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JDubsocal
Active member
Here is my update- flowering has begun since I took these plants out of my tent. It turns out I have more males than females so instead of a smaller harvest it's time to make seeds and cross strains. I have 2 key lime pie females:
And now for the males:
Double Platinum
White widow crossed with green crack-
And a group shot of some smaller males
closest is keylime pie with another double Platinum and "green widow"
Time to start pollen chuckin but also sure to tag which branch was hit with what so I dont lose track. As always fellow growers and even the lurkers too, thanks for looking and thanks for sharing! I will post another update in a few weeks. Stay warm!
And now for the males:
Double Platinum
White widow crossed with green crack-
And a group shot of some smaller males
Time to start pollen chuckin but also sure to tag which branch was hit with what so I dont lose track. As always fellow growers and even the lurkers too, thanks for looking and thanks for sharing! I will post another update in a few weeks. Stay warm!
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone I really hope you’re all well.
Been a while since I’ve posted but l’ve just had a tooth out, taken the day off and medicating, so please forgive me if I get things a bit muddled up and hit me up for a question if l haven’t explained things very well. I might even read back through the post in a day or two and add something l think it might need or that I’ve missed.
. This post’s going to be a long one so buckle up for a read or do what I do and just have a look at the pictures.
First of all l’d like to let you all know I’ve been lurking around and enjoyed the harvest photos and stories. For me things haven’t been too bad despite the day to day bull shitsville of life and I’m rather glad winter’s over.
I’ve learnt a lot this year, especially with hard to clone cultivars. The Blackdog’s definitely one and she’s totally unforgiving if you get it wrong but what I’ve found is she needs %100 humidity until she roots.
I take the clones and put them straight into a wettable sulphur bath and this helps with fungal infections down the track. The other trick I’ve found is to put the rooted clone into a mix of %95 composted cow manure and %5 the best compost I’ve ever come across and then put those into another %100 humidity dome with heating and under lights, I’ve got %100 success and clones with a well established root system that can go outside when they’re touching the top of the lid.
These little ones were put out yesterday and in five days, it’s the longest day, (i.e. intense, near summer light)
A well established root system will overcome sunlight intensity, as long as you’re not silly about it.
Here’s a photo of the Blackdog mother on the right and the selected (Blackdog x Ancient Og f5 [from Mr ‘n Mrs Schrews] ) bx1on the left.
I was so impressed with this particular plant it’s going to get a run this year. These plants are about 800mm tall, or two and two thirds feet.
Here’s a photo of the leaf morphology,
it’s a bit early for you guys to see it but it’s almost the same, so much so that it’s the same. The stem rub is so close to being the same, that it’s almost identical; at this stage of development. A ripe mango with a bit of gas on the back nose.
The selection process for this plant was rigorous and if you want to check it out l posted about it last year. The funny thing for me is that, this particular plant, had the strongest “sour” smell (or at least what I think “sour” would smell like) out of all the plants l tortured.
It’ll be very interesting to see how it turns out because although it would be remiss of me to say I’ve improved on the Blackdog, it will definitely improve the stretch and be a little bit later for harvest.
Here’s a whole shot of the green house and something else I’ve learnt this year, is that later plantings will catch earlier ones. It might be common knowledge but I’ve just worked it out; as early starts use up available root space in, 5litre pots (1.25 gallons) the others still have available root space to create mass.
Tom Hill dropped some knowledge on the fact that it’s not actually root stress that retards plant development, it’s exudate build up in the pot. So although the biggest plants are possibly root bound, they’re not slowing In growth due to feeding and flushing but they are slowing down due to stress, created by the inability to spread the root zone and power growth.
The feeding I’m giving here is a 4gramm calcium nitrate, 4 gram potassium sulphate and two teaspoons of trace minerals per gallon BUT IN A HALF DOSE FOR YOUNG PLANTS, because a full dose can burn them. ( Thanks Bradley Danks)
You’ll also notice that my plants are in square pots, this is because l realised years ago that plants transplant so much better and they fit together better, in spaces. It’s only in the last few years that orchardists and tree planters have realised that what I’ve been banging on about for years is true and the new recommended way to plant is in a square hole….for trees.
