The Search for Trip Weed

[Koondense]

Muay Thai

Muay Thai

Hello TB,
got a picture of MuayThai, my first wanna-be trip weed.
Nicely flowering, very open flower structure, sadly not visible on crappy photos. Reminded me of the whispy destroyer, but not as packed with resin. Still early in flowering so we'll see how she performs.



She seems to have a deficency of some kind, maybe N and S but shouldn't be the case(another plant with same mix is doing well). Can anyone help me here? Next time I'll feed her some organic bloom mix, hopefully she'll get better.

 

[ThaiBliss]

Hello TB,
got a picture of MuayThai, my first wanna-be trip weed.
Nicely flowering, very open flower structure, sadly not visible on crappy photos. Reminded me of the whispy destroyer, but not as packed with resin. Still early in flowering so we'll see how she performs.

[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=53908&pictureid=1303833&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

She seems to have a deficency of some kind, maybe N and S but shouldn't be the case(another plant with same mix is doing well). Can anyone help me here? Next time I'll feed her some organic bloom mix, hopefully she'll get better.

Hi Koondense,

That really looks like a nice plant. Is it flowering now simply because the roots have filled in the available space? I know very little about auto flowering. I have had cuttings go flowering, sort of, and I was not able to get it to go into veg again by cutting it way back. One of the 5 best strains I ever grew I suspect was auto flowering. It always seemed as soon as it got healthy with a head of steam, it would start pre-flowering heavily. I handled it by growing in more of a sea of green style. It was very potent, and good quality after only 5 -6 weeks of flowering. It was very productive even though it had small buds, because of the quick turnaround. After my experience with that cutting, I no longer believe it is necessary to have long flowering genetics to have world class potency and quality. It all depends on the strain.

In my opinion, it is normal for the big fan leaves to start yellowing and falling off as the plant starts flowering, especially Sativa strains. My outside ones are doing that, but I also have been limiting water and fertilizer intentionally. Your plant may have a deficiency, but I would avoid fertilizing heavily to try and get rid of further yellowing. I believe I am in the minority opinion on this approach.

Can't wait until the next pictures.

ThaiBliss

 

[Koondense]

Thanks ThaiBliss,
I think the flowering trigger is not in rootspace as I'm growing her straingt in the ground. It's about a hormone trigger in the ruderalis I think, and is related to plant age. But I never did any research about this, so can't say for sure.

Nice to hear your satisfaction with an autoflower plant, I was not so impressed so far.

I was worried because the yellowing started pretty early, she's not even half thru her flowering cycle I guess, should be around 8-9weeks from first preflowers and she stretched like crazy since two weeks ago. Must have consumed the soil and is now fading.
The feed won't be of the strongest, but a friendly kick in the ass might help her a lot. I expect her to be good to harvest from end september to mid october, but she's not flowering evenly, so I'll have to adapt.

Be sure I'll post more pictures next time, your thread among some other great ones inspired me to grow a Thai(-ish)!




Bliss

 

[Thule]

Hi Bushy,



I debate the first part, but I plan on doing what you suggest in the second. I will wait for every single pistil to die. I'm going to do that with the Oaxacan also. Thanks for the help.

ThaiBliss

Hi, I'm no expert but I've heard people recommend a slightly earlier chop with Oaxacans to get the most uplifting experience. My Oaxacan (not copalita) was flowered until it withered away, I have a feeling I lost some of the magic by letting it go to long.. the jury is still out on that one.

Maybe keep this on mind and harvest in stages?

 

[ThaiBliss]

Hi, I'm no expert but I've heard people recommend a slightly earlier chop with Oaxacans to get the most uplifting experience. My Oaxacan (not copalita) was flowered until it withered away, I have a feeling I lost some of the magic by letting it go to long.. the jury is still out on that one.

Maybe keep this on mind and harvest in stages?

Hi Thule,

Thanks for the post. My only Oaxacan experience was that Neville's Haze freak that looked like Oaxacan, and smelled like Thai. I let it go to the last pistil, and it was killer. I got tricky the next time and sped it up by two weeks by reducing hours of light, and it was nothing.

