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*The K.I.S.S. Method*

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I'm growing in potting soil & perlite. Should I still look @ Hempy buckets? This is my first clone. All my other grows have been from seed. I'm open to any and all suggestions. :tiphat: :thank you:
OK I just did a search and found.. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=98419&highlight=Hempy+buckets Full of all kinds of interesting stuff. May try that next go around. But for the time being I plan on feeding every other watering. Sound right? Thanks again.

Hempy buckets with coco will triple or quadruple the yield you will get in soil. And it's simple and foolproof. Impossible to over water. Hit them every day with solution until run off, and you will get hydro growth without the hassles. Works great with the KISS method. In fact I think they go together perfectly. Add vertical lighting, and you are state of the art. Very easy method for beginners or experts. Check the Hempy bucket thread, and Hempy's own thread, Hempy buckets with coco.
 

Yuno.Who

Active member
Coco Hempy Buckets are the way to go for sure. Explosive growth like hydro but the ease of soil. Just make sure you water lightly for a week or so until the roots grow into that reservoir, you dont want root rot. Once the roots hit...you'll know. And that along with the MB is as easy as it gets. Throw in some blumats and its set it and forget it.
 

Rob547

East Coast Grower
Veteran
Hey everyone. New KISS user here.
First off I would like to thank everyone here for their input and keeping this thread going and all the info.

I do have a quick question for anyone that can share their thoughts. Have a few plants in 5 gallon pots outdoors, been using it at the recommended dosage or a little less so far through veg. The results have been great, even after reading through a lot of this thread, I was still pretty impressed.

They have just started flowering, just about a week ago. My question is this: Since they are now flowering, and seem to have pretty high N content (dark green leaves on top) do I just keep giving them the maxibloom even with the 5 N rating? Will it balance out and still do it's thing? Its not so much I'm worried about it, just looking for best results. Otherwise I would be giving them a flower booster, 0-50-30. Thanks for any comments.
:thank you:
 

cheeched

Member
Most peeps (including myself) have used it all the way through, with good results..Some supplement with a bloom booster others don't..FWIW, I saw no difference with or W/O a booster..YMMV of course..
I did supplement with some Floralacious plus occasionally..But again, with K.I.S.S, not sure it's even needed..I've since moved on to other dry ferts..Jackpeters ATM..I may try that new stuff, Veg+Bloom or whatever, maybe..
Good luck!..
 
Z

Ziggaro

Hey guys I know a lot of you have success with full strength in your medium, but just wanted to share one of lucas's posts for the soil/soilless growers about nutrient strenghts.



> is there anything you would do different if watering a soilless medium? (peat moss/perlite)

my first answer is No

Nutes accumulate in a pot of peatmoss and perlite, every time the medium dries out. Especially if full strength nutes are used for every irrigation.

peatmoss and perlite growers learned early on not to feed daily, instead they feed weekly at full strength, or daily at quarter strength. Or they feed full strength for a while, and as the plants get unhappy, the grower "flushes" the peatmoss and perlite.

Nutes dont get eaten by the plant, they stay in the peatmoss and perlite, when the water evaporates, therefore, a peatmoss and perlite grower must keep track of the actual TDS in the root zone, as it builds up over time.

These comments apply to any dense medium, not just peatmoss and perlite.

The reason there is such a strong belief in "flushing" to produce quality end product, is because of the history of peatmoss and perlite growing having the problem of nutes accumulations.
 

Blaz3

Member
Will Maxibloom perform BETTER with the addition of liquid koolbloom in early flower,then dry towards the end?..anybody here notice a difference in yield of dry flowers?

