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Terra Preta - Dark Soil - Experiment
- Thread starter SilverSurfer_OG
- Start date
yea, i have about 5 lbs of biochar powder, i kinda liked how the pic of the bigger chunks turned out. 
Similarly, http://www.holon.se/folke/carbon/simplechar/simplechar.shtml
The above would be very simple to make using tins, such as a largish paint drum combined with a smaller one. From my basic understanding of the principles at play, if you don't plan to use it as a stove then adding a lid to the outer container with a chimney attached to the center would help achieve a cleaner burn.
I'll be building one of these once my supply of horticultural charcoal runs out.
It has been three years since I first put char in my soil. So I've been recycling this soil for 3 years too. It started at pot culture, 3 gallon pots, then 8 gallons, now a bed.
My garden bed is 16 sq ft and 1 ft deep, so that's 16 cubic feet of soil. It has 5% char per volume. 80% of this is 3 years in the soil. 20% was added around 5 months ago and caused problems (burnt too hot from someone elses campfire and was basic) till I gave the bed including basic char some castings tea and mulch (thanks Jay). It cheered up immediately. I have switched to no till and more thanks to Jaykush for his sage advice - now am sold on using mulch and teas alone as soil additives.
The mulch I use is leaves and and lots of dried 'weeds'. Weeds like dandelion, sowthistle, watercress, algae... Other weeds will be added as I learn wtf they are hehe.
This run has needed no ferts at all. The plants are amping away I just switched to flower having hit 2 ft high in 4 weeks from seedlings. And I topped them...
Might not sound very flash to some here, depends on the genes you grow, with these genes, the no till bed with char and mulch is kicking ass.
My garden bed is 16 sq ft and 1 ft deep, so that's 16 cubic feet of soil. It has 5% char per volume. 80% of this is 3 years in the soil. 20% was added around 5 months ago and caused problems (burnt too hot from someone elses campfire and was basic) till I gave the bed including basic char some castings tea and mulch (thanks Jay). It cheered up immediately. I have switched to no till and more thanks to Jaykush for his sage advice - now am sold on using mulch and teas alone as soil additives.
The mulch I use is leaves and and lots of dried 'weeds'. Weeds like dandelion, sowthistle, watercress, algae... Other weeds will be added as I learn wtf they are hehe.
This run has needed no ferts at all. The plants are amping away I just switched to flower having hit 2 ft high in 4 weeks from seedlings. And I topped them...
Might not sound very flash to some here, depends on the genes you grow, with these genes, the no till bed with char and mulch is kicking ass.
Thats the ticket fista!
I am just waiting for sum trees and bits of wood to dry out and i am going to start up production again.
Cant wait for this season down under!
I am just waiting for sum trees and bits of wood to dry out and i am going to start up production again.
Cant wait for this season down under!
Wow! What a gold mine of information. I am blown away by the implications of the Lucia stove and terra preta. What a perfect circle - cooking your food and ending with a material that gives you more food - adding to the good side rather than taking away - sounds like a system to me.
Saw some publicity the last couple days about the stove thing - Hillary's giving it a push -
http://cleancookstoves.org/
Going back to the postings about adding pottery etc - pottery supply stores sell what is called grog, a material that is made from fired clay ground up. It is added to clay bodies. Unfortunately the largest size available is 20 mesh. In general, pottery supply stores carry all sorts of ground roclks for glave materials - dolomite, feldspars, silicas...
http://www.georgies.com/
Primitive pottery was all fired essentially in bonfires or pits. Clay can be made to vitrify at temps as low as 585c in an above ground bonfire. You can buy premixed clay, form it into sheets, and fire it at home. Commercial terra cotta pots are fired to a higher temp and are harder
a quick search gave this information for firing -
http://books.google.com/books?id=SK...Aw#v=onepage&q=pit firing temperature&f=false
I'm wondering if what you are making the charcoal out of makes any difference in the end result? For example, what about using alfalfa pellets or meals for your raw material? Gilding the lily perhaps?
Saw some publicity the last couple days about the stove thing - Hillary's giving it a push -
http://cleancookstoves.org/
Going back to the postings about adding pottery etc - pottery supply stores sell what is called grog, a material that is made from fired clay ground up. It is added to clay bodies. Unfortunately the largest size available is 20 mesh. In general, pottery supply stores carry all sorts of ground roclks for glave materials - dolomite, feldspars, silicas...
http://www.georgies.com/
Primitive pottery was all fired essentially in bonfires or pits. Clay can be made to vitrify at temps as low as 585c in an above ground bonfire. You can buy premixed clay, form it into sheets, and fire it at home. Commercial terra cotta pots are fired to a higher temp and are harder
a quick search gave this information for firing -
http://books.google.com/books?id=SK...Aw#v=onepage&q=pit firing temperature&f=false
I'm wondering if what you are making the charcoal out of makes any difference in the end result? For example, what about using alfalfa pellets or meals for your raw material? Gilding the lily perhaps?