That being said, it is certainly worth chopping a branch earlier just to make sure. Probably a wise move.

Thanks again,

ThaiBliss

 

[Perpetual Nooch]

In my opinion, it is normal for the big fan leaves to start yellowing and falling off as the plant starts flowering, especially Sativa strains. My outside ones are doing that, but I also have been limiting water and fertilizer intentionally. Your plant may have a deficiency, but I would avoid fertilizing heavily to try and get rid of further yellowing. I believe I am in the minority opinion on this approach.

ThaiBliss

Damn it, really? This is what happened to me. About 6 weeks into flowering all the large leaves began dying. This is my first sativa grow (Zamaldelica standard) and I was sure that I screwed it up somehow.

 

[Mustafunk]

In my opinion, it is normal for the big fan leaves to start yellowing and falling off as the plant starts flowering, especially Sativa strains. My outside ones are doing that, but I also have been limiting water and fertilizer intentionally. Your plant may have a deficiency, but I would avoid fertilizing heavily to try and get rid of further yellowing.

I agree... and not only with tropical NLD hybrids but all of them I guess. But as humans, we are obsessed with the perfect grow and all this fancy nutrients. Flowering phase is the begginning of the end of the plant and it makes no sense to reach the harvesting day with those dark green shiny leaves unless its for a photoshoot, we need to learn to appreciate the natural beauty of the plant's senescence when it's about to die as well.

Haze X Skunk getting yellow before the chop, not super trippy but definitely one of my favourite daytime smoke.

OT Haze x Meao Thai, the clash of two fantastic genetics bred by Charlie Garcia. Pure caffeine!

I think it's ok to let the plant run out of nutrients naturally (especially all the nitrogen) as the plant reachs its end. It really improves the final product, the appeal, the smoke and the taste. Keep in mind that if the plant gets yellow already before chopping, you won't need to wait for a super long cure to get the chlorophyl to dissapear and end with a smooth tasty smoke. Maybe you will loose a few grams against those perfect catalogue plants on green roids lol, but I swear the final quality will be worthy and you will be happy with those amazing golden sweet nugs!

Bangi CBG "Gold", tasty and active as well:

 

[Siever]

I agree... and not only with tropical NLD hybrids but all of them I guess. But as humans, we are obsessed with the perfect grow and all this fancy nutrients. Flowering phase is the begginning of the end of the plant and it makes no sense to reach the harvesting day with those dark green shiny leaves unless its for a photoshoot, we need to learn to appreciate the natural beauty of the plant's senescence when it's about to die as well.

I think it's ok to let the plant run out of nutrients naturally (especially all the nitrogen) as the plant reachs its end. It really improves the final product, the appeal, the smoke and the taste. Keep in mind that if the plant gets yellow already before chopping, you won't need to wait for a super long cure to get the chlorophyl to dissapear and end with a smooth tasty smoke. Maybe you will loose a few grams against those perfect catalogue plants on green roids lol, but I swear the final quality will be worthy and you will be happy with those amazing golden sweet nugs!

I too grow all my plants like that, but I noticed Sativa strains have this more profound than other strains.

Siever

 

[Pepe le skunk]

TB,
Could it be possible to add a topping to the pot every 3 weeks with a small boost of nitrogen and the last dose leave the nitrogen out? Or a tea? Using water the rest of the time.

Was brewing teas at week 1, week 4 and week 7 flower to boost the output.
24 hr brew (flower)for week 4 and 7 and 48 hrs (to use up) for week 1 and veg if you have extra.
I'm sure adding in a source of nitrogen (tea or layer of hot dirt) would be available right away in flower.
Seems to help anyway from my observations.. (had a big mushroom grow out the soil before in late flower. lol)

You could go to week 12 and cut nitrogen before the final flush weeks.
The idea is to let the plant use the remaining nutes and ride the new flower wave using nitrogen manipulation to encorage the 2 week new flower burst. As new flower growth fades the next week is the tea boost to encorage new growth.