I will go with the maxibloom in my future grows..using blumats,pro tekt..shooting powder,etc...2x1000 in a 4x8 tent,critical mass strain.
 

dalilguy

Member
Any maxi users running well water?

on another note.. i know a few of you use a silica product..

qEIPWl.jpg


M3ccll.jpg


i add the silica first then ph that down prior to adding the maxi.. not sure why it got funky? doesn't smell bad atleast.

using the bloom silica.

and this is with city water not the well-water im asking about.

thanks! :tiphat:
 

Yuno.Who

Active member
Bloom silica? The yellow bottles? thats a really nice line man. crazy expensive but I've seen growers who were clueless to what they were doing end up with outstanding results using that line...15k worth of nutes late but they had good results. Not sure whats going on in your res though....never seen that happen..was the silica liquid clear to begin with?
 

dalilguy

Member
Not to bad at 40 a liter. At 1ml per 3 liter it should last a Lil while I hope :joint:

Yes it's crystal clear. The ec or ph didn't fluctuate either when I found the tank like that. I mixed it all up an the next day it wasn't as present anymore. Only product I am using from the yellow bottles is the silica. They are some good fellas tho but like u say. Expensive. :tiphat:
 

Blaz3

Member
Is maxiseries ALONE good enough to build huge colas?...will it benefit greatly in the addition of liquid koolbloom..followed by dry koolbloom?
 

Yuno.Who

Active member
Yeah man, that nutrient line really does make any a-hole a dank producer. I've seen it way too many times from buddies of mine, they have a 9th grade education level, have no knowledge of why they do the things they do, or how plant life actually works, but they read guys like us and mimic setups, and listen to what the guy at the hydro store tells them to buy and 15k later they got themselves a few lbs of dank.

Very expensive...but its does the trick.

For a cheaper and equally effective route...I use silica blast, or protekt, Ive heard rhino skin is good as well. but glad to hear everything has cleared up for ya.
 

dalilguy

Member
Well I use to run silicablast till a bottle went bad on me. Switched to protekt. Both at 5ml a gal at about 30$ a gal it makes me 8 tanks. The bloom makes me 8 tanks also. Takes up less space. Less to measure out and I haven't had a bottle go bad on me yet. 10$ difference.. I'll take it.

Mixed up another tank we'll see how it goes. Never had that happen with the canna but it seems to still work fine. :tiphat:
 

señorsloth

Senior Member
Veteran
here are a few pics of my perpetual, i run one scoop per gallon of maxibloom every 3 days for the first 4 weeks, then 2 weeks of one scoop of maxi and half a scoop of koolbloom every 3 days, then i run plain water for 2 weeks and harvest, so i'm basically running the kiss method, i have been using it almost 2 years now and just recently started using koolbloom about 6 weeks ago, it really seems to add to the frostyness and smell of my buds!
 

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Blaz3

Member
SenorSloth,great plants brother!Do you notice a significant inprovement in YIELDS..flower mass?..or just the resin/terpene profile?
 

señorsloth

Senior Member
Veteran
Is maxiseries ALONE good enough to build huge colas?...will it benefit greatly in the addition of liquid koolbloom..followed by dry koolbloom?
yes maxi bloom alone will give you just as good a yields as most other ferts, adding koolbloom seems to boost that even more, to a point i am not sure you could outdo with any brand of fertilizer(most are basically the same, in an expensive bottle). yield is 90% genetics though so if yields all you care about i would suggest looking at strains that yeild well not any kinda magic fert that will make a plant yield more than it's genetic code allows it too. and NO you don't want to use liquid koolbloom with the dry koolbloom at the same time, or with maxi bloom i don't think, just dry maxi and dry koolbloom.

it's really hard for me to say how much yield was added by koolbloom, because when i added koolbloom i also went from a POS cooltube to a nice sun system blazer hood. that means the hood probably contributed to the gains i have been seeing just as much as the koolbloom but there is no real way to test that except to stop using koolbloom for a round and see if quality drops, i'm not willing to do that so i guess i'll just never know.

i did see 10-20% increase in yeilds, at least 10% more sugar, and almost double the smell/taste...i am pretty sure the koolbloom had more to do with these increases than the light...either way i'm solidly convinced that it works, i have a several year supply, so i'm gonna keep doing it as long as i can!

i am seeming to have more and more problems mixing in this maxibloom though, it's the worst part of growing for me, shaking the damn jar of almost boiling hot water for 15 minutes only to find 1/3 of the powder is just settling on the bottom...the liquid version of lucas looks better and better...i was gonna buy a scientific mixer but they are like 80 bucks, for that price i could get a years worth of liquid GH ferts or 4 cheepass blenders and just mix it with one of those, but they are so loud, and my shaking doesn't seem to do any good so i am not sure anything else would help, i am almost wondering if the age of mine has something to do with it, i bought my bag about 1.5 years ago so it's a little old...
 

