This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

[Mountain]

Heat is required to make the sulfer fume... usually at 90 degress or slightly more, which will kill mildew.

But honestly, if you used Eagle, or any other decent fungicide and you still had problems then you never got to the source of the underlying problem.

And you always dip clones brought from the outside in a fungicide before introducing them to your grow room. that's just common sense.

Well with the burner thing I was thinking more along the lines of getting the room to 100+...without any plants. Does a burner raise the entire room to 90+ or just in the burner itself? I never used one.

My point on the second part was it was not a cure for me. As I said I have some ideas as to why the reinfection but that grow ended up getting killed and gave all my equipment to a friend.

Far as I know those clones I got were treated with Eagle 20 before they were handed to me. It's been a few years so fuzzy on the details. My impression was they were PM 'clean'. I started looking at things like Eagle 20 after seeing what Krunch was doing and also a thread Chimera had growing. Prior to that I never even considered treatments with heavy duty fungicides and in retrospect the treatments I was using are pretty much useless. Serenade worked OK...for awhile and toward the end of a plants life seemed to do almost nothing but think part of that is just dealing with the dynamics of the end stage of a plant's life cycle.

 

[Montana]

PM is not just a topical problem, it lives inside the plant after it has established.

I can totally dig where you guys are coming from, but I think the stuff is too toxic, I smoked some eagle 20 weed, fucking gross nasty shit that burned my throat and lungs......

 

[Mountain]

I smoked some eagle 20 weed, fucking gross nasty shit that burned my throat and lungs......

You sure that just wasn't some poorly grown hydro weed?

One thing about Eagle 20, from what I understand, is it will kill PM in the plant which I'm pretty sure Chimera said could become systemic and would agree. By that I mean PM grows inside plant tissue and what you see as powdery spots is nothing more than the fruiting body like what a mushroom is to mycelium. The condida of PM dig into plant tissue, root then flower. I'm pretty much convinced that Eagle 20 will 'cure' a plant of PM but that's not a guarantee it will not come back.

A few things I've thought about that were a problem for me with what I dealt with were inadequate tissue calcium levels and genetic susceptibility (phenotype variation) for starters. Calcium blocks/counteracts the pectolytic enzymes produced by PM. PM 'roots' live between cells dissolving the pectin structure. Adequate calcium levels should, in theory, take care of that.

 

[Mountain]

As an after thought...and may be off base...is supporting a plant's ability to produce adequate/healthy levels of pectin. While Mg is probably not an issue with canna growers I'd lean more towards inadequate S, B, Co and Mo...possibly. I'm just throwing darts with this stuff though in regards to what I experienced.

 

[Montana]

yea it's possible that it was just badly grown weed, and yes I have experienced strains that are resistant, but personally I will never use the stuff.....

inadequate S, B, Co and Mo.....yea I do beleive this plays a large role when dealing with PM......among other things......

I still prefer the natural cures.......but hey...that's just me....

 

[Guest3498]

I understand people coming from the organic angle, but the fact remains that you're going to keep using those natural cures for as long as you continue to grow the cuts in your garden. I used eagle once on my veg last year, and pm is gone. The eagle is also long gone from anything I'm growing...

If anything, quality has improved. No more PM!

 

[grapeman]

Well with the burner thing I was thinking more along the lines of getting the room to 100+...without any plants. Does a burner raise the entire room to 90+ or just in the burner itself? I never used one.

My point on the second part was it was not a cure for me. As I said I have some ideas as to why the reinfection but that grow ended up getting killed and gave all my equipment to a friend.

Far as I know those clones I got were treated with Eagle 20 before they were handed to me. It's been a few years so fuzzy on the details. My impression was they were PM 'clean'. I started looking at things like Eagle 20 after seeing what Krunch was doing and also a thread Chimera had growing. Prior to that I never even considered treatments with heavy duty fungicides and in retrospect the treatments I was using are pretty much useless. Serenade worked OK...for awhile and toward the end of a plants life seemed to do almost nothing but think part of that is just dealing with the dynamics of the end stage of a plant's life cycle.

Follow this thread. Better information here. Chimera has a very diminished knowledge of PM and the beginning of his thread starts out with bullshit information.

100 degrees with some sulfur fumes will have an adverse effect on mildew.

But imo, it still comes down to using a good fungicide product if you are experiencing continued re-infection. Like Eagle or others I mentioned above.

 

[jump /injack]

If you use Eagle 20 at the start of flower only will it degrade sufficiently so that you could us the shake for hash. I've looked at the instructions and there is nothing there to give you any indication. Will ISO degrade Eagle 20?

 

[Herborizer]

If you use Eagle 20 at the start of flower only will it degrade sufficiently so that you could us the shake for hash. I've looked at the instructions and there is nothing there to give you any indication. Will ISO degrade Eagle 20?

Don't use eagle20 in flower

 

[jump /injack]

Let me rephrase this a bit, forget about using it during flowering. Has anyone used the shake/leaves/trim from plants which has been treated with Eagle 20 or have you seen something in the directions that would preclude this. Does Eagle 20 degrade so that you could make ISO and not be harmed. Crunch, you still around?

