Team Microbe's Living Soil Laboratory

[Team Microbe]

Sicilian before the chop

Sicilian Revenge before the dry trim

...and afterwards

Another Cheesequake x Hollister Kush shot. I'm actually the only grower to posses this strain so it still needs a name - any suggestions anyone??
(Hollister, CA is on the San Adreas fault btw, incase that helps spark your imagination)

The 3 books that changed my entire grow game - I highly recommend any of these.

 

[Hash Zeppelin]

Dude the post on vapor pressure deficit. Very informative. Ty. You have raised some new questions in my head. See I live in the now bay and my humidity is high, but I get he same curling. But only near the light. I blamed this on high PAR. However this happens to be the only place in our rooms where the humidity is probably very low. Now I'm also certain this is because a lack of humidity. The buds are also smaller and frostier in the area very close to the light which is a known result of low humidity. It's a defense response to slow transpiration. However I still blame it on par because the rh in the rest of the room was like 60 percent. I need clip on hood fans

Ty again for the excellent posting team microbe. Learning new shit all the time.

Beautiful herb as well my friend.

 

[MJtheIndicator]

If the Cheese dominates the cross, you might need a cheese reference first then something seismic and finally a Hollister landmark. I hazard the guess cheese dom. Revenge FTW.

 

[MJtheIndicator]

Oh! Maybe a Rafe Hollister reference, you know Andy Griffith show. "Mayor Stoner" works maybe. Major Stoner???

 

[Maverick Meds]

wow. wasn't sure what I would find on this site when I joined. Great looking grow and technics. have recently switched to a purely soil mix after years of using both. I am always astounded at how much healthier my plants are now. Keep up the good work

 

[Team Microbe]

Dude the post on vapor pressure deficit. Very informative. Ty. You have raised some new questions in my head. See I live in the now bay and my humidity is high, but I get he same curling. But only near the light. I blamed this on high PAR. However this happens to be the only place in our rooms where the humidity is probably very low. Now I'm also certain this is because a lack of humidity. The buds are also smaller and frostier in the area very close to the light which is a known result of low humidity. It's a defense response to slow transpiration. However I still blame it on par because the rh in the rest of the room was like 60 percent. I need clip on hood fans

Ty again for the excellent posting team microbe. Learning new shit all the time.

Beautiful herb as well my friend.

Thanks bro, I learned it from Jeremy's thread over at GC here's the link to it:
http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-grow-journals/1341870-indoor-no-till-gardening-transition.html

It was a big eye opener to me, I think his article on VPD is on page 8 if you scroll down half way to the bottom you'll see it there. Dude you know what I just learned today? That what you said is completely right. The plant I used in the pic was under one of my hoods so it only made it worse. Someone slightly corrected me on another forum today and said this:

"I think the curling of the leaves is more a physical morphological phenomena due to stress from the high VPD and therefore sever water loss. I'm pretty sure the plan is not trying to block out light per say, as it is the stoma that controls water loss. The higher the water loss the more the stomata closes. The majority of stomata is on the underside of the leaf. The curling of the leaf is actually damage from heat arising from excess light energy that occurs under optimal conditions as well. But when the leaf can't cool itself down through transpiration because of closed stomata, that heat becomes damaging hence the curling of the leaf blades."

I thought that was pretty interesting. Btw thank you for the kind words brother

 

[Team Microbe]

If the Cheese dominates the cross, you might need a cheese reference first then something seismic and finally a Hollister landmark. I hazard the guess cheese dom. Revenge FTW.

haha yeah we'll have to see what she tastes like, it's probably going to be Cheesequake dominant because that was the mother. I like where this is goin...

 

[dickcorn]

I think I'm not the only one tryin g to get my environment a little better dialed after reading those posts. Very informative, thank you.

 

[Polygon]

Seismic Frost and Tectonic Cheese are my two very unoriginal names for your cheesequake cross... they aren't very good

Wanted to let ya know that I left the bottles for this grow out of the equation, aside from BioAg ful-power and have just been doing SST, freeze-dried coconut water, and Potassium silicate and have noticed a very, very positive reaction in my plants sitting in a 40% Peat, 30% perlite, 30% EWC w/slight ammendments mix. My fans are praying on veg and flowering plants and my trichome production and bud-size increased in a way I've never seen! I've worked in DWC, aeroponic and soil-less systems and have never seen my plants grow this well.

Another interesting note is that adding the above amendments in the recommended amounts from buildasoil balances my Ph to 6.7 which is damn near ideal, even if that doesn't matter too much in a full organic set-up, it's still noteworthy. After doing doing so many fucky methods I've become a Ph checker and now I'm leaving the pen behind.

My next soil is a full-out clackamas coot style no-till with a mix of yours- the soil is mixed and ready for the new 2k 5x10 flower room with the 7-gals. I hate to bite someones style so hard, but it makes too much sense and the results so far are astounding- thanks again man!

 

[Lester Moore]

call it what you want but in my mind it will be .....San Andreas cheese. (milk those girls!)

 

[Team Microbe]

Seismic Frost and Tectonic Cheese are my two very unoriginal names for your cheesequake cross... they aren't very good

Wanted to let ya know that I left the bottles for this grow out of the equation, aside from BioAg ful-power and have just been doing SST, freeze-dried coconut water, and Potassium silicate and have noticed a very, very positive reaction in my plants sitting in a 40% Peat, 30% perlite, 30% EWC w/slight ammendments mix. My fans are praying on veg and flowering plants and my trichome production and bud-size increased in a way I've never seen! I've worked in DWC, aeroponic and soil-less systems and have never seen my plants grow this well.

Another interesting note is that adding the above amendments in the recommended amounts from buildasoil balances my Ph to 6.7 which is damn near ideal, even if that doesn't matter too much in a full organic set-up, it's still noteworthy. After doing doing so many fucky methods I've become a Ph checker and now I'm leaving the pen behind.