An answer to one question -
Biochar reduces soil acidity which decreases liming needs, but in most cases does not actually add nutrients in any appreciable amount. Biochar made from manure and bones is the exception; it retains a significant amount of nutrients from its source.
http://www.biochar-international.org/biochar/faqs#q7
Biochar reduces soil acidity which decreases liming needs, but in most cases does not actually add nutrients in any appreciable amount. Biochar made from manure and bones is the exception; it retains a significant amount of nutrients from its source.
http://www.biochar-international.org/biochar/faqs#q7
stoner post alert- off topic - I was wondering about pyrolising plastic as a way to sequester carbon and found this -
http://www.polymerenergy.com/
different direction, but it sounds like a great way to get rid of all these bags/landfills.
Pyrolysis just sounds like a gigantic direction for the better.
http://www.polymerenergy.com/
different direction, but it sounds like a great way to get rid of all these bags/landfills.
Pyrolysis just sounds like a gigantic direction for the better.
Good energy there Albertine. I'm glad you found this thread. I guess the trick to technologies like this that show win win scenarios is to spread the word and convince others not only to do the same, but also convince others to do this as well. In this way our efforts snowball.
Biochar should not only reduce liming needs, it should reduce the needs for all inputs, and eventually end the need for nutrient inputs entirely (atmospheric contributions and H2O being the exception).
Once the microbial population that inhabit terra preta soils is well established in a plant/insect animal community all of a plants requirements can be met without any need for fertiliser inputs any more. Permaculture gardeners are achieving these conditions with only mulch being added. After learning about permaculture and mulching I tried char and mulch together as a method to eliminate fert use - and so far it works. The mulch was initially just to cool the soil, but then Jay (Honorary Organic Dr Jaykush hehe) taught me more on mulch and now after so many years trying to make the easiest laziest system of anything and everything I do I stumble onto permaculture and discover that laziness is their guiding principle as well. Minimise effort. Do it once, do it right. Increasing rewards for diminishing efforts.
No till, cut instead of pull weeds, no fertilising. Mulch Mulch Mulch. Honestly, try this with char. Outstanding.
Hi SS. Yes, spring is here (well, a big storm system), and I've decided to go the route of having the two barrel system using shelter belt prunings for biochar BBQ's all summer to accumulate lots of char for the garden. Cook, crush, pee on it, compost it - spread it. In that order, Peeing on it before cooking with it is a no no.
Bought a nice new wok and got loads of peppers celery peas etc coming through for the stir fries. SUMMER!
Biochar should not only reduce liming needs, it should reduce the needs for all inputs, and eventually end the need for nutrient inputs entirely (atmospheric contributions and H2O being the exception).
Once the microbial population that inhabit terra preta soils is well established in a plant/insect animal community all of a plants requirements can be met without any need for fertiliser inputs any more. Permaculture gardeners are achieving these conditions with only mulch being added. After learning about permaculture and mulching I tried char and mulch together as a method to eliminate fert use - and so far it works. The mulch was initially just to cool the soil, but then Jay (Honorary Organic Dr Jaykush hehe) taught me more on mulch and now after so many years trying to make the easiest laziest system of anything and everything I do I stumble onto permaculture and discover that laziness is their guiding principle as well. Minimise effort. Do it once, do it right. Increasing rewards for diminishing efforts.
No till, cut instead of pull weeds, no fertilising. Mulch Mulch Mulch. Honestly, try this with char. Outstanding.
Hi SS. Yes, spring is here (well, a big storm system), and I've decided to go the route of having the two barrel system using shelter belt prunings for biochar BBQ's all summer to accumulate lots of char for the garden. Cook, crush, pee on it, compost it - spread it. In that order, Peeing on it before cooking with it is a no no.
Bought a nice new wok and got loads of peppers celery peas etc coming through for the stir fries. SUMMER!
Hey fista could u extrapolate a bit more on ur bbq to garden method?
I am gonna make a brick/stone bbq soon...
Also do u have soma style beds indoors?
Cheers mon
I am gonna make a brick/stone bbq soon...
Also do u have soma style beds indoors?
Cheers mon
Dutch postcode lottery green challenge
saw 'char' get a runner-up........
http://www.greenchallenge.info/web/show/id=68954/contentid=3855
Runner-up wins €200,000 for charcoal kiln
The jury awarded a €200,000 runner-up prize to Jason Aramburu. The American's compact high-temperature kiln for African farmers, the Re:char, turns agricultural and animal waste into biochar, a kind of charcoal. The substance can be used as fuel for cooking and heating and to fertilise crops. Buried biochar sequesters carbon that would otherwise turn to CO2 or methane. The Re:char kiln also fights deforestation caused by current charcoal production.
saw 'char' get a runner-up........
http://www.greenchallenge.info/web/show/id=68954/contentid=3855
Runner-up wins €200,000 for charcoal kiln
The jury awarded a €200,000 runner-up prize to Jason Aramburu. The American's compact high-temperature kiln for African farmers, the Re:char, turns agricultural and animal waste into biochar, a kind of charcoal. The substance can be used as fuel for cooking and heating and to fertilise crops. Buried biochar sequesters carbon that would otherwise turn to CO2 or methane. The Re:char kiln also fights deforestation caused by current charcoal production.
