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GonBush

Member
Some sites have their own unique problems, while others have no real problems and you have a good result first try.
If a grow fails at one site the first year, then don't necessarily abandon it, learn what you have to do to overcome the problem and try again next year.
Remember you can shape the alternatives.

I did a new spot this year, close to uban areas. First time I tried to grow in that area.
Infiltration was a problem as there were always cars and people around, and you don't know who is leo and who is not.
Being a new spot I didn't know it had a big rat problem, and they wiped out half the plants before I realised it and took precautions, then they didn't get anymore.

I also found some plants mysteriously died, leaves curled under, looked like a bad case of fertilizer burn, but it wasn't because it was only some plants and the rest showed no signs.
I was baffled as to what it could be until one day I went to check on them and found some of the area was flooded.
I thought that's strange as it hasn't rained for a while.
There was a creek close by so I went and checked it and found it had broken it's banks and flooded the area about ankle deep in the area where the plants had died.
Then I realised that the creek was tidal and at high tide the salt water flowed up the creek from the ocean and flooded some of the grow site.
So the plants had been killed by the salt water, hence the symptoms of fertilizer burn.

So I am going to do that spot next year, but with the intelligence I have gained from this year I can take steps to overcome those problems this year identified, and hope to have a good harvest next season, as that spot does have potential.
Will take a bit of work during the off season to get it ready though.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Some sites have their own unique problems, while others have no real problems and you have a good result first try.
If a grow fails at one site the first year, then don't necessarily abandon it, learn what you have to do to overcome the problem and try again next year.
Remember you can shape the alternatives.

I did a new spot this year, close to uban areas. First time I tried to grow in that area.
Infiltration was a problem as there were always cars and people around, and you don't know who is leo and who is not.
Being a new spot I didn't know it had a big rat problem, and they wiped out half the plants before I realised it and took precautions, then they didn't get anymore.

I also found some plants mysteriously died, leaves curled under, looked like a bad case of fertilizer burn, but it wasn't because it was only some plants and the rest showed no signs.
I was baffled as to what it could be until one day I went to check on them and found some of the area was flooded.
I thought that's strange as it hasn't rained for a while.
There was a creek close by so I went and checked it and found it had broken it's banks and flooded the area about ankle deep in the area where the plants had died.
Then I realised that the creek was tidal and at high tide the salt water flowed up the creek from the ocean and flooded some of the grow site.
So the plants had been killed by the salt water, hence the symptoms of fertilizer burn.

So I am going to do that spot next year, but with the intelligence I have gained from this year I can take steps to overcome those problems this year identified, and hope to have a good harvest next season, as that spot does have potential.
Will take a bit of work during the off season to get it ready though.

Thanks for stoppin in man! Great advice too... glad to have another guerrilla's perspective :tiphat:

I had some urban plots this year as well, one was found because my car was spotted by a State trooper exiting the woods. I wish I had a buddy to spot me exiting or if I had walked in on foot and not have been lazy I would've gotten all of my plants. The leo turned around but I was able to cut off on a side road and lose him before he caught up to me... I got home and immediately went out for trash bags because I knew those plants would be gone the next day if they weren't by that very same night. Well I went back and harvested 10/12, and went back a week later for the 2 sativas. They were ripped up and gone. I should've grabbed em while I was there that night!!

It's a bummer that those walls busted down and let in all that salt water man, I'm sorry to hear that. Good luck this year!


Can I ask you something though? Do you have any advice for carting in soil/amendments? I was thinking about a drop site with a camo tarp 100 feet from the road of my future spots but it really depends on the spot I suppose. My house is in a populated area so it takes an hour to get out to the secluded spots... what would you do if you were me? Make the drive? Or take your chances locally? I can't make up my mind...
 

locoezon

Member
One thing to remember with guerrilla growing is YOU CAN SHAPE THE ALTERNATIVES!
It is not all up to fate.

You can take steps to make your grow had to find.
I had one grow of 30 plants that you couldn't see from 5 metres away, someone had to walk right upon it to find it.
But I have come accross other peoples grows that are in a big clearing and you could see them from 100 metres away.
Scout the land well and find a good spot for a start.
Don't leave trails and make sure you don't get spotted coming and going from your grow area.

Knowing what pests are likely to attack your crop comes from experience growing in that area. Rats can wipe out a whole crop, but they are not in all areas, and you can take precuations to minimise your losses. Eg. plastic tubes around the stem, putting down rat baits.
Other areas have deer, and you will need a fence. Forget dog hair and scented soap, they are not guaranted remedies, you need a fence to guarantee they wont eat your plants.
You only get one opportunity for that year, so don't take chances on things that may not work all the time.

