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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
One spray in veg is better then having your buds smell like rotten milk!!

Obviously, you've never tried it. I have though, so I will debunk your unfortunate post. You use skim milk, diluted 9-1 with water. There is no fat in skim milk, and so there is NO rancid odors at all. You do not spray it on buds. It is used as a foliar in veg. If used weekly as a foliar spray in veg, you will NEVER get powdery mildew.
Aside from that, it provides nutrients to the plants. I don't understand how you can be opinionated about something you have never tried. I would not post it if I hadn't tried it first, nor would I post it if the world's scientists didn't back me up, but, amazingly they do.
I will post the same link that I posted earlier, since it may have been overlooked with all the drama and infighting. Try this as a foliar feed one time, and tell me it doesn't work. You can't, because it does. I would rather use non-chemical, non-toxic means to an end, than to spray toxins on my plants. Presumably you would not spray Eagle 20 on your buds either, but given the choice, I will go with milk.
Here's the link with the science:

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/Milk-for-P...dew_vq2888.htm
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Obviously, you've never tried it. I have though, so I will debunk your unfortunate post. You use skim milk, diluted 9-1 with water. There is no fat in skim milk, and so there is NO rancid odors at all. You do not spray it on buds. It is used as a foliar in veg. If used weekly as a foliar spray in veg, you will NEVER get powdery mildew.
Aside from that, it provides nutrients to the plants. I don't understand how you can be opinionated about something you have never tried. I would not post it if I hadn't tried it first, nor would I post it if the world's scientists didn't back me up, but, amazingly they do.
I will post the same link that I posted earlier, since it may have been overlooked with all the drama and infighting. Try this as a foliar feed one time, and tell me it doesn't work. You can't, because it does. I would rather use non-chemical, non-toxic means to an end, than to spray toxins on my plants. Presumably you would not spray Eagle 20 on your buds either, but given the choice, I will go with milk.
Here's the link with the science:

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/Milk-for-P...dew_vq2888.htm



Actually, when I was a manager for a hydro shop around 2001, when the PM epidemic was just happening we sold it, and alot of it...

I would drive to the ONLY place in my county in Berkeley that sold raw milk because it is actually illegal here...

It didnt work for anyone...
 
Actually, when I was a manager for a hydro shop around 2001, when the PM epidemic was just happening we sold it, and alot of it...

I would drive to the ONLY place in my county in Berkeley that sold raw milk because it is actually illegal here...

It didnt work for anyone...

LOL.


I can't believe people would trust their crops to MILK.

Seriously. Prevention is the most important part. Keeping your Rh in check will help with this the most. Keep it under 45 in flower and under 60 in veg and you should never see PM. When you do get it. Eagle20 will get rid of it quickly.
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
LOL.


I can't believe people would trust their crops to MILK.

Seriously. Prevention is the most important part. Keeping your Rh in check will help with this the most. Keep it under 45 in flower and under 60 in veg and you should never see PM. When you do get it. Eagle20 will get rid of it quickly.



Hey, we heard that it worked and it was before sulfur burners were around...

Customers would be SO pissed about the smell...
 

Crooked8

Well-known member
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It didnt work for me either :( i tried raw skim, 2% and whole milk and it came back. Its a systemic issue. Which is why e20 is so effective and full ERADICATION of the issue. I sprayed it one or two times like two years ago and i havent seen it since. I havent sprayed e20 either.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Actually, when I was a manager for a hydro shop around 2001, when the PM epidemic was just happening we sold it, and alot of it...

I would drive to the ONLY place in my county in Berkeley that sold raw milk because it is actually illegal here...

It didnt work for anyone...

Actually, skim milk is my choice, NOT raw milk. Raw milk will get rancid, although proper dilution will negate this, in all probability. Have used skim milk many times. No rancid smell at all. The mix is 90% water. Plants respond positively to it, every time I have tried it. It should be used as a preventative, as I stated. If I had a full blown problem with powdery mildew, I would go with the chems, as you suggested.
But, you will never see powdery mildew if you use preventative measures, and keep the humidity down. I'm pretty sure those agronomists who recommend it are not lying, and these include scientists from all over the world. I'm not making this stuff up. Since I prefer not to use chems on plants if possible, prevention is the alternative, and I always look for alternatives to chems when possible. Not attacking your methods at all, just bringing up an alternative that does have science behind it.
:ying:
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
"Low fat Raw Milk" will not get more rancid than "low fat pasteurized milk". Primary difference between "pasteurized milk" and "Raw Milk" is bacteria (period). When you heat the milk 161-190 degrees (pasteurization temperature) you kill all bacteria. That's it.

