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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

angel4us

Active member
ICMag Donor
hey krunch ! was wondering your thoughts on a product called green cure??? eagle 20 can only be used so far into flowereing????

here is literature from green cure FAQ
Disease Control: In cases of moderate to severe infestation GreenCure® can be used to eradicate plant disease by spraying plants completely with a mixture of up to 2 tablespoons of GreenCure® per gallon of water weekly for 3 weeks followed by the preventative program thereafter. GreenCure® kills mold / mildew spores within seconds of contact by causing an immediate dehydration of the spores and destruction of the cell walls. Many of the deceased spores will slough off or be washed away with the next rain or watering. In most instances, leaves can recover, however as with any wound, scars and discoloration can remain. If you prune infected leaves, stalks or branches, they should be disposed of in the trash, because composting will not kill the mold spores.

Application Timing: Start application at first sign of disease. For best protection, repeat at one to two week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development. Spray more often during rainy weather or during periods of high relative humidity. For appropriate crops, GreenCure® may also be applied post-harvest to remaining foliage to decrease overwintering inoculum.

GreenCure MSDS

anybody familiar with this product???????? peace
 

kstampy

Member
hey krunch ! was wondering your thoughts on a product called green cure??? eagle 20 can only be used so far into flowereing????

here is literature from green cure FAQ
Disease Control: In cases of moderate to severe infestation GreenCure® can be used to eradicate plant disease by spraying plants completely with a mixture of up to 2 tablespoons of GreenCure® per gallon of water weekly for 3 weeks followed by the preventative program thereafter. GreenCure® kills mold / mildew spores within seconds of contact by causing an immediate dehydration of the spores and destruction of the cell walls. Many of the deceased spores will slough off or be washed away with the next rain or watering. In most instances, leaves can recover, however as with any wound, scars and discoloration can remain. If you prune infected leaves, stalks or branches, they should be disposed of in the trash, because composting will not kill the mold spores.

Application Timing: Start application at first sign of disease. For best protection, repeat at one to two week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development. Spray more often during rainy weather or during periods of high relative humidity. For appropriate crops, GreenCure® may also be applied post-harvest to remaining foliage to decrease overwintering inoculum.

GreenCure MSDS

anybody familiar with this product???????? peace

Band-aid contact killer. Worth using to try to save your harvest but the PM would be back in a day or two after spraying for me, that was the first time I had PM it was late flower years ago. Watch out for PM in your jars especially if you like to jar before stems snap.
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
I've found GreenCure to work great in late flower if you use RO or
distilled water with it. GreenCure works buy raising the PH of the surface of your
leaves (much like sulfur). The Ca and Mg in Tap water buffer this and lower it.

The only problem with GC is that it will turn the white hairs orange pretty quick.
 

moondawg

Member
Hi

I grow outdoors and im in desperate need of an all purpose, safe treatment for PM, and other fungus.
Can i spray this eagle 20 on my crop without residue being in my smoke 8 weeks later when i harvest? Ive tried many things. Sulpher ruins the taste of smoke, Liquid copper and Greencure both remain on the plant even after cure. I have someone that can test and my bud contained high concentrations of LC and Greencure in the cured bud and shouldnt be smoked.. I tried the Floramite sometime back and was told after testing that a "very high and dangerous level" remained in the cured bud and that it was unsafe to smoke.


All of those product which claim to be useable on veg/ edible crops render weed unsmokeable because testing reveals they remain in the cured bud.

It takes 3/4 gallon of spray to spray a 10' plant. Do you folks think this eagle 20 will dissipate totally by harvest and not be detectable in cured bud?
 
Hi

I grow outdoors and im in desperate need of an all purpose, safe treatment for PM, and other fungus.
Can i spray this eagle 20 on my crop without residue being in my smoke 8 weeks later when i harvest? Ive tried many things. Sulpher ruins the taste of smoke, Liquid copper and Greencure both remain on the plant even after cure. I have someone that can test and my bud contained high concentrations of LC and Greencure in the cured bud and shouldnt be smoked.. I tried the Floramite sometime back and was told after testing that a "very high and dangerous level" remained in the cured bud and that it was unsafe to smoke.


All of those product which claim to be useable on veg/ edible crops render weed unsmokeable because testing reveals they remain in the cured bud.

It takes 3/4 gallon of spray to spray a 10' plant. Do you folks think this eagle 20 will dissipate totally by harvest and not be detectable in cured bud?

No, I do not. Im glad to see some honest reports of toxic herb.
 