For the BBQ I'll just use the two barrels, one larger one smaller. While charring the small barrel the larger one can double as a cooking stove.
This => http://www.holon.se/folke/carbon/simplechar/simplechar.shtml
Soma style beds? Has someone made a box of dirt and named it after themselves - rofl! Or has it some special design features.
I got a 12 sq ft garden bed indoors. This is a no till bed with char soil and mulch covering. The mulch will vary but I'll be utilising weeds known for nutritive values as well as general yard leaves from several tree types.
The girls will get teas, but honestly the plants look so healthy the teas are just so I have something to do.
The bed is truly inspiring, hence the plan to have many BBQ's and get more char on my section.
I plan to move my gardening to all no till, mulch and char, compost teas, BIM's, FPE's and that's it. After all these years of observations and hard work and endless hours poring over internet sites...
I had to learn all the hard ways the hard way, such is my nature. The easy way is char, mulch and microbes.
This => http://www.holon.se/folke/carbon/simplechar/simplechar.shtml
Soma style beds? Has someone made a box of dirt and named it after themselves - rofl! Or has it some special design features.
I got a 12 sq ft garden bed indoors. This is a no till bed with char soil and mulch covering. The mulch will vary but I'll be utilising weeds known for nutritive values as well as general yard leaves from several tree types.
The girls will get teas, but honestly the plants look so healthy the teas are just so I have something to do.
The bed is truly inspiring, hence the plan to have many BBQ's and get more char on my section.
I plan to move my gardening to all no till, mulch and char, compost teas, BIM's, FPE's and that's it. After all these years of observations and hard work and endless hours poring over internet sites...
I had to learn all the hard ways the hard way, such is my nature. The easy way is char, mulch and microbes.
Yes i gotcha!
This was my approach until my lid got dented and lets air in. Now it just makes ash...
Going to try the pit method and oil drum with coverable holes too. Just need a spell of dry weather, its been so wet here...
I like the sound of ur beds. Yup soma been rocking this style for years but dont think wiv char. Do u have issues wiv moldy mulch?
This was my approach until my lid got dented and lets air in. Now it just makes ash...
Going to try the pit method and oil drum with coverable holes too. Just need a spell of dry weather, its been so wet here...
I like the sound of ur beds. Yup soma been rocking this style for years but dont think wiv char. Do u have issues wiv moldy mulch?
Mold - never seen it since I banned the Jack Herer from my grows. The mulch indoor layer just couldn't get moldy the top is only damp after a watering the mulch stays pretty much dry but the soil is way better off (cooler) than without it. I let it get crispy dry and then I powder handfuls of it at a time when in there. I figure the wee bits will be worm food. I experimented with a tea bag spread it about and the tea leaves vanished overnight.
You have me confused about a lid getting dented. The two barrels have no lids?
You have me confused about a lid getting dented. The two barrels have no lids?
Ok thats cool. I tried using alfalfa indoors as mulch in pots but it quickly turned blue and was sporing all over the place!
I had an oil drum i lit the fire in and a steel trashcan wiv tight lid i made char in. This got dented. I was doing the upside down thing but its awkward and heavy to drop in and maintain seal. Impossible wiv dented lip...
I had an oil drum i lit the fire in and a steel trashcan wiv tight lid i made char in. This got dented. I was doing the upside down thing but its awkward and heavy to drop in and maintain seal. Impossible wiv dented lip...
Ahah! Thanks for that.
I add 'greens' to my mulch, but at that stage they are completely dried out. So I pick a bunch of weed tops, put them in a well aired spot on a mesh rack and dry them, then they become mulch. Added to this the bulk of the material is browns (leaves dried on the tree), though this may change over time as I monitor things.
The difference in these mulch 'stocks' is that the browns have undergone senescence and had their N etc removed; the greens are dried leaf matter but they were cut in their prime.
Thanks for heads up on the lip. I'll try find some way of dropping it into a wee circular groove in the soil. Perhaps I need to design an easy release clamp for holding the barrels together. I'll see when I get some barrels, bloody rare when you want em, everywhere when you don't.
I add 'greens' to my mulch, but at that stage they are completely dried out. So I pick a bunch of weed tops, put them in a well aired spot on a mesh rack and dry them, then they become mulch. Added to this the bulk of the material is browns (leaves dried on the tree), though this may change over time as I monitor things.
The difference in these mulch 'stocks' is that the browns have undergone senescence and had their N etc removed; the greens are dried leaf matter but they were cut in their prime.
Thanks for heads up on the lip. I'll try find some way of dropping it into a wee circular groove in the soil. Perhaps I need to design an easy release clamp for holding the barrels together. I'll see when I get some barrels, bloody rare when you want em, everywhere when you don't.
Those sound good. Crush charcoal first, then soak them for as long as is comfortable for you to let it get in. Add a bubbler to the soak is my practise, just in case anaerobes try set up shop.
I strongly suspect anaerobes live in the heart of char but in a position where they do good rather than harm their byproducts being policed by a barrier of facultative organisms.
I strongly suspect anaerobes live in the heart of char but in a position where they do good rather than harm their byproducts being policed by a barrier of facultative organisms.
