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The myth, of the high P myth?

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
... Their formula was 8-8-20. My plants loved this formula. ... I believe high amounts of soluable potassium are much more important during bloom than phosphorus or nitrogen for that matter. My work with tropical fruit trees seems to confirm this. Just my personal opinion.

Thank you so much. You're right.

By the way there are more people who only seem to add K outdoors. In KOG's video he demonstrates using wood ash to increase bud size in flowering. And in the Strainhunters Malawi trip they ask the growers whether they use anything to fertilize their fields, and their answer is only woodash.

N = leaves
P = roots and flowers
K = fast growth

And cannabis is a very fast growing plant.

And K/woodash is a very environmentally friendly product too. It is certainly sustainable, unlike too much P.
 

supermanlives

Active member
Veteran
This year I am going to experiment with switching from high P/K throughout bloom, to high P in early flower, to high K in late flower.

KOG has a video on youtube where he feeds his outdoor plants ashes (high K) a month before harvests, which gets him bigger heads.

So maybe that is the way to go - and the answer to preventing P buildup in the soil in flowering.
i am trying this with ej line of ferts. i love ej
 
Y

YosemiteSam

Has anyone ever taken a look at Albrecht ratios. I now believe there should be a thread called the myth of the high PK
 
Y

YosemiteSam

His research is on soil. The difference would be the amount of Ca you would use...the more cec sites the more Ca is needed. A 3:1 Ca:Mg ratio works great in hydro.
 

Blaz3

Member
So what is the better ratio 0-50-30 or 0-13-14?..A.N also ahs a product called hammerhead that is bascially twice more k than p?Will this be better?
 

paperchaser825

Active member
So....

I'm high....

It's 4:20......

35l1gj.jpg


No really....what is the general consensus on this now? 3-2-1 Jacks? Still Maxibloom? Was it a myth after all?

talk-amongst-yourselves.jpg
 
In my opinion.... You only need to dilute this formula to achieve maximum results in all stages of growth. If you want to change this formula I would suggest that you lower the P and increase the Mg and Zn. That's it . Guaranteed to blow away most nutrient formulas out there. If you use this formula with all of the other environmental conditions correct and a decent strain you will achieve that 2-3 gpw average you are looking for easily.

Disclaimer: The above information may cause you to become the best grower you know and produce yields that will forever change your opinion about high P bloom boosters.

The fact is that the high P in your solution is causing the other minerals to be out of balance. You only have so much room for the right balance of minerals when you add tons of one mineral the minerals that really count cant work properly. Just my opinion that's all so save all the nasty comments. Please. Peace!


Hoagland
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DoomsDay

Member
......annnndddddd.... What were the results ? Did it perform better worse or neutral in comparison with a standard veg/bloom recommended ratio found on a bottle?
 

jayjayfrank

Member
Veteran
i am not able to buy the quality of buds i can grow. have not seen for sale in the last 10 years at any cali dispensary.

don't know what a standard bottle recommends anymore... 100-100-200? 200-100-300? i don't know how its possible to run anything that high strength.
 

DoomsDay

Member
Good news to hear there. I've been a big advocate of the kiss method and very happy with my consistent results. Earlier in this thread it was mentioned attempting the kiss method with maxigrow instead of bloom. Lucky ol me had bags of all of the product so as of this morning a test batch has begun with kiss grow only. Ill report back when I can.
 

julkop01

New member
I'd like to offer some input:


"Tom Ericsson has analyzed plant tissues in a large number of plants, both annuals and perennials. Plants growing on poor soils, as well as plants growing on soils with both high and low pH values, have been used. Root, stem and leaf tissue was analyzed.
The analysis shows that nutrient contents vary greatly between different plants. However, the proportions remained remarkably similar.

The plants used were grown in greenhouses, provided with ample amounts of fertilizer. When such is the case, plants will absorb more than they need at the moment, building a small cache of nutrients. It was noted that when fertilizer applications were reduced, and plants were forced to absorb their actual requirement of each nutrient, the similarities became even more pronounced. As a result, it is now fairly well understood what plants need. Their uptake of nutrients is not haphazard. They are able to choose and absorb exactly what they need from soil moisture, regardless of the amounts of nutrients available.

All plant cells look the same in principle, says Tom Ericsson. They share the same basic physiological processes, such as photosynthesis and respiration. Plant nutrients are the building blocks in these systems, making the results of the analysis appear logical.
Plant tissue analysis:

Nitrogen, being the largest nutrient component, has been given the value of 100. Other nutrients are listed as a weight percentage of N.
N 100
P 13-19
K 45-80
S 6-9
Mg 5-15
Ca 5-15
Fe 0.7
Mn 0.4
B(oron) 0.2
Zn 0.06
Cu 0.03
Cl 0.03
M(olybden) 0.003

He also states:

"One objection can be made to the values in the table. Fruits, like tomatoes, contain more potassium in relation to nitrogen than what the table shows. Tom Ericsson is of the opinion that commercial growers of tomatoes, as well as other fruits and berries, may need to use extra potassium if they grow their crops in sand or other substrates that have no inherent nutrient properties. Adding potassium may increase crops. In good soil however, a fertilizer with the properties indicated in the table will be sufficient even for fruiting crops. This is especially true for hobby growers who do not need to press for maximum yields.

We need to find a fertilizer that contains all 13 nutrients, in the approximate proportions indicated in the table. This will allow for some luxury uptake by the plants.

According to Tom Ericsson plants need a fertilizer with the ratio 10:1.5:7. (NPK)

In order to compare proportional ratios of nutrients in different fertilizers, you can give nitrogen the value of 100, and then afford the ratio of the other nutrients a percentage of the nitrogen content (see chart above).

Tom Ericsson and his students have looked at the market of fertilizers offered to consumers. They have checked whether all 13 nutrients that plants need are included, and at what the ratio is. Some of the most extreme nutrient ratios were found in orchid fertilizers. Other specialty fertilizers lacked minor nutrients or did not contain any information about them. Some specialty fertilizers are formulated with ratios not suitable for any kind of plants.

After studying the findings of Tom Ericsson, one might ask what the producers of fertilizers are basing their products on. In many cases they do not reflect what we today know of plants needs. His students interviewed some of the major producers of fertilizers in Sweden, asking among other things about whether they conduct their own research on how to prepare an optimal fertilizer. They found that no such research is done and that producers "only make the products the market is asking for".


This proves that this is not rocket science but as a hobby scientist here's something that I've been playing with for a while now:

These ions need to be in balance relative to another in order to be used EFFECTIVELY by the plant. This balance is called the "exchangeable ratio":

% Ratios:
Potassium (K) - 38%
Magnesium (Mg) - 9%
Calcium (Ca) - 45%
Sodium (Na) - <5%

I haven't tried Ericssons all in one reciepe but I've made an all in one reciepe with the exchangeable ratios in mind and it has worked like a charm for me so no need to fix what's not broken =)

N 138 (NO3 128 - NH4 10)
P 32
K 128 (38%)
Ca 152 (45%)
Mg 30 (9%)
S 59
+ micros
 
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