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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
thanks crunch you allways seem to have a ggod posting .i just turn up my fans when i flower that works for me but i have friends who have nothing but problems here on the coast aloha bro and hope all your court crap is history
PM facts:
1. when PM first appears on the leaves of plants it has been in the plants system for a week or more.
2. PM thrives in cool, damp, humid, dim grow room conditions.
3. Big temperature fluctuations combine with stale air often cause outbreaks of PM.
4. PM can only form on leaves when the leaf surface has the ideal PH (i cant find the exact # but i think its between 6 and 7)
The best and safest way to get rid of PM forever is create conditions in which it cant grow. PM needs cool, humid, and stagnant air to thrive. Buy a dehumidifier and keep you relative humidity between 35 and 45 percent. Warm up your room to 78-82 degrees as a daytime temp and 70-75 degrees as a night temp. Make sure your room has lots of circulation fans. Space out your plants and larf properly. Larfing or removing all of the shaded undergrowth helps a lot because PM almost always shows up first, and stages it attack on you plants, from shaded undergrowth. PM has trouble growing in well lit places. Polish up your reflectors, replacing old bulbs, and switching your CFLs lights to HID lights. Maximizing your lumens per watt will help you in many ways. KEEP YOUR ROOM CLEAN!!! PILES OF DEAD LEAVES, OLD GROW MEDIUM, AND OTHER GROW TRASH WILL GIVE PESTS AND FUNGUS A PLACE TO START THEIR ATTCK FROM!!!
If you can dial in these conditions and keep them dialed in you will never get PM ever again. If your strain is more prone to PM then other strains try to keep your temps on the higher end of the scale and humidity to the lower end.
I use a fogger to bleach (in a 15% solution) the walls, floors, and trays in my flowering room between every cycle. I also sweep, mop, and do a dump run. I feel like this helps keep all pest at bay.
Day temps in the 60s or low 70s and night temps 50s and 60s combined with relative humidity above 50% and crowded plants is a sure recipe for PM.
Hope this helps
1. when PM first appears on the leaves of plants it has been in the plants system for a week or more.
2. PM thrives in cool, damp, humid, dim grow room conditions.
3. Big temperature fluctuations combine with stale air often cause outbreaks of PM.
4. PM can only form on leaves when the leaf surface has the ideal PH (i cant find the exact # but i think its between 6 and 7)
The best and safest way to get rid of PM forever is create conditions in which it cant grow. PM needs cool, humid, and stagnant air to thrive. Buy a dehumidifier and keep you relative humidity between 35 and 45 percent. Warm up your room to 78-82 degrees as a daytime temp and 70-75 degrees as a night temp. Make sure your room has lots of circulation fans. Space out your plants and larf properly. Larfing or removing all of the shaded undergrowth helps a lot because PM almost always shows up first, and stages it attack on you plants, from shaded undergrowth. PM has trouble growing in well lit places. Polish up your reflectors, replacing old bulbs, and switching your CFLs lights to HID lights. Maximizing your lumens per watt will help you in many ways. KEEP YOUR ROOM CLEAN!!! PILES OF DEAD LEAVES, OLD GROW MEDIUM, AND OTHER GROW TRASH WILL GIVE PESTS AND FUNGUS A PLACE TO START THEIR ATTCK FROM!!!
If you can dial in these conditions and keep them dialed in you will never get PM ever again. If your strain is more prone to PM then other strains try to keep your temps on the higher end of the scale and humidity to the lower end.
I use a fogger to bleach (in a 15% solution) the walls, floors, and trays in my flowering room between every cycle. I also sweep, mop, and do a dump run. I feel like this helps keep all pest at bay.
Day temps in the 60s or low 70s and night temps 50s and 60s combined with relative humidity above 50% and crowded plants is a sure recipe for PM.
Hope this helps
Thanks for taking the timeto share. Though, this is NOT good advice for pm. I have all of the above and much much more following the advice of others with advice like yours. It was a Very costly, time consuming, and frustrating experience.
The only thing that killed pm for me and many others is eagle 20. One application and I never have seen it again.
