Yes. Purple City Genetics (based in Oakland, CA) sells some good autos. Their Saltwater OG (auto) has tested close to 30%. https://www.instagram.com/p/B-M7TkqhddR/
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Diary PCBuds mini-grow
- Thread starter PCBuds
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Yes. Purple City Genetics (based in Oakland, CA) sells some good autos. Their Saltwater OG (auto) has tested close to 30%. https://www.instagram.com/p/B-M7TkqhddR/
SuperBadGrower
Active member
Nice. This is the kind of nugget to look for when scouting seeds..
I dont know where to look for autos. I grew out seeds from 3 big name brands and also unbranded cheap pollen chucked seeds. The cheap shit was definitely the worst thing I've ever grown and I still have 90 seeds left over from the hermie(s).
I know the passion for dank auto bud is definitely there... You just wont find it at the big resellers
Many seeds just go to whoever wants to resell them. Bulk sites selling mass seeds. Always on stock. Offering 50+ "home brand" strains. Seeds come in and probably get renamed to whatever sells. Almost none of the websites selling seeds do breeding ... Proper breeding of multiple lines is a logistic feat, takes time, autoflowers even more so.
Better get it from someone passionate who loves smoking & breeding dank weed.
One good indicator is how many lines they have & how many are released each year. Nowadays I mostly look at seeds from places that release only a handful of new lines per year. (Or none)
If there are interviews where the breeders put themselves out there, even better. You won't see bulk resellers doing interviews because they don't grow the plants and probably don't even have intentions to test seeds. Check out the Autoflower podcast.
On average the cheap seeds have a higher chance to produce undesirable plants.
IME the cheap autoflower seeds are worse than the cheap fems & should really be avoided if yuou are dedicating resources to plants. (Putting a plant outside in a pot is not really dedicating resources in my book, paying expensive power for 11+ weeks is)
RE: resources, funnily enough it's the same energy cost basically
Photoperiod: 504 hrs (4w veg) 756 hrs (8w flower) = 1260 hrs
Autoflower: 1260 hrs (10 weeks 18/6)
Incidentally the same daylight hours but I think it goes to show that there is no magic shortcuts. I guess 10 weeks is still quite optimistic for autoflowers based on what Ive grown and what I see online.
BTW "cheap" is a word used loosely. When you buy a 10 or 12-pack from some great breeders the price per seed can be equal to or cheaper than the "cheap" seeds, bought in low quantity (like a 3 or 5-pack).
Maybe the adjective better describes the attitude of the breeder/reseller rather than the price of the product.
Take care I've killed seeds that way haha. That kind of heat can dry out paper towels quicker than you'd like
The bud youre drying will be its best quality if you run the AC I think!
Bad experiences, but I stay hopeful. When it becomes legal I want to grow only dank autoflowers outdoors. I'm so fucking tired of growing plants inside just to not get ripped off, and to not kill myself smoking commercial poison. It's a lot of work that nature could be doing instead of me.
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SuperBadGrower
Active member
Wow, that really is some next level audacity. What a case. Goes to show... Buyer beware!
PCBuds
Well-known member
Take care I've killed seeds that way haha. That kind of heat can dry out paper towels quicker than you'd like
The bud youre drying will be its best quality if you run the AC I think!
I checked the mug and it's just kinda warm on the bottom but the sides of the mug are still cool.
I'll be checking on the seed a few times a day to make sure she stays damp.
I just poured the excess water off after 16 hours.
I figured the drying room was too humid and I was worried about mold.
The numbers are looking a little better now.
My AC shuts off when the outside temperature hits 65°F and it won't run right now, but my numbers still look to be in the proper range.
Edit: I forgot about my infrared thermometer so I measured my shot glass under the mug and got 75°F so it's not too hot. There's still lots of moisture left.
Nice. This is the kind of nugget to look for when scouting seeds..
I dont know where to look for autos. I grew out seeds from 3 big name brands and also unbranded cheap pollen chucked seeds. The cheap shit was definitely the worst thing I've ever grown and I still have 90 seeds left over from the hermie(s).
I know the passion for dank auto bud is definitely there... You just wont find it at the big resellers
Many seeds just go to whoever wants to resell them. Bulk sites selling mass seeds. Always on stock. Offering 50+ "home brand" strains. Seeds come in and probably get renamed to whatever sells. Almost none of the websites selling seeds do breeding ... Proper breeding of multiple lines is a logistic feat, takes time, autoflowers even more so.
