DetroitFarmer
Member
P.S. I will put the stuff up about my system and data sheets ASAP too 
-
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Rookie Aero Flo Grow Together
- Thread starter aerokrafter
- Start date
-DF
Look closely at the wilted plant. Make sure you have no vermin biting it(fungus gnats can do this). Check the roots carefully. Make sure you have no brownish goo. If your aero roots are under water, they suffocate and can make the plant wilt - they will eventually adjust and the plant will recover if this is the case. Too high ppms can make a plant wilt. It is a different strain than the rest? These are all possibilities. Please put up some pix of it if possible.
As for nute adjustments:
To get the best possible results, we have to provide the best nutrient levels at all times. So we MUST be adjusting nutes between res changes. The reason we have daily data sheets is to allow us to make the best decisions about what the plants are eating and what they need.
The process is a kind of dance you do with the plants. They make a move and you respond. Here's a data sheet where you can see how I "danced" with the plants to keep them in optimum ranges.
If I waited for a res change to add nutes, these plants would be starving. Things happen very fast in aero - you have to learn to dance. A good exercise to do is to look through my grows and look at the data sheets. See if you can figure out why I made the moves I did. One of the main reasons I have posted them since I started doing grow shows, is that you can see exactly what I did. Almost no one else here posts that level of detail - I do it because if you really want to know whats going on in a grow - that data is essential.
Read the section on bloom nutes to see how I do this in more detail here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=232072&page=4
Remember the adjustment levels I use are callibrated to a 40 gallon res - you will need to convert them to your res size.
In addition you still have "mystery" levels of ionically active molecules from your tap water to take into account. Those ions make it difficult for you to get as close as possible to your burn levels. Our goal is to get and maintain nute levels right below the burn level. It will be much easier and you will get better results when you get RO going.
-----
Quick Tip for Aero Flo Users
The drain pipe on Aero Flos is made of plastic - including the threads you attach the drain hose to. It doesn't take long for the threads to get a little mangeled. A quick connect coupling is a very cheap solution that makes res changes a breeze AND keeps your drain pipe threads in good shape.
-AK
Look closely at the wilted plant. Make sure you have no vermin biting it(fungus gnats can do this). Check the roots carefully. Make sure you have no brownish goo. If your aero roots are under water, they suffocate and can make the plant wilt - they will eventually adjust and the plant will recover if this is the case. Too high ppms can make a plant wilt. It is a different strain than the rest? These are all possibilities. Please put up some pix of it if possible.
As for nute adjustments:
To get the best possible results, we have to provide the best nutrient levels at all times. So we MUST be adjusting nutes between res changes. The reason we have daily data sheets is to allow us to make the best decisions about what the plants are eating and what they need.
The process is a kind of dance you do with the plants. They make a move and you respond. Here's a data sheet where you can see how I "danced" with the plants to keep them in optimum ranges.
If I waited for a res change to add nutes, these plants would be starving. Things happen very fast in aero - you have to learn to dance. A good exercise to do is to look through my grows and look at the data sheets. See if you can figure out why I made the moves I did. One of the main reasons I have posted them since I started doing grow shows, is that you can see exactly what I did. Almost no one else here posts that level of detail - I do it because if you really want to know whats going on in a grow - that data is essential.
Read the section on bloom nutes to see how I do this in more detail here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=232072&page=4
Remember the adjustment levels I use are callibrated to a 40 gallon res - you will need to convert them to your res size.
In addition you still have "mystery" levels of ionically active molecules from your tap water to take into account. Those ions make it difficult for you to get as close as possible to your burn levels. Our goal is to get and maintain nute levels right below the burn level. It will be much easier and you will get better results when you get RO going.
-----
Quick Tip for Aero Flo Users
The drain pipe on Aero Flos is made of plastic - including the threads you attach the drain hose to. It doesn't take long for the threads to get a little mangeled. A quick connect coupling is a very cheap solution that makes res changes a breeze AND keeps your drain pipe threads in good shape.
-AK
SouthernHaze
Active member
So in the past two weeks there has been a change in the line up in the mother room. I have kushage growing strong, heavy duty fruity , darkstar failed to make it but I did start another one which got mixed in with a few seeds so I'm not to sure what it is. But I'll try and get some better pics up here soon. Everything looking good. Kushage got promoted to a bigger pot. Just waiting
-SH
Sounds good! We have several folks considering jumping into the fun and few just about ready to go. There's still plenty of time. Get those moms plump for high quality clones and use the time to research and figure out what questions you need to know.