You usually only know what pests you are going to have to deal with by growing in that area and finding out what happens.
One patch might have heaps of caterpillars and another patch might have none.
One site might tend to mold and anothe patch might have no mold problems whatsoever.
So if you have a failure at one patch one year then stick with that patch and work out what you need to do next year to overcome that problem.

The percentage of grows that get ripped or wiped out by pests varies by the grower, and also the area they are growing, so everyones experiences will be different.

I have never had a grow ripped, well one actually, but that wasn't one of my regular sites, I just put that in after the others were planted out for shits and giggles.
I called it the "gamble patch" because it was close to civilisation and could easily have been found, and I didn't care if it was or not as I had my main spots which were further out and isolated, I just did it as a fun experiment to see if it made it throught.
And it got found because there was a bushfire and the fire dept. helicopter flew over it and saw it, and obviously reported it to leo.

Mold and caterpillars caused me my biggest losses.

But if you have a number of sites then you will always get something.

It's way safer than indoor, you sleep well knowing that if leo busts down your door they will find nothing, and if they find the plants outdoors they will just pull them up, they rarely stake them out.
Your biggest risks are transporting the seedlings to the site and bringing home the harvest.
Leo is unlikely to bust you at your grow, just take a few precautions, make sure you aren't followed in, and just spend the minumum time in your grow, just water them and then get the fuck out straight away, don't sit amongst the plants and smoke a joint while you admire them.
And one other thing, never think you are alone out there, you might think it's quiet and peaceful and no-one is around, but you just never know.
So don't have the transistor radio going while you sing along with it while you are pottering around your site. You might look up to find you have an unexpected visitior.
Maintain silence at all times. Your ears are your best warning system in the woods, you can hear someone from a distance, long before you can see them.
You want to hear them but you don't want them to be the ones hearing you.
Be silent and keep the advantage.
I have had a couple of guys walk past 10 metres away while I was in one of my grows, I could hear them talking as they walked along the stream. My grow was back a bit from the stream so they couldn't see it.
So that's another point, people follow streams and creeks along, so if growing near one set it back from the stream so it's out of site.
Another grow twice I had someone walk past about 15 metres away, I could hear them because there were flat rocks there and you could hear their footfalls on the rocks.
That spot never got found, that's the spot I metioned earlier which you couldn't see from more than 5 metres away.
Great tips man.Pests was a seriously problem in a area.We cant forget the snakes when we walk inside in forest to goes in path!
 

GonBush

Member
Can I ask you something though? Do you have any advice for carting in soil/amendments? I was thinking about a drop site with a camo tarp 100 feet from the road of my future spots but it really depends on the spot I suppose. My house is in a populated area so it takes an hour to get out to the secluded spots... what would you do if you were me? Make the drive? Or take your chances locally? I can't make up my mind...

I have done that. Drop your bags of soil amendments off early in the morning.
If you do it just before it gets light early in the mornig no-one is likely to be around, and it's still dark. Don't do it in the middle of the night because if leo comes along it will look suspicious, but early in the morning you can say you are going hiking and are getting an early start if they come along and ask questions.
A camo tarp or covering it with branches is a good idea.

My house is in a populated area so it takes an hour to get out to the secluded spots... what would you do if you were me? Make the drive? Or take your chances locally? I can't make up my mind...
__________________

I would do both, that's if after reconnissance and gathering intelligence you think no-one will go to the urban area.
Spots can be urban but no-one goes there, but you need to suss it out.
Spend time there and see what happens there, look for signs that people go there or not.
Do your preparation in winter, or spring if your winter is snowy. Get it set up early and then don't go near it till planting time, frequent trips can draw attention and arouse suspicion so setting it up early and then staying away will give any attention you may have attracted time to dissipate.
For urban a big backpack can be used to carry in soil amendments or whatever, takes more trips though but space them out, in case leo gets a tip off and decides to watch you.
Make sure you look like a genuine hiker though, a hiking pole is a good accessory, makes it look like you are just out for exercise.
 

GonBush

Member
Before you step off into the woods always have a look behind you in case you are being followed or someone is watching.
I was walking to one of my grows along a trail once and I saw two guys walking ahead of me.
Then they stepped off into the forest without looking behind them.
The next time I went to that area I walked in where they had stepped off the trail and in 5minutes I had found their grow.

