Has anyone noticed that the mites come after using molasses? I had a few mites this year and can't remember if they showed up before or after the molasses.
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Spider mites AKA The Borg
- Thread starter Flowerman
- Start date
TahoeDoubleOG
New member
All Natural Miticide for Spider Mites
All Natural Miticide for Spider Mites
Try Middleton's Spider Miticide on eBay it's ready to use with all natural ingredients. It kills all mites from egg to adult $5.99. I will answer any questions you may have this is not spam this product works
All Natural Miticide for Spider Mites
Try Middleton's Spider Miticide on eBay it's ready to use with all natural ingredients. It kills all mites from egg to adult $5.99. I will answer any questions you may have this is not spam this product works
SpiderMite
Member
Yeah, I say keep it all natural. Just pick one natural product and keep using it, rotating treatments doesn't really help much they don't build tolerance very fast at all. Also they hate high temps and low humidity. Their life cycle is long, like 4 weeks so you don't even have to hit them but every week or so at most. They are super weak anyway and tend not to harm the plant much especially in flower.
Trust me I should know, I am a SpiderMite after all... lol
P.S. I eat predator mites for lunch so don't even think about them.
Trust me I should know, I am a SpiderMite after all... lol
P.S. I eat predator mites for lunch so don't even think about them.
SpiderMite,
Regardless of your handle, it is best to alternate products to avoid creating resistant strains. Mites can devastate crops at any stage. Spraying often [I prefer dunking] is best, if you want to eradicate rather than merely control, and you can finish the job much sooner. Applying often kills hatchlings before they can lay eggs, stopping the infestation in its tracks. Predator mites work very well if you don't wait till the Spidermite numbers are so high that the predators can't keep up.
The advice you just gave is the exact opposite of the good advice you gave in the "Fuck the borg have arrived" thread. What gives? Good luck. -granger
Regardless of your handle, it is best to alternate products to avoid creating resistant strains. Mites can devastate crops at any stage. Spraying often [I prefer dunking] is best, if you want to eradicate rather than merely control, and you can finish the job much sooner. Applying often kills hatchlings before they can lay eggs, stopping the infestation in its tracks. Predator mites work very well if you don't wait till the Spidermite numbers are so high that the predators can't keep up.
The advice you just gave is the exact opposite of the good advice you gave in the "Fuck the borg have arrived" thread. What gives? Good luck. -granger
SpiderMite
Member
Yeah man, I was acting as if I was a SpiderMite...
Giving the exact opposite advice one would need to kill "me"...
That is what I was trying to say when I said:
"Trust me I should know, I am a SpiderMite after all... lol"
Self preservation being what it is and all, thought it might be funny but should have been more clear... or maybe more ridiculously over the top...
Peace man,
P.S. I pour Floramite on my cereal in morning with a few dashes of Tetrasan 5WDG so don't even think about coming up in here with those weak ass products! Haha
Giving the exact opposite advice one would need to kill "me"...
That is what I was trying to say when I said:
"Trust me I should know, I am a SpiderMite after all... lol"
Self preservation being what it is and all, thought it might be funny but should have been more clear... or maybe more ridiculously over the top...
Peace man,
P.S. I pour Floramite on my cereal in morning with a few dashes of Tetrasan 5WDG so don't even think about coming up in here with those weak ass products! Haha
SpiderMite
Member
Oh, and just a heads up to everyone (especially newbies) that this dude is just pushing product. I called him out on another site and just saw him pushing the same company here... and being called on it by yet another person.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=55259&page=87
SpiderMite
Member
Dude, I have never said how "great" chemicals are. The primary products I use in rotation are Azamax, spinosad, neem, habanero water, and once right before flower if mites are bad it is acceptable to use Floramite assuming an 8 week + flower time. No Pest Strips can also be used if growing away from any living space. But only until about 1 week into flower. The first treatment/products I mentioned should be enough to eradicate mites. The balance are for bad infestations.
You are being childish. And, we both know you have to continue on this path. You need to promote your products after all...
You are being childish. And, we both know you have to continue on this path. You need to promote your products after all...
SpiderMite
Member
I could give a damn what "chemicals" or not people choose. I respect people trying to eradicate mites organically. I tried for months, the best result was mites gone for several weeks then come right back, even with continued application. The OMRI listed organic chemicals I listed are required to beat resistant mites.
Dichlorvos, the active ingredient in NPS has a half life of about 6 hours and dissipates very quickly once any kind of ventilation is turned on. It can be very dangerous while it is being deployed, thus my previous warning. There is no way it will be present in the finished buds.
Never said word one about you being borderline retarded. Can't recall insulting you at all.
I also never claimed to know exactly what your relationship to the company is only that it is obvious there is one and don't appreciate you bad mouthing almost all other products only for the purpose of providing your "solution"... It is bad form, and is not helping those who are seeking genuine advice.
