What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Parts Per Million for Dummies (US) using TSP/Gallon Teaspoon

Ca++

Well-known member
I'm not having Canna issues, no.
I don't use the bio one though, so can't comment on that. I do know my local keep it in the fridge, provided by Canna. The storage instructions are no extreme temperatures. The fridge is possibly not very cold, but rather, to stop it getting very hot. This may mean the bottle has a 'use by' date worth looking for.

I picked up some Plagron terra and it was basically Canna Terra. The numbers were so close, that I would buy either. These are not the bio lines though. However I would ditch both for Ionic. Neither has calcium or magnesium. The Ionic does.

If you have a Plagron supply closer to home, then see if they have a Bio line, and how it looks beside the Canna.
 

I Care

Well-known member
Okay that’s good news. I just looked at ionic they’ve got it where I was getting my clonex. Little closer than bio canna. I have an infatuation with the bioflores a their PK 13/14 based on results of my former mentor, me too. Not for the yield, just for quality. I’ve got to get that quality back.

I met someone when I was traveling in Italy, they were working a CBD/grow shop. I told him I used to grow. He said he wants to grow organic hydro.. I started discussing what that would require.. Apparently he was just testing me for saying I used to grow. We ended up ordering pizza there and having a joint of his biocanna homegrown out front on the curb in Napoli. Was the same amazing flavor I remembered from my own homegrown. That guy was a really good dude, had spent some time on holland. He told me I was brave for traveling into Italy with cannabis and driving around Italy with cannabis for weeks. All I could do was shrug my shoulders and smile. Explained that I brought cannabis just by throwing loose nugs in with my textiles in my carry on. That overhead bin was pretty podey after a transatlantic flight. Less brains than brawn.

Thanks for the good news that things seem not to have changed. I’m happy that it’s still chosen nutrient line. You know when you fire up some canna grown vs whatever else. I got some stuff lately that was listed as no till, and after a taste test, I though that they have got to use biocanna or a really good substitute in that no till set up, just based on how clean and flavorful it was.
 

I Care

Well-known member
And that’s interesting your local is the keeping it in the fridge. The reason I’m going to travel so far is because I found a shop that is a preferred biocanna retailer. Based on the biocanna website, I emailed em and they said they keep a fresh stock of it. There’s a closer shop, but fresh is what I’m after.

Addressing calcium and magnesium will be easy enough for me to address with fox farms bush doc cal mag that I can get at different local shops. I considered running the FF but I’m going to stick with grow big and jacks tomato for veg and do canna for fruit, indoor.

If I find an 8x4 flood table, I want to persue the same method outdoors. Flood table on top of an old bed frame, with large fabric pots, in a greenhouse; really where I want to be at. Indoor soil, hydro and soil greenhouse, grow big corn in the ground too, just to have some big bags again. For the plain fun of the big bags of good seeded buds to pass around.
 

I Care

Well-known member
I’m going to work on the first page right now. Highlight some quotes and clear some things up. Also paraphrasing my screen sized posts to lead into the better information.
 

I Care

Well-known member
I’m finally getting back to this. With how long it takes for 10 gallon pots to go dry with the original mainline technique. I don’t know where the mainline technique became some training technique. Seems to be in the last decade, what is this called nowadays?


image.jpg





Did some metering


This is the tap. IMG_1724.jpeg IMG_1725.jpeg IMG_1726.jpeg IMG_1727.jpeg




This is the food and water IMG_1729.jpeg IMG_1730.jpeg IMG_1731.jpeg IMG_1732.jpeg


This seems like it’s all good comin out now
I’m limited on photography in one post
PPM/TDS = 404/0.4%
US/cm = 820

IMG_1735.jpeg





I could not apply my PPM calculation strategy to this one. Used some semi organic stock solution I needed to use up. Between that and what I put in as flower food… Grow Big, Part 3 Micro, CalMag, Jacks Tomato, BioThrive Bloom, Molasses
 

I Care

Well-known member
Wanna let you guys know I finally have the soil running water off the same way it goes in now. Not yet on the night rig with the 40L pots. It’s still taking up the food I put in it. I’m adding 300-400 on the smaller plants 700-1000 on the established plants and I just did a full 1200 on flower day 33.
 

I Care

Well-known member
1716920400316.png


Dunked it, pH wouldn’t read. Removed cap and button cover to dry it out.
Working again, then I tapped it on the edge of the glass I keep the meter and the droppers in.

