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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)

rives

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@rives...

I got a new 8 light controller.. I'm using 6 630w cmh lights on it. It has 8 timed outlets @240v. 2 120v outlets 1 is constant 1 is trimmed.. The trimmed 120v is for my air intake.

Question can I use that constant 120v outlet for a 630w light 6amps? I want to plug in my veg light which is on 24/7 to it. I think its fine but wanted to get ur input.

It sounds like it should be fine, HH. I'd take a peek inside and make sure that they didn't use undersized wire or receptacles that use stabs rather than clamp connections or stakons.
 

Hammerhead

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Its a Hydrocrunch 8.. The 1st thing I did was open it;). For such a cheap controller they used 10g wire. The only thing I don't like is they used those Duplex X Receptacle. Overall not bad for 80$..

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rives

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Its a Hydrocrunch 8.. The 1st thing I did was open it;). For such a cheap controller they used 10g wire. The only thing I don't like is they used those Duplex X Receptacle. Overall not bad for 80$..

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I think that I'd be swapping those X receptacles out, you know that they don't meet any electrical standards!

Sounds like a pretty amazing bargain other than that.
 

Hammerhead

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I think that I'd be swapping those X receptacles out, you know that they don't meet any electrical standards!

Sounds like a pretty amazing bargain other than that.

Ya, It's odd they can sale these things but would fail inspection if used. I got some 240v outlet's on the way
 

zachrockbadenof

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i'm using '2' 315 hydro crunch cmh in a 4x3.5' tent (4 plants) ... just cut... don't have a final dry weight, but by the looks i am not impressed... i'll update with a final count...
 

dansbuds

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I think that I'd be swapping those X receptacles out, you know that they don't meet any electrical standards!

Sounds like a pretty amazing bargain other than that.


i wasn't worried about the outlets as i'm going to be the only one ever plugging things into it . but yeah i can see your point .:tiphat:
i have used regular 110 volt outlets on some of the units i built instead of buying 220volt outlets & then 220volt ballast cords too (yeah i'm a cheap ass :) ) but again ..... i'm the only one ever plugging things into it , so it didn't matter much to me .

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stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
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the thing that pisses me off about these cmh is if the electricity goes off for a minute these fuckers don't come back on. the electricity has to be off for at least 15 minutes for them to fire back up, other wise ya have to go in and push the timer 24 hours around to get them to fire back up after 15 minutes. fucked up when ya live in a high wind lots of snow area where yer juice can go off for short period of time.
 

Hammerhead

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That 15m delay is on all ballast not just CMH. Its a safety feature to let bulbs cool off before re fired. Hot strikes reduce bulb life. They should fire fine after that 15m delay. The ballast should continue to fire until it strikes..If ur using none CMH ballast that's prob why.
 

rives

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i wasn't worried about the outlets as i'm going to be the only one ever plugging things into it . but yeah i can see your point .:tiphat:
i have used regular 110 volt outlets on some of the units i built instead of buying 220volt outlets & then 220volt ballast cords too (yeah i'm a cheap ass :) ) but again ..... i'm the only one ever plugging things into it , so it didn't matter much to me .

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As an electrician, that shit makes my skin crawl...

Using heavy loads continuously on receptacles that won't meet any electrical standard in the world is a recipe for disaster. As for using the wrong voltage receptacle, there was a funny story on here years ago. The fellow involved was also an electrician, and confident in his ability to keep things straight. Then he had a leak on his flood & drain, and in trying to get it taken care of quickly, he plugged his shop vac into the unused portion of the receptacle feeding his lights...
 

PaulieWaulie

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As an electrician, that shit makes my skin crawl...

Using heavy loads continuously on receptacles that won't meet any electrical standard in the world is a recipe for disaster. As for using the wrong voltage receptacle, there was a funny story on here years ago. The fellow involved was also an electrician, and confident in his ability to keep things straight. Then he had a leak on his flood & drain, and in trying to get it taken care of quickly, he plugged his shop vac into the unused portion of the receptacle feeding his lights...

