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REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL

A

Arf

Member
Zarbu said:
REALSTYLES you my friend are so awesome, if your are ever in my neck of the woods Ive got you covered.

now a question I want anyone and everyone with knowledge to answer.

2 x Meanwell HLG-185-C700B

With 6 x CREE CXB3590 3500K, CD 72V

How many Lumens will this setup produce un dimmed with the 6 crees

and please answer the exact question instead of telling me about PAR and how Lumens don't matter. (im a horticulture consultant with 20 years in the industry)

Thank you
Click to expand...

The Cree data sheet for the CXB3590 will tell you that, there are efficiency curves on it. It all depends on what temperature you let them run at. Personally I like the heatsinks to feel cold to the touch.

If you measure the voltage on the COBs after they have warmed up, and know the driver current, the curves on the data sheet will give you an idea what temperature you are running at, and what the lumen output is.
 
Z

Zarbu

New member
Arf said:
The Cree data sheet for the CXB3590 will tell you that, there are efficiency curves on it. It all depends on what temperature you let them run at. Personally I like the heatsinks to feel cold to the touch.

If you measure the voltage on the COBs after they have warmed up, and know the driver current, the curves on the data sheet will give you an idea what temperature you are running at, and what the lumen output is.
Click to expand...
great info ty
 
Roasty McToasty

Roasty McToasty

Member
pct.cree.com

Input your chips and bin and select multiple of 6. Find your current on the chart. Only works on desktop unless you use chrome or safari browser.
 
Dawn Patrol

Dawn Patrol

Well this is some bullshit right here.....
Veteran
Please post here and let us know where it is! You've done so much amazing work for the LED community, don't want to miss a post of your next thread.
 
C

cultivatorkid

Member
what am i looking at with 4 vero 29 36.8V (BXRC-35E10K0-L-23)
can someone explain the difference if i use driver HLG-185H-C1400A vs LPC-150-2100
im trying to get 400 watts
 
woolybear

woolybear

Well-known member
Veteran
go my leds growing, i need taller tents they light strength is stressing them out!

they can take a day or so under the leds, then they get a bit droopy. giving them t5 light between. they should get used to it in a bit hopefully
 
L

Lilbrowndude

New member
Realstyles i live in SD and i have become infatuated with your lights, please let me know if you are willing to build me a setup for a price, im willing to pay for your hard work excellent craftsmanship.
 
C

CannaBuilding

growmau5 said:
@JinkyOars So what's the take away? and why is this the 3rd post to answer a simple question: How far should my DIY3590 COB light be from my plants?

I wanted to explain why before recommending what to do.
If I had your setup (400w 3590) in your space (3x3). I would do the following:

-aggressive veg 500-800 PPF which would be either:
-light maxed @ 400w 24" from the canopy <or>
-light dimmed to 66% 16" from the canopy
-flip 12/12 I find it imperative to deliver the maximum PPF possible at this stage to reduce stretch as much as possible.
-16" from canopy (since you have LEDIL refl) light bumped up to 80-90%
-continue to raise the light as the plants grow rather than setting the light very high and allowing the plants to grow closer to it.

Take all of this advice with a grain of salt because different strains can tolerate drastically different light levels. e.g.
- an alien blues may only be able to tolerate 1100 PPF max before it bleaches
- a given Tangie may be able to tolerate 2000 PPF without slowing down or burning.

you almost have to bleach your strains, or almost bleach them one time, to see what they will handle.

cheers
ps: here is a tangie one inch from the lens, zero bleaching or burning.
Click to expand...


Dam dude, thanks for taking the time to eleborate on this, Its answered a couple of question i had with bleaching and yeild etc.

I wondered why the same plant/clone would slow down when it started to bleach (10 inches from the lights) but the same batch of clones which was in the corner of the tent would do much better, i had the dam lights to close.

I can confirm that adding 90 degree lenses makes a huge difference in stretching and light penetration, its been mentioned in previous post before by others members, it was also noted that less wattage would be needed at the same height.

heres a mini tree that i turned hermi to produce seeds, its at 6 weeks with 3 weeks to go

5th element by elemental seeds (sativa pheno)

3weeks before harvest
picture.php

Buds harvested at day 70 cured for a 1 week
picture.php

picture.php

Close up of buds
picture.php

picture.php


All grown under 6xvero 29's running at 75watts each, i remember when LEDS first came out, forum members would post, "you cant grow dank sticky bud under LED" Well this bud is the dankest stickiest bud I've grown, In the close ups you cant even make out the trichs cause there are so many bundled together.

Happy growing.
 
