The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD].

[Neo 420]

I believe if you FPE stinging nettles and use it full strength its a herbicide.

 

[Neo 420]

...im mixing up a new batch now...but i swear,if i see one frickin gnat it all goes outside into the veggie garden......

Between the crab/neem meal, H miles mite and my IPM foliars in my garden, I couldn't get gnats to to set up even if I invited them. I don't even close my door when lights are on...
I do get gnats when I make clones but by time they get transplanted there are long gone....

 

[Neo 420]

I can't stop Googling keywords... I'm into this.

My google keyword adventure so far..
Phototroph(They use the energy from light to carry out various cellular metabolic processes)-->Enzyme(They are highly selective catalysts, greatly accelerating both the rate and specificity of metabolic reactions) <-- all kinds of stuff could be happening right there.

then...
Surfactant-->Tonicity-->Cytolysis<-- is bad

I think it's a combination of things going on, not quite sure if they are all good or all bad... but i think it's in this string of keywords somewhere...

Proteins...

http://pcp.oxfordjournals.org/content/48/7/900.short

Nyctinastic plants open and close leaves with a circadian rhythm. Here we discuss chemical aspects of the mechanism of nyctinastic leaf movement. Nyctinastic plants from five different genera are known to contain species-specific leaf-opening and leaf-closing factors. The relative concentrations of leaf-closing and leaf-opening factors of the nyctinastic plant Phyllanthus urinaria change circadianly, suggesting that nyctinastic movement is regulated by two classes of circadianly regulated factors with opposing functions. A closing and an opening factor of Albizzia, when linked to a fluorescent dye, both specifically labeled motor cells of pluvini. A membrane fraction of pluvini contains proteins of 210 and 180 kDa that bind to a leaf-opening factor of Cassia mimosoides. The molecular identification of these proteins is underway.

 

[somoz]

Hey all, so I just finished building the base of my soil with the primary base ingredients.*
*
35-40 gal peat
35 gal compost/castings
21 gal lava rock
7 gal vermiculite
5 gal clay
5 gal topsoil
5 gal coco husk

I'm going to amend the soil this week and had a couple of questions. I'm working in the 4x4 tray liners which comes out to 100-115 gal beds, *the original recipe from Gas was for about 15 gallons. I could times all the amendments by 6 to 7 of his ratio which would get me around 100-115 gals but was unsure if this would be too intense, and my inclination is that it is going to be way to hot.*

So for example per each 100-115 gallons if I was to calculate 6 times the amount from the original recipe it would be per 115 gallon pots.*

12 cups crab shell meal
24 cups kelp meal
24 cups fish bone meal
24 cups fish meal
6 cups k-mag
12 cups neem seed meal
6 cups alfalfa

Does that sound reasonable or fry city? The soil is only going to cook for a week or two max but I do plan on transplanting into a buffer mix so the roots don't hit the hot mix right away.*

Lime Mix:

4 cups aragonite -- I have this laying around, could do just gypsum and osf but variety never hurts in my book. Any opinion?
4 cups gypsum
16 cups oyster shell flower

I also have these other ingredients laying around and was going to try and incorporate them as well.....per 100-115 gallon pots.*

6 cups feather meal
6 cups azomite
6 *cups rock phosphate
6 cups green sand
12 cups glacial rock dust

Any educated input is greatly appreciated!

 

[FunTimesIndeed]

Between the crab/neem meal, H miles mite and my IPM foliars in my garden, I couldn't get gnats to to set up even if I invited them. I don't even close my door when lights are on...
I do get gnats when I make clones but by time they get transplanted there are long gone....

That. I've had a strip of fly paper up for a long time, just to gauge any infestation, and have yet to catch 1.

 

[xmobotx]

RD i been 'micro-amending' all along

lol people saying TBS/gal not worth it? i do tsp/gal

more and more, i will be relying on nutrient cycled compost though <@ 2 years down the road

 

[invocation]

I made this little herbal tea a few days ago and I guess my Gogi OG really liked it.

Recipe:
5 gal bucket with 4 gal h20
3 tsp tm-7
1/4 cup kelp
1/2 cup alfalfa

Bubbled for 24 hours applied with aloe and coconut via drench.

 

[al-k-mist]

Look whats popping up by the zillions, horsetail ferns. No, they dont taste good raw (how do you cook em? you can eat them young,, right?

@Bigshrimp and Neo420..thanks for the advice about that f#@king poison oak. Bigshrimp, Id have to pasturize a LOT of straw, and therefore a lot of cow poo, to kill all of that!

Can regular ol worms compost as good as red wigglers? when we were planting the raspberries fry-day there were like a dozen worms in each hole when we pulled the dirt out, and lots in the garden. I added 40+ to the compost pile a few times, but Id like to spend the next rain day gathering a few hundred or so!

