Caffeine is an insecticide. I wouldn't be surprised if the bitter flavor of coffee has an anti-predator effect also. Nicotine is also an insecticide. Wouldn't be surprised if THC is in the same boat. We love out plant poisons.
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Team Microbe's Living Soil Laboratory
- Thread starter Team Microbe
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Hey TM, here's a copy of the ratio's for the top dress kit by BAS.
Sure, we've made a list below. If you have any other questions let us know.
Worm Castings: 50%
Compost: 50%
Comfrey Leaf: Handful
Kelp Meal: 1/2 Cup / Per CF
Neem Cake: 1/4 Cup / Per CF
Fish Bone Meal: 1/2 Cup / Per CF
Gypsum: 1 Cup / Per CF
Thanks,
Zach
Sure, we've made a list below. If you have any other questions let us know.
Worm Castings: 50%
Compost: 50%
Comfrey Leaf: Handful
Kelp Meal: 1/2 Cup / Per CF
Neem Cake: 1/4 Cup / Per CF
Fish Bone Meal: 1/2 Cup / Per CF
Gypsum: 1 Cup / Per CF
Thanks,
Zach
Edited my post a bit. You're right, we are all on one side, so let's try to keep it civil
You've got a free hug on the house TM.
I love this innocent front you put on when posting publicly, little does everyone know who you really are when nobody's looking (private messages). Don't let this guy fool you folks, he has something against me and will do everything he can to de-rail this thread. He followed me to Grasscity to solely troll on me there... case closed.
(This is why I have a negative tone while responding to him)
Please dismiss yourself from my thread Mikell. I won't ask you again.
You say you don't see the stress, but the pause is actually the plant showing signs of stress - so you are indeed seeing it you just aren't interpreting it as stress. If you still crop out enough weight for your liking, then I don't see the need to worry about it
I've looked into Brix and I don't think it's an accurate form of measuring plant health. It'd be interesting to test these nonetheless, but I just feel like we have a long way to go in that area before using it to determine anything factual. What do you think?
It's the ongoing passive aggressiveness and the buzz kill that you constantly provide out of spite of that first argument we had. Do I really have to copy and paste the PM where you admitted to making an account solely to troll on me since LLB told you to? You guys are pathetic man, grow up and stop acting like a child behind your computer screen. You wouldn't last a second if you were to disrespect me face to face, and the fact that you wouldn't say 90% of the dick head remarks you say on here makes me lose all respect for you. I can't take you seriously, I think that's the problem here. The grudge you have against me is unlike any other I've experienced in my life... maybe if I posted pictures of unhealthy plants you would back off a little bit and feel better about yourself
This is the last time I feed you. Peace bro.
Today's site search
Today's site search
Wanted to share this view with you all tonight! A few of my outdoor patches will be in this stretch of wilderness, it's so much more beautiful than my home town lol
This entire forest has an abandoned railroad running through it, and since it's standard gauge I'm able to use the rail cart for hauling in supplies wherever I need to get them to. Compost is heavy, and hauling half a pallet for 4+ miles on a railroad track would be completely exhausting to say the least. This cart I made makes it possible.
Here's a spot I found after repelling down a hillside off the side of the tracks. There's a lake out in the distance, which is where this waterway leads to. I'm not certain where the water levels rise to here, so it'll be a calculated risk I'll have to take. This is the main disadvantage to site-searching the same year of the grow; you don't know what things look like in October and what you plant in one spot may not be as ideal as "over there". I took back a few cups of soil to get tested at Logan Labs, so time will tell if this is a good option. There's still snow on the ground in some places up here, so this will be the patch that I plant last. The local sites will be tended to first after clones are rooted/hardened off.
Even though this is remote, I'll still follow protocol for the site-prep. Pine trees are great because you can brush past them and the branches just bounce right back - no sign of entry (for the most part). I transplanted a bunch of seedlings where I begin to descend off of the tracks, this will help hide my entrance in the near future. I bagged up some brush a good 100 yards away before transplanting, then used it to cover any ground I disturbed during the transplant. It worked out well.
Fomitopsis Pinicola - or the "Red-Banded Polypore" mushroom. Can be compared to the Reishi mushroom, but not as powerful healing capabilities I've heard. Tastes like acidic regurgitation lol. If that's your thing, then you're gonna love this one!
I know this is an indoor thread, but are there any outdoor growers out there?
Today's site search
Wanted to share this view with you all tonight! A few of my outdoor patches will be in this stretch of wilderness, it's so much more beautiful than my home town lol
This entire forest has an abandoned railroad running through it, and since it's standard gauge I'm able to use the rail cart for hauling in supplies wherever I need to get them to. Compost is heavy, and hauling half a pallet for 4+ miles on a railroad track would be completely exhausting to say the least. This cart I made makes it possible.
Here's a spot I found after repelling down a hillside off the side of the tracks. There's a lake out in the distance, which is where this waterway leads to. I'm not certain where the water levels rise to here, so it'll be a calculated risk I'll have to take. This is the main disadvantage to site-searching the same year of the grow; you don't know what things look like in October and what you plant in one spot may not be as ideal as "over there". I took back a few cups of soil to get tested at Logan Labs, so time will tell if this is a good option. There's still snow on the ground in some places up here, so this will be the patch that I plant last. The local sites will be tended to first after clones are rooted/hardened off.
