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passive plant killer

H

Hossauce

Member
high life 45 said:
I having some similar issues but the ph was low. Check out my thread and tell me what ya think. I hope these girls pull through.
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Dang, low ph, huh? How low? I'm rooting for ya, hopefully they pull through !

I'm going to try to get some pictures up later tonight, because I just checked the black box, and once again it's ph'ing at 6.0, with a 1.2 EC. My control box is at 5.5 & 1.2. I'm now going to assume that it's my coco, as well as my poor preparation, and up my cycle a little bit to maybe 50-60 oz's and try to clean out my medium. Then time for my 3rd res change tomorrow :biggrin:

Good luck high life !
 
I

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
I suggest that we PPK growers (following D9 into Jacks @ 600 ppm or equivalent territory) fit in the middle of the (3) aforementioned examples. What Lucas wrote regarding flushing not being necessary if one feeds appropriately totally applies to us as well. Lucas' target was 1400 ppm. D9 gets close to that "in the tank" w/input @ 600 ppm. There ya go!
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Once, I pulled a plant and ran a tap water flush through a chiller through the media to try and get out excess salts, and color a plant up with some root zone shocking.

And I only did it once in a PPK... my initial tap EC was somewhere around 180, and after three days it was around 300. No discerned benefits. Other factors were involved, and I would try it again someday... but I concluded that the mechanics of they system do keep the media relatively residue free and the added step was, at the time, much more trouble than it was worth.
 
high life 45

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
Hey whats this

Hey whats this

This is a teaser for D9.

I am almost done with one of the flip boxes.

I will be finished tomorrow.

I took plenty of pictures and will have a detailed step by step.

I just wanted to share this picture.

 
M

mcfly420

Active member
I got a question about clones and dont feel like waiting for a week :) ... so ive been putting them directly into the beer cups, and they take about 1-1.5wks to show roots - I occasionally pull em to see how dense they develop - and another few days-week to start growing. Then they get flowered a few days later...and I have no scale:biggrin:

? is.....I tend to uhh stretch my moms in order to get 1-1.5¨ of stem to bury. I pretty much always cut the clones from above a node, not wantin to sacrifice a future plantlet. Would I get faster growth by not doing this? I know most people say to bury a node but the root density looks great from straight stem, just wish it happened a few days quicker... anways

that flip makes my head :ying:
 
I

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
1-1.5wks to show roots - I occasionally pull em to see how dense they develop
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Pulling them is reported to be a big no-no, especially if they are just past nubbin' stage, and you break off your baby root tips... Leaving them alone is reported to be the most successful approach when using a media for rooting.

Other reports suggest that 7-10 days is not an unreasonable amount of time for roots to show, and others suggest that rooting time is often strain dependent.

I've observed most early rooting happening at a branch node, and maybe it's shitty technique, but when a 1/4 of stem is left on the node, I often observe earliest strong rooting from this part of the plant. I do not know why.

Krunch has a thread that's in his sig about the best rooting hormone he's ever used, and this PGR reportedly decreases rooting times significantly. Other people say using it kills Angles and makes puppies cry. You decide if it's right for you.

I have observed that plants tend to 'stall' for a shorter period of time when they root faster, but still see a few days from roots showing to definitive new growth on most strains. So while 7-10 days may be a reasonable amount of time for rooting, I stand beside your effort in making it faster, in hopes of reducing the stall time.

To summarize:

1. If your root density is good, then maybe you don't have to worry about the node... but when I see root growth, it is earliest and strongest immediately around the node. (A solution is to try and grow an extra mom, or push your moms a week longer between the cuts to get an extra node to bury.)

2. PGRs might help. But they might also take the green out of rainbows, and cause unicorns to drop their horns.
 
H

Hossauce

Member
:laughing: Lol to those that said the ppk is easy ! All jokes aside, I'm sure I'd be having more problems without the ppk, and once it's dialed in I'm going to be golden, so I don't mind the early hardships :biggrin:

Alrighty...I did my res change #3 yesterday, and noticed another interesting observation, one which I'm really, really hoping is the culprit to my ph problems, because my res's are STILL high. Mind you, not quite as high. They're sitting at 6.1, which compared to a 6.4 is nice, but I know they'd be happier in the 5.6-5.8 range. My revelation...My volume tank is one of those big 55 Gallon blue drums, I believe my brother said he got it from a chinese restaurant, they use it for soy sauce I believe. Anyways, even though it is pretty thick, it did allow for a fair amount of light penetration. So there's been a solid 10-30 gallons sitting in there at any given time, and when I ph'd it, it was at 5.6...a fair amount higher than when I mix. I then did a little research, and found that light penetration actually will raise ph over a period of time. Now how long that period of time is, I'm unsure, but let's hope it's within a couple days, because if this is not the root of my problem, then wow, I'm truly stumped. I wrapped it in Panda, and it's nice and dark in there now.

As "unhappy" as I say they truly are, it's really just my big OG, the one that's been vegging about 5 weeks now, that is showing the most stress. Hmm...maybe it wants more food? It is quite massive, the stem is literally almost the size of both my thumbs together. Does anyone have experience growing OG in their ppk? The other younger OG's look better, and all of the blue dreams look quite healthy, despite a couple twisted/contorted leaves, which I'm attributing to a still slightly high ph.
 