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Shafto

Active member
i am seeming to have more and more problems mixing in this maxibloom though, it's the worst part of growing for me, shaking the damn jar of almost boiling hot water for 15 minutes only to find 1/3 of the powder is just settling on the bottom...the liquid version of lucas looks better and better...i was gonna buy a scientific mixer but they are like 80 bucks, for that price i could get a years worth of liquid GH ferts or 4 cheepass blenders and just mix it with one of those, but they are so loud, and my shaking doesn't seem to do any good so i am not sure anything else would help, i am almost wondering if the age of mine has something to do with it, i bought my bag about 1.5 years ago so it's a little old...

You should never mix dry single part nutrients into a liquid concentrate.

The bonds that keep the phosphorus, calcium, and sulphur from reacting with each other dissolve away in the water, and then these items react and create cement and drywall that sinks to the bottom of the jar. This is what you are seeing on the bottom, a huge amount of precipitation.

It is much easier to just sprinkle the powder into your res and stir, it dissolves quite easily and because it is not super concentrated the phosphorus, calcium, and sulphur don't react with each other, and are available to the plants.

If you look on the GH Maxi feed chart it says somewhere not to pre-mix. I'm very surprised it doesn't say somewhere on the tubs and packs in large writing, "DO NOT PRE-MIX!". I pre-mixed when I first used it, and I think many do, but it's a costly mistake.

Prepare for some easier growing with better results S.Sloth. Ditch that jar of boiling water!

P.S. Some nice nugs you have there already.
 

dalilguy

Member
I use to do the same. Mix in a jar an dump into the rez an it never went well. I didn't use boiling water just tap which comes out around 78-82. Now i just spread the maxi over the Rez and stir a bit. Let the circulation pump handle the rest an always end up with a clear pink pool :tiphat:
 

señorsloth

Senior Member
Veteran
You should never mix dry single part nutrients into a liquid concentrate.

The bonds that keep the phosphorus, calcium, and sulphur from reacting with each other dissolve away in the hot water, and then these items react and create cement and drywall that sinks to the bottom of the jar. This is what you are seeing on the bottom, a huge amount of precipitation.

It is much easier to just sprinkle the powder into your res and stir, it dissolves quite easily and because it is not super concentrated the phosphorus, calcium, and sulphur don't react with each other, and are available to the plants.

If you look on the GH Maxi feed chart it says somewhere not to pre-mix. I'm very surprised it doesn't say somewhere on the tubs and packs in large writing, "DO NOT PRE-MIX!". I pre-mixed when I first used it, and I think many do, but it's a costly mistake.
trust me, i'm not saying you are wrong, because frankly what you are saying makes a lot of sense...however i wonder if you have read any of the last 150 pages of this thread?!?! i have been gradually heating the water in my mixing jar more and more as i perceive the mixing to be harder and harder, it could very well be that the cause was my own, by mixing the water hotter i was making it harder to mix...

this thread is several years old and the way they tell you to do it is to mix it in a jar of hot water, then add to a gallon of cold water...so that is how i have always done it...i think the reasoning is it dissolves better at high temps, but you can't mix the whole gallon at the high temp or when you go to pour it on your plants it wont have any oxygen in it, so you add the small jar of hot dissolved nutrients to the gallon of cold oxygen rich water, and you get it all...according to the theory anyway...

so you are saying this way we have ALL been using for so long is wrong? and i would actually be better off mixing it directly into the gallon of cold water? i suppose i could test this by just mixing up my normal jar but using cold water instead of hot water to see if i still get the precipitates...i'm gonna go test this right now but if you are right then we need to make some major changes to this thread, because it's instructions have apparently caused thousands of wasted hours of members shaking jars of hot water for no reason at all...
 

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