Spanishwilly
Member
Spider hey? Do you just get one from outdoors, or do you use a pet-shop type spider?
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Spider mites AKA The Borg
- Thread starter Flowerman
- Start date
Spider hey? Do you just get one from outdoors, or do you use a pet-shop type spider?
datura_kid
Member
i checked my babies throughly and i know mites are tiny but didnt see one moving thing, and people say they are roaming around...i just see eggs which i believe are from spider mites, tinny little white dots ranging from really tiny to bigger not so tiny but mostly really really tiny, that i have mistaken them for plants leaf hairs cuz i never saw spider mites.
i sprayed them with detergent/oil mix 2 days ago and just bought insecticide "KARATE ZEON" with lambda-cihalotrin as active ingridient because i couldnt find any of here recommended products liek floramite, avid, azamax or alike, and dude in store recommended this, he says it has really wide spectrum and does not harm the plant, and its hard stuff i guess cuz its mixing 1 ml per 10 L of water. It says its used on all sorts of plants from leafy to fruits and vegetables, grapes...
so can anyone confirm that this would be ok to use?
i sprayed them with detergent/oil mix 2 days ago and just bought insecticide "KARATE ZEON" with lambda-cihalotrin as active ingridient because i couldnt find any of here recommended products liek floramite, avid, azamax or alike, and dude in store recommended this, he says it has really wide spectrum and does not harm the plant, and its hard stuff i guess cuz its mixing 1 ml per 10 L of water. It says its used on all sorts of plants from leafy to fruits and vegetables, grapes...
so can anyone confirm that this would be ok to use?
psychogrowing
New member
GRREAT ARTICLE YOU WROTE. NICE WORK!
After reading through this entire great thread, seems like everyone has good things to say about Floramite. I wanted to try it out but went to the grow store and the guy told me its regulated in Canada and can’t get over the counter. Since then I found it on ebay, thanks to this thread. He also said that its some potent shit but that you can risk losing 10% yield by using this which i was surprised to hear but haven't been able to validate his statement. Anyone have any experience or thoughts about this before i order? I found it on ebay but now I’m wondering if I should even bother after he told me about losing yield. My goal is to do my best to contain / eliminate this threat using the most effective means possible but not risking losing valuable yields. Is this possible? Repetitive CO2 baths are also an option for me.
Should I do a few CO2 baths first before applying the sprays? Which method would diminish yields the least in your opinion?
I’m nervous because from what I’ve read it seems that the sprays clog the stomata and and can affect growth. Some people recommend showering off with water afterwards to try and rinse and declog the stomata so that they can once again inhale CO2 so I guess this would theoretically slow growth but perhaps no more than the chemical sprays?
What are your thoughts or recommendations?
Should I do a few CO2 baths first before applying the sprays? Which method would diminish yields the least in your opinion?
I’m nervous because from what I’ve read it seems that the sprays clog the stomata and and can affect growth. Some people recommend showering off with water afterwards to try and rinse and declog the stomata so that they can once again inhale CO2 so I guess this would theoretically slow growth but perhaps no more than the chemical sprays?
What are your thoughts or recommendations?
Ended up getting Ecosense and now i ahve Einstein oil and Penetrator as well. When do I spray? I've heard all different things. I'm using air cooled glass encased lights but I've heard anything from 15-20 mins before light sout, 15-20 before lights on, only when lights out, etc.
When is the correct time to spray? This is my first time and don't want to screw it up
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Sprayed a few hrs before lights on and it worked great with this combo! no light burn whatsoever and I used my green LED head lamp to minimize disturbance while they were sleeping...
When is the correct time to spray? This is my first time and don't want to screw it up
-----------------------
Sprayed a few hrs before lights on and it worked great with this combo! no light burn whatsoever and I used my green LED head lamp to minimize disturbance while they were sleeping...
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kamezzle13
New member
how bad is the ph of the tobacco tea going to be off? i have some soaking right now, i didnt see anybody write anything about adjusting the ph, but i assume i should before spraying my plant with it, right?
i wanted to come back and comment that after a week of sprayings twice a day, some tobacco tea (dumped the guts of a couple blunts into 2 pints of water, soaked over night, boiled for a few mins) worked like a charm. I only had two plants, and a buncha seedlings, but they all seemed to be on a healthy recovery.
i wanted to come back and comment that after a week of sprayings twice a day, some tobacco tea (dumped the guts of a couple blunts into 2 pints of water, soaked over night, boiled for a few mins) worked like a charm. I only had two plants, and a buncha seedlings, but they all seemed to be on a healthy recovery.