Ps. I don't believe that rh has any real effect on pm. My grows are constantly in the 29-30's. Had pm very bad. Circulating fans do help, but I had at one time 4 fans in a 5x5 space and pm laughed at them.
carbonskeleton
Member
I'm really sad to say but this thread is full of misinformation. I will try to clarify some.
Well almost, powdery mildew does not live systemically in the plant (meaning it does not travel through the vascular system). Most commonly asexual spores or conidia make their way to your leaves and begin germination. They will then grow an appendage known as a haustorium which is able to penetrate the plant cell cuticle and cell walls. This relationship is purely parasitic, they enter the plant cells and the appendage splits in order to have maximum surface area (one of the defining features of fungi is the ability to absorb nutrients).
Actually powdery mildew prefers hot conditions. So everything else I would agree with but not cool.
Hot, damp, humid, low air flow are critical factors which create a suitable environment for powdery mildew to grow.
Well whenever considering diseases you must realize that there are three factors required for any disease to occur: susceptible host, suitable environment for the pathogen, and a pathogen. So when trying to plan management strategies consider if you can get genetically resistant strains or make the environment not suitable for powdery mildew or sanitize equipment and room to limit spores.
I don't know why you would go and say something like this. You don't have any evidence to prove this claim and even if you could I don't understand how this would change management strategies.
This is true.
It also seems the PM is trolling and either is hocking the product because he has financial interest in doing so or has a lot of faith because he seems to be making a lot of claims without any proof to back them up.
Many of the methods he has mentioned do not work I can easily find scientific journal articles supporting their efficacy. I have personally used H202 (Hydrogen Peroxide) in the past to deal with powdery mildew problems and it has worked fantastically. Also it is nice to know exactly how your chemical break down - in the H202 reaction I know that the products are water and 02 which are both harmless to humans and plants.
I wouldn't use eagle 20 purely on economic basis though because it is more expensive then proper management strategies.
Not to interrupt your circle jerk but hes actually not spot on. Proper management strategies could eliminate the problem without the need for eagle 20. Fans do not just help, proper ventilation and good air flow is critical but also just as critical as eliminating other suitable conditions such as heat and humidity.
Well almost, powdery mildew does not live systemically in the plant (meaning it does not travel through the vascular system). Most commonly asexual spores or conidia make their way to your leaves and begin germination. They will then grow an appendage known as a haustorium which is able to penetrate the plant cell cuticle and cell walls. This relationship is purely parasitic, they enter the plant cells and the appendage splits in order to have maximum surface area (one of the defining features of fungi is the ability to absorb nutrients).
Actually powdery mildew prefers hot conditions. So everything else I would agree with but not cool.
Hot, damp, humid, low air flow are critical factors which create a suitable environment for powdery mildew to grow.
Well whenever considering diseases you must realize that there are three factors required for any disease to occur: susceptible host, suitable environment for the pathogen, and a pathogen. So when trying to plan management strategies consider if you can get genetically resistant strains or make the environment not suitable for powdery mildew or sanitize equipment and room to limit spores.
I don't know why you would go and say something like this. You don't have any evidence to prove this claim and even if you could I don't understand how this would change management strategies.
This is true.
It also seems the PM is trolling and either is hocking the product because he has financial interest in doing so or has a lot of faith because he seems to be making a lot of claims without any proof to back them up.
Many of the methods he has mentioned do not work I can easily find scientific journal articles supporting their efficacy. I have personally used H202 (Hydrogen Peroxide) in the past to deal with powdery mildew problems and it has worked fantastically. Also it is nice to know exactly how your chemical break down - in the H202 reaction I know that the products are water and 02 which are both harmless to humans and plants.
I wouldn't use eagle 20 purely on economic basis though because it is more expensive then proper management strategies.
spot on brother...........
Not to interrupt your circle jerk but hes actually not spot on. Proper management strategies could eliminate the problem without the need for eagle 20. Fans do not just help, proper ventilation and good air flow is critical but also just as critical as eliminating other suitable conditions such as heat and humidity.
