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Promix-Your Opinion as a Medium

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
How much limestone are you adding to your promix?

GH says 1 cup dolomite lime per cubic foot, with their Maxi series - what I was using when I switched to promix - so I went with that. Pelletized lime from MK Minerals, and 10% perlite if I can find any.
 

jav2043

Member
GH says 1 cup dolomite lime per cubic foot, with their Maxi series - what I was using when I switched to promix - so I went with that. Pelletized lime from MK Minerals, and 10% perlite if I can find any.

Great thanks for quick response. I added 20% perlite to promix BX last run but went for watering every 4-5 days down to every 2-3. Would be happy with every 3-4 so gonna try 15% since I will be adding EWC as well.
 

GenuineBuddy

New member
Not to hijack the thread here, but since there is a ton of attention in this thread from Pro Mix users, would you mind please sharing your water PH for your Pro Mix medium?

According to Premier Tech (the makers of ProMix), the pH of the water doesn't matter when you are using a soilless medium like ProMix. The important factor is carbonate hardness:

"Unlike true hydroponics, water pH is not important when using a soilless medium. In this case, the pH of the growing medium is the primary concern and is greatly influenced by the alkalinity (bicarbonates and carbonates) of the water, not the water pH. The only way to accurately determine the alkalinity (calcium carbonate levels) is to have the water analyzed by a reputable lab. The ideal alkalinity for most plant productions in soilless media is 80-150 ppm of calcium carbonate. If the alkalinity levels are above 250 ppm of calcium carbonate in the water, it may become necessary to inject acid to neutralize some of the calcium carbonate and to lower the water alkalinity to optimum levels."

I use the kH test kit from API that I use for my aquariums to test the carbonate hardness of my water.
 

Hold Your Fire

Finding my way back home
Veteran
According to Premier Tech (the makers of ProMix), the pH of the water doesn't matter when you are using a soilless medium like ProMix. The important factor is carbonate hardness:

"Unlike true hydroponics, water pH is not important when using a soilless medium. In this case, the pH of the growing medium is the primary concern and is greatly influenced by the alkalinity (bicarbonates and carbonates) of the water, not the water pH. The only way to accurately determine the alkalinity (calcium carbonate levels) is to have the water analyzed by a reputable lab. The ideal alkalinity for most plant productions in soilless media is 80-150 ppm of calcium carbonate. If the alkalinity levels are above 250 ppm of calcium carbonate in the water, it may become necessary to inject acid to neutralize some of the calcium carbonate and to lower the water alkalinity to optimum levels."

I use the kH test kit from API that I use for my aquariums to test the carbonate hardness of my water.

Interesting.

Thanks for the post.:tiphat:
 
I run Promix BX with added Perlite and EWC.
I have a well that spits out 7.0 water.. no chlorine in a well..
But I do PH all my water before I use it to water or foliar spray.
I PH my water to 6.0 or below.
My girls love my water.
 
A

acridlab

RO water to start and after adding nutes PH of 5.8-6.2 seems to work best for my set up. On the higher end during veg and lower end for flower. Just my 2 cents.

I was always taught to keep it lower in veg and higher in flower,, and even a lil higher in flush mode..
In veg u want lower like 5.9/6.1cuz the nitrogen up takes at lower right? Then in flower, your p and k uptake at a lil high era round 6.1/6.3.then flush mode u can raise it more so it's starting to slow down nitrogen upatake and keep the plant eating up all those p and k's etc... Could b wrong, works great for me,,peace
 
According to Premier Tech (the makers of ProMix), the pH of the water doesn't matter when you are using a soilless medium like ProMix. The important factor is carbonate hardness:

"Unlike true hydroponics, water pH is not important when using a soilless medium. In this case, the pH of the growing medium is the primary concern and is greatly influenced by the alkalinity (bicarbonates and carbonates) of the water, not the water pH. The only way to accurately determine the alkalinity (calcium carbonate levels) is to have the water analyzed by a reputable lab. The ideal alkalinity for most plant productions in soilless media is 80-150 ppm of calcium carbonate. If the alkalinity levels are above 250 ppm of calcium carbonate in the water, it may become necessary to inject acid to neutralize some of the calcium carbonate and to lower the water alkalinity to optimum levels."

I use the kH test kit from API that I use for my aquariums to test the carbonate hardness of my water.


Well then, using this test kit.. are you saying you have to test your medium..Promix? Or test your water going into the medium!?
 
