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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
I have a phantom is the reason I ask. I just noticed it when i went in there last night, wonder if it has something to do with the cold
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
No sound at all from the 315's very low hum from the 630 you have to get close to hear it. They do get hot. You can't keep your hand on 1 for to long..

I gave them what they wanted. Now I will see if they give me what I want ;).. The plants on the left are under 1 315 waiting there turn to flower. All the plant in the tent are under the 630.. Lights where raised for pic.. Be careful how close you put it. it can still cause damage if to close.

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Horselover Fat

Member
Veteran
My Dpapillon is completely quiet. The fixture doesn't get hot either. It's warm to touch, but not at all hot.

Here's a picture of my scrog after 11 nights. Three female seeds grapefruits in autopots. The blue line shows where the screen is. I removed most growth under the screen from the right and left plants, but the middle one is still waiting for her turn.

So far the dpap seems like a perfect match for my grow space.
 

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psyphish

Well-known member
Veteran
Here's a picture of my current setup. The flowering plant in the back right is 27 days into 12/12, the rest have been put in the tent at various times, the front center plant went into the tent a couple of days ago.

ps. I can sometimes hear a slight high pitched whining from my d-papillons, it comes and goes.

 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
They do get hot. You can't keep your hand on 1 for to long..

my wellthink ballasts get hot also - which is surprising, because my original 315w CMH (made by "bolder lite" a company who doesn't want to really market to the cannabis growers) didn't get hot at all - got "warm" but not hot. perhaps more heatsink action in and outside the box than wellthinks? there was no fan or anything remarkably different about it;
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ballast was mounted on top of a regular box style hood;
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Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
The amount of heat created in the ballast is the difference between actual power consumption & lamp wattage. The ability of the ballast casing to dissipate heat is what determines its temperature. Different designs will balance at a different delta T, being warmer or cooler to the touch, depending.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I'm using 3 diferant vendors. Phantom , Welthink , Sun Systems. All might use Phillips. All get very hot. SS is the coolest but that's because I cant touch the ballast inside. They need to take 25lbs off the SS design. It's a heavy SOB. I'm pretty sure the Phantom and welthink are epoxy encased. I cant see the SS so not sure.
 

Avenger

Well-known member
Veteran
From what I have gathered, the Sunsystem actually uses the Philips ballast with a step up transformer, similar to what Advanced Tech sells. So this would explain the extra weight with it.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My experience seems to be substantially different than most of you. I used all Philips ballasts, and since they only dissipate 26 watts, I wasn't overly concerned about a really efficient thermal design. I have one mounted in a close-fitting sheet aluminum box, two mounted in the OEM dual-ballast cast-aluminum enclosure, and three mounted inside of an 8"-square gutter along with numerous other components (relays, fuses, etc).

None of them run what I would consider warm - they all are slightly over room temperature.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
From what I have gathered, the Sunsystem actually uses the Philips ballast with a step up transformer, similar to what Advanced Tech sells. So this would explain the extra weight with it.

It would be interesting if a 120v sun system owner would test their system with a kill-a-watt meter or similar so we could see what sort of inefficiency the transformer adds.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
My experience seems to be substantially different than most of you. I used all Philips ballasts, and since they only dissipate 26 watts, I wasn't overly concerned about a really efficient thermal design. I have one mounted in a close-fitting sheet aluminum box, two mounted in the OEM dual-ballast cast-aluminum enclosure, and three mounted inside of an 8"-square gutter along with numerous other components (relays, fuses, etc).

None of them run what I would consider warm - they all are slightly over room temperature.

My ceramatecs are quite warm to the touch but not hot, not like a person could get burned at all.
 
I have the sunsystems and just picked up a new one from the same guy avi got his last 2 from.. rocky mountain grow lights. It looks very different than my ss but I haven't yet set it up yet. Tonight I will.
 

Avenger

Well-known member
Veteran
It would be interesting if a 120v sun system owner would test their system with a kill-a-watt meter or similar so we could see what sort of inefficiency the transformer adds.

According to the Sunlight Supply spec sheet, the 120 volt version consumes 360 watts compared to 341 watts for the 240 volt version.

The weight for the 120 volt version is 20.25 pounds and the 240 volt version is 11.65 pounds.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for that, Avenger. It's important to understand actual power consumption if planning multiple light applications. They're apparently using a pretty beefy step up transformer which is a good thing.

It's interesting how that plays against standard house wiring in comparison to standard HID. A normal 15A circuit will only support one 1000w lamp following the 80% rule but it will support four 315's drawing 360w each. That's basically twice as much light. Anything else would need to be on a different circuit. Stepping up to a 20A breaker will run five 315's w/ 160w of headroom for other stuff but it won't run two 1000w lamps following the 80% rule. Four 315's on a 20A circuit + fans & pumps would be well within safe limits, for example.

It means a lot of growers can avoid additional wiring to get what they want using 315's. It also means they can use a variety of un-fused lighting controllers safely because the breaker matches the cords to the equipment.
 
It means a lot of growers can avoid additional wiring to get what they want using 315's. It also means they can use a variety of un-fused lighting controllers safely because the breaker matches the cords to the equipment.

I've been meaning to ask how folks are switching multiple 315's. What sort of "off the shelf" controllers are y'all using? I was thinking of something from Sentinel, since I've got their CHHC environmental controller on order.

LH
 

CHEFfy

Member
I'll post pics later today of my 3 phantom setup with controller. I build my own controllers now, but this setup utilizes an "off the shelf" model from my very first setup years ago.
 
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