passive plant killer

[delta9nxs]

What is the ppm of the container/res before you pump in 600 ppm?

I would recommend using that to calculate the ppm of your flush. It is never a good thing to change the EC on a plant rapidly. The EC inside could be much higher than 600. In which case you'd be better off flushing with something closer to the measured number.

If it was much lower you could water stress the plant, by pulling water out of it.

These two extremes are just part of a continuum of plant stress, so if you are close enough, it shouldn't matter much. Sometimes when I measure things I am shocked at the results. Most of the time I can predict the measurements, but sometimes I'm way way off. This is when I learn the most.

I've had small plants that are in a res with a wick that can get up to an EC of 5 and show no stress. I would never take that plant and flush it to 600 ppm. I don't know if it can harm a plant to remove salts from them, but I'd bet it is at least a little bad for them.


I have noticed that root pruning is like like topping. No tap root or other big roots means a root bush.

typically, around 400-450 ppm before the switch to jack's. as i mentioned this is timed to coincide with a move to the 1k so i get an immediate increase in metabolism. the clones look good and grow fast.

in the Handbook of Plant and Crop Stress there are at least six chapters on the effects of salts on plants.

yes, you can force the plant to grow a preponderance of "air" type roots by limiting the "water" roots.

 

[delta9nxs]

Two days ago, I noticed two of the crew were boys. They got the axe/clones pulled. I had, on hand, another girl, a couple weeks behind and put her in. but I didnt provide enough coco in my initial dry coco measurement. after rinsing and charging it, it only filled the 3.5 up to the 3" mark, below the rim. 2inches below the others. GAP=3.25". I let it go that way and the coco visable in the air-pruning holes is dark (wet), not like the others whos top is damp but little crusty, just like the airpruning holes. They all look healthy as hell, the AK, only in there a day, has responded very well already. Some how I'm going to have to veg them longer, that is to say taller because stretch seems to be less.

If leaves are feeling a little dry, would that leade me to believe the need more humidity? Current RH=55% Still fighting with that concept.

hey, snook, in a 3.5 that gives you 8" of medium, which is close to the capillary rise potential of coco. when i load and water one in it settles at around 1" below the rim. why don't you just dump some more coco on top?

my humidity is right at 50-55% too and i'm running a 4" air gap with a pulse of 12 oz's every 2 hours. the medium looks like it's just right to me. i can feel moisture at the top. i can't get a drip off but it looks and feels wet. plants look great.

i consider 60% humidity to be a maximum. it's ok in veg but you definitely don't want it that high in late flower because of bud rot.

 

[delta9nxs]

just a quick report on some of the other strains i'm trying.

the "og nukush" and the "rene x nuken" are showing female in veg. the purple nukush might show female in veg too.

this is a trait i look for. my swt#4 shows strongly all the time, even clones.

precocious plants are usually good yielders.

the "nuken" and the "kish x juicy fruit" could be male.

i have clones rooting of the g13, og nukush, rene x nuken, purple nukush, and kish x juicy fruit.

the "jas bud" is not happening. i have tried to pop 7 beans, one at a time, and i have nothing. no germination and treated exactly like the rest. i took the remaining 3 beans and wet them yesterday.

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

no germination and treated exactly like the rest. i took the remaining 3 beans and wet them yesterday.

Scuff the seam of the shell with a bit of sanding paper?

 

[Snook]

There are similar manifolds available in steel (intended for air pumps) with individual valves...

I'm stuck on plastic, rust/corrosion cant be good. It is 'in' the rez.

I've started drilling it out too, along with the tire valves. 5/16" from rez to rez (well almost).

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

steel

Think it might be stainless, or aluminum, or lead, or plutonium.

Yeah... stay away...

 

[Snook]

hey, snook, in a 3.5 that gives you 8" of medium, which is close to the capillary rise potential of coco. when i load and water one in it settles at around 1" below the rim. why don't you just dump some more coco on top?

my humidity is right at 50-55% too and i'm running a 4" air gap with a pulse of 12 oz's every 2 hours. the medium looks like it's just right to me. i can feel moisture at the top. i can't get a drip off but it looks and feels wet. plants look great.

i consider 60% humidity to be a maximum. it's ok in veg but you definitely don't want it that high in late flower because of bud rot.

