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PBP users post your formula
- Thread starter SuperToker
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G
Guest
loving this thread.. but kinda wondering if someone has came up with a lucas style formula yet for pbp. Seems we are getiing close with the NPK calculators and such but has anyone actually got it down to a science yet? Btw sometimes in flower i hit 21-2200 ppms with pbp.
A ratio of 17ml/gal PBP(Bloom, Soil) and 6ml/gal of Cal/Mag+ will get you very close to both the 100-100-200-60 N-P-K-Mg and 4-2-1 of K-Ca-Mg
N....104
P....83
K....197
Mg..43
Ca..99
That's very close to what Lucas suggests, I found those numbers to be closest to the two ratios I stated earlier, which I've found in several places across the web. I'll be trying these numbers with distilled water in DWC as soon as I can take clones off the seedlings I started a few days ago.
N....104
P....83
K....197
Mg..43
Ca..99
That's very close to what Lucas suggests, I found those numbers to be closest to the two ratios I stated earlier, which I've found in several places across the web. I'll be trying these numbers with distilled water in DWC as soon as I can take clones off the seedlings I started a few days ago.
G
Guest
tag
G
Guest
when to use hydroplex
when to use hydroplex
i am just starting 12/12 and i realized i wasn't sure when to use hydroplex. the site says last 2 - 3 weeks. as with everything people do as they please and find other ways with different and better results. please if you could let me know your personal opinion on hydroplex and the time line that you use it in. TIA
when to use hydroplex
i am just starting 12/12 and i realized i wasn't sure when to use hydroplex. the site says last 2 - 3 weeks. as with everything people do as they please and find other ways with different and better results. please if you could let me know your personal opinion on hydroplex and the time line that you use it in. TIA
Rush Limbong
Member
Good question^^^I'll be using Hydroplex also, I'd like to know too.
The guy at the Hydro shop kinda shrugged his shoulders and said Hydroplex was "ok"....told me "Kabloom" was THE shit......I was playing stupid, and asking him what was "the best". Maybe I wasn't playing cause I'm still not sure
The guy at the Hydro shop kinda shrugged his shoulders and said Hydroplex was "ok"....told me "Kabloom" was THE shit......I was playing stupid, and asking him what was "the best". Maybe I wasn't playing cause I'm still not sure
Im really starting to dig the topics you guys cover around here...Im a die hard PBP user myself now and goin on 2yrs..I started aprox 20yrs ago in soil with whatever was around and bout 4-5yrs back was in OForrest and using FFarm nutes to boot very similar to allot of folks here..Then I tried PBP out frustration from the wat my Tap was affecting my soil grows which pushed me to hydro/DWC. After reading most the post I see I followed the same path so Instead of goin thru my method I'll just add some quick notes Ive got to work great incase yo cant find certain things at the hydro shop neer ya..
I also use very low Nute formula and keep to around 200-350ppm in veg with even Med sized plants..This is in hydroton Drain2waist then transed to 6 site aerotub(pic of aer-tubs below)..From there they still only get 300-350ppm with only micro amounts of LK and Hydrogaured thru wk 1 of bloom then nutes go up to around 400-550max..I only use the Veg/Bloom/SoilBloom as a full bodied nutrient then I use LK for micro boost and later in bloom instead of PK13/14 which i cant get local I use AllNatural's BudBlaster in very micro amounts..But I still follow the same method as in Veg nute to Bloom to SoilBloom then I liten the mixture the closer they get to harvest to drain the plant instead of a flushing which I feel in organics is not really needed if you can finish the plant in the best natural way..
I dont use Cal-Mag at all cause my Tap is mixed with my RO to 50-80ppm before I even mix nutes so its already buffered and has plenty of Cal,Mag,Iron and all kinds of shit really...Most PBP nutes dont drop the PH like syth salts but the BudBlaster will and I only use that and Sweet in later Flower weeks..I do start giving micro amounts of BudBlaster in wk-3 and usually see great Trich production..I tried Hydroplex and it burned my girls up to easy but I do use SilicaBlast but not till wk4-5bloom and only earlier on weak plants that need stronger shoots cause thats what Silica will help in hydro mainly..I also have been trying Sucanat directly into my final week of not flushing but more leeching the plant near harvest..I dont like the way Sucanat holds in the weed and it burns a bit more slow but Im still testing the method and a nice combo of Sweet/Sucanat seems to be very nice..This is a Carb sub for later bloom when carbs are really needed to keep trich production at its fullest cause the liquid in the Trich is sugar and thats why it turns to amber when ripens as its carmalzing..yummeh..
