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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Stank J.P.

Stank J.P.

Member
bamboogardner said:
Hey Furry. Can you explain the chemdawg problem you had and how did it produce? Thanks.
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I am not furry but, I can say the chemdawg d I ran last year and started late (early july) blew the fuck up and developed some serious roots. It was real dank and seemed quite vigorous too. If I can't get some good beans I'll most likely run chem d and blue dreamers.
 
Rising Moon

Rising Moon

Member
Ive got a bunch of seeds to pop this season, but still thinking what to grow...

Caveman OG x Stardawg
Riddler OG x Stardawg
Chem 4 x Gogi OG
Sunshine Daydream x Gogi OG
Afghan Kush x Gogi OG
Platinum Dawg x Polar Dawg
Blueberry Sativa x Lucky Charms
Jabbas Stash (pre 98 bubba x snow lotus)

Plus cuts of Sour D, SFV OG, Headband, Chem 4, original OG, Black Afghan....
 
furrywall11

furrywall11

Member
Rising Moon said:
Chem 4 gets brown/gold after a few months in storage...

Some people dont dig that. But she is a hell of a yielder...and smells like greasy rotten chicken sorta...
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Greasy rotten chicken..... hmmm... I had said my mine smells like lemon pledge and butter... but, I think greasy chicken and lemon pledge might be just as good a description.. haha...

My Chem#4's were huge 6-7# with tons of little buds for hashmaking.... easy to grow, too. After three and a half months the buds are showing a little goldening and my blueberry OG does not. I feel like if I had cared for my chem#4s a little better they would have produced more crystal, density and, been more defined to the point of putting it in a class all of it's own.... so, I'm probably just going to grow one this year to see if I can do that.
 
P

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
lol its an east coast thang!! mine has that dirty baby diaper smell I love it! having jars of a little everything is where its at though. anybody else like or heard of the jaeger?
 
Double F

Double F

Member
has anyone ever used octa bubblers outdoors? they work great indoors, wondering if a 80gph head would work nicely on a 300 gallon smart pot. its basically 10gph per 1/4inch dripper, with 8 drippers arranged in a star of david, watered 30 minutes so putting 40 gallons on each pot per watering.
 
Stank J.P.

Stank J.P.

Member
Madjag turned me on to a place called Logan Labs that I sent mine in and am awaiting the results. $25 for a basic test, they seem friendly and fast. TY Madjag.
 
C

Cep

For those of you that amend soil based on a spring analysis: What do you feel are adequate numbers for N in ppm?

The native soil at my spot had base values between 2-5ppm. After incorporating chicken shit and feather meal two seasons ago and a bunch of spent coffee and soy bean meal this season, the numbers rose to 150-200ppm. In my opinion this is probably more than is needed (50 is probably enough). I have access to a bunch of hemlock/fir mulch and am thinking of incorporating it in order to bring N down, add soil volume and water retention. Thoughts?
 
M

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
100 ppm is the number I am shooting for. But it depends on how well your microbiology are working also. If you have bacteria that can fix N from the atmosphere and then nematodes, protozoa, etc you could probably get by with 50.

It always scares me a little to incorporate stuff that I know is going to consume N. Go easy if you do it...Mg can fix a little too much N but it would be tough to chase a soil that is consuming N as fast as you can feed it.
 
bamboogardner

bamboogardner

Active member
I ended up using Dr. Goodearth for my soil test @ www.drgoodearth.com I had to pay $47.95 for a complete analysis, but more important they could get it to me in a few days. The others were backed up and said it may be a few weeks or more. Here is their spiel on the test I chose.

The Complete Soil Test provides complete analysis for plant nutrients and soil conditions. It measures soil pH (acidity/alkalinity), percent organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium and the secondary and micronutrients; sulfur, iron, zinc, manganese, copper and boron. It also evaluates soil texture and classifies the soil by percent sand, silt and clay into one of the 12 soil types (i.e. silty loam, clay loam, sandy clay etc.) The textural analysis will provide information on how to amend the soil to gain better drainage, aeration and root development PLUS some tips on how to fertilize the soil. We recommend this test for new landscapes, buying topsoil and when diagnosing a relentless plant problem when all else has failed.

By getting the results quicker, I can amend the soil and let it cook for a month or two before the girls go in, which I thought was important. Hit it with tea a few times and it should be ready to go.
 
Backyard Farmer

Backyard Farmer

Active member
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There's no reason to cook anything because it takes roots with biology on them to break down organic nutrients. It's important to just get the cation and anion sites built right. If you're really worried about the soil being too hot you can putt a buffer of potting soil around your transplant when you plug in.

I've mixed up toms mix at half strength planted the next day without a buffer and grown 5 LB plants. Done full strength tom hill mix with a buffer planted day after mixing and had similar size plants just less fertilizing needed in late summer. Also done my own mix I'm using now and immediately planted in it.

Letting soil cook is a grow myth
 
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