 

[stoney917]

what do ya mean? make iso with garbage???? clippings taken off before the plant finishes????.... i wouldnt do it with nething sprayed on it with 2 months.. if the plant finishes norm u can make whatever u want with the trim i make bubble and budder and its great.... never tried to make iso seems like it would be a nightmare shakiin lbs of trim... one day boredome will get to me and ill toss some bud in a jar and try it.

 

[stoney917]

eagle 20 is out of the plant 6wks after treating the plant if that answers ur ? sorry i left that out before it was the important part of my post.... good luck peace

 

[Fear]

I just got my $78 pint Eagle20 and now I have the mold protection I needed and a $370 Pint of avid for the insects. Bring it on Bitches. BYE pesky pests

 

[headband 707]

My plants are in flowering on a 12/12 schedule. The problem is a light dusting of whitish-grey mold. I have a very good exhaust system. Will this affect the THC? Is it harmful to human consumption? How can I stop it?
Shellie, Bobbins and Battie,
White City, Oregon

It sounds as if your plants have been attacked by powdery mildew. This is a mildew closely related to fungus. The powder is the mildew's reproductive spores. It thrives in an acid environment in a temperature range of 60-70?F (15-21?C) with a humidity above 50%. The spores are floating in the air and there is no practical way to screen them out. Instead, try to change the environment so that conditions don't match the mildew's needs. This may require raising the temperature or lowering humidity.

There are also several safe and effective ways of controlling powdery mildew using minerals or organisms.

Most of the mildicides listed here are fairly new and they are all much less harmful than the old chemical formulations. You won't find most of them at your local store or garden shop, but they are available on the Internet. Many companies sell them there. All of these mildicides are used on edibles or herbs. Some are naturally occurring organisms and are exempt from registration. Others are registered for use on vegetable crops and are considered in the "caution" category, the category for the least dangerous registered mildicides.

AQ10: AQ10 uses a totally new method of fighting powdery mildew, a biofungicide. The active ingredient, Ampelomyces quisqualis, is a fungus that parasitizes the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time.

AdvertisementCinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to marijuana plants.

Copper: Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium. Copper has been used for over 100 years, and is effective. A few brands of copper based fungicides are Phyton 27, Dexol Copper Bordeaux Mix and Kocide DF. There are many other brands available.

Neem Oil: Neem oil is pressed from the nut of the Indian Neem Tree. It protects against and kills mildew by interfering with respiration and collapsing the cell wall. Some growers claim that plants grow more vigorously when sprayed with dilute neem oil twice a month. There are many brands of neem oil available. Many of them are listed as organic.

Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects.

Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe, very effective contact fungicide. Mildew do not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.

Serenade: Is the fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is very effective and easy to spray on or to use as a dip. It is a contact fungicide that kills only areas that it contacts. A wetting agent or spreader increases total contact.

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves. The sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall and the alkaline environment discourages growth. Plants have a limited tolerance to sodium, so the residue should be washed off before more is applied. Used at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water with a wetting agent.

Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.

These new remedies make it much easier to deal with powdery mildew. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.

 

[krunchbubble]

My plants are in flowering on a 12/12 schedule. The problem is a light dusting of whitish-grey mold. I have a very good exhaust system. Will this affect the THC? Is it harmful to human consumption? How can I stop it?
Shellie, Bobbins and Battie,
White City, Oregon

It sounds as if your plants have been attacked by powdery mildew. This is a mildew closely related to fungus. The powder is the mildew's reproductive spores. It thrives in an acid environment in a temperature range of 60-70?F (15-21?C) with a humidity above 50%. The spores are floating in the air and there is no practical way to screen them out. Instead, try to change the environment so that conditions don't match the mildew's needs. This may require raising the temperature or lowering humidity.

There are also several safe and effective ways of controlling powdery mildew using minerals or organisms.

Most of the mildicides listed here are fairly new and they are all much less harmful than the old chemical formulations. You won't find most of them at your local store or garden shop, but they are available on the Internet. Many companies sell them there. All of these mildicides are used on edibles or herbs. Some are naturally occurring organisms and are exempt from registration. Others are registered for use on vegetable crops and are considered in the "caution" category, the category for the least dangerous registered mildicides.

AQ10: AQ10 uses a totally new method of fighting powdery mildew, a biofungicide. The active ingredient, Ampelomyces quisqualis, is a fungus that parasitizes the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time.

AdvertisementCinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to marijuana plants.

Copper: Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium. Copper has been used for over 100 years, and is effective. A few brands of copper based fungicides are Phyton 27, Dexol Copper Bordeaux Mix and Kocide DF. There are many other brands available.

Neem Oil: Neem oil is pressed from the nut of the Indian Neem Tree. It protects against and kills mildew by interfering with respiration and collapsing the cell wall. Some growers claim that plants grow more vigorously when sprayed with dilute neem oil twice a month. There are many brands of neem oil available. Many of them are listed as organic.

Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects.

Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe, very effective contact fungicide. Mildew do not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.