C

CannaBuilding

neverforget4/20 said:
CB, did you run tests checking temps?

A while back supra ran tests on lensed v29 @2.1 mA and detected very little temp change. Ive got those same magnetic lenses on my vero29. They dont seem to be any warmer than non lensed emitters.

Which lenses did you test?
Click to expand...

Sup Icmagers,

Have some results in regards to temps with 90 lenses and with out.

Temp gun reads less with lenses as i cannot get the infra red beam to penetrate to silicone area of the COB, temps are 40c and 50c depending on ambient temp, compared to 150c+ at silicone area without lenses. Figured we cant use the above as a comparison, logical thing to do would be to measure the back of the heat sink and around the same LED area on both the lenses and no lenses cobs.

Results are for 2x vero29's running at 0.7a each 3000k color, Both are the same temps around 25c 77f around the front of the heat sink and about 30 - 35c at the back of the Heat sink right in the center where the back of the cob chip sits on thermal compound, no differences before and after. To conclude, its worth installing lenses, its been a week now and i can already notice a difference in lower bud formation, and not to mention tent temps have decreased 2f due to the lights being raised 5 - 10 inches to decrease bleaching (still get bleaching at the top colas on 2 of the strains running in the tent). Benefits are worth the costs which aint much for lenses anyway from kingbrite.

here are some pics of a frosty 39days in flowering 5th element from elemental seeds (finishes at 50 - 55 days), amazing strain, thanks to COB LEDS and lenses, could never get bud this frosty when i used HPS or cheap Red/blue panels.

top cola 7day clone at 39 days flowering (severely under fed) Notice teh stupid fungas gnat circled, couldnt get away from the dankness, probably overdosed on THC hehe.

middle cola same clone as above

30 days flowering afghani99 Trichome Jungle Seeds top cola


2x vero29's 3000ks running at 100watts each
2x vero29's 3500ks running at 60watts each
2x vero29's 5000ks running at 75watts each (will be increasing to 100 watts each soon)
All running 90 degree lenses
total of 370watts in a 1x1m Length/width, 1.8m high, Canopy temps stay around 75 - 77f, Lights vary in height from 17-25inches.

Also if you would like to stay up late, just stick your head into your tent (you will be squinting from the brightness) take a deep breathe and fight through it, once your eyes can focus and bare the light, your garunteed to stay awake for another 3 - 6 hours (depending on how much cannabis you smoke/vaporize/strain etc) even if you feel like your going to nod off, try this and see how fast you'd wake up, ROFL.

peace, happy growing :)
 
Last edited:
V

vixwol

New member
hey guys,

i did the same setup as Realstyles with 4 cxb3590 and 700ma meanwell, two cobs on one aluminium with fan on top and other two cobs as well. it lasted only 36 hours, three of them giving barely light that i can see diodes with bare eyes and the other one just not giving any light. and yes all the connections are made right, i have degree in engineering. am i the only lucky one here or they fail occasionally?

thanks in advance.
 
Koondense

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
Check the temperatures, if your heatsinks are cold might be bad heat transfer from cobs to heatsinks, or maybe your driver is kaput.
If you have a ee degree, you probably have a multimeter, so check all possibilities and hope there's a small resolvable issue.
Hope you figure it out soon.
 
Koondense

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
Hmm, maybe you screwed it too tightly..
I imagine that would happen if the paste is not spread properly(mostly in center) and too tight screws of the holders. But who knows.
 
chomsky

chomsky

Member
CannaBuilding said:
Dam dude, thanks for taking the time to eleborate on this, Its answered a couple of question i had with bleaching and yeild etc.

I wondered why the same plant/clone would slow down when it started to bleach (10 inches from the lights) but the same batch of clones which was in the corner of the tent would do much better, i had the dam lights to close.

I can confirm that adding 90 degree lenses makes a huge difference in stretching and light penetration, its been mentioned in previous post before by others members, it was also noted that less wattage would be needed at the same height.

heres a mini tree that i turned hermi to produce seeds, its at 6 weeks with 3 weeks to go

5th element by elemental seeds (sativa pheno)

3weeks before harvest
View Image
Buds harvested at day 70 cured for a 1 week
View Image
View Image
Close up of buds
View Image
View Image

All grown under 6xvero 29's running at 75watts each, i remember when LEDS first came out, forum members would post, "you cant grow dank sticky bud under LED" Well this bud is the dankest stickiest bud I've grown, In the close ups you cant even make out the trichs cause there are so many bundled together.

Happy growing.
Click to expand...

What lens are you taking that photo with?
 
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