Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?

[puff adder]

I have been having good luck using SM-90. I sprayed half my plants with Zone/Penetrator, and the other half with SM-90. After a week, the Z/P plants still had some tiny spots of PM, but the plants sprayed with SM-90 are clean.

I'm not sure how close to harvest you can use SM-90, but it seems to be very effective against PM.

This is my first time dealing with PM indoors. Now, just like with bugs, I am going to spray preventatively Before I see signs of any PM.

Exel LG is a systemic mildew/fungicide that I am going to use early in veg to hopefully curb any PM in the future before it starts.

 

[HymroD]

get your ventilation right and have oscillating fans blowing across your plants day and night and you wont get mold of any kind .
in 25 yrs of growing ive never had any boytritis or any other molds.
Outside yes we all get some unless you use a resistant strain .

Sorry Andy but that is not true...I had ideal conditions like you state and got it due to a stupid early evening mist and put-to-bed without proper dry. PM can get anywhere despite your ventilation etc in my research.

Pe@ce,

HymroD

 

[Gold123]

Oh and good luck sparky6- try the 3 to 10ml zone and full stength penetrater. Dip the entire plant into like a small trash can. Whatever size needed for the size of the plant. Dip three times lets shake. Make sure all stems leaves etc are covered with the solution real good. I use my hands and lightly grasp the leaves and the whole plant and stroke it gently while its inside the buket to make sure it's completely soaked. Do this three times. Let dry not under a light. Wait three days-reapeat. Do this process three times to all plants even the non-looking infected ones. You'll never have pm again. It's instantaneous. It kills it immediately. The 2nd and 3rd dippings are for spores in the environment that might hatch. THose dippings kill the hyphae as they are trying to invade the cell membrane and establish themselves. Best time to kill them, before they "root" themselves in the cell walls and suck the plant of energy. I read somewhere that for every square inch of infected leaf material (keep in mind that doesn't mean white leaf, but infected, the white is the babies not the mold) you lose a directly proportional amount of energy the cells can produce through cell division and reproduction (overall growth). So it's a bigger deal than most people think. It WILL increase harvest, as well as, the vigor of the plant by eradicating the infection. The plants love the dip. It's like taking the chains off thier mitochondria. LOL. It's slightly harsh on them, but the benefits so outweight the negatives, you can see the plants respond in vigor and energy in the leaf growth and overall health look of the plant. Drop the 25 bucks for the penetrater. The zone takes so little a bottle will last you a lifetime basically. The penetrater now called saturater is a miracle surfactent, imho. Never seen anything like it. Worth every penny. Wish i had invented it. Good luck all.

Please answer this, the penetrator label says use at a rate of 60ml/liter,quart. That's 240ml/gal or 2400ml/10 gal. Do you use that much? One bottle is only 1000ml. I don't mind spending that much if that is what it takes to make 10 gallons to dunk in. Do you save and reuse the dunk solution?

I had that s*@t in my buds, cut it all down. I don't want it this time. Cleaning everything with bleach solution.

 

[ILIKETOLEARN]

Is it a problem if sulphur vapor gets into my rez?

 

[Gold123]

Is it a problem if sulphur vapor gets into my rez?

Don't take this as fact but I believe that sulfur in the water will lower the pH do to the formation of sulfuric acid.

 

[Yesca73]

just harvested casey jones and chemdog sis. didnt get zone/saturator until day of harvest. when i cut my babies down i still noticed some PM . in the past i had sprayed peroxide a few days before harvest and it fried my hairs. bag appeal was deffinatly deminished. So i decided to make a batch 10ml/gallon zone&60ml/gal saturator and gave each limb the submarine treatment. dunk 2 or 3 times then shake off excess then placed in drying racks. had fan close up on high for few 2 days then backed up alittle and turned on low. cmpletly dry 5 days. didnt fry hairs, buds look great . no PM, no bud mold. sweet sticky icky smoke. thnx for all da post and info. deff gonna use this on babies and hopefully wont have issiues in flower. also had some burn marks or something on leaves after using sulpher. yellow spots

 

[Gold123]

just harvested casey jones and chemdog sis. didnt get zone/saturator until day of harvest. when i cut my babies down i still noticed some PM . in the past i had sprayed peroxide a few days before harvest and it fried my hairs. bag appeal was deffinatly deminished. So i decided to make a batch 10ml/gallon zone&60ml/gal saturator and gave each limb the submarine treatment. dunk 2 or 3 times then shake off excess then placed in drying racks. had fan close up on high for few 2 days then backed up alittle and turned on low. cmpletly dry 5 days. didnt fry hairs, buds look great . no PM, no bud mold. sweet sticky icky smoke. thnx for all da post and info. deff gonna use this on babies and hopefully wont have issiues in flower. also had some burn marks or something on leaves after using sulpher. yellow spots

My bottle of Dutch Master Penetrator says to use it at a rate of 60 ml/quart not per gallon. Am I missing something. Did you rinse in fresh water after dunking or dunk and let it drip dry.
Thx

 

[Sparky 6]

just harvested casey jones and chemdog sis. didnt get zone/saturator until day of harvest. when i cut my babies down i still noticed some PM . in the past i had sprayed peroxide a few days before harvest and it fried my hairs. bag appeal was deffinatly deminished. So i decided to make a batch 10ml/gallon zone&60ml/gal saturator and gave each limb the submarine treatment. dunk 2 or 3 times then shake off excess then placed in drying racks. had fan close up on high for few 2 days then backed up alittle and turned on low. cmpletly dry 5 days. didnt fry hairs, buds look great . no PM, no bud mold. sweet sticky icky smoke. thnx for all da post and info. deff gonna use this on babies and hopefully wont have issiues in flower. also had some burn marks or something on leaves after using sulpher. yellow spots

Wow so all the way up to harvest this can be used. Thanks for sharing!

I just had to use it again on a couple plants of mine that were developing it and the Zone/Penetrator wiped it right out in two treatments again. Very glad I invested in this stuff.

 

[puff adder]

I sprayed with 10ml Zone and 60ml Penetrator at about 30 days flowering. The combo really does work well, but it (as with anything) takes multiple applications.

It did seem to burn the hairs though. I'm at day 42, and I'm finding very tiny spots of PM, just a couple, so I'll be spraying the Z/P again, but at 3ml Zone and full strength Penetrator, and hopefully this concentration won't burn the hairs of my nugs.

I may just spot-spray, although if it begins to spread again I'll spray everything down.

In my other room, I'm spraying Z/P preventively in veg, and no signs of PM at all. The stuff works!

 

[subrob]

ok...this thread has been going on for awhile(great thread by the way gt)...i know that peoples' opinions change over time, as mine have, so i would like to put up a few points and have peeps here break em down for me and give thier opinions on the following statements, lemme know what the general consensus is. keep in mind, i am a personal gardener that doesnt run out of herb/hash much, and when i do, i have bros that hook me up thru the rough patches. lemme know what ya think....

1) i am on perpetual harvest, have plants anywhere from day teens to day 50s...so unless i take a break from putting anything else in flower, waiting for the room to empty, and burning sulfor and cleaning room i will NEVER get rid of pm in there

2) i NEVER spray anything on a plant w flowers after 2 weeks of flowering as it will get in the buds, possibly molding, but at the very least affecting taste of finished product

3) i never burn sulfor after a plant is flowering for more then 2 - 3 weeks as it will affect taste of final flower

....i had some more statements for you all to break down for me, but im at work, completely wired out on caffeine and one of my employees just completely disrupted my train of thought....basically, i have 4 hash plants at day, i dunno, 14 ithink, and 4 plants(alien dawg cherry, alien dawg ether, dud, ecsd) that are between 40ish and 55is that im thinking of just shit canning(not that the pm is THAT bad at this point, but i am willing to burn sulfor w the hash plants at this stage)..i have plants ready to go into flower to take the place of the ones i shit can. i just harvested a chemd at day 62 cuz she was showing pm, and an ffa i took real early, like mid 40s(just gonna add it too bubble bags trim for flavor and mass)
...hit me w some opinions. what do you all think i should do?

 

[subrob]

heres my dilemna....

heres my dilemna....

...these pics dont show the pm...just a few macros i took last night that show how gooooood this stuff should be, and i am having great difficulty walking into my flower room w a pair of scissors to get rid of these girls
....first, ecsd starting to come into her own:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=17856&pictureid=380343

...alien dawg ether lookin golden:

...alien dawg cherry:

 

[krunchbubble]

ok...this thread has been going on for awhile(great thread by the way gt)...i know that peoples' opinions change over time, as mine have, so i would like to put up a few points and have peeps here break em down for me and give thier opinions on the following statements, lemme know what the general consensus is. keep in mind, i am a personal gardener that doesnt run out of herb/hash much, and when i do, i have bros that hook me up thru the rough patches. lemme know what ya think....

1) i am on perpetual harvest, have plants anywhere from day teens to day 50s...so unless i take a break from putting anything else in flower, waiting for the room to empty, and burning sulfor and cleaning room i will NEVER get rid of pm in there

2) i NEVER spray anything on a plant w flowers after 2 weeks of flowering as it will get in the buds, possibly molding, but at the very least affecting taste of finished product

3) i never burn sulfor after a plant is flowering for more then 2 - 3 weeks as it will affect taste of final flower

....i had some more statements for you all to break down for me, but im at work, completely wired out on caffeine and one of my employees just completely disrupted my train of thought....basically, i have 4 hash plants at day, i dunno, 14 ithink, and 4 plants(alien dawg cherry, alien dawg ether, dud, ecsd) that are between 40ish and 55is that im thinking of just shit canning(not that the pm is THAT bad at this point, but i am willing to burn sulfor w the hash plants at this stage)..i have plants ready to go into flower to take the place of the ones i shit can. i just harvested a chemd at day 62 cuz she was showing pm, and an ffa i took real early, like mid 40s(just gonna add it too bubble bags trim for flavor and mass)
...hit me w some opinions. what do you all think i should do?

the 10% hydrogen peroxide method works for pm late in flowering stages, works best on day of chop.

but, you NEED to get rid of the pm, not battle it with sulfur.

eagle 20 kills pm, its a systemic fungicide.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=161425

if you were to spray your vegging plants, or spray flowering plants up to day 10, on a 70 day strain, you will eradicate the pm.

may take a little time since your on perpetual. but this is a for sure way to once and for all, get rid of it!

 

[puff adder]

Systemic seems the easiest, I plan to get some Eagle20 very soon.

You're in the same boat as myself, no way I'm spraying anything in late flower that would make the smoke bad or dangerous. That leaves these options as far as I can see, in order of effectiveness from what I've read.

High PH water
1 to 10 nonfat milk/water
Baking soda and water
Hydrogen peroxide
Zone/penetrator

I've tried the Zone Penetrator, and it seems to work very well. It did burn the hairs however at 10ml Zone/60ml Penetrator. It is supposed to be fine to use in late flower. I've read that it has actually cured/eliminated PM for some people.

My area's disease pressure is off the charts. Late rains (It's raining right now!!) and vineyards for miles. I keep exact control of my grow environment, and I still got PM for the first time.

SO, from now on, I'm behaving as if I automatically have PM Always. I'll be using the Eagle 20 on my new room before I flip to 12-12, and I'll probably use a sulfur burner in the future preventatively in veg. I'm hoping the Eagle 20 works as well as others report, that would make PM as easy as using Floromite is for mites. Just remember to apply before you flip and no more worries.

 

[subrob]

thanks mucho krunch...i just talked to a local guy who was telling me bout this new sierra natural science product...its the sns224...supposed to be systemic and coming out at the end of the month(they dont have the eagle20, though im sure i can find it local)....anyways...i will try the hydrogen p system for whats left in my flower tent, treat everything in veg w the systemic and hope for the best(also burning sulfor couple hours a week in veg as usual-they only see it again when they go in the perpetual harvest room)...now if i use the hydro per on what is already in flower, will the plants currently in veg be susceptible to the pm once they go IN to the flower room w the last of the infected plants that only got treated w sulfor in veg and hydr per for the last 50 odd days of flower? still trying to figure out if i should just scrap whats in there. i want to be rid of this menace once and for all.

 

[Yesca73]

my mistake 10ml/gal ZONE
240ml/gal SATURATOR(reg dose as per bottle)
did not rinse with plain H2o after
just dip, shake and dry

 

[Gold123]

my mistake 10ml/gal ZONE
240ml/gal SATURATOR(reg dose as per bottle)
did not rinse with plain H2o after
just dip, shake and dry

So if I need a 10 gal tub to dunk in I will need over2 bottles

 

[krunchbubble]

thanks mucho krunch...i just talked to a local guy who was telling me bout this new sierra natural science product...its the sns224...supposed to be systemic and coming out at the end of the month(they dont have the eagle20, though im sure i can find it local)....anyways...i will try the hydrogen p system for whats left in my flower tent, treat everything in veg w the systemic and hope for the best(also burning sulfor couple hours a week in veg as usual-they only see it again when they go in the perpetual harvest room)...now if i use the hydro per on what is already in flower, will the plants currently in veg be susceptible to the pm once they go IN to the flower room w the last of the infected plants that only got treated w sulfor in veg and hydr per for the last 50 odd days of flower? still trying to figure out if i should just scrap whats in there. i want to be rid of this menace once and for all.

im pretty sure they wont get the pm if you sprayed the veg plants with the eagle 20, it has a 30 day cycle.

the sns224 should have a 30+ day cycle if its systemic.....

 

[spadedNfaded]

I've been battling this crap for the past few weeks now. I tried h202, neem, another depot fungicide and zone/protector. I am now using 2 small-medium room HEPAs. Ive managed to get it to hold back but one of the strains, Cocktail Frank's Big Pink Pole, is very susceptible to it. i'm growing BPP, Mango haze, Shire all on day 32 12/12.

Now i believe i did this to myself and i can admit when i'm wrong to learn from my mistakes. I accidentally left the lid on one of the rubbermaids that i mixed my organic soil up for this run. When i noticed the next afternoon when i opened the lid i saw small patches of white mold. I immediately ran for the neem spray, came back, cracked it open and launched an 8oz spray assault on the inside. i scooped out the top inch or so afterwards and...here it is...thought that it would be fine.

When i noticed these methods(neem, h202 etc) werent working i started to think back and remembered this taking place. I think mine is recurring from the soil, so i mixed a light amount of neem, did 1-16oz cup of (1/2 tsp/gal) per 2gal pot then followed it up with another of plain water.

BPP is still showing spots but it's getting to the inner parts now instead of the fans. I inspect them like a surgeon everyday cuz i keep my numbers small. When i find a spot i spray a small amount to the specific spot and then surrounding area.

The Mango haze and Shire are acting as if they're trying to fight it off so i'm going to isolate the BPPs. Tomorrow is gonna be a biological warzone. Z/P dip, bleach and clean every surface in the cabs. spray top of soil with neem and put em back in the rooms.

I'm trying not to order anything else if i don't have to and hydro stores are out of the question. Hopefully this helps, if not the SM-90 looks like my next addition.

- SubN

 

[subrob]

another question...im having boucoup trouble finding the eagle locally...but everyone seems to sell the monterey gardens agri-fos...i am also internet retarded(excuse me, developmentally disabled) and seem to be having trouble comparing info on the two. anyone use this product? if its from monterey i would normally just assume its good to go, but im tired of making mistakes w p.m.!

 

[subrob]

growers rock