 

[Gascanastan]

Hey all, so I just finished building the base of my soil with the primary base ingredients.*
*
35-40 gal peat
35 gal compost/castings
21 gal lava rock
7 gal vermiculite
5 gal clay
5 gal topsoil
5 gal coco husk

I'm going to amend the soil this week and had a couple of questions. I'm working in the 4x4 tray liners which comes out to 100-115 gal beds, *the original recipe from Gas was for about 15 gallons. I could times all the amendments by 6 to 7 of his ratio which would get me around 100-115 gals but was unsure if this would be too intense, and my inclination is that it is going to be way to hot.*

So for example per each 100-115 gallons if I was to calculate 6 times the amount from the original recipe it would be per 115 gallon pots.*

12 cups crab shell meal
24 cups kelp meal
24 cups fish bone meal
24 cups fish meal
6 cups k-mag
12 cups neem seed meal
6 cups alfalfa

Does that sound reasonable or fry city? The soil is only going to cook for a week or two max but I do plan on transplanting into a buffer mix so the roots don't hit the hot mix right away.*

Lime Mix:

4 cups aragonite -- I have this laying around, could do just gypsum and osf but variety never hurts in my book. Any opinion?
4 cups gypsum
16 cups oyster shell flower

I also have these other ingredients laying around and was going to try and incorporate them as well.....per 100-115 gallon pots.*

6 cups feather meal
6 cups azomite
6 *cups rock phosphate
6 cups green sand
12 cups glacial rock dust

Any educated input is greatly appreciated!

I'd back off the alflafa and the fish meal a bit if you are only going to let it sit two weeks....not long enough breakdown time...burning highly possible. YMMV outside my original post.

Don't need feather meal if you have fish bone....greensand is nearly worthless...don't need SRP if using fish bone.

No need to overload your base mix...you can always incorporate other goodies on future recycles.

 

[vonforne]

No need to overload your base mix...you can always incorporate other goodies on future recycles.

That is what I do. Make sure you have a solid base mix and add things as you find them or can afford them.

 

[shmalphy]

Has anyone heard of this?

http://www.bluesagemicrobes.com/

Has to be one of the biggest scams I have ever seen...

 

[BlueJayWay]

$100 per plant?!??? Well fuck me Freddy! That's ridonkulous!

 

[invocation]

That is crazy ^^ On a side note, does everyone seem to get faster flowering times than normal with all this organic goodness we spoil our girls with? I swear I have ran the many of the same strains before and they seem to keep finishing a lot faster than I'm used to (almost a week early).

 

[al-k-mist]

quote, by the company Schmalphy linked to above
"At Blue Sage, we know we can break current records for THC and CBD levels with the use of our Superior Cultivation System. We invite growers to challenge themselves and our system. We are offering $300 worth of FREE product for growers that break the 30% barrier in terms of THC and/or 15% for CBD. Are you up to the test?"

dudes, if someone has over 30% THC, well, theyre doing pretty fuckin' good, and probably wont do it with your bullshit companies products.
what a bunch of scammers

 

[shmalphy]

"At Blue Sage Microbes, We do the science, so our growers don't have to."

because if they choose your products, they are clearly incapable.

 

[al-k-mist]

100% organic
Blue Sage Microbes' products are manufactured in our FDA certified laboratory. We have spared no expense or resource to deliver the highest quality of nutrients to our end users.

Increase Plant Health {against mites and disease}
When plants have every mineral they need in the perfect ratios they can build ideal defense mechanisms against disease, insects, and mites. We don't claim to eliminate problems from your garden completely, the products are not magical; they are scientific. Plants raised on the Blue Sage Microbes' system automatically create an environment where these problems are dramatically reduced and will not thrive.

man, these are friggin clowns. they are playing on peoples ignorance, and have so many contradictiry statements on their site it is amazing...and their nutes are just for weed, lol

 

[invocation]

Should be pulling some of these in the next 2 weeks and some sooner.

Bloody Mary, Casey Jones, Hindu Blue, and Blue Tara



PS I didn't use any Blue Sage Microbes

 

[somoz]

I'd back off the alflafa and the fish meal a bit if you are only going to let it sit two weeks....not long enough breakdown time...burning highly possible. YMMV outside my original post.

Don't need feather meal if you have fish bone....greensand is nearly worthless...don't need SRP if using fish bone.

No need to overload your base mix...you can always incorporate other goodies on future recycles.

Thanks for addressing this Gas, SRP = Rock Phosphate? And does the liming mix look to be ok, was going off 1/2 cup for the gypsum & aragonite per c.f. and 1 cup of oyster shell flour per c.f. Think I'm going to dial everything down 1/4 rate and cut the alfalfa + fish meal in half.

 

[xmobotx]

its easy to top-dress and mulch but waiting out a hot mix can take a good while

 

[SoooHaggard]

its easy to top-dress and mulch but waiting out a hot mix can take a good while

I agree with this fully, the longer the better. I noticed after 1 month the mix is ready for transplant larger then 1gal, and after 2-3 months I can sprout seeds in the same mix with no problems!