I use DWC solo buckets in bloom so no sure how my way applies to others but might be somethin in here to use..great info from all here tho..Im still takin notes..
FOE20
I also use very low Nute formula and keep to around 200-350ppm in veg with even Med sized plants..This is in hydroton Drain2waist then transed to 6 site aerotub(pic of aer-tubs below)..From there they still only get 300-350ppm with only micro amounts of LK and Hydrogaured thru wk 1 of bloom then nutes go up to around 400-550max..I only use the Veg/Bloom/SoilBloom as a full bodied nutrient then I use LK for micro boost and later in bloom instead of PK13/14 which i cant get local I use AllNatural's BudBlaster in very micro amounts..But I still follow the same method as in Veg nute to Bloom to SoilBloom then I liten the mixture the closer they get to harvest to drain the plant instead of a flushing which I feel in organics is not really needed if you can finish the plant in the best natural way..
I dont use Cal-Mag at all cause my Tap is mixed with my RO to 50-80ppm before I even mix nutes so its already buffered and has plenty of Cal,Mag,Iron and all kinds of shit really...Most PBP nutes dont drop the PH like syth salts but the BudBlaster will and I only use that and Sweet in later Flower weeks..I do start giving micro amounts of BudBlaster in wk-3 and usually see great Trich production..I tried Hydroplex and it burned my girls up to easy but I do use SilicaBlast but not till wk4-5bloom and only earlier on weak plants that need stronger shoots cause thats what Silica will help in hydro mainly..I also have been trying Sucanat directly into my final week of not flushing but more leeching the plant near harvest..I dont like the way Sucanat holds in the weed and it burns a bit more slow but Im still testing the method and a nice combo of Sweet/Sucanat seems to be very nice..This is a Carb sub for later bloom when carbs are really needed to keep trich production at its fullest cause the liquid in the Trich is sugar and thats why it turns to amber when ripens as its carmalzing..yummeh..
I use DWC solo buckets in bloom so no sure how my way applies to others but might be somethin in here to use..great info from all here tho..Im still takin notes..
FOE20
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TNJed
Member
FOE20 is right about low doses! I went through a lot of problems w/ PBP until I learned that the recomended doses are way too strong! I was suffering from lockouts and overfert issues at around 10 ml/gal! I backed off to around 3-4 ml/gal (in addition to 5 ml/gal LK and around 5 ml/gal of PB Original). This is in tap water that starts at 130 ppm TDS and ph adjusted to around 5.6-5.9. I also want to mention that I run an aeroponic system that mists my roots 24/7, with water temps that stay in the low 70's(supplemented w/ hydroguard and hygrozyme). Since I backed way the fuck off things have been looking much, much better!!
Mr_Micro
Member
I've always kept my PBP formula pretty simple, since PBP has always worked wonders in my grows with little to no additives.
For hydro grows (I mainly do DWC, but I'm hope to try Ebb & Flow table with the same formula in the future) I start with water PH balanced to 5.8 and add 1/4 ounce of PBP Bloom to get the seedlings started. From there I just top off with plain PH 5.8 water for two weeks. I change the water once every 2 weeks, so once the plants are established and up to the 4th or 5th node (usually after 2 weeks) I start giving them 1/2 ounce of PBP Grow per gallon of water along with 1/4 ounce of Hydroguard and 1/4 ounce of Cal-Mag Plus. The reason I use Bloom instead of Grow is because I always go 12/12 straight from seed to keep the plants small.
I stick with this formula, changing the water every two weeks and topping off with plain PH balanced water in between, until the plants start really devoloping budsites and the stretching ends. At this point I move up to 1 ounce per gallon of PBP Bloom per gallon of water and continue using 1/4 ounce of Hydroguard and 1/4 ounce of Cal-Mag Plus as well. I just stick with this forumula until the last week of growth, when I give them only plain PH blanced water for the reamainder of the grow to flush them.
For soil grows my formula is even more simple. I use a Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil mix that consists of 3/4 FFOF soil to 1/4 Perlite with 1 tablespoon of Dolmetic Lime per gallon of soil added in.
I give the plants plain water balanced to a PH of 6.5 for the first few weeks or until the bottom set of leaves start to turn a little yellow from a nitrogen deffiency. At this point I know the FFOF soil has used up it's nutrient supply and I begin feeding once every 3 waterings with 1/4 ounce of PBP Bloom Soil Formula per gallon of water. Once again, I start with Bloom because I always grow 12/12 straight from seed. So my watering schedual is ---> plain water, plain water, nutrient water, plain water, plain water, nutrient water, etc., etc.
