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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Backyard Farmer

Active member
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http://envirotechgreenhouse.com/breathable-blackout-fabric

That is the fabric I am going to be using in my green house to black out.

The end walls will be corrugated steel.

I am doing it in a steel frame green house with roll up side and a ridge vent with 13K CFM exhaust , 10K CFM intake and 25000+CFM of Horizontal Air Flow fans.

What kind of dehumidifier are you guys using? I have a couple Dri Eaz LGR3500 units and really like them.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Other thoughts. Longest day of the year is June 21st, so Pulling a tarp on June 1st gets your plants 6 weeks of the most sunlight of the year during their budding cycle and frees up that greenhouse/space to replant on or before Aug. 1st. Once you get that second crop in, you really only have to pull a tarp for 2 weeks, because by Aug 14th something pushed into budding isn't reVegging. That gives you some leeway with dealing with mold/wetness when it counts in late Aug. and Sept.

Peace

Not sure I am following...day 1 is June 1? Are you talking 7-8 weeks flowering time?

Also can you speak to air movement/active dehumdification of the space? I live on the edge of a desert so day time humidity is nil but there is always a 20-25 degree temp drop at night which I fear will be a problem...maybe solved if I can completely remove the tarp at night.
 

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
im planning on taking my clear plastic off in june when it starts heating up. and taking my tarp off around 10 pm to deal with my night humidity. I live next to a river I hope its not an issue. mostly sour d in my deps, plugged into beds april 1st then and start pulling tarp between the 3rd week of april and may 1st. im excited about this dep! thanks for the insight Horsemouth
 

HorseMouth

Active member
Milky Joe,

If Day 1 is June 1st, then 7 to 8 weeks flower take you to the end of July. I was just commenting that in that flower cycle you are getting the 6 weeks of the most sun of the year, Sandwiched around June 21st.

I cannot stress how much practice and observation will help you in perfecting your light dep. Try practice pulling and going in and out, and testing humidity at night and dawn.

Oh, and DO NOT WATER before you pull your tarp at night. Always water in the morning when it comes to Black Box. You are just asking for trouble if you dump 200 gallons of water into your beds, then pull a plastic tarp, breathable or not for the night.

Peace
 
as a purer measure of efficiency in the light dep would yield per sq.ft. of space. what would be the footprint per plant you are shooting for? also, has anyone used with success the 730nm far-red spectrum lights to induce flowering instead of tarp pulling?
 

tommy1984

Member
tommy something that grows/yields like BD but produces quality like a headband is what we are all looking for! I've seen some promising plants out of OG hybrids from various breeders, seed vigor is important when growing lower yielding, less vigorous clone only OG cuts. plus if you're on the east coast usually means you have a shorter flower time so a 70 day chemdawg OG hybrid is not gonna finish properly. maybe try the master/bubba kush family they usually finish pretty early, aeroG is in maine and is able to harvest his LVPK (purple kush but very similar to bubba) before the snow and hit 2 lb per pot usually.

What about Green Crack? Ive heard its an early finisher, Any one have any ideas on the yield and quality? Or any other strains available in seeds (cant get clones out east) that yields well but with sour kush aka headband quality? I hope I dont have issues finishing the BD in KY..
 
C

Cep

Green Crack was looking done mid Oct at 45 latitude. I only picked up the cuts because I expected a late September finish. It is super quick inside, just triggers late out. Blue dream is usually chopped mid Oct into November. I ran it once and pulled it on the 25th of Oct but this was a once in a lifetime outdoor season with crazy good weather (2012 Oregon). It will be difficult for you to finish it properly if the weather goes south in the fall.
 

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
my green cracks finished mid oct last season, 5lb average no problems. I think I could of got more but they weren't healthy when planted and didn't start blowin up till late july. im trying a few again this year, my people loved it.
 

Bulldog420

Active member
Veteran
I bought a couple Green Crack hybrids from Bohdi, looking forward to those. The male he used should bring down the flowering time. Green Lotus is the name of the strain, I am excited for that strain this year.
 
