with dozens of lifelong professional growers, licensed ones who actually consult university botanists to solve their problems; guys who "learned to actually grow" a dozen fucking years ago - and then come here and get 'schooled' by internet bro-science experts such as yourself. Yes, everyone just needs to learn to grow and powdery will disappear forever! That must be it.
Agree, totally!
frostqueen
Active member
How is it that (10 weeks after spraying in veg) people are coming back with only trace amounts of this chemical in their lab tests if the 'half-life is 66 days'? That doesn't add up.
This is the reason that I'm suggesting that some people actually step up and get more tests done so we actually have some real data to look at.
frostqueen
Active member
Anyway. I'll be back to post some lab numbers in a couple months. I hit a few plants with Eagle20 ten days before flower as a test. Those'll run 9 weeks, then I will process and get flowers in for analysis. I'll be smoking those by myself, so I won't be 'poisoning' anyone else. Meanwhile at least we will get a ballpark level regarding actual ppms of myclobutanyl after 10 weeks.
Those of you who choose zero tolerance, I can totally respect that position. Obviously any organic farmer can't use this shit. And prevention via healthy plants, low humidity and a clean room is the best solution to avoiding powdery. But in extreme-pressure situations, esp with the 'super-powdery' we're seeing in the PNW, I'd like to be sure this isn't a viable option before discarding it as one.
Since labs have been accused of fudging numbers and giving blanket passes, I'm going to get recommendations first and find one that actually gives specific numbers and has the best reputation.
Those of you who choose zero tolerance, I can totally respect that position. Obviously any organic farmer can't use this shit. And prevention via healthy plants, low humidity and a clean room is the best solution to avoiding powdery. But in extreme-pressure situations, esp with the 'super-powdery' we're seeing in the PNW, I'd like to be sure this isn't a viable option before discarding it as one.
Since labs have been accused of fudging numbers and giving blanket passes, I'm going to get recommendations first and find one that actually gives specific numbers and has the best reputation.
Good idea to do an actual test, I will do the same...
For the first time in a year or so, a few days ago I had to spray some clones that I got recently....
They will be flowered in 10-14 days...
I will then send in several samples to get an average reading of ANY myclobutanyl that may be present....
Ill post any and all information that I get for the test....
Instead of bashing people or trying to make them look like shit, lets get down to the nitty gritty of the truth...
Im well aware of many legal operations doing recalls of their product do to Myclobutanyl residuals. I have personal knowledge of several places using Eagle20 a week or two into flowering when budset starts, they are using it wrong...
Good idea to do an actual test, I will do the same...
For the first time in a year or so, a few days ago I had to spray some clones that I got recently....
They will be flowered in 10-14 days...
I will then send in several samples to get an average reading of ANY myclobutanyl that may be present....
Ill post any and all information that I get for the test....
Instead of bashing people or trying to make them look like shit, lets get down to the nitty gritty of the truth...
Im well aware of many legal operations doing recalls of their product do to Myclobutanyl residuals. I have personal knowledge of several places using Eagle20 a week or two into flowering when budset starts, they are using it wrong...
Going to be chopping these down her in the next few days...
Cant wait to see the results!
hell yeah krunch, I'll be waiting. what lab are you having it tested at?
Was going with Steep hill, but they said their pesticide machine is down...
So not sure just yet...
Anyone used Prokure V and Prokure D? The V is a liquid application for hard surfaces and the D is a gas that gets into any cracks and crevices to kill the molds that may be present. It breaks down into a salt that leaves no detectable tract of chemical on the plant. The gas does not harm the plant either. I know of 1 grower that used it during the 5th week of bloom. Killed off the pm and tested clean.
