*The K.I.S.S. Method*

[Douglas.Curtis]

All I buy is 16 lb. tubs, usually 2 at a time....the power is still pink, not yellow here...but doesn't look pink in water.

I buy the 1Kilo bags. Just bought a new one less than a month ago and I have a question.

When I scoop up a small scoop of MaxiBloom, how many tiny blue chunks of ground up miracle grow should I include in a 1/4 scoop? My goal is to keep a consistent balance of nutrients, you know?

I'm damn sure it's ground up Miracle-Grow, Maxi never had blue bits in it before.

 

[Bwanabud]

I buy the 1Kilo bags. Just bought a new one less than a month ago and I have a question.

When I scoop up a small scoop of MaxiBloom, how many tiny blue chunks of ground up miracle grow should I include in a 1/4 scoop? My goal is to keep a consistent balance of nutrients, you know?

I'm damn sure it's ground up Miracle-Grow, Maxi never had blue bits in it before.

I refuse to use the Blue chunks in my rez, I think it's Oxi-Clean...so I save all the Blue Chunks in a separate container, and after 2 years or so I have enough to wash my concrete porch

 

[Hold Your Fire]

I've been using Jack's Bloom Booster 10-30-20 as a stand alone one part, in veg right thru till flush in bloom for a couple years now with excellent results. 1/4 teaspoon per gallon when using Happy Frog soil and 1/2 teaspoon per gallon with Pro Mix BX.

Too cheap and easy to not try at least once!

 

[ReeferDan]

Have read this whole thread, twice.
Once a few years ago, and recommended this method to a friend growing outdoors, he had great success.
Have sort of always tried to follow the lucas formula in one way or another through my years of hydro, FNB, 8/16, sometimes just as a base, with some other GH boosters, sometimes just strict lucas.

Currently i have a new garden ( check my gallery or my thread) running KISS maxibloom. I go into more detail there, but figured i would share some pics of my plants, and hopefully remember to come back and update with bud shots as they develop.

Remember folks KISS maxibloom is 7g/gal of water. I use about 1/2 tsp/gal of protek mixed in first, then just dump the weighed out amount of dry maxi into my res. no hot water shaking, this is 20-40gal at a time, it mixes fine. Works out to about 1.7ec for me.
Since im running OG Kush, im trying to get the most out of her, and shes a mag hungry beast, so i give a little bit extra epsom salts, and 2-3ml/gal of liquid kool bloom in flower at the moment which works out to 2.0-2.1 ec for me. Good clean hetch hetchy tap water.

my grow if you are interested: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=352817

Thanks for all the help in this thread... Remember keep it simple stoner, this feed technique is supposed to take the guess work out of nutes, give you a very well rounded, cost effective base to start out with if you want to run it strict, or tinker a bit, and really take the question of nutes out of the equation while you play with other more important elements in the room, such as light height/intensity, grow room temp/humidity/vpd, and c02 levels.

Plants... newest shots are 14-15 days of flower.

This is about the point i started feeding full strength, and most mag def signs went away, plants got healthier and happier. Dont be afraid to hit 7g/gal once plants are rooted, they will eat it up!

day 1 flower

day 8 flower

day 14

will update later when i have some more mature buds to show off!

 

[ReeferDan]

OG Kush

day 42

day 35

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Nice looking flowers, though personally they look overfed. You can run significantly less nutrient strength, when you make sure the plant has a full and healthy pH swing in the root zone.


The swing in the root zone from 5.4'ish to 6.0'ish allows all elements to be easily absorbed as their 'range' goes by in pH. The more balanced the nutrient profile you're using, the less overfeeding of individual or multiple elements happens, the less nutrient you need to spend for, and a side result is your quality goes up significantly.

 

[ReeferDan]

Nice looking flowers, though personally they look overfed. You can run significantly less nutrient strength, when you make sure the plant has a full and healthy pH swing in the root zone.


The swing in the root zone from 5.4'ish to 6.0'ish allows all elements to be easily absorbed as their 'range' goes by in pH. The more balanced the nutrient profile you're using, the less overfeeding of individual or multiple elements happens, the less nutrient you need to spend for, and a side result is your quality goes up significantly.