I was feeling happy about the color at 3" down but I guess that gives away root space. but lemme say that I am proceeding slowly from what you all might describe as bushes, not trees. I still have a 6'9" ceiling that I'd rather not bump into. Thanks for all the input. It seems like you're feeling better thes days, that's good. And everyone else.

 

[Snook]

Think it might be stainless, or aluminum, or lead, or plutonium.

Yeah... stay away...

I have steel ones, chromed. Don't know what I was thinking. More stuff jus lying around that I cant throw away.

 

[jjfoo]

training

training

I'm not sure if this is exactly on topic of PPK, I don't want to be rude and change the subject. There are a lot of interesting people here that I'd like to hear from...

If so, let me know if this is something that belongs in a new thread.

here are some interesting articles, I've been reading about training my plants.

http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/articles.htm


It seems like many training techniques don't scale too well. I mean it is a lot of work to defoliate, prune, tie, bend, etc...

I'm cool with root pruning at transplant but I'm still wondering how much I should be training my plants

I guess I'm looking for high bang/buck ratios. Like root pruning is not hard and only happens once (for me), so I can do it, I am getting better root balls now. LST (low stress training) or bending works great to get a flat canopy but is very tedious.

I imagine it very difficult to scale something like LST.

 

[Snook]

Of course, it's not a simple this volume per this period, as temp and RH will be a factor in evaporation and transpiration... In some parts of the world, seasons are changing, and keeping an eye on things may be in order... The occasional check of the numbers in the sub-reservoir, etc.

That said, I won't do it. I won't change my timer, and I won't check my reservoirs.

'Cause it seems like toooo much work.

Thanks for the input IF. I'm finding out that with 750ishPPMs of the Jacks+CN, worring about Ph, is a thing of the past. I havent used a Ph meter in 4-5 months now. More junk laying around. I check the control rez for water height only. The pulse system is now 10oz every 2 hours. I 'will' keep upping that until I get some water on the floor and back off. On the down side, I keep very poor logs these days because there are no routine readings.

 

[delta9nxs]

Scuff the seam of the shell with a bit of sanding paper?

i've tried that. the last 3 beans were wet down 2 days ago and they aren't doing shit either. i guess it's just a bad batch.

 

[delta9nxs]

I'm not sure if this is exactly on topic of PPK, I don't want to be rude and change the subject. There are a lot of interesting people here that I'd like to hear from...

If so, let me know if this is something that belongs in a new thread.

here are some interesting articles, I've been reading about training my plants.

http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/articles.htm


It seems like many training techniques don't scale too well. I mean it is a lot of work to defoliate, prune, tie, bend, etc...

I'm cool with root pruning at transplant but I'm still wondering how much I should be training my plants

I guess I'm looking for high bang/buck ratios. Like root pruning is not hard and only happens once (for me), so I can do it, I am getting better root balls now. LST (low stress training) or bending works great to get a flat canopy but is very tedious.

I imagine it very difficult to scale something like LST.

hey, JJ! nice find! that site is a goldmine.

scalability is one of the reasons i am now defoliating once at the end of stretch. 30 min once a week.

i'm not doing any root pruning. i just pull off the ones that make it down to the res. i'm playing around with a single topping of the meristem about 3 nodes down just before going into flower. i haven't whacked one of these yet but it seems to be keeping the overall plant shorter and in better range of the lights. maybe better axial growth through stretch which could translate into more yield. we'll see.

 

[delta9nxs]

to relieve the ennui. the veg area and it's denizens. i spotted these woolly buggers in the outback. outback behind my house. as i stalked them in their natural habitat i was fully cognizant of the almost palpable sense of danger i was experiencing. i was scared too.

i was fully on guard, vigilant, and i was ready and watching also.

my finger tightened on the trigger of my weapon (weedeater pro) as i made my "final" approach.

i would take them at high speed, not giving them time to activate their defense mechanism which consist of a mind numbing vapor robbing you of your ability to function in a hostile mode.

as you can see from the photos this didn't work out so well for me. they're fine and i'm all fucked up, laughing my ass off.

next time!