Best of luck to all
-Ak
Sounds good! We have several folks considering jumping into the fun and few just about ready to go. There's still plenty of time. Get those moms plump for high quality clones and use the time to research and figure out what questions you need to know.
Best of luck to all
-Ak
oldergrower
Member
-OG
Your leaves look great! Bud button development looks nice and tight.
-DF
Hows that plant doing?
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Been getting more pm's about folks thinking about giving this a try. My best advise is to read this thread from the beginning again. You must consider the risks and costs. But Damn its fun!
Keep reading and researching. Do a realistic equipment list cost analysis. Depending on strain, use conservative production numbers (1.5 - 2.5 lbs per run) for your estimates. Those numbers are directly related to how much time and energy you commit to the grow.
You have to approach this with a pro's perspective if you want pro results.
Best of Luck to All!
-AK
Your leaves look great! Bud button development looks nice and tight.
-DF
Hows that plant doing?
-----
Been getting more pm's about folks thinking about giving this a try. My best advise is to read this thread from the beginning again. You must consider the risks and costs. But Damn its fun!
Keep reading and researching. Do a realistic equipment list cost analysis. Depending on strain, use conservative production numbers (1.5 - 2.5 lbs per run) for your estimates. Those numbers are directly related to how much time and energy you commit to the grow.
You have to approach this with a pro's perspective if you want pro results.
Best of Luck to All!
-AK
DetroitFarmer
Member
That plant is dead and removed... I didn't want to take any chances on getting my other babies effed up...
@AK:
What is the propose of letting the pH drift like that? Is it just to avoid having to adjust it everyday? Or does it have other benefits such as different nute uptake at different pH?
@AK:
What is the propose of letting the pH drift like that? Is it just to avoid having to adjust it everyday? Or does it have other benefits such as different nute uptake at different pH?
DetroitFarmer
Member
Also @AK
Do I just return to the same bloom nute recipe you advised on day 1? I am switching the water as I type this and I'm unclear as to which nute recode to use... Regular base bloom recipe??
I'm on day 9-10
Do I just return to the same bloom nute recipe you advised on day 1? I am switching the water as I type this and I'm unclear as to which nute recode to use... Regular base bloom recipe??
I'm on day 9-10
-DF
Prolly a good idea to get rid of the bad apple. I let the pH drift for nute uptake at different pH. I don't adujust until I hit 5.3 or 6.3.
Base Bloom Nutes is what you should start every res change with. For me its 110A,110B, 70 pH down, 50 Zone, and 50 Silica. We are looking for between 420 to 480 ppm, and pH between 5.3 and 6.3. We ratchet it up to just below burn. This is strain dependent. You will have to find your number as we go. That piece of data becomes very important for next run when this will all be easier for you.
If I need to clarify something here, don't hesitate to ask. Getting the recipe right for your situation will be one the most important things that you will get out of this experiment.
-AK
Prolly a good idea to get rid of the bad apple. I let the pH drift for nute uptake at different pH. I don't adujust until I hit 5.3 or 6.3.
Base Bloom Nutes is what you should start every res change with. For me its 110A,110B, 70 pH down, 50 Zone, and 50 Silica. We are looking for between 420 to 480 ppm, and pH between 5.3 and 6.3. We ratchet it up to just below burn. This is strain dependent. You will have to find your number as we go. That piece of data becomes very important for next run when this will all be easier for you.
If I need to clarify something here, don't hesitate to ask. Getting the recipe right for your situation will be one the most important things that you will get out of this experiment.
-AK
DetroitFarmer
Member
One more thing... I want to buy the RO and Co2... Do u object to Co2 in this run??
Go ahead and run CO2 - it will help. I plan to get mine back up and running when I get a few other things off my plate. I so glad you are getting RO - you will love the results. Makes life much easier.
-AK
-AK
oldergrower
Member
RO system
RO system
DF, my ro is a portable unit I used to use for drinking water because on well and have water softner. It is very convienent.
Here is a link to one I found like mine. I don't change the filters often and even though it says 2-4 years on the membrane mine has lasted over 10 yrs.
https://www.afwfilters.com/portable...table-ro-system-with-75-gpd-membrane-575.html
Good price. GL OG
RO system
DF, my ro is a portable unit I used to use for drinking water because on well and have water softner. It is very convienent.