You have mentioned this overfert before... what exactly are you seeing?
Too green? Tip burn? Specifics other than the color the pics came out at off of my phone?
Curious to have you elaborate.
KISS is 7g/gal can’t really mess that up lol

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

You have mentioned this overfert before... what exactly are you seeing?
Too green? Tip burn? Specifics other than the color the pics came out at off of my phone?
Curious to have you elaborate.
KISS is 7g/gal can’t really mess that up lol

I'm seeing VERY dark leaves, which has never (in my experience) produced quality cannabis. 7g/gallon is actually very strong for most strains of cannabis.



Cannabis is excellent at using enough nutrients to destroy quality, while still growing and looking 'ok.'


Edit: Here's a shot of the color I'm talking about. This is around 740ppm, since I shoot for 750ppm max for almost all strains.

 

[Switcher56]

... hum! 1 tsp = 5ml. 1ml = 1g. Therefore, 7g /= 1 tsp. Metric system is so simple once you get accustomed to it. It keeps things simple.

I started at the beginning. Went to the article and why doesn't it surprise me (GH promotion) so, I am not interested in reading the entire thread (3720 posts) but, yes the 2 measurements do not equate. If it is 7g, then by all means weigh vice measure, or use 1.2tsp but, then you are guessing at the "0.2tsp".

What I found amusing, the thread was started in 2010 but the article is dated 2015.

In closing, IMHO it is important to know "ALL" the conversion factors that we use to grow our plants KISS and continue to do what is working for you

PS: When nute companies use the gallon measure, they are stating a USG = 128oz vice an imperial gallon = 160oz. Took their chart and converted to "totally metric" e.g GH or GO state ml/gal. When using ml, simply take their recommended feed and divide by 3.8, as there is 3.8l per 1 USG 4.54l to an imperial gal.

 

[Bwanabud]

I weigh mine out, and don't trust the tsp/tblsp system with my rez size....7 grams is almost 1000ppm, waaay to high

 

[Switcher56]

I weigh mine out, and don't trust the tsp/tblsp system with my rez size....7 grams is almost 1000ppm, waaay to high

I use a lab pipette (recycled from a previous use). Then again, if the mfr gives a weight vice a measurement, use scale they recommend

 

[ReeferDan]

I'm seeing VERY dark leaves, which has never (in my experience) produced quality cannabis. 7g/gallon is actually very strong for most strains of cannabis.



Cannabis is excellent at using enough nutrients to destroy quality, while still growing and looking 'ok.'


Edit: Here's a shot of the color I'm talking about. This is around 740ppm, since I shoot for 750ppm max for almost all strains.

To each his own I guess
Like I said in our pm, hard to get exact color of plants with an auto adjusting phone under a 2750k spectrum
I have some videos of the plants where they range in color depending on how the phones camera is balancing out the light... sometimes the background looks white sometimes it looks orange depending on where I’m at and the angle I hold it.

Either way they are getting a light feeding next week and then a two week flush so i’ll See how much I can get the leaves to yellow by the end, deff not going for lush green to the day of harvest, and I never feed hard to the end.
Pic for pic my plants are darker green than yours, I’m happy with how they look, grow and produce. Lots of factors come into play here unless we take the same cut from the same mom and I feed at 1000ppm and you at 750. Strain to strain leaves and plants will show different and eat different.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Strain to strain leaves and plants will show different and eat different.

Yes, but it's not your camera or lighting. You're feeding 1000ppm and it's definitely too much for them. I've run many strains over the last 16 years, and I don't recall a single one looking great at those levels of feed. I'm sure there are cropper strains which can handle 1000ppm, and use it all properly, I simply haven't seen them.


Definitely read up on hyper/dynamic accumulator plants. It explains why you really want a balanced nutrient profile, full pH swing and as little nutrients in the root zone as possible.

 

[ReeferDan]

Yes, but it's not your camera or lighting. You're feeding 1000ppm and it's definitely too much for them. I've run many strains over the last 16 years, and I don't recall a single one looking great at those levels of feed. I'm sure there are cropper strains which can handle 1000ppm, and use it all properly, I simply haven't seen them.