My next soil is a full-out clackamas coot style no-till with a mix of yours- the soil is mixed and ready for the new 2k 5x10 flower room with the 7-gals. I hate to bite someones style so hard, but it makes too much sense and the results so far are astounding- thanks again man!

Hearing feedback like this always makes me smile man, so good to hear! That FulPower is the only bottle I use too, and doesn't exactly fit the category that the majority of other bottles fall into in my mind since it's completely organic. Even "organic" bottled nutrient regimens aren't truly organic, so it's funny that they're labeled under that label to me.

You sound like me a few months back when I noticed the rapid increase in plant health from this soil & watering regimen - after all the years of hydro and pH fluctuation you learn that the K.I.S.S. method is best... go figure

Dude bite away - it's more like a shared science among the organic community because I didn't invent any of these recipe's or regimens, they're just tried and true and that word gets around quite fast when someone wants to share the secret to their success. It's a very selfless feeling, you just want to help everyone achieve similar results because it makes you such a happy grower when the garden is reaching peak potential. You're gonna kill it in that Coots Mix! If you have the extra soil I'd even go up to 10 gallon pots brother, the bigger the roots the bigger the fruits..

 

[Team Microbe]

Fall colors - Day 78

Fall colors - Day 78

Cheesequake x Hollister Kush (still unnamed)

Lower

Senescence <3

Another lower

I was thinking about some names for this strain the other night:

-Kush Quake
-Cheese Louise
-Aftershock
-San Andraes Crack

Any other suggestions folks?


The aloe is doing well, it's finally rooted woohooooo! I'll be using this as clone gel and in a puree for drenches

 

[Team Microbe]

Silver Lotus #2 comparison from week 2 - week 10

Silver Lotus #2 lowers

Silver Lotus #1

#1 again

Crazy calyxes in this SSH dom pheno (#1)

 

[Team Microbe]

Sicilian Revenge by TG

Another shot of the S.R. tucked in the corner of the 5x10 tent

CVK

CVK lowers finishing out here... a little purple hue goin on here for this girl.


Question:

Is it possible to take plants TOO long into flower? I'd like to hear peoples' opinions on this one, and if dead or dying leaves can have a negative impact on fungus susceptibility and whatnot.

Also, how late into senescence do you like take your plants? Full fade? Partial fade? Or do you focus on the trichomes? I always like hearing what other people are doing and why they do it, I've never fully looked into this area myself

 

[GreeeeN GRassss]

another great thread i have to read over.

super looking plants

 

[intotheunknown]

Nah I'm actually seeing the opposite, some are only hitting late stages of senescence this week... while others have yet to begin fading. I applied a fungal dom compost tea at day 30 of flowering, so that may be why these are going to take longer to finish. I've heard that it's genetic as well, like some will tend to fade more than others type of thing.

What do you think? And is there anything that would help aid in senescence?

The reason I ask this question, is I use a nearly identical soil mix that you use...
The only real difference is I started with 1 cup amendments instead of the half cup that you use, with excellent results.
I have been running experiments where I bump the amendment measurements up just slightly and record the differences I see in doing so.
The more that is added, the quicker Im seeing senescence each time, even running side by sides with the same strain. Just a personal experiment, to in fact see if it was genetics, environment, etc. that caused this is some cases early on in flower.
Now in discovering this thread and seeing what youre doing, Ive almost confirmed this to be an issue with what I have explained.

Just thought Id run that by you, without any factual evidence such as a soil test, This is what Im seeing just running side by sides.
But it looks to me that youve got that number @ 1/2 cups each just about right on the money.

 

[Team Microbe]

The reason I ask this question, is I use a nearly identical soil mix that you use...
The only real difference is I started with 1 cup amendments instead of the half cup that you use, with excellent results.
I have been running experiments where I bump the amendment measurements up just slightly and record the differences I see in doing so.
The more that is added, the quicker Im seeing senescence each time, even running side by sides with the same strain. Just a personal experiment, to in fact see if it was genetics, environment, etc. that caused this is some cases early on in flower.
Now in discovering this thread and seeing what youre doing, Ive almost confirmed this to be an issue with what I have explained.

Just thought Id run that by you, without any factual evidence such as a soil test, This is what Im seeing just running side by sides.
But it looks to me that youve got that number @ 1/2 cups each just about right on the money.

No way man, really? That's an epic side-by-side, I love hearing people's results in these kind of experiments! I wonder what about a hotter mix that pushes plants into earlier senescence? That's pretty interesting... maybe someone can help us on this one?

The mix I used in this run was actually cut down strength-wise by Jeremy after consulting with Clackamas Coots - they completely took out the fish bone meal and don't think that Phosphorus is that important I suppose. I have yet to try the new "cooler" mix, but will be using it for my next run - so I'll take note of the clones that were run in this mix and see how the lighter CC mix effects the onsets of fading. If you're observations hold true, this would mean that senescence will onset later than these girls.

Of course, there are environmental factors at play here too - I know in the summer my humidity was 50% and now that winter's in full swing I'm looking at 20% RH which affects the efficiency of photosynthesis and the rest of the plant processes.. so there's really a lack of a control on my end until I dial in my environment. I wonder if the low humidity that slows photosynthesis (vapor pressure deficit) slows the onset of senescence as well? It almost makes sense to me... another interesting theory to think about

 

[Team Microbe]

another great thread i have to read over.

super looking plants

Thanks brother!

 

[Thechewmaster]

Trichomes

I personally have had great results and comments with mostly white and a few amber ones. I feel many people pull too early, but that's just me.

 

[Kozmo]

Now I kind of wish I didn't put that Fish bone meal in last night. Lol