Better get it from someone passionate who loves smoking & breeding dank weed.
One good indicator is how many lines they have & how many are released each year. Nowadays I mostly look at seeds from places that release only a handful of new lines per year. (Or none)
If there are interviews where the breeders put themselves out there, even better. You won't see bulk resellers doing interviews because they don't grow the plants and probably don't even have intentions to test seeds. Check out the Autoflower podcast.
On average the cheap seeds have a higher chance to produce undesirable plants.
IME the cheap autoflower seeds are worse than the cheap fems & should really be avoided if yuou are dedicating resources to plants. (Putting a plant outside in a pot is not really dedicating resources in my book, paying expensive power for 11+ weeks is)
RE: resources, funnily enough it's the same energy cost basically
Photoperiod: 504 hrs (4w veg) 756 hrs (8w flower) = 1260 hrs
Autoflower: 1260 hrs (10 weeks 18/6)
Incidentally the same daylight hours but I think it goes to show that there is no magic shortcuts. I guess 10 weeks is still quite optimistic for autoflowers based on what Ive grown and what I see online.
BTW "cheap" is a word used loosely. When you buy a 10 or 12-pack from some great breeders the price per seed can be equal to or cheaper than the "cheap" seeds, bought in low quantity (like a 3 or 5-pack).
Maybe the adjective better describes the attitude of the breeder/reseller rather than the price of the product.
Take care I've killed seeds that way haha. That kind of heat can dry out paper towels quicker than you'd like
The bud youre drying will be its best quality if you run the AC I think!
Bad experiences, but I stay hopeful. When it becomes legal I want to grow only dank autoflowers outdoors. I'm so fucking tired of growing plants inside just to not get ripped off, and to not kill myself smoking commercial poison. It's a lot of work that nature could be doing instead of me.
I can't personally attest to their autos because I've never grown any, but I have a few of their clones which are on point. They have regulars which are some pretty great crosses, and more recently they seem to have stepped up their auto game..
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEsIUXZhPra/
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PCBuds
Well-known member
It's been 5 days and my seed has not cracked yet. All my other seeds had cracked by now and the last two CandyCane seeds cracked in two days so I decided to start another one.
The only thing I did differently was put that light above my upside-down mug so I decided to put both seeds in the rafters as I've always done before.
Fortunately, the weather has changed and I now have the furnace on which both help to keep the humidity down for my drying plant and get heat near the ceiling for my two seeds.
The mugs keep the seed dark and are hanging over the edge of the 2X4 to let air in.
I put some duct tape on the mug with the new seed to stop any light leaks.
Apparently, it can take up to 7 days to crack a seed so I'll give the first seed a few more days.
I also let the latest seed thaw out for a couple of hours before getting it wet in the shot glass.
If I get lucky, and both of them germinate, I'll grow another window plant but this time I'll use a regular pot and not do any experimenting.
The only thing I did differently was put that light above my upside-down mug so I decided to put both seeds in the rafters as I've always done before.
Fortunately, the weather has changed and I now have the furnace on which both help to keep the humidity down for my drying plant and get heat near the ceiling for my two seeds.
The mugs keep the seed dark and are hanging over the edge of the 2X4 to let air in.
I put some duct tape on the mug with the new seed to stop any light leaks.
Apparently, it can take up to 7 days to crack a seed so I'll give the first seed a few more days.
I also let the latest seed thaw out for a couple of hours before getting it wet in the shot glass.
If I get lucky, and both of them germinate, I'll grow another window plant but this time I'll use a regular pot and not do any experimenting.
SuperBadGrower
Active member
How's it going? Anything popped?
PCBuds
Well-known member
No.
The first seed did nothing and the second seed appears to have cracked but no movement now and it's the third day.
It might just need more time but I don't know what to think?
SuperBadGrower
Active member
Hmm, that doesn't sound promising. 
edit: Or maybe it does after all ^^
Good vigorous seeds usually pop that tail within 48 hours.
First 4, from left to right:
0 hours, 12 hours (crack visible), 12-48 hours (tail visible) - 48++ hours (hypocotyl growth starts) ( just some approximations from memory)
edit: Or maybe it does after all ^^
Good vigorous seeds usually pop that tail within 48 hours.