Even though this is remote, I'll still follow protocol for the site-prep. Pine trees are great because you can brush past them and the branches just bounce right back - no sign of entry (for the most part). I transplanted a bunch of seedlings where I begin to descend off of the tracks, this will help hide my entrance in the near future. I bagged up some brush a good 100 yards away before transplanting, then used it to cover any ground I disturbed during the transplant. It worked out well.
Fomitopsis Pinicola - or the "Red-Banded Polypore" mushroom. Can be compared to the Reishi mushroom, but not as powerful healing capabilities I've heard. Tastes like acidic regurgitation lol. If that's your thing, then you're gonna love this one!
I know this is an indoor thread, but are there any outdoor growers out there?
sweet ass rail cart tm!
Thank you!!! It's about time someone stepped in...
In post 610 you said you transplanted a pine tree ? what kind of pine is that ? Looks to be some sort of fir or spruce to me ? just curious as its a diff part of the country then ive lived and logged in ..... so it interesting to know what kind of pine that is .... looks so much like a fir tree to me ?
As far as Brix goes...
I think a Brix reading is valuable information, but it's not absolute. I think that if your Brix is high, you've probably got some healthy plants. Maybe they can be very healthy without a very high Brix. I don't know. I'm guessing that extreme health will go hand in hand with high Brix.
You're not trying for a high Brix reading, but I bet you'd have a high Brix reading if you measured it. The weakness of Brix readings that I can see is that there is a general assumption that high Brix=high sugar, but it's a reading of combined sugar and other things, so that's why I say it's not absolute. I realize that my comments are on an elementary level, but that's about my speed when it comes to Brix. It's something I need to study more. You can get a decent spectrometer for $25ish. Or maybe you can borrow one. Anyway it would be interesting. -granger
And oh yeah... the pause after topping. Elongation of the side shoots is being suppressed most of the time. When you pinch or top a plant the auxins in the growing tip are removed, and the roots send cytokinins to the side shoots to tell them to elongate. The time this takes accounts for the pause [more elementary level explanation]. I don't believe this is necessarily stressful to the plant if done properly. If max growth is a grower's prime goal, then probably he/she wouldn't want to top his/her plants. I need to control height and try for a pretty uniform canopy. It's a useful tool for me.
I think a Brix reading is valuable information, but it's not absolute. I think that if your Brix is high, you've probably got some healthy plants. Maybe they can be very healthy without a very high Brix. I don't know. I'm guessing that extreme health will go hand in hand with high Brix.
You're not trying for a high Brix reading, but I bet you'd have a high Brix reading if you measured it. The weakness of Brix readings that I can see is that there is a general assumption that high Brix=high sugar, but it's a reading of combined sugar and other things, so that's why I say it's not absolute. I realize that my comments are on an elementary level, but that's about my speed when it comes to Brix. It's something I need to study more. You can get a decent spectrometer for $25ish. Or maybe you can borrow one. Anyway it would be interesting. -granger
And oh yeah... the pause after topping. Elongation of the side shoots is being suppressed most of the time. When you pinch or top a plant the auxins in the growing tip are removed, and the roots send cytokinins to the side shoots to tell them to elongate. The time this takes accounts for the pause [more elementary level explanation]. I don't believe this is necessarily stressful to the plant if done properly. If max growth is a grower's prime goal, then probably he/she wouldn't want to top his/her plants. I need to control height and try for a pretty uniform canopy. It's a useful tool for me.
Granger
I hear ya, and I agree with the high numbers equating to healthy plants but the part I can't understand is how you would accurately monitor the numbers over a period of time without having too many fluctuations in your routine. For example my temps fluctuate, as well as my watering amounts. It's to my knowledge that unless you take readings at the exact same time every day and conditions are stable, then it's accurate. If not, then the numbers will be a little off... correct me if I'm wrong here.
As far as HST goes - why not incorporate something like coconut water that already has the cytokinins? Or a corn seed sprout tea? I've found that this creates that "bushing" affect and the need for topping to create an even and filled in canopy dissipates completely... just a thought. I never topped this plant or tied it down, and look at how well the cytokinins helped my cause:
I hear ya, and I agree with the high numbers equating to healthy plants but the part I can't understand is how you would accurately monitor the numbers over a period of time without having too many fluctuations in your routine. For example my temps fluctuate, as well as my watering amounts. It's to my knowledge that unless you take readings at the exact same time every day and conditions are stable, then it's accurate. If not, then the numbers will be a little off... correct me if I'm wrong here.
As far as HST goes - why not incorporate something like coconut water that already has the cytokinins? Or a corn seed sprout tea? I've found that this creates that "bushing" affect and the need for topping to create an even and filled in canopy dissipates completely... just a thought. I never topped this plant or tied it down, and look at how well the cytokinins helped my cause:
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Origin of beady/pearly bud pheno (Dr. Grinspoon, quaze)- Latest: FellaAndrene
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Origin of beady/pearly bud pheno (Dr. Grinspoon, quaze)
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