.....and then?

Heya just wanted to run it by you guys but I got my 630 (Dual 315) CMH set to 700Watts. Im covering a 5 by 8 foot area roughly at the moment so wanted the extra output and heat in the room (bumps it up by 1-2Celsius) there isnt anything wrong with this or crazy reduction in life of bulbs or ballast?

I assumed its an extra 11% of output so probably just 11% added to lifespan reduction.
 

Vanilla Phoenix

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i wasn't worried about the outlets as i'm going to be the only one ever plugging things into it . but yeah i can see your point .:tiphat:
i have used regular 110 volt outlets on some of the units i built instead of buying 220volt outlets & then 220volt ballast cords too (yeah i'm a cheap ass :) ) but again ..... i'm the only one ever plugging things into it , so it didn't matter much to me .

View Image

I’m guilty of that too. Lol
 

stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
Veteran
That 15m delay is on all ballast not just CMH. Its a safety feature to let bulbs cool off before re fired. Hot strikes reduce bulb life. They should fire fine after that 15m delay. The ballast should continue to fire until it strikes..If ur using none CMH ballast that's prob why.

No they are quality cmh ballasts and no they do not continue to fire. No my hps digital ballasts do not wait 15 minutes, they fire right back up when the electricity comes back on. all my gear is pretty new and it works exactly like i'm saying or i wouldn't be saying it:biggrin:
 

dansbuds

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As an electrician, that shit makes my skin crawl...

Using heavy loads continuously on receptacles that won't meet any electrical standard in the world is a recipe for disaster.
As for using the wrong voltage receptacle, there was a funny story on here years ago. The fellow involved was also an electrician, and confident in his ability to keep things straight. Then he had a leak on his flood & drain, and in trying to get it taken care of quickly, he plugged his shop vac into the unused portion of the receptacle feeding his lights...


the cheapest outlets are rated for 15 amps at least , & even with 2 ballasts plugged into one duplex outlet on 220volts is only going to draw 10amps max ...... so its not really all that bad . but yeah i would be worried about longevity on them , but its not like they're hard to replace .

now if i was building one for someone that had no clue about electrical ..... it would be built for overkill on all devices .
 

Hammerhead

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No they are quality cmh ballasts and no they do not continue to fire. No my hps digital ballasts do not wait 15 minutes, they fire right back up when the electricity comes back on. all my gear is pretty new and it works exactly like i'm saying or i wouldn't be saying it:biggrin:

Some of my older HPS ballast have that delay. You would have to look at the specs to see if it has that feature. All of my new ballast have it. If ur ballast does not have that feature. Look at the specs for hot re strikes. It will tell ya to wait 20 min to re fire bulbs. You should never try to re fire a hot bulb anyway. If Your bulbs are not re firing after that delay I dont know what to tell ya. Something isn't right. I have no issues re firing after the bulbs have cooled. This can take up to 30min

I use these.. The GC Series Digital Ballast uses a timed re-strike system that prevents the ballast from re-striking a hot lamp after a power failure. If a hot lamp is detected, the re-strike will be delayed for 60 second intervals until the lamp has cooled sufficiently to be re-ignited. Re-ignition is then controlled by 'Smart Start Ignition Control' and 'Soft Start Technology' software.

Solis tek ballast have something similar but its every 90 sec,.
This is all apart of our exclusive Sense Smart safety mechanism that we introduced to this industry in 2010. If it detects any sort of anomalies or disturbances it will turn off the lamp and attempt to re strike every 90 seconds until it deems that it is safe to ignite. 99% of the time an error code is displayed
 
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dansbuds

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My Galaxy 315 CMH ballasts have a small green LED on top by the power cord , when it shuts down for whatever reason (like power failure ) & needs to cool off before it will fire again ... the LED blinks . when it stops blinking , its ready to fire again & does so by itself .
 

Hammerhead

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If u must do that get some of those outlet covers and write on them what voltage is on them. I use them on all outlets that do not have something plugged in.
 
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