After that I just kinda eye the plants and if I see any signs of deffiency (which will usually happen after 2 or 3 weeks on 1/4 ounce per gallon of PBP) I step it up to 1/2 ounce per gallon of PBP Bloom Soil Formula in the water (still only once every 3 waterings) and if they're really nutrient hungry in late flowering I go up to 1 ounce per gallon of PBP. Also, during the last 4 weeks of flowering I like to add in 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses to the water as a natural bloom booster.
So yeah, thats pretty much it! To recap once more, heres what goes into the hydro formula and what goes into the soil formula...
====
Hydro
====
1/4, 1/2/ or 1 ounce per gallon of PBP Bloom
1/4 ounce per gallon of Cal-Mag Plus
1/4 ounce per gallon of Hydroguard
===
Soil
===
1/4, 1/2, or 1 ounce per gallon of Pureblend Pro Bloom Soil Formula
1 tablespoon per gallon of organic blackstrap molasses (only in the later flowering stages)
I'm a big believer in the KISS formula for sure, and never once have I been dissapointed with my results
For hydro grows (I mainly do DWC, but I'm hope to try Ebb & Flow table with the same formula in the future) I start with water PH balanced to 5.8 and add 1/4 ounce of PBP Bloom to get the seedlings started. From there I just top off with plain PH 5.8 water for two weeks. I change the water once every 2 weeks, so once the plants are established and up to the 4th or 5th node (usually after 2 weeks) I start giving them 1/2 ounce of PBP Grow per gallon of water along with 1/4 ounce of Hydroguard and 1/4 ounce of Cal-Mag Plus. The reason I use Bloom instead of Grow is because I always go 12/12 straight from seed to keep the plants small.
I stick with this formula, changing the water every two weeks and topping off with plain PH balanced water in between, until the plants start really devoloping budsites and the stretching ends. At this point I move up to 1 ounce per gallon of PBP Bloom per gallon of water and continue using 1/4 ounce of Hydroguard and 1/4 ounce of Cal-Mag Plus as well. I just stick with this forumula until the last week of growth, when I give them only plain PH blanced water for the reamainder of the grow to flush them.
For soil grows my formula is even more simple. I use a Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil mix that consists of 3/4 FFOF soil to 1/4 Perlite with 1 tablespoon of Dolmetic Lime per gallon of soil added in.
I give the plants plain water balanced to a PH of 6.5 for the first few weeks or until the bottom set of leaves start to turn a little yellow from a nitrogen deffiency. At this point I know the FFOF soil has used up it's nutrient supply and I begin feeding once every 3 waterings with 1/4 ounce of PBP Bloom Soil Formula per gallon of water. Once again, I start with Bloom because I always grow 12/12 straight from seed. So my watering schedual is ---> plain water, plain water, nutrient water, plain water, plain water, nutrient water, etc., etc.
After that I just kinda eye the plants and if I see any signs of deffiency (which will usually happen after 2 or 3 weeks on 1/4 ounce per gallon of PBP) I step it up to 1/2 ounce per gallon of PBP Bloom Soil Formula in the water (still only once every 3 waterings) and if they're really nutrient hungry in late flowering I go up to 1 ounce per gallon of PBP. Also, during the last 4 weeks of flowering I like to add in 1 tablespoon of organic blackstrap molasses to the water as a natural bloom booster.
So yeah, thats pretty much it! To recap once more, heres what goes into the hydro formula and what goes into the soil formula...
====
Hydro
====
1/4, 1/2/ or 1 ounce per gallon of PBP Bloom
1/4 ounce per gallon of Cal-Mag Plus
1/4 ounce per gallon of Hydroguard
===
Soil
===
1/4, 1/2, or 1 ounce per gallon of Pureblend Pro Bloom Soil Formula
1 tablespoon per gallon of organic blackstrap molasses (only in the later flowering stages)
I'm a big believer in the KISS formula for sure, and never once have I been dissapointed with my results
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illuminatus
Member
I gave plants 1500 ppm pbp grow in early veg and they ate it right up only slightly burning the tips, I have backed off and only noticed hungry girls. This is with a .5 conversion so that would be 3.0 ec which seems kind of high? On the botanicare site they list 2400 ppm as "super aggressive" 2400 even using the .7 conversion is around 3.0 ec which seems like alot. Should you feed massive bushes accordingly? Do plants vegged for 3 months need the higher nute levels?