Citizen024
Member
Intlplayr: Your guy is wrong about the 10% yield loss. It doesn't even phase your plants one bit if used proper (3ml/gal).
The only catch with Floramite: you gotta hit em. ALL of em. If it doesn't touch them (eggs, adults, etc) they will not all go bye bye. And in a week or two you will see mites. Your also starting to breed resistant mites. You have to spray under the leaves everywhere. As such, Floramite is best used in veg, and within the first 2 weeks of flower. After that it is hard to get them all, and your getting it all over your flowers.
There is one more very effective miticide: Forbid. It ROCKS!! It is transfolfiar, meaning it goes through the leaf. You only need to spray all the tops of the leaves. And it lasts 4-6 weeks before they return. It is money!! Same hazard catagory as Floramite.
My new thing is: dip in Avid at the clone stage (if needed). Never use Avid again. Floramite (if needed) in veg with Azatrol. Then clean out all the under growth, and transplant to flowering. Floramite/Azatrol as they go into flowering.
2-3 weeks later, I hit em with Forbid. 3 DROPS to 2 liters. No more!! Now with flowers forming it is much easier to use Forbid since Floramite is a contact only killer. And because your switching it up on the mites it is harder for them to resist.
Should they show up towards the end- Dr. DoRight's every other day up to the week of harvest. It is very safe, 100% organic. It is not the most effective mite killer, but it does take em down some (your just keeping them from running rampant at this point). Plus there is no fear of damaging flowers or ruining flavor.
I HIGHLY recommend a fogger over a sprayer. Much more effective coverage, no pumping, and it leaves just a fine film of whatever your spraying. It reduces the amount of spray you use by about 100%. Plus since your not soaking your flowers, no risk of budrot from a foliar even late in flowering. I use a Fogmaster Jr. best $100 I have spent.
I have battled mites with everything, and unless you can completely clean out your area and what not, mites will return. And the organic controls work, but you have to do it all the time, and if you don't they will have thier revenge. In larger gardens the time factor for organic controls is too much. There is no choice but miticides. They are fine to use, as long as your giving them time to breakdown and using them properly. Rotate products, keep your plants well groomed, and keep your garden CLEAN and you can keep the mites at bay fairly well.
Just stay on em, cause they are nearly impossible to completely wipe out in anything more then a 1kw garden.
The only catch with Floramite: you gotta hit em. ALL of em. If it doesn't touch them (eggs, adults, etc) they will not all go bye bye. And in a week or two you will see mites. Your also starting to breed resistant mites. You have to spray under the leaves everywhere. As such, Floramite is best used in veg, and within the first 2 weeks of flower. After that it is hard to get them all, and your getting it all over your flowers.
There is one more very effective miticide: Forbid. It ROCKS!! It is transfolfiar, meaning it goes through the leaf. You only need to spray all the tops of the leaves. And it lasts 4-6 weeks before they return. It is money!! Same hazard catagory as Floramite.
My new thing is: dip in Avid at the clone stage (if needed). Never use Avid again. Floramite (if needed) in veg with Azatrol. Then clean out all the under growth, and transplant to flowering. Floramite/Azatrol as they go into flowering.
2-3 weeks later, I hit em with Forbid. 3 DROPS to 2 liters. No more!! Now with flowers forming it is much easier to use Forbid since Floramite is a contact only killer. And because your switching it up on the mites it is harder for them to resist.
Should they show up towards the end- Dr. DoRight's every other day up to the week of harvest. It is very safe, 100% organic. It is not the most effective mite killer, but it does take em down some (your just keeping them from running rampant at this point). Plus there is no fear of damaging flowers or ruining flavor.
I HIGHLY recommend a fogger over a sprayer. Much more effective coverage, no pumping, and it leaves just a fine film of whatever your spraying. It reduces the amount of spray you use by about 100%. Plus since your not soaking your flowers, no risk of budrot from a foliar even late in flowering. I use a Fogmaster Jr. best $100 I have spent.
I have battled mites with everything, and unless you can completely clean out your area and what not, mites will return. And the organic controls work, but you have to do it all the time, and if you don't they will have thier revenge. In larger gardens the time factor for organic controls is too much. There is no choice but miticides. They are fine to use, as long as your giving them time to breakdown and using them properly. Rotate products, keep your plants well groomed, and keep your garden CLEAN and you can keep the mites at bay fairly well.
Just stay on em, cause they are nearly impossible to completely wipe out in anything more then a 1kw garden.