As for yellow leaves, found that removing leaves as the weeks continue and even lollypop like cleanout (strip) of the plant should be done to allow light in to the hard to reach places 1-2 weeks before final harvest. Allows air in as well to keep mold away. Removing leaves does not have a negative effect unless you remove them all.

 

[ThaiBliss]

Greetings,

I knew the my idea of using low enough fertilizer to see the naturally yellowing plant idea was going to stir the pot. People have strong feelings about this. Thanks to the peeps chiming in that agree with not getting worried about yellowing leaves.

Mustafunk - You sure grow a lot of strains that interest me. Those Bangi buds look really good. I have one Bangi Haze out of three females that look especially gold colored, even before the big fan leaves have started yellowing. Those are beautiful looking buds you got. Nice job.

TB,
Could it be possible to add a topping to the pot every 3 weeks with a small boost of nitrogen and the last dose leave the nitrogen out? Or a tea? Using water the rest of the time.

Was brewing teas at week 1, week 4 and week 7 flower to boost the output.
24 hr brew (flower)for week 4 and 7 and 48 hrs (to use up) for week 1 and veg if you have extra.
I'm sure adding in a source of nitrogen (tea or layer of hot dirt) would be available right away in flower.
Seems to help anyway from my observations.. (had a big mushroom grow out the soil before in late flower. lol)

You could go to week 12 and cut nitrogen before the final flush weeks.
The idea is to let the plant use the remaining nutes and ride the new flower wave using nitrogen manipulation to encorage the 2 week new flower burst. As new flower growth fades the next week is the tea boost to encorage new growth.

As for yellow leaves, found that removing leaves as the weeks continue and even lollypop like cleanout (strip) of the plant should be done to allow light in to the hard to reach places 1-2 weeks before final harvest. Allows air in as well to keep mold away. Removing leaves does not have a negative effect unless you remove them all.

Pepe - Compost tea is fertilizer, and I stop using it after July 1 outside, a month before flowering normally starts. However, if you brew like I do, it is actually very low dose fertilizer, and I think the little denizens that get added with the compost use a lot of it up during the brewing process. That is the point of the tea, to grow micro-biotic creatures that break down organic matter and add their own excrement. It is amazing how great this works. For those who have not tried this, I highly recommend it. The plants actually glow, and the leaves reach for the sky, just like in the early morning light. It is noticeable within a day of use. If you use compost, there are earthworms in the soil, and you add compost tea a few times during the season, then there is no use for any extra fertilizer at all. You plants will grow very big and be very happy.

I live in a state where medical Cannabis is legal, plant counts are limited, so people fertilize the crap out of their plants to make them as big as possible. But they are smart enough to grow mainly organic, and compost teas are heavily used. People commonly grow 12 pound plants. People bring their last year's dried stalks to the Cannabis festivals, and they are big enough to make into a didgeridoo. I swear the very bottom of the stalk is as big as my thigh, and I'm a big dude.


ThaiBliss

 

[MostlyMe]

In one of my first grows I didn't notice the leaves yellowing during the stretch (because of the yellow hps glare) and I was left with mostly yellow leaves. Since yield and product were fine, I never cared much about yellow leaves in flower. In fact, I think starving the plant speeds up maturation.

Still, I like to feed quite minimally but enough to keep everything green up until 6-8 weeks before estimated harvest date. This because healthy leaves provide a means to diagnose other deficiencies than N.

 

[HerBnGorE(illa)]

Thanks for this thread. Lots of great info for a sativa lover like myself.

 

[Thule]

Outdoors I try to keep the plants well fertilized and green as this keeps them in good health until chopping time. The greener the plant, the better it's able to withstand rain and frost. Deficient plants are always the first ones to fall in a cold rainy climate such as mine.

