the kush, the whole kush, and nothing but the kush.
- Thread starter TheArchitect
- Start date
Try one of those mechanic seats w wheels that come with a floor jack kit. My back couldn't survive w/o one.
Might have to invest in something like that
Welcome, and thank you. The show should get interesting here in the next few weeks.
Yea, I really want a dripper system, I just feel I'd get complacent. Also some plants are drinking quite a bit more, and while there are ways to cure that by using the correct # of drippers per pot, I still like feeling them.
My ultimate goal is beds that will have moisture and ec probes in them, which will signal a plc controlled solenoid to water the correct amount at the correct ec when needed.
Thanks, Chunky is the goal
but you'd have to understand par/ppf to get why that works.
I guess I better read more books.
Nice Tahoe.
I guess I better read more books.
Nice Tahoe.
I guess I could have at least given a layman's explanation with some more detailed links.
Basically a light gives off particles of light called photons. Photons within the 400-700nm wavelength are what plant use to fuel photosynthesis, and are referred to as PAR or photosynthetically active radiation.
It gets tricky here because par can be used two ways, but when talking about the actual energy levels we use the formula I'll explain next.
Now, the number of photons, measured in micro moles(umol), that hit a meter squared(m²) in one second(s¹) is called PAR or PPF. Photosynthetically active radiation, or photosynthetic photon flux respectively. They are interchangeable.
The number of photons, measured in moles(mol), that hit a m² in a day(d¹) is called daily light integral(DLI).
PAR=umol/m²/s¹
DLI=mol/m²/d¹
A quantum meter tells you PAR, to get DLI you multiply the par reading by the hours of light then multiply by 3600(seconds in a hour) then divide by 1,000,000.
25-30 moles seems to be a good, efficient target for high quality flowers, and tomatoes.
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ho/ho-238-w.pdf
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daily_light_integral
Thanks for stopping by.
Great post, par is incredibly important. I honestly believe gardens run lamps too low. Having a par set standard would eliminate this problem. I don't actually check it in my own garden but I do have an old apogee meter around somewhere.
I've seen a lot of people who had great quality when they where growing in single rows of lamps 2 or 3 lamps, then suffer much lower quality after doubling the lighting. I think it's because canopy width always dictates height in a single row of lamps garden and when you start cross lighting it's tempting to drop them lower.
Anyway, good tip, thanks for outlining the formula for par per m2, and most importantly your winning par numbers.
To expand on my previous post
By raising the lights, you can reduce the intensity of the infrared heat, which will increase the quality of your flowers.
There is a balance, as you need to maintain a proper DLI, and while you are raising the lights and spreading the footprints out, you're also lowering your PAR/PPF.
To get back to a good DLI you need to increase the lights on period, this works because DLI is a function of Time and intensity. Lower the intensity, raise day length.
By raising the lights, you can reduce the intensity of the infrared heat, which will increase the quality of your flowers.
There is a balance, as you need to maintain a proper DLI, and while you are raising the lights and spreading the footprints out, you're also lowering your PAR/PPF.
To get back to a good DLI you need to increase the lights on period, this works because DLI is a function of Time and intensity. Lower the intensity, raise day length.
Great thread, some great posts & info & amazing solo work TheArchitect......I'm sub'd for life...haha......Nar serious!
PLR&£
PLR&£
Excellent point! I have had some of my best runs at 30" +/- and running a 13 hour photo period. I had never put 2 & 2 together and connected the dots. I do well at 12 hours at those heights too though.
Lol, you must not know me, lol
Just bustin your balls, I was a hugely critical voice in basically all the defo threads.
I'm all about pruning, I get rid of anything I can tell isn't going to stack up and form a nice nug in the first place, instead of trying to steal the plants energy generators to try and make those scrawny suckers to produce a fatty.
That's not to say I don't pull leafs here and there, but nothing even close to what was promoted in the original thread. Usually I'll pull the lowest leafs because they are actually energy drains not producers, and the occasional large fan that is resting on a main cola. I do more leaf tucking than cutting.
Just bustin your balls, I was a hugely critical voice in basically all the defo threads.
I'm all about pruning, I get rid of anything I can tell isn't going to stack up and form a nice nug in the first place, instead of trying to steal the plants energy generators to try and make those scrawny suckers to produce a fatty.
That's not to say I don't pull leafs here and there, but nothing even close to what was promoted in the original thread. Usually I'll pull the lowest leafs because they are actually energy drains not producers, and the occasional large fan that is resting on a main cola. I do more leaf tucking than cutting.