Hello Mite-Fighting-Jedi,
Long story short, I got "owned" by spider mites. Initially, as it turns out, I brought in an outdoor plant that had the mites on it already , and that's how I got "mited" in the first place.
My grow room has been dark and empty (no plants in it) for a couple weeks now. I've done the standard cleanup routine, vacuumed, and wiped down tables (with various cleaning products.)
1. What else can I do to destroy any remaining mites? I'd really like to stay away from "bombing" or "fuming" this room.
2. I have a ~40 gal soil reservoir that I use to "recycle" used 'soil'. It has been dry for about a month. I'm worried that the reservoir may be harboring dormant nasties (eggs maybe). Should I treat this big soil container with something (maybe a mite-killing product made from garlic oil or similar), and then maybe rehabilitate that container with bacterial amendments?
I'm eager to get the show on the road again, but I fear that being hasty will only lead to more anger and pain.
Thanks everyone.
Long story short, I got "owned" by spider mites. Initially, as it turns out, I brought in an outdoor plant that had the mites on it already , and that's how I got "mited" in the first place.
My grow room has been dark and empty (no plants in it) for a couple weeks now. I've done the standard cleanup routine, vacuumed, and wiped down tables (with various cleaning products.)
1. What else can I do to destroy any remaining mites? I'd really like to stay away from "bombing" or "fuming" this room.
2. I have a ~40 gal soil reservoir that I use to "recycle" used 'soil'. It has been dry for about a month. I'm worried that the reservoir may be harboring dormant nasties (eggs maybe). Should I treat this big soil container with something (maybe a mite-killing product made from garlic oil or similar), and then maybe rehabilitate that container with bacterial amendments?
I'm eager to get the show on the road again, but I fear that being hasty will only lead to more anger and pain.
Thanks everyone.
Citizen024
Member
Mr.Baker: actually leaving your lights on a your room warm will mess with them more then shutting down. Why? Cause they go dormant thinking winter has set in. Soon as you turn it back on. . blammo.
Your on the right track with your cleaning, sounds good there.
Bombs are a nice theory- but so many mites now are resistant to P-bombs your not assured of much. I watched mine laugh at the bombs. At $25 a bomb. . not to worth it.
Now your soil is another story. There you might have a real problem. If there is even so much as 1 egg, the borg will grow again! Bastards! Garlic etc doesn't kill eggs, and you'd probably mess up your soil with all that stuff in it. If you can the best bet would be to run it through a compost cycle (bacteria, fungus, and most importantly HEAT!). You could risk it, but they might return.
Honestly- I have had to concede that the bitches are there and I simply have to control them. WHICH SUCKS ASS!!!!!!
I would treat the fuck out of your new plants, and don't be afraid to floramite. Even if your don't see em. Run a round. Then maybe you will have vanquished them. The dynamics of your room play into it a lot. If you can truly clean the room, all your gear, everything spotless, you might have a chance. The bigger the space, the more likely one or two will have gotten through your efforts.. . and .. well ..
Your on the right track with your cleaning, sounds good there.
Bombs are a nice theory- but so many mites now are resistant to P-bombs your not assured of much. I watched mine laugh at the bombs. At $25 a bomb. . not to worth it.
Now your soil is another story. There you might have a real problem. If there is even so much as 1 egg, the borg will grow again! Bastards! Garlic etc doesn't kill eggs, and you'd probably mess up your soil with all that stuff in it. If you can the best bet would be to run it through a compost cycle (bacteria, fungus, and most importantly HEAT!). You could risk it, but they might return.
Honestly- I have had to concede that the bitches are there and I simply have to control them. WHICH SUCKS ASS!!!!!!
I would treat the fuck out of your new plants, and don't be afraid to floramite. Even if your don't see em. Run a round. Then maybe you will have vanquished them. The dynamics of your room play into it a lot. If you can truly clean the room, all your gear, everything spotless, you might have a chance. The bigger the space, the more likely one or two will have gotten through your efforts.. . and .. well ..
Hello all,
I have not read the whole thread but has there been any discussion on integrated pest management prorgrams and the rotation of miticides?
It seems that as wonderful as Floramite is the persistant use of Floramite will result in Superborg.
It seems as though we are looking for a sure thing the first time and I think this approach is frought with complications.
The goal of total eradication can be achieved but persistant use of a single method on surviving populations will only result in resistant mites.
An integrated pest management system uses a minimum of 3 different chemical methods each chemical killing in a different way so that resistance buildup is low. Rotation of these chemicals is key.
At the moment, the front chemical runners are forbid, avid and of course floramite. Also soem use declorvis as well.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
minds_I
I have not read the whole thread but has there been any discussion on integrated pest management prorgrams and the rotation of miticides?
