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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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BongRipkenJR.

Active member
Its actually not too bad of a proposal at a glance. It does go towards the legitimacy of MMJ. 300 sqf is an okay canopy size. Even with that I wouldn't have to work. I think they looked at what people could actually make off of an area that big. Even at $2500 per pack indoor, you could still make 20-40k+ every 60-80 days. 300 sqf could be a 20x15 canopy. That would be something like 18 4x4 trays running 1k each tray. At even 1# a tray that would be 18#s. Now someone who could dial that in could double that. That is a decent living. Not to mention all the concentrates that come with it.
 
E

Eatatjoes

Its actually not too bad of a proposal at a glance. It does go towards the legitimacy of MMJ. 300 sqf is an okay canopy size. Even with that I wouldn't have to work. I think they looked at what people could actually make off of an area that big. Even at $2500 per pack indoor, you could still make 20-40k+ every 60-80 days. 300 sqf could be a 20x15 canopy. That would be something like 18 4x4 trays running 1k each tray. At even 1# a tray that would be 18#s. Now someone who could dial that in could double that. That is a decent living. Not to mention all the concentrates that come with it.

You still have to work.
F. Other Requirements


I. Medical marijuana cultivation is prohibited as a Home Occupation.
 
E

Eatatjoes

Doh! Maybe you can get a part time job or something.

I'm self employed but to tell you the truth I'm not a vendor of any kind, I'm just trying to keep from having to buy meds for the year. If at the end of next years season I have some left over I'll think about providing to a collective, for now this is all for me :D
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
This Brix Mix recombination project is becoming a pain in my ass. It should have been as easy as fill a PVGS basket with the ingredients... pull trigger. Mix. Not so much, though.

Also, one person i talked to had serious reservations about the use of liquid sulphur at all. can anybody see why this would be a problem? If PVGS had a liquid sulfur product whose concentration i could confirm, I wouldn't feel uncomfortable.

They don't carry Fertall anymore either and I haven't found any at the spots that carry grow more products. Anybody have an opinion as to whether Azomite would be a suitable replacement for the Fertall? The only micronute that PVGS carries now is the Biolink product. I wonder what percentage of the liquid recipe would be required to offset the 19% it makes up of the dry.

Phytamin is out of stock at PVGS until May 16th. Pretty sure Biolink has a product that could be substituted.
 
M

Mountain

Anybody have an opinion as to whether Azomite would be a suitable replacement for the Fertall?
Don't know about that but I can tell you SC is much better than Azomite.

I had to look up Fertall and they've got a lot of products so which one are you talking about? After a quick peek I don't see Azomite as a replacement for any of their products.

Are you looking mainly for sulfur?

can anybody see why this would be a problem?
Yeah use too much and you'll fry your plants...for sure if as a foliar...and highly acidifying when applied to soil.

SC supplies a decent amount of sulfur especially as a foliar.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
I am recombining the recipe for Brix Mix from PVGS posted by Trinity Gold earlier in the thread. I used this product to great effect in 2010 and want to copy it as close to the original recipe as possible. Certain ingredients are more difficult to get than others. I need a soluable dry micronute to replace fertall and so far, azomite seems to fit the bill. I may just go the route of substituting the Phytomin 4-4 for The Biolink 3-3-3 plus Micros. pretty sure that an older version of Brix Mix was made with Biolink 3-3-3.

The fertall that they use can be found here: http://www.plantsthatproduce.com/products/GM_FertAll_MB_50LB.html

I am not saying it more special than anything else, but i was VERY happy with my results last year and Brix Mix was all i fed in veg. Fertall MB is part of the recipe.
 
M

Mountain

Use on fruit trees and field crops for scab, powdery mildew, mites, thrips, brown rot and rust.
That's what I'd think something like a foliar sulfur would be used for. So you guys are using it for that?

Azomite for foliar eh? I've looked into this stuff a little and most always saw peeps using in soil. The local Roots Organics peeps/Aqua Serene recommended using some in an organic/organic based nute hydro program. I can see cause of how it's processed it's pretty readily available for applications like that. I just look at what it's mostly made of and still wondering what you're really wanting to get out of it I mean the main purpose for it's use in a foliar application? Is it mainly for the silicon? If so wouldn't potassium silicate be better? SC has 10 times the sulfur as Azomite and that when liquid so for a dry conversion comparison multiply that times 5.


 
B

Butte_Creek

i've got a great variety, friend of a friend's home made cross(irreplaceable variety), would love to run outside this season, and was very happy to receive 3 cuts.

i have never received cuts with visible PM or aware of PM infested clones when putting them outside, never actually had to really deal with PM too much outdoors where it became an issue. but i am very sad to discover this morning what i believe to be small spots of PM forming on the leafs of these 3 cuts. i then drenched them with some cal25 and some other things to stop development of more mildew.

my question: should i just cull them because they're a lost cause? or is there hope in successfully treating the PM throughout the season through foliars?
obviously the last 4-5 weeks of flower i won't want to be spraying, so that is when i would think things could get powdery, and the environment becomes cooler and damper in the night..

cull em?
 
T

Trinity Gold

Butte Creek - Since they're small why don't you just completely submerge them in some Oxidate. That will handle your problem.

Mountain - I am using THAT to make my own Brix Mix. I haven't used it by itself but I have used micronized powdered sulfur in a foliar application as my Go to for PM prevention since I started growing.
 
B

Butte_Creek

never heard of oxidate, thank you will do!

PS-where is a practical place to purchase oxidate?
 
T

Trinity Gold

You can buy Oxidate from ARBICO Organics. Actinovate SP is good to apply after the Oxidate dunk.
 
B

Butte_Creek

You must spread some rep before giving it TG again. thank you

edit:plants are in 3gals, so foliar will have to do. dislike when legitimate ag products start in 2.5gal size and up etc, makes it pricey and more than i need. but sounds like a great investment.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
While I was waiting for a shipment of Mycostop to arrive last season i used some actinovate on a couple of affected plants. I did not see the same rapid recovery from pathogens like I did with Mycostop. By no means was this a proper experiment, but I'm sticking with Mycostop.
 
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nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Again, just trying to recombine a product with which I have had awesome results. Not really trying to analyze it to death. Just trying to find all the listed ingredients so I can whip up a batch. In a perfect world, there will be no substitutions. Lets just hope the May 16th ship date for Phytomin is solid. Last year around this time is when they started delaying the ship date for Brix Mix itself. My plan, if I cannot get Phytomin in time , is to use Biolink 3-3-3... plus micros if i cannot find Fertall.

Thanks for the lead on THAT, TG.

Local source for Fertall anybody? Two places that carry standard growmore crap (like the EDTA 20-20-20 that many nasty growers use) have said that their distributor does not carry the Fertall.
 
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Eatatjoes

OG Kush light dep 30 days flower

OG Kush light dep 30 days flower

How's she look so far? I got this cut from a co-op, does it look like OG? If so what cut do you think? She smells fruity.



Anybody else have light dep flowers yet?
 
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