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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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slownickel

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Pekacid is phosphoric acid. Not organic. Very rough on soil biology.

Calcium nitrate, pushes pH up greatly, not a great source of Ca at all. Impossible to think you are going to get enough Ca using Ca nitrate. Most gypsum is more than 2 grams per liter of water soluble.

Everyone that has tried using gypsum correctly have had great success. Those that have not caught on to the issue of getting balance correct from day 1 are lost.
 
J

jidoka

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Edit...again Denver is not going orgAnic. Salts in coco. Not my choice or method. But the numbers are educational
 
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slownickel

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jidoka said:
In practice I can get about 3-3.5 g/gal gypsum through the micro sprinklers. If I could do more I would
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It would really help the quality of your post if you would distinguish what you are discussing a bit more. Are all your recent comments referring to this Denver consulting biz you have on coco?

This thread really isn't about producing in Coco. It is about growing in soil.

As you are seeing in Coco, you are doing hydroponics. And as you can see, the big issue is how do you get enough Ca into hydroponics? The worlds foregone conclusion about hyroponics is that you can't.

Lots of folks were using dolomite to season their coco. Probably not a bad idea.

Is this drain to waste or recirculated?

A good Israeli friend of mine who is recently retired, used to produce hydroponic peppers and tomatoes. We have had this conversation many times on how to get Ca uptake in hydroponics, so this is not the first time this problem has been visited.

One method was to use gypsum rocks and a bit of fines along with calcium carbonate rock and a bit of fines and mix it into the mix of medium. The second would be to run good Ca chelates without synthetic N.

If I were in an established place like you are talking and I was draining to waste, I might think of top dressing with worm castings mixed with gypsum and maybe even a bit of calcium carbonate depending on pH of the water and what carbonate you have available.

I noted that you are trying to use Calcium nitrate. You are going to be pulling up way too much nitrate trying to get your Ca up high enough. There are a number of good chelates on the market that are based on amino acids. Some are pretty reasonable, obviously not the cost of nitrate either... but in this case, the cost is not really an issue if you can get the ppms of Ca up. Even with a lower analysis, a chelate may get better Calcium uptake than the nitrate form of Ca and not give you that super human growth either.
 
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jidoka

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I apologize if I wasn't clear and I will limit myself to soil. I personally grow soil with maybe 1or 2 non organic inputs

I would say first check Yara Liva cano3. Very different beast that provides measurable ca uptake every bit as fast as gypsum

Soil wise I prefer heavy with highish Cec. I shoot for sufficient levels of k and mg only. Then as much Ca as pH allows. Water it, occasional amino n to keep it green. Simple as can be
 
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reppin2c

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The tension around here is so thick you can cut it with a knife. I propose a brawl and I will be taking bets. Current odds are jidoka 1.25:1 because slownickel has 10 years on him lol

On a side note referring back to what limeygreen said I'll be going organic and the price difference is $400 roughly on 4 acres.

Edit Side note #2 gypsum FTW
 
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orechron

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Who's Yara? Sounds hot, def Scandinavian.

Reppin did you measure your pumpkin yet? I got a 500 pounder with just drip irrigation and one feed of pacific gro.

Anyone ever find anhydrous gypsum?
 
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Limeygreen

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Diamond K has a gypsum for drip applications, they also have tanks made for application of gypsum which I am pretty sure you could make yourself if you look at them.
 
Avenger

Avenger

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orechron said:
Who's Yara? Sounds hot, def Scandinavian.

Reppin did you measure your pumpkin yet? I got a 500 pounder with just drip irrigation and one feed of pacific gro.

Anyone ever find anhydrous gypsum?
Click to expand...

what is the perceived benefit of anhydrite over dihydrite?
 
E

EasyGoing

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I top dressed about a half acre of cannabis this year weekly. Wasn't that big of a job. You can't put enough ferts through drip lines for the outdoor beasts us cali boys grow.
 
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jidoka

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Avenger said:
what is the perceived benefit of anhydrite over dihydrite?
Click to expand...

It is a theory of Bill Cisneros. He believes the anhydrous is slower releasing. In that way he can use more since it won't leach stuff as fast. You go to heavy with Valufil or diamond k and you are fixing to leach k and/or mg

I have not found it so cannot say one way or the other.

It would be similar to using a combo of super triple and cal phos

Edit...oerch, that pumpkin looked hot. Seemed to be in perfect health. I am guessing nobody grows 500 lbs of biomass with an mj plant. Kinda makes a guy wonder about all this fertigation and spraying
 
O

orechron

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Thats why I'm interested in it. I've got a field next year that is 5 cec and I have to be more careful with gypsum use. Either I till some anhydrous in at the start or do small bump of diamond K.

That pumpkin came from a seed out of a 2030 pounder. One of the reasons it got that big with such little care. Going to put in some more work with it next year. People slow down to take pictures. I think most people don't know that they can get over a ton.
 
Shcrews

Shcrews

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EasyGoing said:
You can't put enough ferts through drip lines for the outdoor beasts us cali boys grow.
Click to expand...
we got easy double digits on a lot of plants this year with no fertilizer or topdressing at all, just water and a few foliar feedings. I'm still not sure that much extra nutrition is necessary to grow monsters, just good soil, genetics, and climate.
 
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jidoka

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IMG_1203.jpg

Those big blue cities...water, zero foliar and a couple of pg ferts. 100%organic depending on how you feel about micro sulfate.
 
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EasyGoing

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Shcrews said:
we got easy double digits on a lot of plants this year with no fertilizer or topdressing at all, just water and a few foliar feedings. I'm still not sure that much extra nutrition is necessary to grow monsters, just good soil, genetics, and climate.
Click to expand...

Been there, done that. Night and day difference. You can grow large plants without nutes no doubt. However if you are trying to reach your genetic potential, there is no other way than to fertilize.

I don't have one single fluffy nug this year. My sour D's are rock hard, wookies, ext. Every year in the past I harvest thinking ehhh, could of done better. This year, every time I pull a branch it's heavier than I expected. Really amazing year for me this year, and I attribute it to the fuck ton of nutrients i used this year. :tiphat:
 
Shcrews

Shcrews

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EasyGoing said:
Been there, done that. Night and day difference. You can grow large plants without nutes no doubt. However if you are trying to reach your genetic potential, there is no other way than to fertilize.

I don't have one single fluffy nug this year. My sour D's are rock hard, wookies, ext. Every year in the past I harvest thinking ehhh, could of done better. This year, every time I pull a branch it's heavier than I expected. Really amazing year for me this year, and I attribute it to the fuck ton of nutrients i used this year. :tiphat:
Click to expand...

i thought bud density is primarily influenced by genetics and sun exposure.

we also got bigger yield this year despite russets. big plants with terriffic density and trichome coverage. i attribute it mainly to good genetics and timing. of course there is always room for improvement but constant feeding is not a top priority in my eyes. .
 
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