G
Guest
Good question Illuminatis. Do bigger girls need more food? I've read every post and 15ml per gallon PBP seems very weak. Especially considering what I'm giving them:
I started using PBP Bloom Soil at 1tblsp per gallon - decent yield.
Upped it to 2tbslp per gallon - better yield.
Started adding 1/2 strength Hydrofarm Hydroponic Bloom Fertilizer (10-30-15) - almost doubled my yield. Upped that to full strenth - no real increase in yield, complaints of chemmy taste, burned if the temps got too warm - backed down to 1/2 strength.
Started adding 1tblsp per gallon feed-grade molasses - better tastes / smells.
Currently growing in 50/50 coco fiber / perlite. I add 1 tblsp per gallon Fox Farm Fruit and Flower dry formulae to the mix to give it a more organic feel and for added bacteria and fungi. Also using Plant Success at transplant.
Girls are in 5 gallon buckets with tomato cages. Averaging 4 feet tall. Yields are between 1 to 2 ounces a plant depending on strain. Some yield more than others. I feed at every watering and I add Hydroguard at 15ml per gallon, Sensizyme at 15ml per gallon and occasionally Silica Blast if temps are high. Well water measuring about 300 tds. I always need to ph down to 5.7-6.0. I flush for 1 - 2 weeks with plain unadjusted tapwater. I bloom every strain for at least 9 weeks. More for those that need it.
I would like to yield more than 1/2 - 3/4 grams per watt. Any ideas?
I started using PBP Bloom Soil at 1tblsp per gallon - decent yield.
Upped it to 2tbslp per gallon - better yield.
Started adding 1/2 strength Hydrofarm Hydroponic Bloom Fertilizer (10-30-15) - almost doubled my yield. Upped that to full strenth - no real increase in yield, complaints of chemmy taste, burned if the temps got too warm - backed down to 1/2 strength.
Started adding 1tblsp per gallon feed-grade molasses - better tastes / smells.
Currently growing in 50/50 coco fiber / perlite. I add 1 tblsp per gallon Fox Farm Fruit and Flower dry formulae to the mix to give it a more organic feel and for added bacteria and fungi. Also using Plant Success at transplant.
Girls are in 5 gallon buckets with tomato cages. Averaging 4 feet tall. Yields are between 1 to 2 ounces a plant depending on strain. Some yield more than others. I feed at every watering and I add Hydroguard at 15ml per gallon, Sensizyme at 15ml per gallon and occasionally Silica Blast if temps are high. Well water measuring about 300 tds. I always need to ph down to 5.7-6.0. I flush for 1 - 2 weeks with plain unadjusted tapwater. I bloom every strain for at least 9 weeks. More for those that need it.
I would like to yield more than 1/2 - 3/4 grams per watt. Any ideas?
meduser180056
Active member
I think bigger girls DO need more food in most cases.
I've gone up 20 ml/gal of PBPB soil with no problems. I also use PK 13/14 during bloom at 1/4 strength a couple of times.
I do think the 15pbpb 5 calmag recipe is the minimum needed for healthy growth, but it is kinda weak.
I don't think your gonna up your yield with nutes at this point. It seems like you got that down. Probably some other aspect of the grow that needs to be finetuned.
Although if you listen to the Advanced guys they'll tell ya you need to switch to AN. LOL
I've gone up 20 ml/gal of PBPB soil with no problems. I also use PK 13/14 during bloom at 1/4 strength a couple of times.
I do think the 15pbpb 5 calmag recipe is the minimum needed for healthy growth, but it is kinda weak.
I don't think your gonna up your yield with nutes at this point. It seems like you got that down. Probably some other aspect of the grow that needs to be finetuned.
Although if you listen to the Advanced guys they'll tell ya you need to switch to AN. LOL
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meduser180056
Active member
I think the plants adapt to how we feed them a lot of times. Some people keep their plants on a light diet and others feed theirs alot and the plants seem to get used to it either way in most cases as long as it's not too extreme.
So if you have a clone and start it with a strong dose of ferts and it handles it then I think it starts to expect that strong dose as it's lifespan goes on. Same goes for if you started the clone on a light diet.
Also I've heard the mothers feeding diet can effect how the clone likes to eat.
Mandela Mikes strains are all supposedy light feeders cuz he breeds them that way or something like that.
So if you have a clone and start it with a strong dose of ferts and it handles it then I think it starts to expect that strong dose as it's lifespan goes on. Same goes for if you started the clone on a light diet.
