What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

Status
Not open for further replies.
T

Trinity Gold

Feeding your garden molasses makes the bacteria go insane. Is there any reason why you decided humax , kelp, and molasses will help you? The mix you're proposing to use has everything your plants need. Why mess with perfection?
 
nomaad

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Trinity Gold said:
I remember reading you don't prune anything..I would seriously reconsider that this year. Treat your ladies like fruit trees..

PS >> Can you believe I'm going to have some Blue Dreams this year?

PPS>> I think one of my problems last year for sure was transplanting out of smart pots. Hella stressful. Combined with the shitty weather I shot myself in the foot. Another thing I'm doing is keeping my plants on 20/4 till August 1. Hoping to induce flowering more like indoor so I can actually bring the blue dream in. If it works the way I'm hoping she will get 82 days of flowering when I would want to pick her in ideal fall weather.
Click to expand...

You misremember. We prune like mad. Bottoms and insides clean as can be.

We did not seem to have any problems transplanting from Smarties once we figured out the right technique. At the time, it seemed to have the effect of ripping off a band-aid, but everything took off like crazy so fast after transplant. The transplants were soaked with Kelp and B's before they were covered with fresh soil.

That's an interesting idea... I have also mused about the possibility of "pulling tarp", on the full season crop... i had a problem with most of my gigantic Pineapple Coughs triggering late (though a couple of em were just right)... i hadn;t considered keeping supplemental light on them and then pulling it to trigger. Nice one.

Glad to see you're man enough to flip the negative perception of Blue Dream. She will remain one of my favorites. Grow her right and she is far from mersh. I have seen so many interpretations of the strain from so many growers and paradigms, and the quality will range greatly.

I have experimented with taking the Blue Dream down from Oct 15th till Nov 20th. I personally prefer early BD (especially the flavor profile) to late BD. IMO the main benefit to the later BD was the amazing colors that come out in November. However, i think the clarity of the high diminishes and the taste and smell go over the edge from dank and funky (musky?) to almost too much of the overripe fruit profile. Again, I think its really up to individual taste.

We had BD plants that ranged widely in their ripeness on a given day in October though they all followed the same lifeline from cloning to harvest. I think that the fusarium played a role in this, but I am having trouble understanding the limited imfo I have and its plagued with contradictions... In the vast majority of the plants where the fusarium was not fatal, it may have still been present to varying degrees, slowing different plants at different rates. Sun quality also probably played into this, though I did not appreciate a direct correlation to ripeness, though i did to the more easily apparent fusarium cases. The shadiest spots had all the fusarium fatalities.

I won't get more data on this in 2011, because THERE WILL BE NO FUSARIUM.

So many angles to consider. Right now, my main concern is a final decision on how I am going to rehabilitate my soil. On Monday, I am sending in soil samples of last years leftovers, a fresh batch of my mix, and a couple of different rebuilds.
 
T

Trinity Gold

Another thing I didn't do was buffer my transplants with bagged soil that wasn't super hot. My beds were still pretty much nuclear reactors when I plugged my starts.

The weeds didn't really grow in my beds at all so I'm thinking the nutrient content in them is super low so I am going to turn them with the tractor and add a bunch of organic material back to it and make sure I buffer my transplants and I didn't use any smart pots for the plants that are in my green house. I'm hoping to be in by May 7. I think the weather is on schedule with my areas average temps. I am going to be putting MycoStop Mix in with the Mykos Gold around where i transplant my root ball and hit my shit with mycostop every week.
 
G

guest8905

Eatatjoes said:
Thanks for the reply Trinity, I'm thinking those ingredients should be ok to foliar feed I'm just curious what the pros think of it....
Click to expand...

I think you can safely call TG a pro ;)

Dam this thread has me wanting some my own big ones this year. Jah willing! I agree with Nomaad on the BD. The rotten fruit of the Nov. harvest is nice! and the colors are lovely.

Many blessings to all!

StickKy :rasta:
 
Dr. Purpur

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
Im wondering about the San Fernando OG Kush. Can that get very big outdoors in a large hole? How about Chemdog91? I also have the Headband cut from the Lost Coast. I figure that one can get pretty big. I just love the Headrushes and flavor of these plants, but I dont want to waste space if they dont get big
 
nomaad

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Trinity Gold said:
Another thing I didn't do was buffer my transplants with bagged soil that wasn't super hot. My beds were still pretty much nuclear reactors when I plugged my starts.

The weeds didn't really grow in my beds at all so I'm thinking the nutrient content in them is super low so I am going to turn them with the tractor and add a bunch of organic material back to it and make sure I buffer my transplants and I didn't use any smart pots for the plants that are in my green house. I'm hoping to be in by May 7. I think the weather is on schedule with my areas average temps. I am going to be putting MycoStop Mix in with the Mykos Gold around where i transplant my root ball and hit my shit with mycostop every week.
Click to expand...

One of my components for the soil recondition will be sonoma compost. Maybe some EWC too.

What about PreStop? Mycostop every week is pretty fucking aggressive. i don't think you'll be having any problems with a

mapinguari said:
Good luck avoiding fusarium this year.
Click to expand...

I will not be avoiding it. I'll be preventing it.