First 4, from left to right:
0 hours, 12 hours (crack visible), 12-48 hours (tail visible) - 48++ hours (hypocotyl growth starts) ( just some approximations from memory)
PCBuds
Well-known member
My house was a little cool so I turned on the furnace to warm the seeds up.
A bit like an incubator.
The temp was 71° and I warmed it up.
I was worried about my drying plant but as the temperature rose, the RH dropped, so I'm still in the range.
I'm giving it a week before I give up....
A bit like an incubator.
The temp was 71° and I warmed it up.
I was worried about my drying plant but as the temperature rose, the RH dropped, so I'm still in the range.
I'm giving it a week before I give up....
SuperBadGrower
Active member
When they make the bend they become anchored really well and some people have written that it becomes stronger. I'm not sure about that. Nowadays I always do it like in the picture. 10-12 hours in a glass of water and shallowly planted into the medium. (i.e. just fill a cup halfway with water and drop seeds in it)
If you use a paper towel style method, when you plant the seedlings into the medium you can do it in such a way that all of them are the same height measured from the top of the medium. This mitigates the initial difference between tall & short seedlings. That can be useful.
Anyway, brother nature has been popping weed seeds in dire situations for 7 million years and I've only been around for a few decades so I kind of superstitiously let nature do the work here. Size differences can be "mitigated" later on by means of plant training, raising pots, etc
If you use a paper towel style method, when you plant the seedlings into the medium you can do it in such a way that all of them are the same height measured from the top of the medium. This mitigates the initial difference between tall & short seedlings. That can be useful.
Anyway, brother nature has been popping weed seeds in dire situations for 7 million years and I've only been around for a few decades so I kind of superstitiously let nature do the work here. Size differences can be "mitigated" later on by means of plant training, raising pots, etc
PCBuds
Well-known member
I installed a doorbell for the cat.
I had to extend the button so she can push it but she doesn't want to ring the bell.
I keep showing her how to push the button but she just waits on the back porch until I let her in.
Maybe I can stick a cat treat on the button. Lol
I had to extend the button so she can push it but she doesn't want to ring the bell.
I keep showing her how to push the button but she just waits on the back porch until I let her in.
Maybe I can stick a cat treat on the button. Lol
PCBuds
Well-known member
@SuperBadGrower
I was wondering about my LED strips.
The one footers are rated 350 ma at the test current with a max of 700 ma.
Is it safe to say that two strips running at the test current are the same difference as one strip running at 700 ma?
Would you still get the same amount of "light" or photons? (other than how the efficiency drops off at higher current.)
Does it mean that I could put two strips twice as close to the plant than a single brighter strip?
PS... I love this movie.
I was wondering about my LED strips.
The one footers are rated 350 ma at the test current with a max of 700 ma.
Is it safe to say that two strips running at the test current are the same difference as one strip running at 700 ma?
Would you still get the same amount of "light" or photons? (other than how the efficiency drops off at higher current.)
Does it mean that I could put two strips twice as close to the plant than a single brighter strip?
PS... I love this movie.
SuperBadGrower
Active member
hah, I should watch that
Yep, that's 'kinda' how it works. The caveat is as you said: pushed past 100% there are efficacy losses which are mapped out in the data sheet. But density is intensity.
One lone strip at 350 mA will have a very small hotspot (if any, this is just an example)
Two strips at 350 mA close together will have a larger hotspot
With many overlapping light sources, and leaves potentially very close to the leds, that's something to keep in mind.
Above, by the time the beams of light intersect they already lost a lot of energy due to, well, photons diffusing in a 120 degree beam angle or something.
Below, there is a higher concentration of photons at the intersection because the light has traveled less distance
Yep, that's 'kinda' how it works. The caveat is as you said: pushed past 100% there are efficacy losses which are mapped out in the data sheet. But density is intensity.
One lone strip at 350 mA will have a very small hotspot (if any, this is just an example)
Two strips at 350 mA close together will have a larger hotspot
With many overlapping light sources, and leaves potentially very close to the leds, that's something to keep in mind.
Above, by the time the beams of light intersect they already lost a lot of energy due to, well, photons diffusing in a 120 degree beam angle or something.
Below, there is a higher concentration of photons at the intersection because the light has traveled less distance