P. Dondrub
Member
Ok--- so what you're saying is that eagle has no purpose even in an infestation or even if we are dealing with genetically susceptible cultivars.
Chemical controls have no place in an integrated pest management... ?
I've read several sources that suggest that when infestation has occurred, right environment may not be enough to bring the problem under control and chemical controls are used until the problem is not as severe, then the other methods can prevent future infection.
kstampy
Member
Got my Eagle 20 sprayed the crap out of every leaf and noticed a bit of eagle clawing (lol the irony) on newer growth. Nothing to freak about I just noticed it and didn't remember seeing anyone talk about that on their sprays. Used the 2 ml/Gal with some Ivory dish soap for a spreader, had lights off for 3 hours fans on for 30m then lights on from 3' away for a while. Anyone else get the clawing? Nothing a couple of days of veg didn't whip in to shape just wondering. These plants are 4-6 weeks old.
I know for a fact that I sprayed every under and top side of every leaf in the room and I still see some white spots that when I go to rub off it is not even powdery it's just like it was melted, is this a good sign of either some of my Ivory soap dried there or the PM got killed there?
Dondrub he's right as far as HELPING to prevent PM and I don't see where he said it has no purpose in that big ol 3 sentence post of his... "Proper management strategies could eliminate the problem without the need for eagle 20".
Problem is your research is correct as well Dondrub, once you already have PM all that environment #s B.S. PLUS Serenade, Neem, baking powder, green cure etc etc you name it are really just band-aids from my own personal experience and it was noob mistakes that got me PM the first time years ago, crowded plants low air flow too high RH etc. Those are good tips IMO for keeping a PM free environment (especially after an eagle 20 spray), I just wish I didn't have to learn that the hard way lol; proper space for plants, airflow, low RH, stable more normal temps and cleanliness. All those kept me PM free for years.
Started flowering 8-9 weekers 2 days after the Eagle application despite my moderate PM infection... I sure hope this stuff pulls through KB I am relying on it!
.
So with my power going out for 3.5 hrs and my veg room being totally packed ready for the next run and no ventilation, no airflow, resulting in PM, hypothetically as long as I keep the right environment from now on I shouldn't see anymore patches the rest of the grow as long as I covered every part of every plant with eagle, right?
Thanks everyone for the tips and discussion, this is probably helping more people than we know.
I know for a fact that I sprayed every under and top side of every leaf in the room and I still see some white spots that when I go to rub off it is not even powdery it's just like it was melted, is this a good sign of either some of my Ivory soap dried there or the PM got killed there?
Dondrub he's right as far as HELPING to prevent PM and I don't see where he said it has no purpose in that big ol 3 sentence post of his... "Proper management strategies could eliminate the problem without the need for eagle 20".
Problem is your research is correct as well Dondrub, once you already have PM all that environment #s B.S. PLUS Serenade, Neem, baking powder, green cure etc etc you name it are really just band-aids from my own personal experience and it was noob mistakes that got me PM the first time years ago, crowded plants low air flow too high RH etc. Those are good tips IMO for keeping a PM free environment (especially after an eagle 20 spray), I just wish I didn't have to learn that the hard way lol; proper space for plants, airflow, low RH, stable more normal temps and cleanliness. All those kept me PM free for years.
Started flowering 8-9 weekers 2 days after the Eagle application despite my moderate PM infection... I sure hope this stuff pulls through KB I am relying on it!
. So with my power going out for 3.5 hrs and my veg room being totally packed ready for the next run and no ventilation, no airflow, resulting in PM, hypothetically as long as I keep the right environment from now on I shouldn't see anymore patches the rest of the grow as long as I covered every part of every plant with eagle, right?
Thanks everyone for the tips and discussion, this is probably helping more people than we know.
I'm really sad to say but this thread is full of misinformation. I will try to clarify some.
Well almost, powdery mildew does not live systemically in the plant (meaning it does not travel through the vascular system). Most commonly asexual spores or conidia make their way to your leaves and begin germination. They will then grow an appendage known as a haustorium which is able to penetrate the plant cell cuticle and cell walls. This relationship is purely parasitic, they enter the plant cells and the appendage splits in order to have maximum surface area (one of the defining features of fungi is the ability to absorb nutrients).