1. g13 in ppk
2. from left, swt in ppk, swt cutting, purple nukush seedling, swt in ppk.
3. swt in ppk, nuken, swt in ppk.
4. g13 in ppk
5. swt in ppk, og nukush seedling confirmed female in veg, swt cutting, kish x juicy fruit, swt in ppk.
6. g13 as seen from light.
7. centerfold is g13, barely visible on table to left is rene x nuken, also confirmed female in veg.

 

[zeke99]

edited for ease of use and several updates 07/25/11

PPK Index:

three ways to run ppk and more on the first method here
demonstration of a controlled water table
Controlled water table at work and here (water level in reservoirs)
wicks
air gap theory
powered plant killer theory and summary and here
another detailed explanation of the updated PPK theory in action in plain language
PPK theory lack of salt buildup
Introducing Hydraulic Redistribution
another little bit of info on hydraulic redistribution

update 2011 PPK module
bottom feed volume tank how-to and Delta9's 1k veg area
pulse manifold detailed how-to
tire valve size
tire valve installation
updated latex tubing connection between the tire valve and the drip line

introduction to light measurement
1500 umols
quantum meters

wick cloner detailed how-to and here

delta9 vs fungus gnats in coco
turface & rice hull mix preparation, list of several two part substrate mixes

hash making detailed how-to


related products:

Turface MVP
Black Vinyl Tubing - by the Roll
US Plastics 3.5 gallon bucket
Keeney Mfg. Co. 1-1/2" x 6" Sink Tailpiece
Wick cloner containers and here
Slime 4 way valve tool

 

[cyat]

nice pics d9. thanks for the compilation zeke. Its starting to come together.

 

[Snook]

PPK index:

latest PPK module volume tank / D9 veg setup tire valve installation wick cuttings / D9 veg & flower stats and pics light meters ppk substrate porosity three ways to run ppk drill bit sizes, scalability the "controlled water table" theory at work / air gap size coco / tailpiece / air gap size pulse manifold how to tire valve size hash making pics

some will require scrolling down in order to locate the subject title
some are multi-subject
some are single posts

Good index Zeke. Thank you. Hey, are you from Melbourne?

 

[Snook]

hey, JJ! nice find! that site is a goldmine.

scalability is one of the reasons i am now defoliating once at the end of stretch. 30 min once a week.

i'm not doing any root pruning. i just pull off the ones that make it down to the res. i'm playing around with a single topping of the meristem about 3 nodes down just before going into flower. i haven't whacked one of these yet but it seems to be keeping the overall plant shorter and in better range of the lights. maybe better axial growth through stretch which could translate into more yield<!!. we'll see.

More yield! HA! D9, what's your ultimate target? You've blown away your starting figures (5+ OZ) and have gotten to, unless I missed something, 22 OZ. /plant/week. That is sick, for indoors.
Have you ever tried two wicks? One empty one, that contains a short cloth wick, would assure any pulse nutrient that reaches the bottom of the pot, drips directly to the bottom of the rez, while still maintaining the PWT at the controlled height, or am I smokin' too much?

 

[zeke99]

Good index Zeke. Thank you. Hey, are you from Melbourne?

no, U.S.

 

[jjfoo]

Have you ever tried two wicks? One empty one, that contains a short cloth wick, would assure any pulse nutrient that reaches the bottom of the pot, drips directly to the bottom of the rez, while still maintaining the PWT at the controlled height, or am I smokin' too much?

this would be redundant, just use a fatter wick, if you want it to drain faster, but this system doesn't require high speed water movement


I don't think there would be a significant diff except for it may drain faster.

If the short wick was short enough, it may actually just stop draining and the reset of the water would go down the long wick.

It seems like extra work with no benefit.

 

[Snook]

no, U.S.

HAHA!!! I ment Florida! Thanks anyway, I just met a Zeke (in florida) that mentioned, in passing, someone growing. You never know, it's a small world.