The Official Hempy Bucket Thread

[RetroGrow]

Retro: Would I start a seed the same way? Could I start it in straight coco, and when the 16oz cup is loaded with roots transplant it to a coco Hempy? Thank you

Of course! That works fine, but I have gotten better results with the seed starter mix. I think it's the mycorrhizae & mild nutrients. I start in paper towels, though, then to seed starter mix after they pop. You could use coco with a bit of Rhizotinic though. That works well also.

 

[Bobbo4200]

Not exactly sure how im gonna pop them, or start them. How deep should I plant it? Thanks again!

 

[Lazyeye]

I'm switching to coco hempys next round. Tired of the messy perlite/vermiculite/rockwool/ALGAE! Can I keep using GHE Flora Nova as nutes or do I need something else?

 

[BrownThumb]

I'm switching to coco hempys next round. Tired of the messy perlite/vermiculite/rockwool/ALGAE! Can I keep using GHE Flora Nova as nutes or do I need something else?

Of course, but they say you need to add cal/mag for the first two weeks or something like that w/ coir. I switched for the same reason (mess) and have not been using cal/mag. I have not seen any serious problems so not sure it's really needed.

 

[bmaster]

I'm switching to coco hempys next round. Tired of the messy perlite/vermiculite/rockwool/ALGAE! Can I keep using GHE Flora Nova as nutes or do I need something else?

Good choice Lazyeye! You'll be so happy you did. You can use regular nutes, but coco nutes are formulated to work with coco's unique relationship with the plant and it's cation exchange. It takes the guess work out of it.
Btw. You might want to supplement with calmag if using GHE Flora Nova as it is high in K.

 

[RetroGrow]

Not exactly sure how im gonna pop them, or start them. How deep should I plant it? Thanks again!

I like to use paper towel method. They usually pop in 24 hours. Then when tail is an inch or so long, put in the medium after making a hole with a pencil or similar object.
Set the root into the whole, and close hole around it, and you are good to go. Don't touch roots with fingers. I use a dental pick to lift them, but a plastic spoon or fork is good too.

 

[RetroGrow]

I'm switching to coco hempys next round. Tired of the messy perlite/vermiculite/rockwool/ALGAE! Can I keep using GHE Flora Nova as nutes or do I need something else?

Yes, you can use Flora Nova in coco. No cal-mag needed. However, I prefer Maxibloom, using K.I.S.S. method. It's all you need, besides rhizotonic. Rhizotonic stimulates root growth. See K.I.S.S. thread for details. Basically, it's 800 PPMs per gallon of Maxibloom, same as for coco in other pots, but feed daily to run off to refresh rez and develop hydro roots. 800 PPMs all the way through @ PH 5.8, and add silica too. I also add one 325 Mg tablet of aspirin per gallon of nute solution to boost plants immune system, which helps protect against pathogens/pests.

 

[Lazyeye]

Thanks for the help guys.

Retrogrow: Maxibloom isn't carried within europe I'm afraid... Aspirin? For plants? Really?

What coco would you chose from: B'cuzz coco slabs, Biobizz Coco-Mix, Bionova coco bricks, Canna Coco slabs? This is what my hydrostore carries.

 

[oneshot]

Do you guys start your seedlings in their final buckets or do you go solo cups > final buckets?

The reason I ask is I am used to doing 2 gallon buckets, this grow I am doing 5 gallon. I am just wondering if I should go straight from solo cups to the 5 gallons or do the 2 gallon in between. I know in the coco hempy thread, Hempy says to start out in 5 gallons.

 

[Lazyeye]

I'm at my first grow so I don't know how much my opinion counts. But I started out in 1.5L containers and will then move up to 10L (~2.5g). Works good for me. Although I did it because of space limitations.

 

[RetroGrow]

Thanks for the help guys.

Retrogrow: Maxibloom isn't carried within europe I'm afraid... Aspirin? For plants? Really?

What coco would you chose from: B'cuzz coco slabs, Biobizz Coco-Mix, Bionova coco bricks, Canna Coco slabs? This is what my hydrostore carries.

I prefer Canna, but have only used B'Cuzz bricks once, and didn't like them. Too chunky. I would go with Canna bricks if you can't find bagged.

 

[Lazyeye]

Is there any major difference? Never used coco.

 

[RetroGrow]

Do you guys start your seedlings in their final buckets or do you go solo cups > final buckets?