Badoink!

Broke it fixed it broke it again.

I counted the lemon drops it takes to bring it down below neutral. A small amount of alaska morbloom 0-10-10 will also lower ph at about the same rate as lemon drops. I also understand what kind of rate the old bloom food is doing so I can stop worrying for the PH on the night rig.

Soil seems to behaving itself, so I won’t get too constipated about losing my pH pen if everything that’s thirsty is looking good.

@Ca++ this pen changes lives, thank you, may I have another. Will repair this one and get a back up. Something else generic you know of that is good reproduction of functional older agritech?
 

Ca++

Well-known member
The price of these things, you can have as many as you need. The sellers with spare probes might be worth bookmarking though. It was just this last year, I also bust one on a containers edge.

I fancy one for clean, and one for dirty. I don't want to transfer any dirty water, to my clean water equipment. I'm in the middle of dedicating buckets and such.
For hygiene reasons, I want to focus my efforts on the propagation area. Everything after that has a limited life expectancy, until it's gone. Soil, plants, drainage, it's all outgoing. If I get a parasitic problem during them months, it's outgoing. I don't want some fungus gnat infecting my flower area with a virus, and me to bring it to the propagation area on shared equipment.
I just got 8 pairs of scissors together, to take the cuts off my 8 mum's. I intend to colour co-ordinate them. As I use coloured cable ties to ID my plants anyway. So ties around the scissors is natural progression.

Get 10 meters. You just can't be too careful :)
 

I Care

Well-known member
Wow, I started introducing waterings that are 1200-1300 ppm and the results one seeing in growth is exceptional. The TDS meter creates exacting standards that actually require absolutely zero math. The only downside if I have scrapped the notebook and no longer keep track of what the exact contents of each feeding is.

I will confidently say that I was adding, per fresh gallon
1-2ml of bushdoctor cal mag
.5-1.5ml of part 3 micros
2-4ml Neptune kelp liquid or 2ml morbloom
which would bring the PPM up to around 200
Then I add a splash of watered down grow big
I add 4or so ML dropper fulls of bio bloom
Some molasses in there too
I use a small fraction of a teaspoon of jacks tomato to make up the rest if I didn’t splash enough grow big

Shake vigorously between each nutrient addition
Highest gallon I’ve given was teetering into the low 1300s
But I prep and pour and then make a new batch without having exactly a perfect consistency

Then I was recycling water and raising ppm level up again with jack’s tomato until I basically was tired of trying to raise run off any further.

The recycled water is cut back down to 400-500 ppm and used outdoors on lettuce hill, and wild berry bushes after each watering. These things also look good.


The change is truly phenomenal after each watering and it’s like the flower growth really bulks up most when the pots are soaked and slows as the pots are not soaked. Where I would usually think to let them dry out some more, pretty sure I’m getting better looking results by flooding them with food and water instead of waiting the extra day(s) for that dry to the touch feeling on top and at pot’s drainage holes.

Wow, again, the bud is really getting interesting. I look at the flowering plants after lights on and again some time before lights off. I would say that it improves every hour whether they’re light hours or dark hours.


I didn’t even thing the stuff could grow this fast!! The meter targeting high application rates just makes growing that much more enjoyable. Seeing improvement every time I check in things is just thrilling. Having a ton of fun so far and I’m kind of able to just auto pilot the veg area right now.
 

I Care

Well-known member
So the most recent video I found when I was listening to stuff about LED on YouTube. It was Dr Bugbee talking about Phosphorous. He suggested that above 30ppm of phosphorous could be wasteful.

It got me thinking that I am able to mix a feed based on that principle.

2ML of Morbloom 0-10-10 brings up ppm by roughly 90ppm in a gallon. 90 is perfect so I’ll just use that.

Apply .43 and .8 and you figure roughly 1/3 P and 2/3 K
Thirds make this perfect.

It’s imperfect.
I’ve assembled a feed based on testing toward 30ppm P using Morbloom
1ml cal mag 1-0-0, 1ml micro/nit 5-0-1, 4ml kelp 0-0-1, 6ml bloom/S/Mg 2-4-4. Just thought wise the Morbloom 0-10-10 is a waste and I would have had the 30ppm without it, so im boosting with 60ppm double.

So now just the info is here to put this together.