Well then, using this test kit.. are you saying you have to test your medium..Promix? Or test your water going into the medium!?
what hes saying doesnt make sense at all.

hes saying to not ph your water but let the medium do the work but that isnt a great idea, as it will vary depending on what your water quality is going in. it also is saying that you should add an acid if your kh is higher than normal, which is true but by doing so counteracts the first part of what was said above.

your kh directly influences your ph as its telling you the buffering capability of it. the lower your kh the easier it is for your ph to swing and high the harder it is, its best to know all areas of what your feeding from water and your medium.

its imho its always best to know the quality of water going in before hand which is why ro is needed in some applications. an easy example of this is it was stated to use calcium carbonate to raise the kh which is good in some applications but if your gh is already high its possible it might raise ur gh above where you want it as it raises both gh an kh so an alternative might be a better choice.

but again it will depend on how your water is from the start so test it or start with ro an re mineralize it to where you need it. :)
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
feed every time? or plain water in between ? 1 outta 3?

Both work but people overfeed and most infirmary cases are overfeeding. I most often give tap water, but water often just a little bit every 3 days like you're not supposed to do. If you add a compost - you might as well - and repot a few times, you don't have to add salt nitrogen. The Ultimate Organic promix is foolproof in veg if kept on the dry side at all times and not fertilized except for a little micro formula a couple times.
 
@G.O. Joe..
Good advice... loving this promix...will look into what you said.
Thanks.. yeah, I think I over watered a couple of my girls.. will not do that again.
 

GenuineBuddy

New member
Well then, using this test kit.. are you saying you have to test your medium..Promix? Or test your water going into the medium!?

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you on this. I didn't receive an email letting me know you had posted.

Anywho, I test the carbonate hardness of the water, as recommended by Premier Tech. I also use well water and my carbonate hardness falls within the range they recommend.

Due to the amount of carbon dioxide in my well water, my pH out of the tap is about 6.4; I use it straight out of the tap for my aquariums because they are planted aquariums which love CO2.

I always bubble for my cannabis plants because they love oxygen and after bubbling the pH is 7.0. I don't adjust the pH before watering and substrate pH is always 5.8 when tested using a probe. Runoff water is also between 5.8 and 6.0.
 

GenuineBuddy

New member
what hes saying doesnt make sense at all.

hes saying to not ph your water but let the medium do the work but that isnt a great idea, as it will vary depending on what your water quality is going in. it also is saying that you should add an acid if your kh is higher than normal, which is true but by doing so counteracts the first part of what was said above.

your kh directly influences your ph as its telling you the buffering capability of it. the lower your kh the easier it is for your ph to swing and high the harder it is, its best to know all areas of what your feeding from water and your medium.

its imho its always best to know the quality of water going in before hand which is why ro is needed in some applications. an easy example of this is it was stated to use calcium carbonate to raise the kh which is good in some applications but if your gh is already high its possible it might raise ur gh above where you want it as it raises both gh an kh so an alternative might be a better choice.

but again it will depend on how your water is from the start so test it or start with ro an re mineralize it to where you need it. :)

I'm not the one saying it. Premier Tech is and I'm simply quoting them. I'm also lucky enough to live near one of the premier greenhouses in the country and their horticulturists, who all use Promix, agree that it's the carbonate hardness, not the pH, that matters. Of course, I phrased my question in regard to growing tomatoes but that shouldn't matter too much :)

I never adjust the pH of my water, which is 7.0 after bubbling, and the pH of my runoff always falls between 5.8 and 6.0 and the pH of the substrate using a probe is always 5.8.
 
Does anyone have any secrets they would like to share for Bulking Up the existing buds.. Love to know some secrets..advice.. direction...
I am using
Promix bx
AN A+B Bloom
PK 13-14
Orca
B Vitamin Mixture

Thanks
 

Bozo3

New member
^^ I've used Molasses during weeks 3-6 during flowering for a longtime and get great results - I have never used it as a foliar spray, always just mix it into my regular feeding solution.

would love to know how the foliar works - I stuff my tent so I don't want to put molasses on the leaf surface because I just assume it will attract insects that like the sweetness of it. Would really like to hear if anyone uses it as a foliar. I guess during weeks 3-6 of flowering you wouldn't want to foliar with anything anyways, hmm.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
I've been a big fan of PM BX for a while now.
great for seedlings
In veg started with trying it out with FFOF with 30% promix,
the plants loved it
then I tried 50-50 blend on the last/final pot up then into bloom,
so by the time I was ready for flushing the FFOF was spent
plus as a side benefit it saved on the amt. of FFOF usage :smoke:

bottom line no matter what the ratio was it made the soil light-n-spongy
 

Rainmaker

Member
Strait pro-mix HP for all stages...you'll never go back. I've done comparison side by sides with other formulations and blends. Best preformance with greatest ease of use.
 

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