The reason I ask is I am used to doing 2 gallon buckets, this grow I am doing 5 gallon. I am just wondering if I should go straight from solo cups to the 5 gallons or do the 2 gallon in between. I know in the coco hempy thread, Hempy says to start out in 5 gallons.

My advice is don't waste your time/money on 5 gallon buckets. I have gotten bigger plants in 2 gallon buckets by feeding daily, than I got in 5 gallon buckets, which was my previous method. It's just a waste of coco, and plants will not get any bigger. That's the beauty of Hempys. Small buckets yield huge if you feed DAILY. My last run in 2 gallon buckets, I had 7 foot plants that weighed in at between 8 & 14 oz. of dried bud, bigger than any I have grown in 5 gallon buckets. The only disadvantage of the smaller buckets is they tend to tip over more easily if you are growing trees, but most people are probably not going to grow 7 foot plants with a two month veg. Hempy himself uses 2 gallon buckets, or equivalent if I'm not mistaken. If you feed daily, plants take in as much nutrients as possible, so the added bucket space doesn't matter, as it would in a soil grow. Remember, it's hydro. I have pictures in my gallery of 5 gallon Hempys, which were nice, but no where near the size of those grown in 2 gallon buckets fed daily or even twice daily, or using drip rings, which feed constantly. The key is to water/feed to run off daily or more, which refreshes the rez constantly and provides fresh oxygen. Use saucers under your buckets to catch the run off, and I use a shop vac to suck up the overflow. Works great, as you don't need to constantly pick up the buckets and empty the saucers.
Daily run off is the key to huge plants, as you are getting a similar condition to DWC or other hydro setup where plants are constantly bathed in freshly oxygenated solution. Sometimes it's hard to wrap your head around the fact that this is hydro, and the more frequently you change the solution, the more the plants like it. Hydro roots come from daily feeding and =explosive growth. You can get decent results by using bigger buckets and feeding every third day if you don't want to bother with the daily watering, but you will not get hydro roots, and you will not get the same explosive growth. To me, it defeats the purpose of the system. Try a side by side: put one plant in a 5 gallon bucket and water every third day, and put another next to it in a 2 gallon bucket and water daily or more, and you will see that the 2 gallon bucket fed daily will dramatically outperform the 5 gallon bucket watered every third day or every other day. The roots don't need much space if they are constantly bathed in fresh solution.
Oh, and to answer your initial question: solo cups directly to final 2 gallon buckets, and immediately start the daily or more feedings. That's all they need. Once the root system has been established in the solo cups, there is no danger of over watering. That's why I suggest the clear cups, so you can see the root system clearly. If you are paranoid about algae, use another opaque cup over the clear ones, but in my experience, this is not necessary, because they are not in the clear cups long enough to develop algae before the transplant. If you are nervous about it, just use 2 cups.

 

[oneshot]

Oh, and to answer your initial question: solo cups directly to final 2 gallon buckets, and immediately start the daily or more feedings. That's all they need. Once the root system has been established in the solo cups, there is no danger of over watering. That's why I suggest the clear cups, so you can see the root system clearly. If you are paranoid about algae, use another opaque cup over the clear ones, but in my experience, this is not necessary, because they are not in the clear cups long enough to develop algae before the transplant. If you are nervous about it, just use 2 cups.

In Hempy's coco thread, he is using 5 gallon buckets.

Yeah, I have been reading your posts on the daily watering. I am going to try that this round. I haven't really heard of other people doing that though. Although, I haven't been following the Hempy threads too much since I have been doing it for awhile. I didn't do daily waterings though.

I guess I will stick to the 2 gallons. This will also allow me to have more plants in my 4x4 too.

 

[RetroGrow]

Is there any major difference? Never used coco.