I

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
Hmm...maybe it wants more food?
Click to expand...

...mechanically speaking, not likely....

How long has it been in the PPK? Earlier transplants=less shock.

PPKs have a specific moisture profile that will be suited well by matching roots. An old transplant with established root mass will not have developed an optimized root profile.

5.6-5.8 range.
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Which reservoirs?

Regardless, I'd let the system run for a while... let the plants adapt, and then, if things don't turn around start to get worried.

RO+Jacks+media wick+pulse=I can't think of what may be going on.

Find a secure location to upload pics... maybe its something silly and not PPK related.

...Like environmental conditions, or toxic materials used in the build or room.

...Or infested coco.

...Or inaccurate/maladjusted meters.

...Or inherently sick plants.

Hard to say without getting a peak.
 
M

mcfly420

Active member
¨occasionally pull em¨ somehow = pour turface slowly out of cups until unwanted clone falls out.
biggrin.gif
I always liked the stem for consistentency, roots were able to form- so it was just how many + how fast- I thought. But maybe the node will send out a ~few roots earlier which will end up acting more like taproots.

Theres nothing better than clear cups/no transplanting imo. Im still using that cheap powder too- a few years + its only half gone. After setting them in the hole, I dump 3oz´s of water in to secure it - the powder doesnt wash off and Id rather not even risk crushing the stem. No shortage of cuttings either, its just nice to toss the ones that are retarded. Maybe I just chop off too much foliage, since they get covered with the same 16oz cups.

¨I've observed most early rooting happening at a branch node, and maybe it's shitty technique, but when a 1/4 of stem is left on the node¨
Does this mean cut right below the node, and leave a bit of the branch (but cut off the petiole/leaf stalk)

Where would I get my green without rainbows? I´d wear that star trek visor to have clones that root/grow the next day. Its the only part of the cycle that feels like nothing is happening
Thanks btw I´ll let you know if it helps the stall
 
gregor_mendel

gregor_mendel

Active member
A while back I promised to post some pics of my Hydro Halos when they arrived.

I am still trying to figure how to post pics, as I've never posted a pic on one of these forums in eleven years.

In the meantime, I offer my review.

I purchased the 6" rings.
They have 42 holes - 14 sets of 3.
The hole diameter averages .035"
I drilled them out to .0785" (5/64") to achieve the same cross-sectional area as four holes of 1/4" diameter.

They easily hook up to 1/2 hose - just press on.
They work well, and my PPKs have been running well for a week, but...

The quality of the injection is very bad.
They leak at a few places in the seam, especially near the barb.

I do not recommend these.
Before I drilled the holes, I ran open 1/2 hose to each bucket for a day, which worked OK.
A single tee or 3 tees would have been much cheaper, and not required any drilling.
They work, but are a more costly and more time consuming to use than a tee to two more tees arrangement.


I must say I am really enjoying this system.
For the previously mentioned eleven years, about 90% of my attempts with absorbent media have had some kind of over watering issue. I can confidently say that is over.


Thanks to D9 and all contributors.
 
I

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
¨I've observed most early rooting happening at a branch node, and maybe it's shitty technique, but when a 1/4 of stem is left on the node¨
Does this mean cut right below the node, and leave a bit of the branch (but cut off the petiole/leaf stalk)
Click to expand...
Yeah... that's what it means. When I snip a little branch, but don't do it flush to the clone, (but do remove the leaf stalk) I consistently observe roots coming off the secondary branch and the immediate area first. It could be strain dependent.
 
petemoss

petemoss

Active member
I'm getting ready to complete my conversion to pulse feeding on my perpetual HDSOG (high density sea of green). All containers have been retro-fitted with nylon/polyester rope, which is working well. The pot in the pics below is a smaller 3.5" container that has a 1/2" vinyl hose plumber's gooped to the bottom. The hose is filled with media (coco, perlite and rice hulls) with some polyester batting stuck in the end. Just wanted to see if a media wick performs better than a rope. I found a cheap source for the John Guest drip tees and made a drip ring that is easy to disconnect when I want to re-arrange the plants. As soon as I finish this bag of coco, I'll start filling the pots with turface and rice hulls. That should take a couple of months, since I'm chopping four plants (and adding four clones) every two weeks.

I'm very happy with the way my plants look with just the wicks draining standing water from the pots. Some of the sativas (super lemon haze and vanilla kush) are showing signs of nitrogen excess, namely leaf clawing and discoloration, so I've cut back on the nitrogen by using less calcium nitrate. Instead of a ratio of 1/0.67 Jack's/calcinit, my nute mix is closer to 1/0.34. D9 used this ratio successfully when he miscalculated the amount of calcinit to add, so I'm confident that plants will tolerate a wide range of ratios.

 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
"living life a bowl at a time"

"living life a bowl at a time"

hello, people! good morning all you ppk'ers! it's a wonderful day in the neighborhood to grow a little painkiller!

i'm sorry i haven't been more responsive to the thread but i have been working from sun-up to midnight everyday.

decisions have been made. goals have been set. time frames have been established.

i will try to get back later to see what i have missed.

you are a great bunch of folks! thank you all so much!

later on
 
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