Here is a link to one I found like mine. I don't change the filters often and even though it says 2-4 years on the membrane mine has lasted over 10 yrs.
https://www.afwfilters.com/portable...table-ro-system-with-75-gpd-membrane-575.html
Good price. GL OG
DetroitFarmer
Member
I must have missed a couple things and I plan on getting my Internet back ASAP so I can easily navigate this forum because its a pain in my ass!!!! Anywho, is there a post about how I know when to add more nutez and also when does koolbloom come into action? I know I read somewhere its week 2...
-DF
We add nutes when the ppm hits the bottom trigger - for me this is around 420. Look at those data sheets, and you can see what I did. This is the "dancing with the plants" that I was referring too earlier.
Kool Bloom begins to be used as a PK boost after or at peak stretch. This normally is around the end of the third week or into the fourth.
The Tips post on bloom nutes goes into detail about the effects of each additive on ppm and pH.
If you need more clarification, I'll work on a flow style explanation.
-AK
We add nutes when the ppm hits the bottom trigger - for me this is around 420. Look at those data sheets, and you can see what I did. This is the "dancing with the plants" that I was referring too earlier.
Kool Bloom begins to be used as a PK boost after or at peak stretch. This normally is around the end of the third week or into the fourth.
The Tips post on bloom nutes goes into detail about the effects of each additive on ppm and pH.
If you need more clarification, I'll work on a flow style explanation.
-AK
Day 28 Bloom Update
Unit:
Structure:
Bud:
Bud:
Data:
The frost is coming in hard. Stretch stopped right on schedule. The plants continue to eat well. I started Kool Bloom right after stretch stopped. It's time for the PK to jump a bit as we hit heavy flowering.
This data sheet is a good one to look at to see how I interact with the plants. I'm thinking of attempting to flow chart the decision tree for nute addbacks. If you're interested, lemme know.
As always, your comments and questions are welcome.
-AK
Unit:
Structure:
Bud:
Bud:
Data:
The frost is coming in hard. Stretch stopped right on schedule. The plants continue to eat well. I started Kool Bloom right after stretch stopped. It's time for the PK to jump a bit as we hit heavy flowering.
This data sheet is a good one to look at to see how I interact with the plants. I'm thinking of attempting to flow chart the decision tree for nute addbacks. If you're interested, lemme know.
As always, your comments and questions are welcome.
-AK
necronimus
Member
Hi! Great System aeroflo. I want to buy it soon too, but the aeroflo 10. I will follow your next posts.
1 question :
I want to buy the Darkstreet 2 120x120x200 cm, and put the aeroflo10 (110 x 46 x 55 cm) inside the Groow room. Do you think 600 Watt Hps it's enough? And it's also a good idea to put it inside a grow room?
1 question :
I want to buy the Darkstreet 2 120x120x200 cm, and put the aeroflo10 (110 x 46 x 55 cm) inside the Groow room. Do you think 600 Watt Hps it's enough? And it's also a good idea to put it inside a grow room?
-necronimus
My guess would be that 600 watts would cover the space fine. However I don't have experience with this type of setup in a tent. Perhaps some one who has more experience with this size footprint could chime in.
-AK
My guess would be that 600 watts would cover the space fine. However I don't have experience with this type of setup in a tent. Perhaps some one who has more experience with this size footprint could chime in.
-AK
-JohnG
Knowing when the plant stops concentrating on making stalk and moves on to full blast flowering gives us two important pieces of information. First we can determine the height - which lets us plan future runs and trellis needs. Second, the dietary needs of the plant shift at this point. This is when PK becomes more important than N.
For most strains this is day 21 - 26 bloom. The peak of the bell curve is around day 23 for the strains I have dealt with. I'm certain that for tropical sativas this number slides considerably - but my OHaze only room(120 days+) is years away.
I determine and note this event by observation. The plants will continue to elongate slowly, but mostly bud - not stalk.
Hope this helps.
-AK
Knowing when the plant stops concentrating on making stalk and moves on to full blast flowering gives us two important pieces of information. First we can determine the height - which lets us plan future runs and trellis needs. Second, the dietary needs of the plant shift at this point. This is when PK becomes more important than N.
For most strains this is day 21 - 26 bloom. The peak of the bell curve is around day 23 for the strains I have dealt with. I'm certain that for tropical sativas this number slides considerably - but my OHaze only room(120 days+) is years away.
I determine and note this event by observation. The plants will continue to elongate slowly, but mostly bud - not stalk.
Hope this helps.
-AK