Definitely read up on hyper/dynamic accumulator plants. It explains why you really want a balanced nutrient profile, full pH swing and as little nutrients in the root zone as possible.

Are you running kiss maxibloom? If so at 750ppm max?
Care to share any pictures of your flowers throughout your grow cycle of any of the 16 years of strains?
Feel free to add to the thread any kiss maxibloom experience/flowers/pictures... this thread really lacks many pictures outside veg, all I’m trying to add to the mix

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I ran MaxiBloom for years, and I cut back from 7g within the first year of using it. The pic I posted is 8:16 GH Flora at around 740ppm. Maxibloom is very close to the 8:16 Flora mix. FloraNova Bloom is the same, flowered at less than 750ppm. You'll find a growing number of top notch growers who will tell you the same, 750ppm is about max, regardless of what nutrient you're using. The only time you'd exceed it is when you're running a sealed room, CO2 and a LOT of light.

All my plants look pretty much the same, only the slight green shade differences you'd expect from different phenos or strains. The pic on the last page is an excellent example of what all my grows look like.

I started growing in Nevada 16 years ago. It was a time when you could be sentenced to a year in jail for a seed... on the floor of a rental car. So, even though I've lived in 'legal' states for almost 10 years now, I still don't take many pictures. I'm working on changing that.

I agree, the thread needs more pictures. I'd really like to see someone do 2 clones of the same plant, under the same light. One gets 7g/gallon and the other gets what's appropriate for the strain/light combination.

 

[Dr.Young]

Best thing ive seen is people saying find your max with maxibloom somewhere around 1.2-1.3 ec {That way you get calmag covered with the base}. THEN after you find the balance between underfed\burn You gently add in some koolbloom for another 100-250 ppm {hitting up around 1.6-1.8ish}.. The lower the maxibloom base you can use the more room you leave for koolbloom.

 

[Bwanabud]

Best thing ive seen is people saying find your max with maxibloom somewhere around 1.2-1.3 ec {That way you get calmag covered with the base}. THEN after you find the balance between underfed\burn You gently add in some koolbloom for another 100-200 ppm. Maxing around 1.2-1.3 ec with just maxibloom being fine, but just a touch of koolbloom to really chunk things up. The lower the base you can use the more room you leave for koolbloom.

Interesting, I've never heard that method before...makes sense.

 

[JJ Lowe]

Anyone used dosatrons with maxi?

 

[Richkuewe]

hey guys,
im new here and have a questions that might got answered already but i would appreciate it if someone could answer me. (sry for my basic english skills)

i have 2 bags of MaxiGRO and MaxiBLOOM and want to use it on my aeroflo 40 (its a recirculating system) with only OSMOSIS Water! i usually start with cutlings in rockwool cubes and insert them into the aeroflo 40. I know K.I.S.S. is about to only use MB but i already bought both of them

- how much EC or PPM should my OSMOSIS water have with only use of MAXIGRO?
(cuttlings are about 6-8 inches (~20cm))
so whats the minimum ppm/EC i should go for to not have deficities in CAL & MAG?
start with 1.0 EC? or should i start lower at around 0.5 at the beginning?

i usually control the nutes with my EC meter so when it drops i add more nutes, when it rises i add water but most of the time i have troubles at the beginning and small cuttlings so i dont want to kill them with underfeed/overfeed

thanks for the answer , greets from europe

 

[stoned40yrs]

1.0ec of maxigrow works great with cuttings, increase to 1.1-1.2 for larger veg plants. With osmosis water you may get a mag deficiency so you should add either epsom salt or a cal-mag supplement. Fuck one part maxibloom kiss, using a mix of maxigrow and maxibloom is just as simple and is BETTER for your plants. Using only maxibloom always makes my plants yellow up way too early. I feed by ec and don't give a fuck what the recipe calls for in weight. I think it's insane to go above 1.4ec with any nutes if you aren't using co2. First two weeks of bloom I use 50/50 maxigrow and maxibloom. weeks 4,5 and 6 it's 25% maxigrow and 75% maxibloom. week 7 is all maxibloom and 8 and 9 is water only. I never go above 1.3ec. Don't lock yourself into this 7 grams maxibloom shit, it ain't the best and it's just as easy using maxigrow and maxibloom together for better results.