Serenade: Is the fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is very effective and easy to spray on or to use as a dip. It is a contact fungicide that kills only areas that it contacts. A wetting agent or spreader increases total contact.

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves. The sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall and the alkaline environment discourages growth. Plants have a limited tolerance to sodium, so the residue should be washed off before more is applied. Used at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water with a wetting agent.

Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.

These new remedies make it much easier to deal with powdery mildew. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.

don't come in this thread with this monkey oil bullshit, wanna be powder mildew eradicators....

non of that crap works, NON OF IT!......

Eagle 20 for the powder mildew cure!!!

 

[headband 707]

don't come in this thread with this monkey oil bullshit, wanna be powder mildew eradicators....

non of that crap works, NON OF IT!......

Eagle 20 for the powder mildew cure!!!

LOL are you serious?? LOL well your going to have to ask Ed Rosenthal about this as he wrote it you asswipe LOL LOL now kiss my sweet ass.. As I don't have this you can act like as dickwad all you like lol...

 

[accessndx]

Krunch: Ya' know I've been superstitiously staying away from this thread because I almost couldn't believe the stupendous results I got from Eagle 20. I didn't want to "jinx" anything. But I gotta say this: It's been months and months and months and months and months.........NO POWDERY MILDEW. AT ALL. NADA....ZIP......NOTHINGNESS MAN.

I tried so many back breaking, brow sweating, costly......well known and esoteric methods for fighting PM. It all sucked....from Dutch Master to Green Cure.....Milk to Hydrogen Peroxide.....exorbitant UV lights.......dehumidifiers...........you name it.

It all sucked donkey balls.

Then you came along with this thread. I thought "Too good to be true, but I'll give it a whirl".

1 Application of Eagle made PM blind, crippled and crazy. Another, which was more than likely unnecessary kicked PM in the teeth, took it's wallet.....made a copy of it's driver's license...proceeded to inform it that it now "knows where it lives" and never to come back again. Then while PM limped away it put two bullets in it's legs and one in the back for fun. Afterwards it found PM's chick and proceeded to rape her on web-cam just for a few extra yucks.

All that in a bottle that I used possibly two capfulls of.

Turned on my brothers in arms who were having similar difficulties.......same effect.....everyone across the board: 100% eradication + 100% humiliation of PM.

So for all the folk that come up in here pushing the other stuff.....there's no comparison whatsoever....none......it's just ridiculous efficacy wrapped up in sheep's clothing.

Krunch: you rock.

 

[Fear]

Dude someone should shoot Ed a email about eagle20 maybe he will revise his books. For sure Krunch nothing else works. I tried all the bullshits too. Neem oil, sm90, magic green, dr,doright (whatever) all the bullshit. I have a underground stream at my new pad now and it's wet here wet wet wet, can't even leave kids toys outside without mold or mildew appearing on something and I never had this crap except on some Sour D which I pulled right away anyways. The cure is here just don't spray flowering buds except maybe 1st week of 12/12 if need be. Now I don't worry about no mold or mildew. You do have to wear some gear to apply it though. Gloves and respirator recommended.

 

[kstampy]

LOL are you serious?? LOL well your going to have to ask Ed Rosenthal about this as he wrote it you asswipe LOL LOL now kiss my sweet ass.. As I don't have this you can act like as dickwad all you like lol...

We have literally talked about all those band-aids through this thread already, even more than once. Did you read the whole thread? Most of us have tried at least half of those solutions that took you 10 seconds to copy paste. You didn't even add anything useful from your knowledge or experience. I am starting to guess you don't have much, you just sit around these forums and try to be a jerk-off, you seem to have a real knack for bein an ass around here. My 2c from reading what you say, I mean you actually had the audacity to smack talk samtheskunkman like you knew more than him lol. Now that's ignorant. Taunting him "Where's the RKS!? Where is it?!?" While all he did was provided and discussed scientific studies that proved you wrong, all which you probably didn't even read. You've come in to more than 1 thread now with little to no actual knowledge except for what you can copy paste and google so this is quite the hypocritical statement as usual from you. If you don't agree then say your piece and leave it alone. You really are not helping around here with that sort of attitude and little to no knowledge. Ed Rosenthal doesn't do everything right either. Imagine if he told people to use harsh chemicals on a global scale (the ones that work) and someone got hurt? There goes his public image. THINK DUDE, THINK! IT'S GOOD FOR YA, I PROMISE! A lil humility doesn't hurt either!


Love your sig.
You make everyone just a little more stupid for the stupid thing you have just said

 

[Lazyman]

LOL are you serious?? LOL well your going to have to ask Ed Rosenthal about this as he wrote it you asswipe LOL LOL now kiss my sweet ass.. As I don't have this you can act like as dickwad all you like lol...

Ed also listed several copper-based fungicides, which we all know shouldn't be used on weed. Ed isn't a god, he makes mistakes too. Eagle20 is the only cure (though I haven't tried AQ10, I have no need to.)

FEAR, please don't use Avid on your plants, it's strictly for ornamentals. use Floramite SC or Forbid 4F, never Avid!