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Team Microbe's Living Soil Laboratory
- Thread starter Team Microbe
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Polygon
Member
Hey TM, what are your thoughts on doing large beds instead of 7-10 gallon no-till and cover-cropped/mulch pots?
I have been thinking about trying this in s 5x9x8 and think it would be a really good way to do no-till with a large soil network with the rigging of some irrigation and some scrogging.
I can see some disadvantages (not being able to rotate the plants, cover crop needing to be re-planted more often, having to wait in-between harvests to re-plant and possibly not being able to do a perpetual with different strains)
Just wanted to pick your brain on it. Most likely going to do 7-gals until I get through some pheno hunting, then on to 10-gals.
I have been thinking about trying this in s 5x9x8 and think it would be a really good way to do no-till with a large soil network with the rigging of some irrigation and some scrogging.
I can see some disadvantages (not being able to rotate the plants, cover crop needing to be re-planted more often, having to wait in-between harvests to re-plant and possibly not being able to do a perpetual with different strains)
Just wanted to pick your brain on it. Most likely going to do 7-gals until I get through some pheno hunting, then on to 10-gals.
Thanks man!
Thank you dude, appreciate the kind words
Great question, I was actually debating the same thing the other week when I was planning out my next run. Personally, if I wasn't limited space-wise and would be able to get around a 4x8 bed comfortably for pruning/tending/foliar spraying I would without a doubt hook a bed up.
It would be tight inside my 5'x10' tent though, so I'm gonna stick to 10 gals and 7 gals for practicality reasons. The beds would yield more flower though, hands down. The roots would be allowed to roam freely in a huge space compared to the small pots we usually use. My friend reported a big increase in trunk size after going to beds, as well as yield. I see everyone moving to beds lately, I can't wait to do it myself next time I expand!
Because I wasn't in a hurry to chop, that's pretty much what it came down to. I didn't realize how late it was until recently and they didn't fade completely yet so I was just letting them do their thing. The Lotus were SSH dominant so that's another reason why they took a while to finish, they were one of the longest flowerers in the tent.
nice thread with lots of good actual organic growing information. I'm subbed.
Thanks man! I try to pass on whatever that's been passed on to me. I've noticed a HUGE boom in the organic canna community lately, and it's due to everyone seeing results and just wanting to tell the next guy what they learned... it's like a brotherhood in a way
I made a new thread you guys should check out...
I made a new thread you guys should check out...
Posted this over at the Infirmary regarding botrytis and powdery mildew - it was an article I typed up for Silverback's "Discussion about mold" thread but spent so much time on it that I decided to make a thread out of it. Here it is:
How To Prevent Bud Rot, Botrytis, and Powdery Mildew
I made a new thread you guys should check out...
Posted this over at the Infirmary regarding botrytis and powdery mildew - it was an article I typed up for Silverback's "Discussion about mold" thread but spent so much time on it that I decided to make a thread out of it. Here it is:
How To Prevent Bud Rot, Botrytis, and Powdery Mildew
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The neem is completely beneficial to the web, no worries man. It contains a rich NPK make up that will feed the soil nicely if done in moderation.
For mites I would drench with 2-3 tsp every 3 days for 3x applications, wait a week (drench with water as usual) then repeat the treatment. Be careful in flower though, usually Neem drenches will stick around for 6 weeks so after week 2 water only should be used. I've heard that a mint tea is beneficial for mites, simply grind up mint and soak in water overnight - strain and feed that solution as a drench every 3 days, for 3x then copy the protocol for Neem ^
Jeremy from BAS has said for mites in flowering plants he'll use the H20 treatment as well, and try to spray off any mites underneath the leaves and what not. After, he'll go through and remove as many by hand as possible, then repeat a few days later. He would rather go this route than put any chemical pesticides on his plants, "A few mites are better than a few chemicals".
Yes the water spray knocks them off and injures many. After the water spray I would immediately do an area spray with Cedarcide or GoGnats, covering floor, walls, doors, containers incl bottoms, and lightly on soil surface/mulch. I would do this every 36 hours for 4 sprayings, then observe/re-assess. You can do the area spray with Safer's Insecticide soap or other organic insecticides. Good luck. -granger
I would've taken the San Andraes down 10 days earlier for a more cloudy trich profile I'd say, maybe 14 days even but I'm excited to see how the buzz is off of this strain nonetheless - it might be a real good knock out high for bed time I'm thinkin
harvest mites
harvest mites
If you happen to find mites when you are harvesting, scrape the sticky off the sticky fly trap and apply to 4-6 inches at the base of the stalk and hang. This should catch most (Hopefully all) of them as they leave the dying plant. then clean the shit out of the room.
