The best pH meter....
If you can see the fluid in the tip, you may need to stand it in kcl. I have had you where you could see movement, and though it was fine, it should be full. This is the reference fluid, which isn't always sealed tight, but instead there is a permeable membrane.I got that meter n it broke on me after 2 uses n filled that see thru dome with clonex water when I was testing pH of airoponic cloner.. the guy on ebay refused to replace.. said I broke it.. put me off that meter after that.. maybe it genuinely was a one off bad faulty meter.. n a bad ebay seller..
Lol see the air bubble after I shake it and the purple clear clonex water still in from months ago lol?? Ph is way off now also.. might av to get some pointers n guidance off u brva qs I never understood a word of all that lol!?! Not really used these before with organics but wana fine tune everything in.. thanks for Yr time tryna explain to me tho dude lol if u can guide me thru how to fix this n where to get the bits I'd be very grateful ☮If you can see the fluid in the tip, you may need to stand it in kcl. I have had you where you could see movement, and though it was fine, it should be full. This is the reference fluid, which isn't always sealed tight, but instead there is a permeable membrane.
Our meters span a few designs, so we really need to look what we have. Some for lab use have fill points to ensure the kci is fresh. You literally empty and refill them. Ours tend to have a membrane, so we stand them in kcl, and I guess some sort of osmosis goes in. Others are just sealed, while rubbish one's have no reference at all. Though that will about do for soil growers.
tbh I have not looked long enough to understand it. Nor found the instructions provided to be particularly useful. KCL is calcium chloride, which is a powder. Some of these contain gel not saturated fluid. I think mine perhaps contained powder, so was meant to go in clean water to hydrate it. Others in a saturated kcl fluid, which I think we can make easy enough. I'm surprised my cheap yellow even had a serviceable fill. My pricey meter had zero instruction regarding this topic at all. I just put a new £50 tip on, leading to the £3 meter purchase, and use thereof. About now I will wake up, and find my 4.01 sachets, to make something obscene. Forget 250ml, I'm making porridge. If it's indeed kcl as I expect.
No I haven't used it since I noticed it filled up with the clonex water months ago when checking ph.. n straight after that it filled up and stopped workin and had wrong pH.. I just saw Yr thread and remembered I had same 7in1 meter and last round I really burnt a couple plants with too much N rich ferments so now I was hoping to use it to dial in those sensitive plants and find there preferred dose of food and keep it too that..Looking at that ingress, you would think it's physically broken. Like an actual hole in it. Are you saying it's still in use as an EC meter, and still hasn't washed out in months?
I suspect, if it's still in daily use, that this is gel filled. Gel that came as powder you had to hydrate. So this has soaked in, and is staying there now.
I think these are $10 so buying another might be easier than $5 on powder and rubbing your magic lamp for another wish. I myself have a bulk buy of powder, and a £50 tip to save, that is only slow not buggered. So I will try to save mine, but yours.. I'm afraid I would walk away.
I fridged my pH fluids, as the packet makes a lot. There are sites where people have tested shelf life of many brands, in terms of years. My commercial 4 is still a 4, and it's years old. My 7 drifted about 0.2 but these are 10yo bottles. Just kept in a box. I can't say how the sachets will hold up, but I'm finding out. I expect a year, at least. My 7 was expected to drift that much. It's all pretty standard stuff. I have the sachet mixes in glass though, not plastic. Just because..
Also I did let it soak for a bit in the water with the pH buffer stuff inside it like it said in instructions then tested it in tap water and worked fine.. then soon as tested the pH of water in airocloner with clonex in water it soaked into this dome and won't come out n since then its giving wrong pH readings.. I haven't even bothered to use for ppm or ec incase it was incorrect for those now too..Looking at that ingress, you would think it's physically broken. Like an actual hole in it. Are you saying it's still in use as an EC meter, and still hasn't washed out in months?
I suspect, if it's still in daily use, that this is gel filled. Gel that came as powder you had to hydrate. So this has soaked in, and is staying there now.
I think these are $10 so buying another might be easier than $5 on powder and rubbing your magic lamp for another wish. I myself have a bulk buy of powder, and a £50 tip to save, that is only slow not buggered. So I will try to save mine, but yours.. I'm afraid I would walk away.
I fridged my pH fluids, as the packet makes a lot. There are sites where people have tested shelf life of many brands, in terms of years. My commercial 4 is still a 4, and it's years old. My 7 drifted about 0.2 but these are 10yo bottles. Just kept in a box. I can't say how the sachets will hold up, but I'm finding out. I expect a year, at least. My 7 was expected to drift that much. It's all pretty standard stuff. I have the sachet mixes in glass though, not plastic. Just because..
Hello friend. You need to buffer your water more to keep your pH from dropping so low. If you are using a starting water with only 55ppm you will need to supplement the water with cal mag. The starting water needs to be at least 120 ppm or more to buffer the pH. If you add cal mag and let it set for a few hours or overnight the pH will rise closer to 7pH. Using water with a 7 pH repeatedly will raise the substrate pH.Revisiting PPM.
First in regards to pH fresh water run off readings as low as 4.
Fresh water in around neutral pH and 55ppm, runoff stuck around 370pp and between 4 and 5 ph.
I don’t know if this is some kind of soil acidifier or what.
My consideration is to put in a neutral water with a higher PPM in order to utilize harder water to bring up the PH.
Is this solid thinking?