Actually powdery mildew prefers hot conditions. So everything else I would agree with but not cool.
Hot, damp, humid, low air flow are critical factors which create a suitable environment for powdery mildew to grow.
Well whenever considering diseases you must realize that there are three factors required for any disease to occur: susceptible host, suitable environment for the pathogen, and a pathogen. So when trying to plan management strategies consider if you can get genetically resistant strains or make the environment not suitable for powdery mildew or sanitize equipment and room to limit spores.
I don't know why you would go and say something like this. You don't have any evidence to prove this claim and even if you could I don't understand how this would change management strategies.
This is true.
It also seems the PM is trolling and either is hocking the product because he has financial interest in doing so or has a lot of faith because he seems to be making a lot of claims without any proof to back them up.
Many of the methods he has mentioned do not work I can easily find scientific journal articles supporting their efficacy. I have personally used H202 (Hydrogen Peroxide) in the past to deal with powdery mildew problems and it has worked fantastically. Also it is nice to know exactly how your chemical break down - in the H202 reaction I know that the products are water and 02 which are both harmless to humans and plants.
I wouldn't use eagle 20 purely on economic basis though because it is more expensive then proper management strategies.
Not to interrupt your circle jerk but hes actually not spot on. Proper management strategies could eliminate the problem without the need for eagle 20. Fans do not just help, proper ventilation and good air flow is critical but also just as critical as eliminating other suitable conditions such as heat and humidity.
I totally agree..
I'm really sad to say but this thread is full of misinformation. I will try to clarify some.
Well almost, powdery mildew does not live systemically in the plant (meaning it does not travel through the vascular system). Most commonly asexual spores or conidia make their way to your leaves and begin germination. They will then grow an appendage known as a haustorium which is able to penetrate the plant cell cuticle and cell walls. This relationship is purely parasitic, they enter the plant cells and the appendage splits in order to have maximum surface area (one of the defining features of fungi is the ability to absorb nutrients).
Actually powdery mildew prefers hot conditions. So everything else I would agree with but not cool.
Hot, damp, humid, low air flow are critical factors which create a suitable environment for powdery mildew to grow.
Well whenever considering diseases you must realize that there are three factors required for any disease to occur: susceptible host, suitable environment for the pathogen, and a pathogen. So when trying to plan management strategies consider if you can get genetically resistant strains or make the environment not suitable for powdery mildew or sanitize equipment and room to limit spores.
I don't know why you would go and say something like this. You don't have any evidence to prove this claim and even if you could I don't understand how this would change management strategies.
This is true.
It also seems the PM is trolling and either is hocking the product because he has financial interest in doing so or has a lot of faith because he seems to be making a lot of claims without any proof to back them up.
Many of the methods he has mentioned do not work I can easily find scientific journal articles supporting their efficacy. I have personally used H202 (Hydrogen Peroxide) in the past to deal with powdery mildew problems and it has worked fantastically. Also it is nice to know exactly how your chemical break down - in the H202 reaction I know that the products are water and 02 which are both harmless to humans and plants.
I wouldn't use eagle 20 purely on economic basis though because it is more expensive then proper management strategies.
Not to interrupt your circle jerk but hes actually not spot on. Proper management strategies could eliminate the problem without the need for eagle 20. Fans do not just help, proper ventilation and good air flow is critical but also just as critical as eliminating other suitable conditions such as heat and humidity.
This starts out well enough wherein this poster restates my previous posts where I explain that PM is NOT systemic.
But sadly in the end this post offers nothing but BS.
Not using a fungicide like "Eagle" or any of about a dozen safe effective high tech products when you have a mildew problem is plain stupid. H2O2 is not a strategy. Nor is milk. It is a bandaid. And more then likely, it is the water that is killing the mildew. You don't even need H2O2. You just need H2O and a spreader.
Eliminating the conditions that mildew prefers (ie. high humidity) is even dumber since the plants we are all talking about demand high humidity to reach their full potential.