Dichlorvos, the active ingredient in NPS has a half life of about 6 hours and dissipates very quickly once any kind of ventilation is turned on. It can be very dangerous while it is being deployed, thus my previous warning. There is no way it will be present in the finished buds.
Never said word one about you being borderline retarded. Can't recall insulting you at all.
I also never claimed to know exactly what your relationship to the company is only that it is obvious there is one and don't appreciate you bad mouthing almost all other products only for the purpose of providing your "solution"... It is bad form, and is not helping those who are seeking genuine advice.
G
Gifted0ne
..................................
SpiderMite
Member
Man you are one dense person.
I am saying you recommend the same products for everything. And, make sure you provide not only the product name but the company name and website link in many instances. It reeks of promotion and alterior motive.
Your recommendations are biased beyond all belief, and you should be assumed to have zero credibility.
That is what I am saying.
Whether the products work in some applications is not the topic at hand. The topic is the fact you recommend them and only them for almost everything while smack talking most anything else.
Please, prove me wrong (I mean it). You would do this by giving objective unbiased advice going forward. Would love to see it, I am not holding my breath though.
I am saying you recommend the same products for everything. And, make sure you provide not only the product name but the company name and website link in many instances. It reeks of promotion and alterior motive.
Your recommendations are biased beyond all belief, and you should be assumed to have zero credibility.
That is what I am saying.
Whether the products work in some applications is not the topic at hand. The topic is the fact you recommend them and only them for almost everything while smack talking most anything else.
Please, prove me wrong (I mean it). You would do this by giving objective unbiased advice going forward. Would love to see it, I am not holding my breath though.
SpiderMite
Member
Ok, sorry fellas (and girls) for taking part in hijacking the thread. 
The way I attack mites is to first hit them with a contact killer like Habanero water, liquid ladybug, or mighty wash (I use homemade Habanero water). Then hit them in 2-3 days with a systemic (neem drench or azamax). After that use something like spinosad, then come back and hit them with neem or azamax (whichever you didn't use the first time).
If you rotate the treatments and get under the leaves as well as a good drenching of the plant you should be rid of them within 3 weeks or so... just rotate, rotate, rotate... You won't kill them with one product (for long anyway).
If they are stubborn and possibly "resistant" mites you may need to resort to nuclear options. Floramite is expensive stuff but can be found on eBay in 1 oz bottles for about $20. If you are approaching flower or about to flip and still have mites one application of floramite will keep them controlled for at least 4 weeks.
No pest strips are controversial, but if you are growing away from living quarters they can be used up to the 12/12 flip or as much as 1 week into flower (if necessary). They do work very well but lose their "potency" fast, much like a car pine air freshener does. I use them for no more than 36-48 hours at a time then seal them back up in a ziplock bag for later use. After 2 weeks of "out of bag use" I will add an additional NPS when in use. These work great in rotation with other treatments in veg.
For the Habanero water I simmer (never boil) about 15 habanero peppers in about 2 quarts of water for 20-30 minutes. Then strain out the water and freeze the used peppers for a later batch (with added fresh ones). Use about half of this mix into 1 gallon of solution and spray liberally, it will kill all the mites it hits in the garden. Add several drops of insecticidal soap as a wetting agent for added killing power.
Peace,
SM
The way I attack mites is to first hit them with a contact killer like Habanero water, liquid ladybug, or mighty wash (I use homemade Habanero water). Then hit them in 2-3 days with a systemic (neem drench or azamax). After that use something like spinosad, then come back and hit them with neem or azamax (whichever you didn't use the first time).
If you rotate the treatments and get under the leaves as well as a good drenching of the plant you should be rid of them within 3 weeks or so... just rotate, rotate, rotate... You won't kill them with one product (for long anyway).
If they are stubborn and possibly "resistant" mites you may need to resort to nuclear options. Floramite is expensive stuff but can be found on eBay in 1 oz bottles for about $20. If you are approaching flower or about to flip and still have mites one application of floramite will keep them controlled for at least 4 weeks.
No pest strips are controversial, but if you are growing away from living quarters they can be used up to the 12/12 flip or as much as 1 week into flower (if necessary). They do work very well but lose their "potency" fast, much like a car pine air freshener does. I use them for no more than 36-48 hours at a time then seal them back up in a ziplock bag for later use. After 2 weeks of "out of bag use" I will add an additional NPS when in use. These work great in rotation with other treatments in veg.
For the Habanero water I simmer (never boil) about 15 habanero peppers in about 2 quarts of water for 20-30 minutes. Then strain out the water and freeze the used peppers for a later batch (with added fresh ones). Use about half of this mix into 1 gallon of solution and spray liberally, it will kill all the mites it hits in the garden. Add several drops of insecticidal soap as a wetting agent for added killing power.