6ml of 2-4-4 is 1.2tsp/gal

Nitrogen
2 x 1.2 = 2.4 x 12.9(f) = 30.96ppm/N

Phosphorous
4 x 1.2 x = 4.8 x 12.9(f) = 61.92
61.92 x 0.43 = 26.62ppm/P

Potassium (K)
4 x 1.2 x 12.9 = 61.92 x 0.8 = 49.53ppm/K

Brain is fried from applying and posting equation three times high all using the same handheld to do the calc.

Anyway the water came out 480 with everything together.
-52 from the ground it’s a 428ppm feed. I could manipulate those numbers just to an even 420 to make me happy. Going to use this formula as a side watering between floods.

I could drop the morbloom and sub lemon drops.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
I’m finally getting back to this. With how long it takes for 10 gallon pots to go dry with the original mainline technique. I don’t know where the mainline technique became some training technique. Seems to be in the last decade, what is this called nowadays?


View attachment 19006650




Did some metering


This is the tap. View attachment 19006644 View attachment 19006645 View attachment 19006646 View attachment 19006647




This is the food and water View attachment 19006651 View attachment 19006652 View attachment 19006653 View attachment 19006654


This seems like it’s all good comin out now
I’m limited on photography in one post
PPM/TDS = 404/0.4%
US/cm = 820

View attachment 19006658




I could not apply my PPM calculation strategy to this one. Used some semi organic stock solution I needed to use up. Between that and what I put in as flower food… Grow Big, Part 3 Micro, CalMag, Jacks Tomato, BioThrive Bloom, Molasses
How come you took all the side branches off? And why use a big pot for such a small plant? Just curious.
 

I Care

Well-known member
I have been in a rescue mission with plants suffering from a high pH condition starting 7.4. I have been using run off between plants that are in soil that runs off low pH. One bucket was completely fixed with the run off from the plants I have in my chosen potting mix.

I was keeping the solution in the 900s while doing this process.



This was after already doing some work and this is run off form the buckets.


IMG_0796.jpeg



This is run off after putting 7.1 through my pots.
IMG_0790.jpeg



This is after multiple times back and forth and flooding the buckets. Already said, one of them came out better than the rest.
IMG_0804.jpeg



This is basically where I kept it and where I would buffer it back up to with bottle nutes.
IMG_0802.jpeg



This is a 10 gallon pot of lower pH soil blend I put together. Flooded with good run off water. Bubba Kush

IMG_0797.jpeg


Then I think this was the run off from that bubba kush because there’s no pot on the run off pan.

IMG_0800.jpeg




Eventually had cleaner water in recycled run off
IMG_0793.jpeg




Things will get better..
IMG_0795.jpeg
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I have been in a rescue mission with plants suffering from a high pH condition starting 7.4. I have been using run off between plants that are in soil that runs off low pH. One bucket was completely fixed with the run off from the plants I have in my chosen potting mix.

I was keeping the solution in the 900s while doing this process.



This was after already doing some work and this is run off form the buckets.


View attachment 19050970


This is run off after putting 7.1 through my pots. View attachment 19050971


This is after multiple times back and forth and flooding the buckets. Already said, one of them came out better than the rest.
View attachment 19050982


This is basically where I kept it and where I would buffer it back up to with bottle nutes. View attachment 19050983


This is a 10 gallon pot of lower pH soil blend I put together. Flooded with good run off water. Bubba Kush

View attachment 19050985

Then I think this was the run off from that bubba kush because there’s no pot on the run off pan.

View attachment 19050989



Eventually had cleaner water in recycled run off
View attachment 19050988



Things will get better..
View attachment 19050986
You are doing a good job friend. Thanks for sharing your insights very helpful. Heres a tip, Putting a liquid pH meter in the soil can scratch the glass probe and damage it and cause mis--fires.

The glass probe in a pH meter is called a glass electrode. It's a type of ion-selective electrode (ISE) that's made of a doped glass membrane that's sensitive to hydrogen ions. The glass membrane is made from SiO, which is connected by oxygen atoms bridging two silicon atoms. The glass also contains varying amounts of other metal oxides, like NaO and CaO. Google
 

I Care

Well-known member
Been doing this with the pot flooded, but there is a chance I‘d be tempted to dig into the soil and scratch the glass. Thanks for the heads up so I will resist the temptation to do so.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top