harvest mites
If you happen to find mites when you are harvesting, scrape the sticky off the sticky fly trap and apply to 4-6 inches at the base of the stalk and hang. This should catch most (Hopefully all) of them as they leave the dying plant. then clean the shit out of the room.
thank you guys for taking the time to respond=)
in flower i am just spraying them heavy then spreading out around an oscillating fan to dry while i clean their cabinet with 30% alcohol spray really hoping i don't get any bud rot or pm from the moisture due to low temps right now.
had a commerce city kush from fem seed loved it perfect plant and lost clones due to mites so i took it out of cab and treated with neem and placed back into veg it was only 2 weeks into flower and ended up with full on BALLS everywhere below every female flower BALLS
made me want to cry but i culled her
in flower i am just spraying them heavy then spreading out around an oscillating fan to dry while i clean their cabinet with 30% alcohol spray really hoping i don't get any bud rot or pm from the moisture due to low temps right now.
had a commerce city kush from fem seed loved it perfect plant and lost clones due to mites so i took it out of cab and treated with neem and placed back into veg it was only 2 weeks into flower and ended up with full on BALLS everywhere below every female flower BALLS
made me want to cry but i culled her
blackpulpit
Member
Team Microbe I had to jump in and say what beautiful plants you have and a sound philosophy on growing, well done.
I too have all those books you mentioned (Teaming w microbes, one straw, etc) and they have changed my entire way of looking at not only growing but life in general if I may say, great recommendations for anyone.
I have a question for you if you don't mind? I live in Central America and sourcing good peat moss has been difficult, but, I do have excellent ewc,lombri compost and BAS nutrient kit along with Agsil 16h
black molasses and plenty of aloe and coconuts! can this be a good start for a soil mixture in the right ratios and then let sit for say a month and then start there? basically don't have peat moss thats all, thanks and look forward to learning more from you.
I too have all those books you mentioned (Teaming w microbes, one straw, etc) and they have changed my entire way of looking at not only growing but life in general if I may say, great recommendations for anyone.
I have a question for you if you don't mind? I live in Central America and sourcing good peat moss has been difficult, but, I do have excellent ewc,lombri compost and BAS nutrient kit along with Agsil 16h
black molasses and plenty of aloe and coconuts! can this be a good start for a soil mixture in the right ratios and then let sit for say a month and then start there? basically don't have peat moss thats all, thanks and look forward to learning more from you.
Thanks man! Great books too, huh? Game changers to say the least...
No peat moss eh? Hmmm.. any coco coir around? If neither are available then you may have to go dig up some fertile native soil, however I try to prevent from bringing outside ---> in but it may be your only option if nothing is available. Where in Central America if you don't mind me asking?
You def want to get something to balance out that organic matter, an ideal ratio would be 1:1:1 for humus:aeration
eat/coco/etc. That's a really good question though, I wonder what would happen if you replaced the peat for another part humus? Maybe if you do source something to make it the soil mix even parts (1:1:1) you could mix up a small batch on the side with more humus or no peat/coco at all for comparison purposes. I'd be interested in seeing a side by side like thatblackpulpit
Member
Thanks for the reply TM, I am in Costa Rica just below the cloud forest and I have a national park as my backyard (love reading those books then going exploring around here). I do have coco coir and lots of it from fine to chunky, actually using the fine as a top mulch layer at the moment. So I suppose use coco in place to the peat moss?…I know many who do coco/pumice/compost so can work, I was curious as to what I could use to mimic this style without peat, thanks.
blackpulpit
Member
If coco is the best substitute for peat which should I use the fine or a chancy version? I have plenty of red lava rock which I use as aeration as well as rice hulls in a different mix. I have around 25g of equal parts lombri compost/lava rock/ewc/3 to 4 cups BAS nutrient mix composting at the moment and will try a little of this to see what happens when it is ready in another 3 weeks… possibly add coco to this then if this works for the peat?
That forest soil is most likely black gold, but to be safe I'd go with the coco coir if it's available. The finer stuff is probably better, I'm not sure which kind you have access to but washing it in a bucket with drainage holes would be a good idea - I've heard of some companies having salty coco that you wanna rinse first before using. Top dress with EWC and if you have any other type of mulch to go on top of that... all the better! I use straw and cocoa shell mulch on top, the castings underneath help break down the straw into carbon for the microbes to consume as food/energy, thus increasing the efficiency of you nutrient "delivery drivers" (microbes). You should have great success with coco coir, hit that 1:1:1 ratio! Best of luck
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