 

[Siever]

Outdoors I try to keep the plants well fertilized and green as this keeps them in good health until chopping time. The greener the plant, the better it's able to withstand rain and frost. Deficient plants are always the first ones to fall in a cold rainy climate such as mine.

Right at this moment I have this Paradise seeds Acid plant that is very pale. At first I thought it had not enough nitrogen. When I gave nitrogen it develloped the claw. So it is a pale plant by nature.

Siever

 

[Waldgeist]

Right at this moment I have this Paradise seeds Acid plant that is very pale. At first I thought it had not enough nitrogen. When I gave nitrogen it develloped the claw. So it is a pale plant by nature.

Siever

some strains, I think mostly Thai/Haze influenced, can throw up phenos
that are yellow/pale colored by nature.
those seem to react very bad to chemical N(my observations). specially NH4-N based fertilizers.
watch NO3-N to NH4-N ratios in fertilizer or give wormtea to reduce clawing when feeding additional N in flower.

slight foliar applications of extra Phosphate in early flowering gives strong leaves and darker green colour without additional N.

 

[Siever]

Hi Waldgeist,

thanks for the tip. The last few days the leaves have darkened like it looks like a regular plant by now. Most N I give comes from bonemeal I buy in the local shop and from whey from (Greek) yoghurt I make myself. I give a little chemical N, but that's not much at all.

Siever

 

[satva]

The plan: Destroyer/PCK -1 female x Highland Mexican / Blueberry male (Highland Guerrero phenotype)
Destroyer/PCK - 18.5 weeks

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Destroyer/PCK - 18.5 weeks

Destroyer/PCK - 18.5 weeks

Highland Mexican / Blueberry - 15 weeks

Highland Mexican / Blueberry - 15 weeks


Destroyer/PCK - several more months of cure needed. The Highland Mexican grown from clones many times for stash. A couple of Highland Guerrero phenotypes to chose a male partner for the Destroyer / PCK female shown.

 

[satva]

The plan: Destroyer/PCK -1 female x Highland Mexican / Blueberry male (Highland Guerrero phenotype)
Destroyer / PCK female - 15 weeks of flower

Highland Mexican male

Highland Mexican/Blueberry 50-50% pheno - shake from flowers. Vape a gram for magic trip.

If you can flower a fully mature Highland Guerrero female its a magic carpet ride. The Highland Mexican makes wispy and hazey flowers very floral, lime, and mango aroma when fully cured. The Destroyer female has a sage, pepper, and straw aroma.

 

[satva]

Destroyer/PCK 18.5 weeks, no more white hairs

Last harvest fully cured. .

 

[ThaiBliss]

Hi Satva,

I don't know much about the PCK, but I like where you are going with the rest of the combinations.

I have a Nepalese crossed with the Blue Mountain Jamaican going outside at the moment that I am loving. It is very bushy with thin long clean buds that make it look very mold resistant and productive. It looks to be early enough for our climate here. If I like the smoke, I'm thinking of crossing it to the 1960s Jamaican for my own version of Double Jam, early style.

So, with that, I think it is time to give an update of the Nepalese outdoor grow, Bangi Haze and Nepal Jam. Here is the garden shot:

All the plants are now budding up nicely. The one Bangi Haze I grew indoors looks like it was an especially productive plant compare to these. I'm only observing, since I don't care much about that. I'm looking for the early potent one.

Skinny leaf, perfume and lemon smelling Bangi Haze:

Here is the big fat leaved, fat bud, and hashy smelling Bangi Haze:

Here is another shot of this plant, with the Nepal Jam seen in back on the right:

Below is the extremely bushy Nepal Jam. I love the clean skinny buds. Despite the small bud size, it looks the most productive due to the numerous bud sites due to extreme branching and bud sites all up and down the stems:

A Nepal Jam male was the first to drop pollen, and a few branches have been pollinated. Both the female and male are the earliest of the bunch this summer. Whether or not they ripen the earliest is another story, of course. So far, I'm really happy about them.

I'll also give an update on the two indoor plants later today.

Take Care All,

ThaiBliss