C

Cep

I'd be surprised if it decreased the actual flowering time of green crack. You'll probably find that some individuals will initiate flowering earlier, but it'll be all over the board. Probably finish times between early to mid october within the pack. Green crack though, that smell…
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
i love green crack lol...the brand name of it is played out tough and is usually associated with all the machine trimmed popcorn green crack packs that are around. most of my tops went to one place and they renamed everything "halloween skunk" or "super skunk" and it was very popular. i remember being at the IC cup a few years back and every single person had OG and cookies and that was about it, when a friend broke out some random indoor green crack it was actually refreshing to see!

i took a few tops in early october but she truly finishes in mid oct and will get a nice purple tint in cold temps. the hand trimmed tops look great and can compete with most OD strains in terms of bag appeal, lots of frost, bright green with purple tint and strong smell. however i through all the B nugs into the trim pro and they came out real commercial looking like a lot of the typical commercial premo crack out there. was great for making hash!
 

theJointedOne

Well-known member
Veteran
most of butte county runs off GC,

Good times and Blue knight are the rage in the concow area it seems but the GC will never fade out.

SuperSkunk, heck yea, it is a super skunk!
 

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I ran 3 very small OD Green Crack plants this year.....shit it tight and potent. We will be running it in the greenhouse's this year.
 

Bo Hasset

Active member
Let's start with sun. This last season I purchased a tool for analyzing the sun different gardens were receiving. It's called the SunEye and is really an amazing tool.

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Here's the fisheye shot it took of my garden:

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Then, within seconds, it generates this view:

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With a touch of a button, it throws out this graph:

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…and, for contrast, here’s a buddy’s place:

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Right now we’re benchmarking with this tool, but I’ve been telling people that if their sun is 50% or more then it should be good. This information can also be read as to when you need to harvest by. We had a large plant not do too well (still 6.75 lbs) because the light dropped off in late October / early November when it needed it to finish properly. I’ve also shot gardens with big plants that, apparently, didn’t get too much sun, but the SunEye told a different story and explained how this novice grower could be doing so well. You can also remove obstructions (like trees) and find out exactly how much sun you'll gain before ever taking one out. I've saved many a tree by showing the gardener how little sun it would gain...also dropped a couple!

I just picked up one of those properties in our area they like to describe as "privately secluded and lots of shade!" or more simply put, a lot of fucking trees.

(x2) 96x36 Greenhouses and a (x1) roughly 72x48 fenced full-term patch need to be installed like yesterday along with tree removal. And that doesn't include my veggies patches yet (priorities, people).

Definitely been trying to research options like these. However, due either to the fact that I've gone full retard, or I'm just not up to snuff on technology jargon and as a C student in Physics who never really internalized what half of these solar terms mean in actual application I'm having a rough time of finding other options (cheaper) to compare with the Sun Eye 110 (which I think is the same as butte's model).

They're running a cool 1K right now thru the wholesaler and if it comes down to it, then that's what I'll have to buy, but with new properties come new dirt, new bags, new equipment, labor costs and at least a 2,000 ct bottle of Motrin for the headache (or maybe it's the back ache) of it all. Which means, if I can save $1,000 when there's another product that does the essentials and can be relied upon, then I'd like to do that.

The greenhouses are really for light deps strictly, so I'd love to see a printout like butte's friend's place showed and would prefer not to waste any more chainsaw/tractor hours than needed.

If anyone out there has experience with a good spot to pickup this kind of equipment used or different software or hardware that can serve the same function, then I'd love to hear about it. And talk me through it like I'm Corky from 'Life Goes On'. I'm feeling stupider by the day with all the work that's being done and then the realization at the end of every day that I could use more hours in the day to do it.

Thanks.
 

Dreambig

Member
This is a soil test that I recently had done on my pots from last year. I'm thinkin If I top dress with straw then put compost and earth worm castings on top then another layer of straw I should be good. What do you guys think?
 

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C

Cep

Sacrifice your first born to the iPhone. I downloaded that app but haven't messed with it yet.

@Dreambig

Is the CEC on the next page of the report? You're probably low in other micronutrients besides those listed. Get some azomite or other rock dust to fix that.
 
Hi Jenn,

I've played with a lot of different soil recipes over the years, 1rst year new soil mixes, as well as yearly additives. Here's a very simple mix that is well proven and I am comfortable recommending for those large outdoor containers. It gives about 50 cubic feet or just over 300 gallons (dry U.S), and fills a 6ft diameter container to a depth of about 18inches - perfectly.

25 bags black gold potting soil (1.5cf ea)

4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf ea)

1 bag perlite (4 cf ea)

1 bag (50 lbs) bonemeal (steamed, not precipitated)

1/2 bag gypsum (aprox 1/2 cf) - Edit -> 1/2 of a 40 lb bag (20lbs).

Mix well, water thoroughly, let rest for 2-3 weeks minimum, transplant, and stand back :)

Best Regards,

Tom

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Does anyone know if topsoil would be okay to replace the potting soil in this recipe?
 
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