luvdemshrooms
Member
That's what they look like when you overheat them.
I have a couple here exactly like it.
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REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL
- Thread starter REALSTYLES
- Start date
That's what they look like when you overheat them.
I have a couple here exactly like it.
REALSTYLES
Member
Well guys it's been a minute. I've been busy making lights and growing
Great to see ya back posting RS, got anything new up your sleeves???
REALSTYLES
Member
Yeah gonna be making Aero cloners.
Cool, post em up!
C
CannaBuilding
All 90 degree Lenses on 3000k 3500k 4000k 5000k, 8 in total, Lights are about 15 - 20 inches above canopy.
Peace.
Darkfurion
New member
I have one question for you sirs.
Would I be able to run 2x cxb3590 (36Veach) on this driver ELG-150-C2100?
Wattage: 150watts
Rated current: 2100mA
Voltage: 72V
Would I be able to run 2x cxb3590 (36Veach) on this driver ELG-150-C2100?
Wattage: 150watts
Rated current: 2100mA
Voltage: 72V
Dion
Active member
actually its a perfect combo
Darkfurion
New member
I was more concerned about the 2100mA since when connected in series both COBs work on 2100mA they do not share the current.
Thank you for the feedback guys I will probably use this driver.
Thank you for the feedback guys I will probably use this driver.
C
CannaBuilding
Should be fine, make sure not to use a thick layer of thermal paste when mounting the COB to the heatsink.
Running LEDS in series is not a problems, but in a parallel (even if they are the same type LEDS) is not recommended (as each individual COB might have a different internal resistance, even if they are the same model).
Peace and happy growing.
REALSTYLES
Member
I use thermal pads lol. I've been super busy and testing some new lights. I'll post some pics soon.
Hey I've been reading massive amounts about cobs over the last 2 weeks and I've decided I'm going to upgrade and build my own panels. It will be a massive setup 72 cobs for flowering tent one cxb3590 3500k for every sqft and in my veg area 1 cxb3590 5000k every square foot. I plan on wiring some seperate 3w leds in between my cobs for UV and broader spectrum on a 700a driver.
The issue I'm sat with, which I can't resolve on my own other than wasting money on testing several drivers before I by is that I run with a low height. I keep my plants under 2ft tall so every cm counts.
Ideally I want 2ft of penetration whilst also being able to keep the lights up to 6 inch from the canopy.
I am thinking about using lenses but if I do 120 degree lenses would be best as 1sqft wouldn't be covered at 6 inch with a 90 degree lens.
I'm undecided as to wether running 1050a 36v at 37w or 1400a at 50w per cob.
I run with critical mass and I could use your advise on wether bleaching would occur at 6 inch for 1400a and what would be best to use.
Cheers
The issue I'm sat with, which I can't resolve on my own other than wasting money on testing several drivers before I by is that I run with a low height. I keep my plants under 2ft tall so every cm counts.
Ideally I want 2ft of penetration whilst also being able to keep the lights up to 6 inch from the canopy.
I am thinking about using lenses but if I do 120 degree lenses would be best as 1sqft wouldn't be covered at 6 inch with a 90 degree lens.
I'm undecided as to wether running 1050a 36v at 37w or 1400a at 50w per cob.
I run with critical mass and I could use your advise on wether bleaching would occur at 6 inch for 1400a and what would be best to use.
Cheers
I could possibly do 12 inch from canopy in flower But my veg room would definitely need 6 inch from canopy.
My other question is I would be building fixtures 47 inch long 6.5 inches wider
Each fixture will contain 3 of these heat sinks using iron or steel angles to keep them in one piece.
I'll have a total of 6 of these fixtures in the flower room. With 12 -18 drivers. Is there anyway I can solder extra wire to each of the drivers potentiometer cable and wire them all to the same potentiometer so I don't have to dim every single one?
C
My other question is I would be building fixtures 47 inch long 6.5 inches wider
Each fixture will contain 3 of these heat sinks using iron or steel angles to keep them in one piece.
I'll have a total of 6 of these fixtures in the flower room. With 12 -18 drivers. Is there anyway I can solder extra wire to each of the drivers potentiometer cable and wire them all to the same potentiometer so I don't have to dim every single one?
C
C
CannaBuilding
Going of memory, But bins are different graded COBS (might have better colour output) as opposed to other binned COBS (CXA would be better than a CXB COB)
http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/cri_explained.htm
Give the above a read about CRI (something to do with color).
Steve,
in simple terms.
Cri is "color rendering index", higher values mean more "white" light but less total output*.
RA is same value but for some reason they lable it as Ra instead of cri.
Don't go for CXA but take some CXB3070 instead. Or even better get a Vero29 version 7.
Cri(Ra) 80 is good for growing and is a great compromise of "white resemblance" and total photon output. I wouldn't go with Ra90 for plants except if I were a pure white light freak. Which I'm not
Another suggestion: Google is a great tool to get the infos you need without waiting for people's replies.
Cheers
in simple terms.
Cri is "color rendering index", higher values mean more "white" light but less total output*.
RA is same value but for some reason they lable it as Ra instead of cri.
Don't go for CXA but take some CXB3070 instead. Or even better get a Vero29 version 7.
Cri(Ra) 80 is good for growing and is a great compromise of "white resemblance" and total photon output. I wouldn't go with Ra90 for plants except if I were a pure white light freak. Which I'm not
Another suggestion: Google is a great tool to get the infos you need without waiting for people's replies.
Cheers