IMO this is why it is important to use the nasty stuff responsibly. Using Eagle-20 and Floromite, and Imid, (all systemics) only in veg has shown to test clean in the final product. No one wants to use these things, but compared to smoking PM or losing crops to bugs they are the lesser of the evils.
 

KosmoKramer

Member
Personally used GC in last month or two. I find that it is a good PM control product, not a cure as stated on the label.

Used it every 2 weeks at stated strengths on the label. PM would be gone for a week then always returned. BE SURE you correct whatever environment issues you have, provide plenty of air circulation, and then get something like Eagle 20 to get rid of the shit for good.

Got mine from a combination of clogged air filters, poor lower circulation. Fixed these problems and have used GC many times, shit comes back. BUT I have noticed that since I improved circulation that when it does come back its not as bad. Just a few spots, but the shit is still there.

Eagle 20 getting ordered soon as funds allow.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
I've found GreenCure to work great in late flower if you use RO or
distilled water with it. GreenCure works buy raising the PH of the surface of your
leaves (much like sulfur). The Ca and Mg in Tap water buffer this and lower it.

The only problem with GC is that it will turn the white hairs orange pretty quick.

GreenCure = Potassium Bicarbonate which is the same thing as Armicarb, FirstStep, MilStop, Kaligreen and a slew of other commercial names. Green Cure is the grow store version @ 10x the price.

Really, really expensive sodium bicarbonate. [cite]

To say the least.

CC

EDIT: Both sodium and/or potassium bicarbonate are worthless on anything other than ornamentals. Much like Eagle 20, et al.

Without addressing the systemic process of anaerobic mildews and simply treating the manifestations on the leaves, branches, et al. is a fool's errand as all professional horticulturists learned years and years ago.

Word travels slowly in the cannabis-growing world it appears - again.
 

hazy

Active member
Veteran
GreenCure MSDS

anybody familiar with this product???????? peace

There's about a thousand threads around here about Greencure.

I use it every day. It's potassium bicarbonate. Similar to sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), but better(plants can use any K they absorb, you could do the same with baking soda, but you don't want them soaking in the sodium.). Nothing in it that will hurt you if you smoke buds with it. Better than smoking PM or nothing because you didn't fight it and lost the crop. It does not 'burn' the pistils as some here say it does. A scoop with small and large ends comes in the little container and I use one small scoop in a 24 oz spray bottle. I sometimes go a day or two without spraying, but I know I'll find pm when i check the next day. My circulation's great and temps and RH are great, but the pm never goes away.
I'll be getting some E20 as soon as funds allow, cause I just am getting sick of having to search and spray so often.

That said, however, I do highly recommend GC, just stay on top of your situation. There's absolutely no reason to lose a crop to pm, even if you don't have eagle 20.
 

calipotsnob2

New member
You do have to be careful. I prep all mine in veg with eagle 20 and avid. In my girls grow the cats brought some in and the plants had it again. The flop side is I think that is why I got a batch or two of light fluffy buds. Shit can't win. :)
Deej
 

KosmoKramer

Member
Ok CC

What's your secret? How did you rid yourself of the dreaded PM without using any of the mentioned "cure alls"?

The IC community and countless frustrated growers would love to know. Please enlighten us

Hazy. I've been using 3 of the small scoops per 32oz. Soak the shit out of the plants one at a time, and I mean soak em. Keeps the spore outbreaks at bay for more than a week. When they do return (approx week 1/2 later) I repeat using same ratio. If you need smaller amounts figure on 1 small scoop per 10oz water

:dance013:
 

BIG JT

Member
Hey CC, it doesn't have the same affect on the forum as it does in person, i was joking. But Im not joking about Eagle20EW, maybe potassium bicarbonate does work (baking soda doesn't work, but it does a great job of burning the shit out of your plants) but i've never seen the potassium in action, and collectively, only people who use the eagle have had 100% success with ridding themselves of PM. This thread has nailed the solution, not the bandaid, if potassium bicarbonate was the solution, that is what the thread would be about. But if it worked, thats all that matters, i don't want it back so i can test it lol :tiphat:
 

KosmoKramer

Member
I have a question.

After harvesting I plan on wiping down my tent and turning off my fans, leaving my 600w on to raise the temps to kill off the spores. I should be able to easily get temps to 90 deg +. They stay 10 deg over ambient with the fan running (70 deg room temp).

Question is how long should I keep the temps that high? An hour, 2 or 3, all night?

Krunch?
 
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