Try not to look too much like a guerrilla grower, I have found that people don't go around searching for grows that much unless they know or suspect that you are growing.
Once they know you are growing in an area then some of them will spend a lot of time looking for your grow.
I even had one pest of a ripper that used to spend days sitting in the bushes beside a trail waiting for me to go past so he could follow me to my grow.
I caught him out by doing the same myself, when I got down the trail a bit I sat in the bushes out of sight watching the trail, and sure enough along comes ripper.

I also heard from someone that he used to sit up on a hill with binocolours trying to spot me going to my grows, so he had an idea where they were.
See the problem is that he found one of my grows by accident and then he knew I was growing out there, so then he started actively searching for them.
He didn't get the one he found though because I knew someone had been there, the old cotton around the grow, so I harvested early.

So it's a good idea to look like a regular hiker, not a guerrilla grower or stoner, so you don't tip people off you are growing there.
You have to decide if you wear camo or not, it will help hide you from helicopters or if you are crossing a hill or ridge it will make it harder for someone some distance away to see you. But if you do come across people on trails they might think you look suspicious or are up to something. To people in the know it does scream guerrilla grower.

For urban guerrilla growing camo is definately out, you will stand out too much.

Plain browns or greens are better, you don't stand out like if you were wearing white for example, but you will blend in quite well.

Personally I have abandoned the full camo, looks too suspicious after 9/11, people think you might be a terrorist and report you to leo.

Leave all your tools and grow supplies at the site, don't carry anything grow related on you. You wont usually run into leo out there but exiting the grow area you might.
I was exiting the forest once and when I got to the end of the trail I found 4 leo's waiting for me, someone had tipped them off, someone who lived close by.
They searched my backpack but found nothing.

When looking for grow sites get a good map of the area you are thinking of growing in, 1.250 000 scale is the best.
These will show you where the streams are, whether the terrain is flat or steep, and how thick the forest is.
These can save you a lot of legwork.
Pick the likely looking spots and then get boots on the ground and check them out.
A handheld GPS is good for saving the locations of any likely looking spots you come across.
I also carry a notebook and when I find a likely looking spot I save it in the gps and then make notes about the spot in the notebook.
I also give each potential grow site a rating out of 10.
Then I review the notebook and work out which will be the best spot.
Depends upon the area but it can be hard in some areas finding a good spot, especially if you need to grow near a watersource.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
I have done that. Drop your bags of soil amendments off early in the morning.
If you do it just before it gets light early in the mornig no-one is likely to be around, and it's still dark. Don't do it in the middle of the night because if leo comes along it will look suspicious, but early in the morning you can say you are going hiking and are getting an early start if they come along and ask questions.
A camo tarp or covering it with branches is a good idea.



I would do both, that's if after reconnissance and gathering intelligence you think no-one will go to the urban area.
Spots can be urban but no-one goes there, but you need to suss it out.
Spend time there and see what happens there, look for signs that people go there or not.
Do your preparation in winter, or spring if your winter is snowy. Get it set up early and then don't go near it till planting time, frequent trips can draw attention and arouse suspicion so setting it up early and then staying away will give any attention you may have attracted time to dissipate.
For urban a big backpack can be used to carry in soil amendments or whatever, takes more trips though but space them out, in case leo gets a tip off and decides to watch you.
Make sure you look like a genuine hiker though, a hiking pole is a good accessory, makes it look like you are just out for exercise.

Great points brother, greatly appreciate these! And so does everyone else...
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
That's really messed up that he used to stake out your grows though. What a lazy bastard!

That's a really good point of not having anything grow-related on your person. You were smart not to, and lucky you didn't when those leo's came by! Was that grow ever found? Crazy stuff.


I'm finding a lot of place right now that are farm fields/lands up for sale that are vacant. Plan on setting foot on the ground this month when the ground softens up so I can start digging, we still have some snow here and there where I live. Even though we get sufficient rain fall around here I'm planning on digging a 3x3x3 reservoir lined with pond liner for a back up supply in case the summer gets dry. I really wanna find a spot near a trout stream because every piece of land I see with trout nearby has AMAZING land from all of those nutrients in that water.

What's the best spot you've ever found? And how many years was it usable? I'm interested
 

GonBush

Member
What's the best spot you've ever found? And how many years was it usable? I'm interested

My best spot was a spot I called "Happy Valley".
Although I had another one I walled "Wombat" which was equally as good.
I used them for years, never got found.
At one time both of them had 50 plants going.
I have moved away for a few years so I'm not close enough at the moment to access them easily, so they haven't been used for a few years.
But I will be moving back to that area soon so I will go out and see what shape they are in, probably have to repair the fences a bit, and I will grow in them again.