I have used B'Cuzz bricks, but much prefer the bagged Canna. Some places don't stock it due to space limitations. If you get bricked coco, be sure to flush it well before use. Flushing not necessary with bagged Canna.
And don't forget the Rhizotonic. Works wonders in coco and wouldn't grow in coco without it. You can add it to your final flush if you are using bricked coco. Don't use bricked coco without flushing. A similar product is House & Garden Roots Excellerator, but I would go with Rhizotonic if available in your area, and I don't see why it wouldn't be. You can get it online, also. Google it. And Google Canna coco, to find out from Canna website where to get bagged Canna near you. No flushing needed, and comes in a fine grain, which I find preferable, especially in small Hempy buckets. Can't hurt to try. If you must use bricked coco, go with the fine grain type, rather than the type that has large chips in it. You can get more information in the coco forum, but in my mind, you can't beat bagged Canna coco. No flushing needed is a big advantage.
Aspirin for plants? Absolutely! Stimulates plants immune system. Google it.
And don't forget the silica. Oh, and use tap water, not RO or other bottled water, as tap has minerals in it, ie., calcium, unless your tap water is particularly foul for some reason, which I doubt. If it's drinkable, it's fine for your plants. Check with local water company to find out exactly what's in your water. They will give you the composition. No need for cal/mag. Just draw it 24 hours in advance to allow chlorine to dissipate. Chlorine will not hurt plants, but will kill beneficial bacteria, if you are using them, and they are contained in Rhizotonic & mycorrhizae in seed starter mix. If you are not using "bennies", you should be. "Great White" is a good one.

 

[RetroGrow]

In Hempy's coco thread, he is using 5 gallon buckets.

Yeah, I have been reading your posts on the daily watering. I am going to try that this round. I haven't really heard of other people doing that though. Although, I haven't been following the Hempy threads too much since I have been doing it for awhile. I didn't do daily waterings though.

I guess I will stick to the 2 gallons. This will also allow me to have more plants in my 4x4 too.

Trust me on the daily watering. It makes a huge difference. I have done it every which way. Results from "daily", or even twice daily or constant with drip rings are far superior. Think hydro:constant fresh solution brings fresh oxygen and hydro roots. 2 gallon buckets with daily is superior in every way to 5 gallon buckets, which aren't necessary with Hempys/hydro, and you are using less than half the coco=much cheaper.
Also, I'm pretty sure Hempy is using 2 gallon buckets, but he is in Europe, so probably 5 liter, hence the confusion.
No need for 5 gallon buckets. Even one gallons work well, but require even more watering. I have found 2 gallon buckets or 2.5 gallons (what they sell in Home Depot) to be ideal.

 

[grassott's dad]

Do you guys start your seedlings in their final buckets or do you go solo cups > final buckets?

The reason I ask is I am used to doing 2 gallon buckets, this grow I am doing 5 gallon. I am just wondering if I should go straight from solo cups to the 5 gallons or do the 2 gallon in between. I know in the coco hempy thread, Hempy says to start out in 5 gallons.

Hempy prefers to use 2 gallons, not 5, but anything from a 1 gal - 5 gal will do.

To get the fastest possible growth, go straight from rooted clone or seedling (in rockwool cube, starter cube or what ever) to their final bucket. This minimizes transplant shock.

Starting from rooted clone to cup/bottle to bucket slows things down slightly, which can be an advantage in some gardens.

Just do what you find best. If it's fastest and biggest possible growth you're after, rooted clone to final bucket is the best way.

 

[BrownThumb]

I too have been doing the daily watering thing, however I have not done it differently, so can't comment on it being better or not. I do slack on watering my veggies daily, but they're tiny, so every couple of days is plenty even though they're in solo cups. Think in terms of scale when you see my micro hempy. It's top heavy, so I have to be really careful to not let it fall over, especially when it dries out. This has to be watered daily or it would die.

 

[Bobbo4200]

I always do rooted clone to final bucket-just rapid rooter/clone into her final home ;-)

 

[catman]

Water defies gravity in most mediums. The medium wicks up water to a certain height depending on the size of the medium particles in combination with the texture of them. Most mediums will not wick up water more than 6 inches and that hypothetical 6 inches in no different in a 2 or 5 gallon bucket. A 5 gal is wider and therefore doesn't need to produce as many or any "hydro" roots because the current root mass can already supply the plant's moisture need. If the air a plant is growing in is hot and dry, the plant needs to adapt (send more water up) and it takes time for root cells to change their form. I often read about sudden explosive growth, but maybe that's because most cats don't notice how their plant was on pause while it was adapting. One may get superior results using a smaller container because they water more often which flushes nutrient salts back down more frequently;in opposition to the upward wicking action. How a cat feeds his plants is the "root issue" and the bigger the container, the less nutrient concentration is needed. Most mediums have an ability to say grab on to nutrients and the plant can then take the nutrients from storage when needed. Perlite does not have this ability and therefore it really is like hydroponics, which has it's down falls as well. Perlite reacts (although little) with nutrient solutions and changes the pH which causes nutrient salts to separate from water and sort of crystallize into a form which can not be used by the plants ever again. Hope that helps.