This poster tries to tell us we should look to breeds resistent to PM when a simple CHEAP application of a fungicide will kill and prevent it's reoccurrence, allowing the grower to grow whatever strain he wants. More stupidity.
And all these wonderful strategies he mentions are not outlined or discussed.
That's because when PM pressure is high using a fungicide is not only common sense, but makes cents
just wanted to say.. i had pm and hit the gals w/ neem, milk/water, etc.etc. and nothing did the trick.. then i found this great thread and hit them w/ eagle20.. didnt see anything for months.. then hit the girls again w/ eagle20 on the 12/12 flip as a preventative measure. havent seen anything since the first treatment!
Can any of you tell me if the PM you have is epiphytic or endophytic and why you think its one or the other?
Then lets talk about band-aids LOL
Hey pal, you're asking to debate your ignorance about pm with the wrong person. I've forgotten more about pm then you can look up on your computer.
D
Darkstarlive
All I know is I fought PM for 2 years with JMS Stylet Oil and after 1 (one) treatment of Eagle20 ew I haven't had PM for over 4 months now.
It did the trick and thats all I'm concerned with, I hate PM!!!
Peace...
It did the trick and thats all I'm concerned with, I hate PM!!!
Peace...
now thats funny!
grapeman- Then the answer is???
Dont think your the only grape grower here LOL
I love info so dont take what I post personally mang
im curious, i have no clue..........
OsWiZzLe
Active member
Enough is Enough.....
Early Xmas Gift for all you Mildew Haters
Grapeman ...you'll benefit from this alot too...quit being so mean to people
http://marronebioinnovations.com/products/regalia/
Do your own homework next time people
Early Xmas Gift for all you Mildew Haters
Grapeman ...you'll benefit from this alot too...quit being so mean to people
http://marronebioinnovations.com/products/regalia/
Do your own homework next time people
Enough is Enough.....
Early Xmas Gift for all you Mildew Haters
Grapeman ...you'll benefit from this alot too...quit being so mean to people
http://marronebioinnovations.com/products/regalia/
Do your own homework next time people
This is a really helpful product for those who are "organic". This product was available this past season and is about $65/gal.
But, it needs to be used in rotation with a product like "Eagle" or any of the others I listed before (rally, flint, pristine etc.).
I, for one, would not trust my crop to this and this alone, unless I was organic and had limited product availability. For protection, it needs to be reapplied every 7 to 10 days.
How's that for getting back on track?
Good info OsWiZzLe, thank you for posting this
I hate spraying my plants... So a sulfer burner is what works best for me
The reason I think the PM I have is epiphytic is because the sulfer burner works... If the PM was endophytic, the sulfer would not work
http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/pest_management/powdery_mild.htm
Sorry for mouthing off in your thread and taking it off track krunchbubble
I hope this helps
I hate spraying my plants... So a sulfer burner is what works best for me
The reason I think the PM I have is epiphytic is because the sulfer burner works... If the PM was endophytic, the sulfer would not work
http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/pest_management/powdery_mild.htm
Sorry for mouthing off in your thread and taking it off track krunchbubble
I hope this helps
OsWiZzLe
Active member
2 applications of Giant Knotweed extract and 1 dose of Immunix...i havent had Powdery Mildew in almost a year now.... I would be over spraying my plants all the time ..thats a headache for sure....i use the 2 above items once in veg right b4 bloom and again in week 2 of flowering...... Giant Knotweed is cool because it builds your plants SAR values....accompany this with some salicylic acid and other SAR goodies...your plant will have natural antibiotics to fight off diseases/bugs.
Good info OsWiZzLe, thank you for posting this
I hate spraying my plants... So a sulfer burner is what works best for me
The reason I think the PM I have is epiphytic is because the sulfer burner works... If the PM was endophytic, the sulfer would not work
http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/pest_management/powdery_mild.htm
Sorry for mouthing off in your thread and taking it off track krunchbubble
I hope this helps
thanks guys! i dont want this thread binned becasue of arguing, there is way to much valuable information in here to go to waste....