Dr. Purpur said:
Im wondering about the San Fernando OG Kush. Can that get very big outdoors in a large hole? How about Chemdog91? I also have the Headband cut from the Lost Coast. I figure that one can get pretty big. I just love the Headrushes and flavor of these plants, but I dont want to waste space if they dont get big
Click to expand...

I would not call any of the OG's, Chems and Sours "monster" yielders, but they ain't no slouches either. I will be running both Chem D, an OGK (though not the Triangle) and a great Sour D in big pots this year.

The OG perfoms really well in the black boxes... every tiny nuglet is a rock hard bag-worthy addition to yield. No larf whatsoever. The Chem D did very well in a later garden I participated in last year, really representing everything about the Chemdog that i love. But the Sour D (aka mendo SD, aka Sour 62) was the standout. I got 4 out of her in 200 gallons of dirt my first time to the dance. I am sure I could eak 6 out of her in the same pot with what I know now. Great yielder of super high quality nug in the black boxes, super nice SD taste and stinks thru bags, which is what I am looking for in SD. Tends to get a little fluffy full season, but still represents beautifully... Last year a friend got 8.5# in a 400 or 600 gallon planter.

I feel like Chem D would at least match the SD if not surpass. Its certainly did well in smaller pots last year. The quality is bomb.

I am on the lookout for a few more clone strains to round out this year's lineup. As much for the headstash as for the patients.

They go late. I took my Headband and SD down on Nov 9th last year. I assume they could have gone a couple of weeks longer but weather was getting consistently bad.
 
B

Butte_Creek

trinity gold-yeah, and kelp and humic will feed my fungi. molasses not every week, probably way less often. but i love what kelp can do for my veg plants in growth and trace elements and overall resilience. humic prevents soil compaction(which i don't know would really ever become much of problem in one season in beds) and helps plants feed and trace elements. my well water is 8.8 , but it's not a problem in a lively compost medium when most everything has to be immobilized and mineralized in the first place to feed my plants. if there's anything i'm not understanding or missing please correct me.

i don't believe in perfection. i'm no expert, but i can't see why kelp, humics and some sugars every once in a while couldn't be beneficial to overall vigor and size of plants :dunno:


not that you don't already know, but tom recommends doing a foliar of brix mix bi weekly, which contains kelp and fish among much others..
 
T

Trinity Gold

Yes exactly. That once a week foliar application of Brix Mix is hitting your plants with what you're talking about in a much more direct and available to them fashion. applications of fertilizers to foliage have been recorded in university field studies to become active in the root zone in as little as 30 minutes. The pieces of the soil mix Tom has recommended put together will give you all the micro and macro nutrients to grow monsters in first season beds. It's already hella expensive to grow some medicine, so no need to spend more money than you need to.
 
K

K1ndBudz

Member
Ive done some monsters straight from seed in the past, the problem is that you don't know for sure what the finished product is going to be like, males/herms/wasted space, amongst other things. With clones you can run the same plant year after year, learning how she likes to be treated.

I'm not a fan of throwing out little clones, when they are tossed out really small Ive noticed a few will end up "different" for better or worse. I think when they are put out that young they are still responding to environmental stimuli and will make changes in the growth accordingly. Leaving open the possibility of stunting even one of them.

With the Larger plants I find sometimes they are either just so old they want to bloom immediately or they are simply to strung out/ stressed and root bound to bounce back with much vigor.

I like a happy balance between the two extremes myself. Nice healthy 2-3 ft tall bushs in 5 gallys is what I shoot for. They have some nice established growth, but there still fairly young and spry.
 
Dr. Purpur

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
PS :Trinity

PS :Trinity

Thanks for the advice on going a full 77 days on the Headband. I did that and put out a much better quality bud than My buddy that went 65 days on the same plant. Now Hes going 77 on His run. Good call. Thanks
 
T

Trinity Gold

For sure. It always helps to let plants bloom out to their full maturity before harvest. Headband at 63 days or 65 days is like 2 weeks too early almost..Can't be having that. All the good stuff happens in those last 2 weeks
 
B

Butte_Creek

trinity gold- wow, i didn't know foliar was that serious. foliar of kelp and some of those supplements is excellent pest management and disease resistance as well. i don't think i will add kelp meal to the beds though. foliar is a little more work sometimes, but it seems the most beneficial.
 
G

guest8905

Also butte_creek a good read is rootwise's thread and his homebrew tea setup. also Butte has some good info on brewing your own tea. Tea makes great foilar
 
Y

YosemiteSam

Calcium 25

Calcium 25

So I started using this on indoor plants. All of a sudden my plants were finishing a week or 1.5 weeks quicker. It made no sense that the addition of just a little Ca could do that.

A buddy did some research and found the patent info for Ca25. http://www.patentgenius.com/patent/4333758.html

Turns out there is a pgr, triacontanol, in the mix. The reason there are different Ca25s for different crops is to dial in the pgr.

If you read the patent closely you will see that to make the tria soluble (or technically miscible) one needs to use a non polar solvent like acetone or methyl ethyl ketone. Probably a very small amount but still, it is there.

I know Ca25 is OMRI certified...but I don't see how those solvents can qualify.

Not trying to be a stick in the mud. Just trying to let people be slightly more informed if they want to be.

Me...I am going to keep using it. Along with Brix Mix it makes for a most excellent combo in my humble opinion.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top