It seems that as wonderful as Floramite is the persistant use of Floramite will result in Superborg.
It seems as though we are looking for a sure thing the first time and I think this approach is frought with complications.
The goal of total eradication can be achieved but persistant use of a single method on surviving populations will only result in resistant mites.
An integrated pest management system uses a minimum of 3 different chemical methods each chemical killing in a different way so that resistance buildup is low. Rotation of these chemicals is key.
At the moment, the front chemical runners are forbid, avid and of course floramite. Also soem use declorvis as well.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
minds_I
A small video clip of how the "phytoseiulus persimilis" (predator mite) handles the borg.
http://www.nyttedyr.dk/video/spinderovmider1-2.wmv
A couple of CO2 treatments and the release of these guys got rid of the damn things altogether in my cab.
http://www.nyttedyr.dk/video/spinderovmider1-2.wmv
A couple of CO2 treatments and the release of these guys got rid of the damn things altogether in my cab.
W
whatissixbynine
.
Well - other than the discussion on pestacide rotation in this thread?
I take issue with your phrase "persistant use" and the thought this will lead to a super pestacide resistant bugs - and I would add Persistant INEFECTIVE or IMCOMPLEATE use, not leading to total eradication of the pest - THAT is what makes it possible for the bug to build up resistance. If they are all dead - and the eggs never hatch or reach maturity - that is an effective halt to whatever resistance they were trying to build.
the only reason to use any pestacide should be to control a pest. Application for fun and "shits and grins" isn't a good idea. IMO anyways.
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vprising909
Member
Neem oil is the way to go but it doesn't get rid of the eggs in the soil
L
LolaGal
killed em I did.
killed em I did.
I was so glad to get some Floramite recently from Ebay.
I had spider mites bad in bloom. I even tried predator mites persimillus whateveramacallit. No dice.
I could control them in veg with pyrethrins and neem products, but before I could finish flowering, buds were covered with webs.
I cleaned. sprayed walls, floors, everything with Floramite. Sprayed down with Safer 3 in 1.
Moved infested clones in bloom, sprayed with Floramite, sprayed again in 3 or 4 days.
They are gone. Even on the Moms. None to be seen. It is wonderful to have undamaged foliage again. Whoopie!
don't mess around like I did and lose a couple crops, and wind up with some crackly buds. The Floramite was great. They are gone.
It's been a month since I sprayed, I've kept temps high, lights on 24/7. No mites.
killed em I did.
I was so glad to get some Floramite recently from Ebay.
I had spider mites bad in bloom. I even tried predator mites persimillus whateveramacallit. No dice.
I could control them in veg with pyrethrins and neem products, but before I could finish flowering, buds were covered with webs.
I cleaned. sprayed walls, floors, everything with Floramite. Sprayed down with Safer 3 in 1.
Moved infested clones in bloom, sprayed with Floramite, sprayed again in 3 or 4 days.
They are gone. Even on the Moms. None to be seen. It is wonderful to have undamaged foliage again. Whoopie!
don't mess around like I did and lose a couple crops, and wind up with some crackly buds. The Floramite was great. They are gone.
It's been a month since I sprayed, I've kept temps high, lights on 24/7. No mites.
ya dude neem oil rocks, if it is hard warm it up in an electric kettle or something before mixing. I know Safers Soap makes a good type for easy mixing with water
But to get rid of the eggs in the soil i always do a soil drence at the same levels recommended for foliar spraying per gal.
This in combo rocks because the soil drench also gets in the plant so any surviving mites eat the leaves and die from the neem in them!!!!
Honestly this has worked for me every time. Never let it go to webbing like that tho.
Citizen024
Member
Trade off Floramite and Forbid. That way your changing it up on em. Forbid also goes straight from the top side of the leaf, making it really a really handy weapon on the first couple weeks of flowering when it is hard to get under every single bit of every single leaf. Floramite will only kill what it touches. They are both on the same level of hazardous materials, along with neem actually.
Azatrol or Azamax can be added to give em the neem on steroids beat down as well.
And if your feeling like want your plants to glow in the dark, dip clones in avid once and once only. Avid is on a more hazardous level, so I am not in favor of using it unless you absolutely must, and only then in early veg.
Azatrol or Azamax can be added to give em the neem on steroids beat down as well.
And if your feeling like want your plants to glow in the dark, dip clones in avid once and once only. Avid is on a more hazardous level, so I am not in favor of using it unless you absolutely must, and only then in early veg.