Studies I linked to earlier compared buffalo milk, goat milk, and cow milk--all showed fungicide capabilities against PM...and the milk used was "raw", not "pasteurized". I would use Raw Milk...more amino acids and bacteria/fungi. "Low fat" Raw Milk for foliar spray, and "regular" Raw Milk for feeding soil microherd.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Not familiar with "low fat raw milk". Just have never seen it. The key is "low fat". It's the fats that cause rancidity. I have been reading about camel's milk. This is the closest to human milk, and Camel's milk has TEN TIMES the amount of antibacterial and antiviral properties found in cow's milk. It's now available in many forms, raw, pasteurized, etc., but it's very expensive. Camel's milk has only 50% of the fat that cow's milk has, and is much healthier, but @ $16 to $19 a pint online, it is not cheap.
http://www.cameldairy.com/CAMEL_MILK.html
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
In So Cali, we have 2 diaries that produce/distribute Raw Milk. The place I go to, Mothers Market carries both (one in glass bottles...pricey, the other is in normal plastic jugs)--low fat is about $4 half gallon and about twice that for "regular" Raw Milk. Last year they were about the same price...go figure--guess its the fat that became "valuable" (probably due to the demand from cheese makers).
 

TheArchitect

Member
Veteran
Just for shits and giggles I decided to do some stoner math to figure out just how dangerous it is once applied. IOW I wanted to know what the NOEL(no observed effect level) was for acute and chronic exposure.

Here is my source https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=faeYVI6vL4fEgwTouISgBQ&url=http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/risk/rcd/myclobut.pdf&ved=0CCEQFjAB&usg=AFQjCNE_Il-_KW7XSzT3oaHDcmyF6bFspA

NOEL for acute exposure was 20mg/kg/day or 1400mg for an average 70kg male.

NOEL for chronic exposure is 2.5mg/kg/day or 175mg for an average 70kg male


If the application rate is 2mL/gal e20, which has 1.67lb/gal active ingredient or 200mg/ml then the total weight of myclo applied per gallon of solution is 400mg.


A gallon of final solution has less than a third of the NOEL rate for acute exposure, and should cover 100+ sqft or 15-30 med-lrg plants easily if you use a good spreader, and do a good pre spray pruning. That's ~15-30mg per plant that should produce .25kg. Even if you sprayed the shit right on you're freshly harvested and trimmed flowers your talking about a 120ppm maximum.

I'd say used at these rates its pretty benign, even right before flower. By the time the new foliage grows and flowers form and the product degrades away you're looking at having nearly no detectable or at least sub-ppm into the ppb amounts on the flowers or trim.
 

zeet

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the tips Krunch....this thread just saved my ass! Eagle 20 FTW!!

Edit: almost three weeks later and no PM to be found in either room (veg & 6k bloom) What a relief this has been.
 
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Hundred Gram Oz

Our Work is Never Over
Veteran
Just want to say thank you to Krunch for this thread, I just got finished spraying my entire garden with Eagle20 after getting an infection about a month ago, the plants still have 3 weeks of veg so I got it just in time. I give them a real good soaking, should I give them another spray before I put them into flower? I'm worried that the spores will still be in the room, do you guys think my plants should be okay now?

Thanks guys,
HGO
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just want to say thank you to Krunch for this thread, I just got finished spraying my entire garden with Eagle20 after getting an infection about a month ago, the plants still have 3 weeks of veg so I got it just in time. I give them a real good soaking, should I give them another spray before I put them into flower? I'm worried that the spores will still be in the room, do you guys think my plants should be okay now?

Thanks guys,
HGO

ime one treatment of eagle20 works especially if you soaked them down good.

even clones of clones of clones of plants treated one time dont ever get PM for me....
 

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
About how long after the first application of EGle 20 should I start to see results? Just one mom in my room being a bitch about the PM. Has been isolated and soaked last night @ 2/ml per gallon, still a little PM on the lower leaves today.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
I am going to buy a bottle in about 1 hour. Is there a problem using it right before putting into flower (still in veg gonna flip in a day or so after spray)? Also, will they (the ones in veg that I'm gonna spray and put into flower room this week) hold up if some of my plants that are finishing up in the flower room continue to have flare ups? I have been using serenade mostly for flower with good suppression but as you know, it always returns.

Thanks!!!
 
To those of you that are getting PM, are you adding silicon to your grow? Not sure if you normally add silicon to soil grows, as I do DWC, and I add it and have never had PM.

Another chemical treatment involves treating with a silicon solution or calcium silicate slag. Silicon helps the plant cells defend against fungal attack by degrading haustoria and by producing callose and papilla. With silicon treatment, epidermal cells are less susceptible to powdery mildew of wheat.

Source: http://www.siliforce.com/pdf/7c/Belanger- evedence silicon powdery mildew on wheat.pdf
 

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