Peace,
SM
mik'
Member
the problem be that the spider can stay alive long in a tiny space... the worse I've seen be 2 YEARS ! After a large attack of red spider throw 12 plants on 19. The remaining 7 were not very nice ..... Logic .
There was 1 YEAR treatment, Predator for 3 MONTHS, Neem and ect. No great victory 
Identical with chilli and garlic as pepper mint soap . The phenomenon decreases but very difficult to kill. After 2 years (without culture in same appart.) and a change of culture room in another apartment just HPS bulb and ballast were to keep, ONLY ! ! ! ! everything else was throwing. When we turn on the HPS bulb and ballast (totally clean with alcohol 70° and bleach several times ) It took 20 days for the Spider are present 
In a totally hermetic room is treated before
Identical with chilli and garlic as pepper mint soap . The phenomenon decreases but very difficult to kill. After 2 years (without culture in same appart.) and a change of culture room in another apartment just HPS bulb and ballast were to keep, ONLY ! ! ! ! everything else was throwing. When we turn on the HPS bulb and ballast (totally clean with alcohol 70° and bleach several times ) It took 20 days for the Spider are present In a totally hermetic room is treated before With a powerful microscope and removing the ballast we saw he had STILL tiny eggs Spider in the ballast there ! ! ! ! ! ! !
stay for 2 YEARS ! ! ! ! ! ! righteous because of old ballast and bulb it was still a disaster eggs can stay long in the house or apartment and wait a very long time .....
To understand the phenomenon a friend placed his cool tube in a dishwasher .... great heat and great hot tube cleaning cool !
At the end of the dishwasher not all were destroyed oreufs ! ! ! ! ! ! the smallest hidden in smaller banks were still white. Not all destroyed... we even test a super toxic smoke . Tightly closing the apartment for 24 hours . We put 2 of 50m3 each smoke into the room culture & the second in the living room of the apartment. And the whole apartment was only 58m2...
Even with 24 hours of the smoke spider were not all destroyed
Even with 24 hours of the smoke spider were not all destroyed
This is MONSTROUS Real crap....
I live in a warm climate , no winter snow here never cold ! not too shabby way was to move the plants to alcohol 60° ( diffile and to avoid damaging delicate plants ! ) then rinse with water. After passing juice red pepper / garlic / soap ... weekly alcohol and water, Rinse + 2 weekly Pepper / garlic / soap same flowering except for alcohol of course !
Being asse effective but not reap miracle solution. Eggs may even be in the curtains.. in wood (furniture)...in HOUSE... ECT !
Very difficult to manage !
even large international companies with a lot of dollars lost entire crops with these mites crap...
When people explain I kill the spider easy red = Be very nice for them ! but in hot countries asse things can become a nightmare...
all the material culture may contain eggs ! ! !
And obviously they can wait even 2 YEARS without problem ! ! !
Mik'...........your post above just scared the shit outa me and was super informative. Thanx for the blunt truth.
I just flipped my 24x GG#4's 9 days ago and they are just about to unleash the first flower clusters. Then I see the classic white marks on a few bottom fans and BOOM! Spider Mites!
I now think since I packed up my whole flower room and put it in the veg room for 2 weeks, maybe they got into my ballast or a/c or sumthing.
So now Im gonna bomb the room, wash off all plants in the shower, and then spray them 1x with floramite or sumthing like it, before they start to throw flower clusters. There isnt alot of them so it should be easy to kill them off for good. I got rid of the "nest plant" that had most of them on the bottom fans. They got sprayed 2x with Capt Jacks w/ Spinosad over the last 2 weeks which slowed them down abit, so this should be the last 1,2 punch.
I just flipped my 24x GG#4's 9 days ago and they are just about to unleash the first flower clusters. Then I see the classic white marks on a few bottom fans and BOOM! Spider Mites!
I now think since I packed up my whole flower room and put it in the veg room for 2 weeks, maybe they got into my ballast or a/c or sumthing.
So now Im gonna bomb the room, wash off all plants in the shower, and then spray them 1x with floramite or sumthing like it, before they start to throw flower clusters. There isnt alot of them so it should be easy to kill them off for good. I got rid of the "nest plant" that had most of them on the bottom fans. They got sprayed 2x with Capt Jacks w/ Spinosad over the last 2 weeks which slowed them down abit, so this should be the last 1,2 punch.
id do a spray.. and bomb the place.. bombing it this early into flower is your best bet honestly.. good luck.. id just make sure its spidermites and not thrips because thrips are easy to get rid of . and u wont need to use some of the nasties you will use for spidermites if u want them gone ASAP..
Highdroponic
New member
great info! Thank You!
Mik, What triggers dormant eggs to hatch?
N
noyd666
can see SPECKLING ON LEAVES.