Hi Krunch and everyone else. I'm a fairly new grower (on my third grow at the moment), and am having my first run in with PM. I was able to control it quite well throughout veg with Greencure, but it has been more potent during flowering. I'm spraying up to twice a week and keep finding it creeping into buds. I've increased air flow, decreased humidity and tried to raise temperatures but nothing is helping. I am considering using eagle 20, but I have a few questions. I am sorry if this has been covered. I tried to read this whole thread, but I'm sure I missed parts. These all relate to my personal indoor medical grow located in our spare bedroom. I will be the only one consuming these Meds, so please don't accuse me of wanting to poison people.
Here are my questions:
I am weary of spraying inside our house. I would prefer to do a dip of my small clones (6-10") in a bucket. Would it still require a respirator and full protective gear if I am not spraying anything? I would at least wear gloves and a simple face mask. But, is this stuff so toxic that just by cracking the bottle open I need to wear a respirator?
Second, would simply doing one dip on a clone that I intend to turn into a mother be adequate or will the PM come back after 30 or 60 days or whatever? I will try to avoid flowering any plants that were dipped even as clones, but I see many of you will spray right before flowering. I really don't want to spray this stuff in my house at all.
Lastly, what do I do with this stuff when I'm done dipping? It doesn't seem kosher to just dump it down a drain or outside. Is there a procedure for this? What do I do with the bottle if I end up never needing it again or simply decide to get rid of it? Hazardous waste disposal?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, this PM is driving me crazy. I'm going to continue to treat with Greencure until harvest and then maybe do a peroxide wash, but I am not willing to continue spraying every three days during flowering for future crops. It's very time consuming and doesn't seem to be helping that much. I will stop growing before I go through all this again.
Here are my questions:
I am weary of spraying inside our house. I would prefer to do a dip of my small clones (6-10") in a bucket. Would it still require a respirator and full protective gear if I am not spraying anything? I would at least wear gloves and a simple face mask. But, is this stuff so toxic that just by cracking the bottle open I need to wear a respirator?
Second, would simply doing one dip on a clone that I intend to turn into a mother be adequate or will the PM come back after 30 or 60 days or whatever? I will try to avoid flowering any plants that were dipped even as clones, but I see many of you will spray right before flowering. I really don't want to spray this stuff in my house at all.
Lastly, what do I do with this stuff when I'm done dipping? It doesn't seem kosher to just dump it down a drain or outside. Is there a procedure for this? What do I do with the bottle if I end up never needing it again or simply decide to get rid of it? Hazardous waste disposal?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, this PM is driving me crazy. I'm going to continue to treat with Greencure until harvest and then maybe do a peroxide wash, but I am not willing to continue spraying every three days during flowering for future crops. It's very time consuming and doesn't seem to be helping that much. I will stop growing before I go through all this again.
BubbaBear
Member
Interesting tech rr, it's sold as a disinfectant/deoderizer, do you know if it killed the smell on your buddies plants? I bet using it at week 5 would give them a chance for it to come back but it sounds like it would at least temporarily kill all the terpines. Also it sounds like it would kill all the surface PM on your plants but I don't see how it could kill the internal hyphae PM. It's definitely the best product I've heard for killing all the PM spores in your grow room though, thanks for sharing.
BubbaBear
Member
Also people should know Eagle 20 is definitely not a cure all. Its a strong fungicide and has a shorter half life than most chemical fungicides, but PM can build resistance to any chemical fungicide. The clone shops in Cali over use it and I had PM pop up on clones a week after treating them with Eagle 20. Banner Maxx is another powerful chemical fungicide with a similar half life as Eagle 20 and should be used in rotation with Eagle 20 to prevent resistance. Use chemical fungicide in veg only tho people. In flower alternate cleaner chemical free solutions like Green Cure,Regalia,Actinovate, milk, hydrogen peroxide and my favorite late flower treatment that also kills bugs and oxidizies pesticide and fungicide residues....ozonated water.
BubbaBear;7424020 do you know if it killed the smell on your buddies plants? I bet using it at week 5 would give them a chance for it to come back but it sounds like it would at least temporarily kill all the terpines. [/quote said:
