puff adder
Member
I ordered Eagle 20 from Ebay, $46 plus shipping, got it in 3 days.
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Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
- Start date
mark6699331
Active member
Yeah 3-5 ml zone is good. It will turn the hairs brown but that doesn't mean anything. Just keep a calender so you know the proper harvest date. The best way is to do it in veg so you never get it in flower. Eraticate it permanitely in veg. 3 dunks 3 days apart does the trick. Its much easier with small rooted cuts as well and takes less liquid which saves money. Be proactive. Asssume all cuts you get are already infected and treat them in veg and you should't see it in flower at alll.
Cheers,
Mark
Cheers,
Mark
mikeross
Member
Full strength for the penetrator... in canada I believe its called saturator.
I think you guys spraying this combo at 10ml is a little strong. I have done 2 applications of a 3ml zone/full strength penetrator and I had very slight hair turn brown. This is my first time dealing with pwdery mildew so I freaked out seeing it so late in flower for the first time. L
Lucky it worked out to some degree. I first noticed it in many hidden areas among 14 large tree's while doing a defoliation @ day 21. I could not dip so I sprayed with a 1liter shitty spray bottle. All was gone with a very light residue of the aftermath, which is normal. I noticed the powdery mildew back in about 10 days but only on 2 plants in very small areas this time... talking just a few leaves. I feel that my shitty little windex style spray bottle was the culprit. I sprayed them 10 days later for their second application with a nice pressurized spray gun... way better coverage. If I followed the recommended application times of every 3 days I probably would not have seen it again... we shall see.
I am very late in flower and probably going to only do 1 week applications now for the last 2 weeks. Anyone care to chime in on this. Should I still be spraying still every 3 days? I am worried about molding these hard kush buds.
I am extremely happy with the combo and looking forward to next round and incorporating it in my veg room, at that age I can actually dunk them.
You say full strengt saturator, is that 60ml/gal? 15ml/L?
mikeross
Member
Honestly I gotta go look at the bottle. I know for sure though that I use the lowest dose on the back of the bottle for the zone and the highest dosage for the saturator. If you follow what it says on the back of the bottles and use the highest or lowest dosing depending which product your mixing you will have the same mix I use.
Anyone care to chim in on constant 3 day treatments up until harvest? I have never sprayed before and have 2 treatments under my belt. I still feel very scared soaking these girls down so much.
Like I said in the above post I spray every 10 days... should I bring this down to ever 3 days right up until harvest?
GolfProGrower
New member
If I was going to spray a milk or h202 solution on plants later in flowering, say day 40, whats the best time to do it.....just before lights on, or after they go off?
puff adder
Member
I used the Zone/Penetrator combo on a run a while back. It worked pretty well. What I noticed was the PM came back, but when I applied the Z/P every 2 or 3 days for 2 or 3 applications, that the PM actually receded as time went on, so I'd say multiple applications is best. I sprayed everything, even the nugs, and got no mold.
Now I use Eagle-20 in veg, and PM is a distant memory.
Now I use Eagle-20 in veg, and PM is a distant memory.
CuZZn BooBerry
Member
Eagle-20 is the absolute way to eradicate any PM for good! Only use in VEG!! Krunchbubble has a thread on it, check it out! 
Eagle-20 is the absolute way to eradicate any PM for good! Only use in VEG!! Krunchbubble has a thread on it, check it out!
i agree. dont wast your time with the DM dunks unless your in flower...... if in veg i def recomend eagle-20 it is the truth!
for pm use saturator at 30ml/L and zone at 15ml/L... so add 30ml of saturator and 15ml of zone to a quart of water and you're good to go; spray every other day for 3 days
if you have pm in your room/ac/outside and you don't spray the walls or fix the initial problem it will come back; eagle20 stays in the plant for about 30 days so spray at flip for maximum protection
if you have pm in your room/ac/outside and you don't spray the walls or fix the initial problem it will come back; eagle20 stays in the plant for about 30 days so spray at flip for maximum protection
pokergod
Member
Went surfing and found this about zone:
Product Spotlight Dutch Master Zone
01/04/2008 - Dutch Master
Product Spotlight Dutch Master: Zone
ZONE is another DUAL-USE DUTCH MASTER SOLUTION PRODUCT that is cheep enough to use right through all stages of growth! Gentle enough to be used as a maintenance preventative. ZONE is also powerful enough to solve already existing root zone or powdery mildew problems. Compared to other root zone sanitizers/conditioners. ZONE is up to 50 times more economical to use and provides 2-solutions to 2-common problems!
Protecting Your Root Zone!
We all know that fast growing plants have a big demand for food and water but did you know that if your root system is not optimized then your plants might be missing out on the ability to uptake all that they need? ZONE ensures that your root system and environment are optimized so that your plants can take up to 100% of what they need.... all the time!
Modern root cleansing and sanitizing products, such as hydrogen peroxide can be harsh on your plants delicate root structures leaving you with plants that are unable to grow to their maximum potential. Dutch Master ZONE change all that with its modern gentle and ultra effective root zone optimization and sanitizing actions.
Based on high tech water sanltization systems emplyed by modern cities all over the world this type of sanitization ensures that your plants root system and environment is optimized and sanitized allowing your plants to grow big pearly white and healthy roots.
Protecting Your Root Zone!
To PREVENT may root based problems such as fungus gnat, thrips, and root rot from being established in hydroponic systems and media add 1 teaspoon of Dutch Master ZONE to 2.5 gallons of water/nutrient solution.
To CORRECT or CURE existing root based problems such as fungus gnats, thrip, and root rot and 1 tablespoon of Dutch Master ZONE to 2.5 gallons of water nutrient solution
When adding to your reservoir it is important to note that though ZONE is so gentle that you can use it for the life of your entire crop its super-sanitation properties cannot distinguish between GOOD and BAD bacteria. When using ZONE we do not recommend using any beneficial bacteria as it will be ineffective
Solving Powdery Mildew Issues
Did you know that ZONE ca be used a s a foliar spray to rid your plants of powdery mildew? Often only one application is needed to cure your plant of its mildew problem. In about 2-3 days your plants should be rid of that nasty white residue. The following foliar dosage recommendation for treating powdery mildew problems is safe and gentle enough to be used as a preventative measure on a continuous basis to stoop mildew before it starts.
Instructons-Powedery Mildew
To RID or PREVENT powdery mildew and 1 Tablespoon of ZONE AND 1 Tablespoon +1 teaspoon of Penetrator to 1 quart of water and Spot treat plants on infected leaves.
Back to Articles Index »
Interesting in that they recommend 15ml of zone to 20ml Penetrator for one quart of water, as foliar. Seems to be too strong a mixture. I find 3 ml of zone/quart quite good. Interesting that you can you it to kill fungus gnats and thrips, only thing is that if you use beneficials, zone will wipe them out also.
Product Spotlight Dutch Master Zone
01/04/2008 - Dutch Master
Product Spotlight Dutch Master: Zone
ZONE is another DUAL-USE DUTCH MASTER SOLUTION PRODUCT that is cheep enough to use right through all stages of growth! Gentle enough to be used as a maintenance preventative. ZONE is also powerful enough to solve already existing root zone or powdery mildew problems. Compared to other root zone sanitizers/conditioners. ZONE is up to 50 times more economical to use and provides 2-solutions to 2-common problems!
Protecting Your Root Zone!
We all know that fast growing plants have a big demand for food and water but did you know that if your root system is not optimized then your plants might be missing out on the ability to uptake all that they need? ZONE ensures that your root system and environment are optimized so that your plants can take up to 100% of what they need.... all the time!
Modern root cleansing and sanitizing products, such as hydrogen peroxide can be harsh on your plants delicate root structures leaving you with plants that are unable to grow to their maximum potential. Dutch Master ZONE change all that with its modern gentle and ultra effective root zone optimization and sanitizing actions.
Based on high tech water sanltization systems emplyed by modern cities all over the world this type of sanitization ensures that your plants root system and environment is optimized and sanitized allowing your plants to grow big pearly white and healthy roots.
Protecting Your Root Zone!
To PREVENT may root based problems such as fungus gnat, thrips, and root rot from being established in hydroponic systems and media add 1 teaspoon of Dutch Master ZONE to 2.5 gallons of water/nutrient solution.
To CORRECT or CURE existing root based problems such as fungus gnats, thrip, and root rot and 1 tablespoon of Dutch Master ZONE to 2.5 gallons of water nutrient solution
When adding to your reservoir it is important to note that though ZONE is so gentle that you can use it for the life of your entire crop its super-sanitation properties cannot distinguish between GOOD and BAD bacteria. When using ZONE we do not recommend using any beneficial bacteria as it will be ineffective
Solving Powdery Mildew Issues
Did you know that ZONE ca be used a s a foliar spray to rid your plants of powdery mildew? Often only one application is needed to cure your plant of its mildew problem. In about 2-3 days your plants should be rid of that nasty white residue. The following foliar dosage recommendation for treating powdery mildew problems is safe and gentle enough to be used as a preventative measure on a continuous basis to stoop mildew before it starts.
Instructons-Powedery Mildew
To RID or PREVENT powdery mildew and 1 Tablespoon of ZONE AND 1 Tablespoon +1 teaspoon of Penetrator to 1 quart of water and Spot treat plants on infected leaves.
Back to Articles Index »
Interesting in that they recommend 15ml of zone to 20ml Penetrator for one quart of water, as foliar. Seems to be too strong a mixture. I find 3 ml of zone/quart quite good. Interesting that you can you it to kill fungus gnats and thrips, only thing is that if you use beneficials, zone will wipe them out also.
If your humidity and airflow can't be tweaked anymore, here is some other ways you can avoid P.M. ( Soil Growers )
Clean top layer of soil off 2x a week.
Clean your floor everytime you water.
Clean your venting and everything else at least 1x a week.
Actinovate in the roots when transplanted.
If you still get hosed, green cure is the best I have ever found to aid the white devil in flower, but I still suggest the trash can for good karma.
A lot of people I know claim to have the spores on plants that grow outside in NW and SW Colorado and therefore have to deal with it all the time. I don't know if that is valid but cleanliness is #1 after airflow/humidity to control P.M.
Clean top layer of soil off 2x a week.
Clean your floor everytime you water.
Clean your venting and everything else at least 1x a week.
Actinovate in the roots when transplanted.
If you still get hosed, green cure is the best I have ever found to aid the white devil in flower, but I still suggest the trash can for good karma.
A lot of people I know claim to have the spores on plants that grow outside in NW and SW Colorado and therefore have to deal with it all the time. I don't know if that is valid but cleanliness is #1 after airflow/humidity to control P.M.
RedReign
Active member
I have a very mild case of PM on some girls 14-17 days from harvest. I noticed just a few spots on fan leaves last week, but it is twice as bad this week.
Is there something I can spray the girls with that won't harm the pistils or frost? Greencure? Or maybe just high PH RO water. I don't want to kill the quality or bag appeal.
I might be able to make it to harvest before the PM gets to the buds, but I would prefer to try to knock the PM down, if it won't harm the pistils/frost.
Is there something I can spray the girls with that won't harm the pistils or frost? Greencure? Or maybe just high PH RO water. I don't want to kill the quality or bag appeal.
I might be able to make it to harvest before the PM gets to the buds, but I would prefer to try to knock the PM down, if it won't harm the pistils/frost.
I just spent the last 2 days reading (off and on) this entire thread after discovering a little pm infesting my ladies. Thank you everyone for all of the great info. The forums are the absolute best place to find information. I went out purchased zone and saturator.
Before coming upon this thread it was suggested to me that seranade is a good product to use, and I have, but man o man does it smell bad. Anyhoo, seranade has done the trick for me thus far (its been 3 days since spraying but if it comes back Ill be treating them with the zone combo, thx mark!).
I assume the sulpher in the zone is the magic ingredient, the miricile surfactant helps with saturation and uptake of the sulpher. Also, someone asked a ways back if zone would be compatible with organic gardening and I would have to say no, its a chemical fertilizer basically. I have an organic garden (thus far) but am willing to change that if pm rears its head again after the seranade treatment.
Before coming upon this thread it was suggested to me that seranade is a good product to use, and I have, but man o man does it smell bad. Anyhoo, seranade has done the trick for me thus far (its been 3 days since spraying but if it comes back Ill be treating them with the zone combo, thx mark!).
I assume the sulpher in the zone is the magic ingredient, the miricile surfactant helps with saturation and uptake of the sulpher. Also, someone asked a ways back if zone would be compatible with organic gardening and I would have to say no, its a chemical fertilizer basically. I have an organic garden (thus far) but am willing to change that if pm rears its head again after the seranade treatment.
bigbuds420
New member
"gold range"?
"gold range"?
I have a sample bottle of DM "gold range zone" .06-0-.015 and "gold range saturator" .006-0-.003.
The bottle for "gold range zone" say's to use 5ml/5gallon for light use.
The "gold range" saturator says 60ml/litre.
So that would mean i use .5ml/litre of zone and 60ml/litre saturator?
Is this DM "gold range zone" a different product then dm zone? and is it used at a different strength?
I dont know. Any help is appreciated.
"gold range"?
I have a sample bottle of DM "gold range zone" .06-0-.015 and "gold range saturator" .006-0-.003.
The bottle for "gold range zone" say's to use 5ml/5gallon for light use.
The "gold range" saturator says 60ml/litre.
So that would mean i use .5ml/litre of zone and 60ml/litre saturator?
Is this DM "gold range zone" a different product then dm zone? and is it used at a different strength?
I dont know. Any help is appreciated.
thatgreenstuff
Member
Is there a certain humidity level that PM cannot survive at ?.. Im almost at 3 weeks into flower and I have about 50% humidity 75 - 80 degrees F.. I only see small patches of PM on about 1 % of the fan leaves. But I am very worried. I have hit them with serenade about a week ago but its back on a few of the lower leaves. Also I have been defoliating like crazy since yesterday because i figured defoliation is a good deterrent of PM because of the increased airflow ( not sure if thats true). Im in a small cabinet in my closet with good ventilation but i dont have any fans inside, but im going to buy some today.
D
draco
i got tired of fucking around with it - eagle 20 when they go into the flower tent worked for me.
thanks Krunchbubble!
thanks Krunchbubble!
MMJGrowDoctor
Member
I really hate to say this "BUT"
The best way to rid PM is to fix the problem with the room. I can tell you from experience that the best thing to do is add more fans and get the Humidity down, I live in the Great Northwest and we cannot get away from these type molds. I built a new room a couple months back in Aug, and in Dec we had a PM problem. We doused all the plants and I went to work fixing the problem.
The best way to circulate the air is under and over the plants. You can never have to much air movement.
Also low temps at lights out (night) can be a big problem too. But a HEPA filter on the intake and good air movement with proper temps will keep it out of the room, I was recommended a Sulfur burner and burning a few times a week up to flower.
Please do not add any harsh chemicals during flower as these are going to stay in the plant tissue and will be smoked when done.
GD
The best way to rid PM is to fix the problem with the room. I can tell you from experience that the best thing to do is add more fans and get the Humidity down, I live in the Great Northwest and we cannot get away from these type molds. I built a new room a couple months back in Aug, and in Dec we had a PM problem. We doused all the plants and I went to work fixing the problem.
The best way to circulate the air is under and over the plants. You can never have to much air movement.
Also low temps at lights out (night) can be a big problem too. But a HEPA filter on the intake and good air movement with proper temps will keep it out of the room, I was recommended a Sulfur burner and burning a few times a week up to flower.
Please do not add any harsh chemicals during flower as these are going to stay in the plant tissue and will be smoked when done.
GD