You can use a spot for as long as it doesn't get found, and if it gets found then give it a years break and then go back to it if it seems ok.
Rippers might come back to it next year and see nothing is being grown there and think you aren't growing anymore, so they wont come back hopefully the year after.
Or maybe the rippers move house to a different town.
 

GonBush

Member
A road registered trail bike can be good for getting to your grows, when you get to the forest cover up the licence plate, in case someone spots you and reports you, or a satellite or helicopter picks up the licence plate.

Don't ride it all the way to the grow, as trail bikes leave tracks.
Ride it to some distance away and then stash it in the bushes, having a green tarp, or army surplus tent flies work better, to cover it keeps it hidden.

The only problem is some state parks don't allow trail bikes, and if that's the case it will attract a lot of attention, people will report you if they see you riding it in, or if the park is monitored by the rangers by satellite then they can pick you up and will send a helicopter to find you.
Happened to me many times.
I used to have to cover the bike with the tent fly and branches and then crawl under there and wait till the chopper had gone.
That area became very hot because of that, I think they must of been watching out for me on the satellite towards the end because it got so I would just get into the forest a distance and then thump thump in the distance and I would see a chopper heading towards me.

But it can make things a lot quicker, I came to the conclusion that most of my time was spent travelling to and from the grows so I decided to make it quicker and easier by getting a trail bike.
I could go to the forest and then go from one spot to the next watering in a fraction of the time, where it used to be an all day thing.
With a trail bike you can ride it cross country into the woods and stash it, where a car you have to leave it sitting at the side of the road arousing suspicions.

A mountain bike can also be a good way to get to your grows, much faster than walking.
Also good for carrying heavy soil amendments to your grow.
Get a sack, the ones from the 100 litre bags of perlite are good, and put a bag of amendments in each end, and then tie the end closed.
Then sling the sack over the crossbar of the bike so that a bag of soil amendments are hanging down each side of the bike.
Then push it to your grow site. It will also go cross country easily so you can push it all the way to your grow site, and doesn't leave much of a trail.
I have carried 6 25 litre bags of potting soil in one trip using this method.
The Viet Cong used this method to ferry stuff down the Ho Chi Minh trail to south Vietnam.
 

GonBush

Member
Pots or soil?

Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

You can grow bigger plants growing in the ground, and you don't have to water as often.

Pots are an advantage if you have a lot of termites in your area, as termites eat the plants roots and the plant ends up falling over.

If your grow has been discovered, or you think it has, then with pots you can relocate them. If they are big pots then you might need to make a trailer with bicycle wheels on it to cart them away.

Another tip, if your grow has been found and you think it will get ripped when the plants are ready to harvest, then about 2 weeks before harvest you can dig up the plants, leaving a rootball with roots and soil, wrap the rootball in something, plastic bag or whatever, to stop the soil falling away from the roots, and then carry them to a new location.
Sit the rootball in a plastic bowl or whaterver, a bucket will do, and put a bit of water in the bottom, and prop the plant up, tie it to a stake if needed, so it doesn't fall over.
They will finish like this.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
I'd like to touch on the key risk factors amongst going guerrilla... since these are the areas we should master and perfect FIRST. What good is growing the best sensi around if our security is breeched? So with that being said lets begin with:

Pre-season hauls -

If you're seen even once taking soil/supplies to your sites/drop-sites that location has been compromised. Don't go back and risk it, even if the spot is a 10/10. I've put weeks into a spot before to have a hiker spot me on my way out. He gave me that look like "hey I think I know what you were really doing back there" but played it off like he didn't know. He was a 20 yr old male who looked like he smoked so I left all my pots and shit there and never went back. I hope he got some use out of that spot at least!

Camo tarps for drop-sites (100-200 ft from the road) are a must. Having a trusted partner with a walkie giving you the go-ahead when the coast is clear is a wise decision. They don't even need to know where the site is located, you can tell them they get a certain % of the harvest if all goes well for doing you that favor a few times until supplies are dropped off. My buddy is a redneck atv guy so we make the perfect team. He has his advantages in the bush and with tools while I have plant knowledge and security tactics. :bandit:

Have an alibi like I've mentioned at the beginning of this thread at all times, so you can drop what you're doing if need-be and play your act out for any LEO's or hikers that happen to pass by (these fuckers wind up in the most remote of places sometimes I swear!). If you're always ready, then you'll never have to get ready... and under pressure and a pounding heart beat we all know thinking up an alibi off the top of our heads isn't going to fly half the time, let alone add up. Do the math before you walk into the bush folks!


