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G
Guest
Unfortunately, electric here costs from 12 to 14 cents a kwh.
The small unit ranges from 39 to 90 watts of light depending on need. 30 days, 18 hours a day using 65 watts (average) is 8640 watts or 8.64 kwh
The large unit has 6 25 watt & 2 42 watt bulbs for a total of 234 watts. 30 days, 12 hours a day using 234 watts is 84,240 watts or 84.24 kwh.
92.88 kwh at an average of $0.13 per kwh is $9.29 a month.
Of course, in addition to the lights, there are fans and air pumps running. I would put the total electric cost for the two Rubbermaid units at about $11.00 a month.
The small unit ranges from 39 to 90 watts of light depending on need. 30 days, 18 hours a day using 65 watts (average) is 8640 watts or 8.64 kwh
The large unit has 6 25 watt & 2 42 watt bulbs for a total of 234 watts. 30 days, 12 hours a day using 234 watts is 84,240 watts or 84.24 kwh.
92.88 kwh at an average of $0.13 per kwh is $9.29 a month.
Of course, in addition to the lights, there are fans and air pumps running. I would put the total electric cost for the two Rubbermaid units at about $11.00 a month.
G
Guest
Hmm I beleive its a bit cheaper in my area. 5-10 bucks on the bill is nothin.
G
Guest
Nifty little set up my friend!!
I love DIY jobs!!
I love DIY jobs!!
G
Guest
What kind of lights do you use. I think i would use the swirrly bulbs warm and cool whites, depending on availability the 20-50 watt bulbs seem best for the little rubber maid setups.
Do the 100w warm whites (classic bulb shape) burn the plants, how bout the 60'watters?
Do the 100w warm whites (classic bulb shape) burn the plants, how bout the 60'watters?
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G
Guest
I use a mix of the twist and "u" shape CFL's. I have bulbs as low as 13 watts (used for seedlings & clones) up to 42 watts (for flowering). I have cool whites (6500K daylight) from 15w to 30w.POd said:
If you are talking about incandescent 100w warm whites, don't waste your time or electricity. They are very inefficient and waste a LOT of electricity as heat. These bulbs will not only burn the plants, they will melt right through the Rubbermaid tub!POd said:
Cool whites are best for vegging, warm whites for flowering. During the stretch period at the start of flowering, it's a good idea to keep some cool whites in the garden because they help reduce the stretch.
G
Guest
so basically buy a pack of the 20-45 watt warms for mid-late flower, and cools for veg. and mix em up during stretch. I think I would have 2 tubs each with 2 small flowering plants in square pots under a SCROG. I would most likely get nlxshiva and mabey some ak48? or does that kinda need a hps/mh.
If i got FS ww/bb & FS c99 and scroged the shit out of it would it do ok ina rubbermaid flouro grow? ( would start flowering a bit under the screen with a few tops and start really scroging during flowering.
What strains seem to yeild nicely, and have good developed buds under flouros, and what should i stay away from.
If i got FS ww/bb & FS c99 and scroged the shit out of it would it do ok ina rubbermaid flouro grow? ( would start flowering a bit under the screen with a few tops and start really scroging during flowering.
What strains seem to yeild nicely, and have good developed buds under flouros, and what should i stay away from.
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G
Guest
Mandala Seeds White Satin works well under fluoros. I just got very good yields of Lifesaver from my fluoro gardens. In the small containers, you want to stay away from sativas and grow indicas.
I have some C99xBlueberry in one of my containers right now and it's doing well.
I have some C99xBlueberry in one of my containers right now and it's doing well.
G
Guest
"Ya live and ya learn - or ya don't live long"dociron said:AWWWW GEEZE!!!! Now ya tell me!!!
C99 x Panama Red,, lol,,, "Budz in a box"
Hopefully the C99 will help reduce the stretch.
G
Guest
just top it twice and scrog the shit out of it man!
dociron
Active member
POd said:
I did top it awhile back, lol
and at this point I have about 12 inches of headroom for her.
If I need to, I can always take her out and put her in her own space,
and use the box for starting and readying for spring,,
I actually am an outdoorsman moved in.
I had "retired" from the grow for over 20 years.
What I have on my table now is my first grow since '83.
The world of pot has changed much in my absence.
Back then, "Ed & Mel" thought a 1000 watt light was good for a 10 x 10, lol
I just used what the goddess gave me,, good soil and my father Sol.
Always worked for me back then.
This "Buds in a box" thing I find highly enjoyable, lol.
Right now I'm using 43 and 45 watt cfl bulbs,
They're working fine in this box. I have, at present just under 300 watts for a little over 2 square feet, I felt any offspring of Cinderella from Panama deserved to enjoy her own space and plenty of sun on these cold winter days.....
I love this thread of Ambres'. This is a very enjoyable method to me.
Take Care and Stay Safe.............. D
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G
Guest
you got a lot of light with the proper training you should do ok. Invent some kind of rising invention( light proof spacer between the rubbermaids) if they get too tall.
G
Guest
this is really cool!! Here is an idea for a more STEALTH version of the same thing...
Ok so instead of inverting the top tub, you cut a hole in its bottom and in the LID of the bottom tub. that way, from the outside, they just look like a couple or few rubbermaids stacked in a corner the third box on top could house any lighting wiring, vent fans/scrubber, etc. ... i might just try this once i need to take down my grow ROOM and tightening overal security in the whole house.
Ok so instead of inverting the top tub, you cut a hole in its bottom and in the LID of the bottom tub. that way, from the outside, they just look like a couple or few rubbermaids stacked in a corner
the third box on top could house any lighting wiring, vent fans/scrubber, etc. ... i might just try this once i need to take down my grow ROOM and tightening overal security in the whole house.
G
Guest
Santa Pimp:
That would be a much better layout for security, you're right.
A few thoughts:
The lids on a lot of containers isn't very strong unless it is supported from inside. Cutting out the center section of the lid is going to weaken it more. You might need to reinforce the lid of the bottom section with an internal metal framework in order to support the weight above.
I assume you'd access the plants by lifting the top container off. It would be too awkward to reach down through to the top container, at least for me (I suppose Mrs. Incredible wouldn't have a problem since she can stretch her arms as needed).
You'll need some way of sealing the gap between the bins unless you want to use that as part of your passive air intake.
The box on top to hold everything is a pretty good idea, too. Obviously, I wasn't concerned with disguising my setup. There are a lot of good ideas this way in the "Micro & Fluoro" forum on Overslow.
That would be a much better layout for security, you're right.
A few thoughts:
The lids on a lot of containers isn't very strong unless it is supported from inside. Cutting out the center section of the lid is going to weaken it more. You might need to reinforce the lid of the bottom section with an internal metal framework in order to support the weight above.
I assume you'd access the plants by lifting the top container off. It would be too awkward to reach down through to the top container, at least for me (I suppose Mrs. Incredible wouldn't have a problem since she can stretch her arms as needed).
You'll need some way of sealing the gap between the bins unless you want to use that as part of your passive air intake.
The box on top to hold everything is a pretty good idea, too. Obviously, I wasn't concerned with disguising my setup. There are a lot of good ideas this way in the "Micro & Fluoro" forum on Overslow.
superjoint
Active member
nice grow box ,still using this setup?
G
Guest
very cool guys any one see this before it's a 150 watt HPS
it's a 150 watt HPS
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G
Guest
yep, he was the man. 