Also I've heard the mothers feeding diet can effect how the clone likes to eat.
Mandela Mikes strains are all supposedy light feeders cuz he breeds them that way or something like that.
B
Brain
In a recirc coco drip how would one measure nute level in the res? Will it show on the ec/ppm meter?
yes that is your nute level or ppm ( parts per million)or EC (electrical conductivity) on the meter. ec and ppm are on different scales but ppm is simple(well for me ,that is what i learned) but they are the same thing. measure of the stuff(solids or nutes) in the water in laimans terms. that is why with a RO filter the ppm is near zero cause it is filtered clean. make sence? i hope soBrain said:
SIR
PBP is the Bomb!!!
PBP is the Bomb!!!
Hi All !! This is by far the BEST ferts...... Tried all the popular ferts, but
PBP was a sample tri pak given to me....PBPG...Liquid Karma...PBPB for soil in 8oz bottles started with 1/8 tsp...then 1/4....then 1/2....now 1tsp in a gal, that is all a plant needs, anymore would be overkill.....the EC always comes to 1.2~1.4 The new Hugo cubes are like a 1gal container...
Here's a simple 6 step formula for veg:::
1 gal RO water Ph 5.8 for cubes(6"x6"x6" Hugo) & 6.5 for soil
3-Smigens of Carbo Load powder (smigen=.3 gram/is a small measure spoon)mix well first, make sure water temp is between 68~72 degrees
2.5 tsp Pot'O Gold
3 tsp Sensizym
1 tsp Cal Mag +
1 tsp PBPG
1 tsp Liquid Karma
See this ....
For Bloom::
Use the same as above for veg + 1tsp PBPB for cubes etc, & PBPB/Soil for soil
and 1 tsp Sweet~berry or citrus your choice.... during Transition period, then
when flowering starts drop the 1 tsp of PBPG & use 1 tsp PBPB~ PBPB/Soil
For last 2 weeks drop 1 tsp PBPB & use only 1 tsp PBPB/Soil instead for a boost of phos/Potash at the end of bloom & also you can use Overdrive for cubes & Top Maxx for soil for .....LARGE FLOWERS! See:
This works pretty well.....Peace!!!
PBP is the Bomb!!!
Hi All !! This is by far the BEST ferts...... Tried all the popular ferts, but PBP was a sample tri pak given to me....PBPG...Liquid Karma...PBPB for soil in 8oz bottles started with 1/8 tsp...then 1/4....then 1/2....now 1tsp in a gal, that is all a plant needs, anymore would be overkill.....the EC always comes to 1.2~1.4 The new Hugo cubes are like a 1gal container...
Here's a simple 6 step formula for veg:::
1 gal RO water Ph 5.8 for cubes(6"x6"x6" Hugo) & 6.5 for soil
3-Smigens of Carbo Load powder (smigen=.3 gram/is a small measure spoon)mix well first, make sure water temp is between 68~72 degrees
2.5 tsp Pot'O Gold
3 tsp Sensizym
1 tsp Cal Mag +
1 tsp PBPG
1 tsp Liquid Karma
See this ....
For Bloom::
Use the same as above for veg + 1tsp PBPB for cubes etc, & PBPB/Soil for soil
and 1 tsp Sweet~berry or citrus your choice.... during Transition period, then
when flowering starts drop the 1 tsp of PBPG & use 1 tsp PBPB~ PBPB/Soil
For last 2 weeks drop 1 tsp PBPB & use only 1 tsp PBPB/Soil instead for a boost of phos/Potash at the end of bloom & also you can use Overdrive for cubes & Top Maxx for soil for .....LARGE FLOWERS! See:
This works pretty well.....Peace!!!
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Bloom Booster
Bloom Booster
I use PBP Grow/Bloom & CalMag+ in a Hempy bucket system and the plants always look 100% healthy. I also foliar spray weekly during flowering with blackstrap molasses.
Since they appear healthy, does that mean there is no need to add any other nutes? I use a high Phosphorous bloom booster during flowering, but have never grown without it so I don't know if it is truly giving me more yield.
Bloom Booster
I use PBP Grow/Bloom & CalMag+ in a Hempy bucket system and the plants always look 100% healthy. I also foliar spray weekly during flowering with blackstrap molasses.
Since they appear healthy, does that mean there is no need to add any other nutes? I use a high Phosphorous bloom booster during flowering, but have never grown without it so I don't know if it is truly giving me more yield.
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