Harvesting -

The big day means nerves and nerves mean mistakes if you can't keep them under control. Do whatever is necessary here without getting out of focus. That means if you tend to get paranoid after smoking then use it as a reward for when you get back instead of smoking beforehand. My remedy for nerves is a few shots of whiskey.. to grow my balls a bit bigger :headbange

Bring two pairs of gloves while harvesting. One pair to trim/chop plants, and one pair to touch the outer surface of your packaging material that you're transporting. The reason behind this is because canines won't be able to detect that you have a harvest in your trunk if it's properly packaged. Remember, canines can't smell through objects, they smell the odors that have permeated out through the pores of those objects. So if you package cannabis in a turkey bag you'll have at least 4 hours of odor-free transporting to work with. Never try masking plant odors with other odors either - this doesn't work and isn't how canines operate. You can mask an elbow with laundry sheets/peanut butter but that dog will pick up the sheets, peanut butter and cannabis all separately. Unless of course, it was packaged very recently and those odors haven't yet permeated out of the plastic turkey bag.

Have 2 trusted friends follow and trail you on your way to your drying location if you're not drying out in the bush (this plan is more for the northerners that run into rain late-season and don't really have that option of outdoor drying). Don't ride too close to raise suspicion here, just act normal and be normal. The point of this is to make it hard for LEO to pull you over. If a LEO does happen to start trailing your trail car, make sure he/she is instructed to make a violation in clear sight of the officer and sacrifice themselves to ensure you get the load home.

Make sure all inspections are up on vehicles and do a light check to make sure break lights are working. Basically give LEO no reason to pull you over whatsoever because we've worked far too hard to give up our season over sloppy driving.

Over-compensate on carbon filters at your drying location if you have more product than anticipated. Some strains alone require 2 filters so check perimeters for odor once everything is hung up and set to dry. :tiphat:
 

GonBush

Member
I've put weeks into a spot before to have a hiker spot me on my way out. He gave me that look like "hey I think I know what you were really doing back there" but played it off like he didn't know.

I think he might have been doing what you were doing!

I wouldn't have abandoned that spot, it's not like he found the actual grow site or anything. After all that work I would have kept on with it.
 

frankenstein2

Astronaut Status
Veteran
During harvest, bring a spray bottle of 91% iso alcohol , paper towels, and a couple turkey bags. This way you have a way to clean your hands and arms. The turkey bag is for dirty paper towels , to put them in to reduce smell. A change of clothes and clean hands can really help with the smell factor.
 
B

beakermuppet

Somebody mentioned drying yer bud out in the bush, curious as to how this would be done? Ive got some ideas, but would like to hear from a pro on how it's done successfully.

What do you guys think about soil from cornfields? Ive got alot of clay and gravel in my area, and in the past I would dig holes and fill it will store bought stuff.....but it's alot of work and gets expensive. I was thinking of growing in corn fields and maybe using some of the dirt to add to my holes in the bush, what do you guys think?

B
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
I think he might have been doing what you were doing!

I wouldn't have abandoned that spot, it's not like he found the actual grow site or anything. After all that work I would have kept on with it.

I would have if it were more of an isolated spot. This was literally 10 mins from my house and "under everyones noses" so I didn't wanna risk it. There was a trail system behind some apartments and the dude came from the thick woods... didn't make any sense! Then I asked him what he was doing back there and he said hiking... but he said he parked his car at a store that was wayyyyy far away so I knew something was fishy...

if he was some ignorant hiker and thought I was just smoking a jay or something I def would've kept that spot... I hauled in hundreds of pounds of chicken wire and soil over 3 miles to get it in there! Then hauled it back out :wallbash: LOL
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Somebody mentioned drying yer bud out in the bush, curious as to how this would be done? Ive got some ideas, but would like to hear from a pro on how it's done successfully.

What do you guys think about soil from cornfields? Ive got alot of clay and gravel in my area, and in the past I would dig holes and fill it will store bought stuff.....but it's alot of work and gets expensive. I was thinking of growing in corn fields and maybe using some of the dirt to add to my holes in the bush, what do you guys think?

B

Great question man - I'd like to 2nd that as well.

Does anyone have any good outdoor-drying methods they'd like to share?

I was actually daydreaming this week about the same thing... I worry about the moisture from the morning dew making my drying plants moldy over that week's time. I'm wondering if laying down a 20x20 camo tarp would cut down on any ground moisture from entering the buds...

I would def put up a tarp for the over-hang as well to stop any surprise rain fall from ruining my crop too.





Amending -

Every location is different though in guerilla growing - different places need different remedies. If you can cut down your clay soil with sand to even it out a bit that would allow you to plant 50/50 native soil:store bought.

If you wanna save your back even more (and your wallet) you could simply amend your native soil with additives like compost/perlite/manure/oyster shell or go the extra mile and amend a super soil out there with a few more ingredients.

For my spots I'm hauling in a bale of Pro-Mix BX for every 2 plants. These bales break out to 50 gallons when de-compressed. I'll be mixing this with my veganic (doesn't attract animals like poop does) super soil recipe at a 50:50 rate with my native soil. This will give me 50 gallons per plant to work with. I like to do less plants but bigger plants because it's less work with the same yields. If you're trying to keep shit on the DL and keep things small then that 100 gallons you just spent $50 on will give you way more than Foxfarm bags will @ $20 a bag. They come out to be 10 gallons per bag so that's looking at $50 compared to $200! Amend it yourself I'd say...

If you're interested in my recipe I'll dig it up, it's the same one DEM uses for their super soils. Hauling in a few bags of water polymers will help for droughts tremendously, but don't go more than double the recommended rates. I did a side by side one year and the plants without the polymers wilted and died while the ones with polymers were standing straight up! Insane what a little bit of salvaged water will do come mid-summer...




Site-Selection -

Let us know more about your soil situation and if there are any other spots possibly that is used for farm land (loam soil that is rich and brown). Using this type of soil can double if not triple the yields of a patch planted in a sandy or clay logged soil. These large fertile farm land properties are often up for sale and judging the condition of the "for sale" sign... you can find yourself stumbling upon a vacant guerrilla paradise in a short afternoon's hike. Keep this in mind whle site searching. Emailing the realtor about additional photos/information is wise as well, they're always up for giving away any info that will potentially land them a sale in the future.

I say my Dad is moving up from the south and is looking for vacant land to build on. Sound like you know what you're talking about to avoid suspicion. If you have the balls, you can schedule a showing of the property as well. You can't look like a pot head if you do this though, and you must bring notes with you and questions to ask to seem legit and interested. Few can pull this off but if you do it'll inform you of the entrance being used 90% of the time and any other possible entrances to the property. Plant in areas that the realtor didn't show you or couldn't access like swamps or wetlands, or on the borders of south-facing tree lines. Goodluck out there brother :tiphat:
 
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GonBush

Member
I hauled in hundreds of pounds of chicken wire and soil over 3 miles to get it in there! Then hauled it back out :wallbash: LOL

That's the problem with spending a lot of time and effort setting up your grow, if it gets found then all that work for nothing.

I think it's better to do it with minimal preparation, just the natural soil and use inorganic fertilizers.
I spent a lot of time and effort setting up a 30 plant grow, and it got found after two or three years.
Sure I got a reward out of it, some ok harvests, but then I had to abandon it.

Carting in a lot of amendments also means more exposure to being spotted.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
That's the problem with spending a lot of time and effort setting up your grow, if it gets found then all that work for nothing.

I think it's better to do it with minimal preparation, just the natural soil and use inorganic fertilizers.
I spent a lot of time and effort setting up a 30 plant grow, and it got found after two or three years.
Sure I got a reward out of it, some ok harvests, but then I had to abandon it.

Carting in a lot of amendments also means more exposure to being spotted.

Yeah, I've done osmocote grows in straight peat moss with some lime in the past and would get 3 zips per plant but that smoke wasn't good at all...at least after smoking good organic outdoors. I would much rather cart in organic amendments since most call for only a few cups each, bag em up in zip locks mixed together so you have 1 ziplock per plant. Pour soil in, your pre-measured bag of amendments, and mix. Plus if you mulch and keep that soil food web alive all season, it'll be your pest/mold prevention on it's own compared to chems. My osmocote plants were in the same area as some organic pots and only the osmocote had Fusarium.

There's a fine line between security risks and quality though, it all depends on your area pretty much and if you can afford to drive a car in a few times to unload big loads to drop sites. From there you're golden pretty much IMO if you can get to that drop site. I wanna start a thread solely on carting in amendments and tactics to it because it's such a high-risk point of time that can really make or break us...
 

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