Plants in a square pot do not suffer transplant shock in the same way as plants in a round container do because the roots don’t circle. (As side note Shrews believes that if you face the plant, the same way it’s praying to the sun, it will transplant so much better and can reduce transplant shock.) Transplant shock can potentially set a plant back a week or more depending on root disturbance, in my opinion.( assuming it goes into perfect soil) It’s the reason I don’t tickle roots and prefer to use a “wet and dry” potential, so the plant has to find water without messing with it.
Anyway, I’ve watered the bigger plants again today with the nutrient mix because they are going out in five days, which is the first of December here but the first of June there. I’m aiming for %50 hydration in the pot so the plant won’t struggle but ithe roots still have to go looking for water as the two different mediums equalise out in terms of moisture.
So lm growing all clones this year and it’s interesting over the years to see how different people do what they do. For me, l like to alow a clone plant to decide what it’s main leader’s going to be, so that means waiting and watching.
You can force a main leader by close planting
because the clone stretches for light (and I’m only talking about clones, not seed plants) Or, if you need shape, you’re much better off super cropping, so you don’t force the plant into a mad Systemic Induced Response. It puts all it’s energy into healing the damage you’ve done to it; the one thing most grower forget is that the plant is ALIVE and if you cut its fingers (leafs) and hands (grow tips) it has got to repair the damage and re direct the auxins while it’s doing it. This is what transplant shock is and that’s created in the roots but you can also do it in the phylosphere, in the canopy, by taking too much leaf off, or pruning too hard.
Well I’ve had enough for writing for now I’ll get back to it and do a bit more soon and answer a question or two in a bit.
Cheers,
40
Been a while since I’ve posted but l’ve just had a tooth out, taken the day off and medicating, so please forgive me if I get things a bit muddled up and hit me up for a question if l haven’t explained things very well. I might even read back through the post in a day or two and add something l think it might need or that I’ve missed.
. This post’s going to be a long one so buckle up for a read or do what I do and just have a look at the pictures.
First of all l’d like to let you all know I’ve been lurking around and enjoyed the harvest photos and stories. For me things haven’t been too bad despite the day to day bull shitsville of life and I’m rather glad winter’s over.
I’ve learnt a lot this year, especially with hard to clone cultivars. The Blackdog’s definitely one and she’s totally unforgiving if you get it wrong but what I’ve found is she needs %100 humidity until she roots.
I take the clones and put them straight into a wettable sulphur bath and this helps with fungal infections down the track. The other trick I’ve found is to put the rooted clone into a mix of %95 composted cow manure and %5 the best compost I’ve ever come across and then put those into another %100 humidity dome with heating and under lights, I’ve got %100 success and clones with a well established root system that can go outside when they’re touching the top of the lid.
These little ones were put out yesterday and in five days, it’s the longest day, (i.e. intense, near summer light)
A well established root system will overcome sunlight intensity, as long as you’re not silly about it.
Here’s a photo of the Blackdog mother on the right and the selected (Blackdog x Ancient Og f5 [from Mr ‘n Mrs Schrews] ) bx1on the left.
Here’s a photo of the leaf morphology,
The selection process for this plant was rigorous and if you want to check it out l posted about it last year. The funny thing for me is that, this particular plant, had the strongest “sour” smell (or at least what I think “sour” would smell like) out of all the plants l tortured.
It’ll be very interesting to see how it turns out because although it would be remiss of me to say I’ve improved on the Blackdog, it will definitely improve the stretch and be a little bit later for harvest.
Tom Hill dropped some knowledge on the fact that it’s not actually root stress that retards plant development, it’s exudate build up in the pot. So although the biggest plants are possibly root bound, they’re not slowing In growth due to feeding and flushing but they are slowing down due to stress, created by the inability to spread the root zone and power growth.
You’ll also notice that my plants are in square pots, this is because l realised years ago that plants transplant so much better and they fit together better, in spaces. It’s only in the last few years that orchardists and tree planters have realised that what I’ve been banging on about for years is true and the new recommended way to plant is in a square hole….for trees.
Plants in a square pot do not suffer transplant shock in the same way as plants in a round container do because the roots don’t circle. (As side note Shrews believes that if you face the plant, the same way it’s praying to the sun, it will transplant so much better and can reduce transplant shock.) Transplant shock can potentially set a plant back a week or more depending on root disturbance, in my opinion.( assuming it goes into perfect soil) It’s the reason I don’t tickle roots and prefer to use a “wet and dry” potential, so the plant has to find water without messing with it.
Anyway, I’ve watered the bigger plants again today with the nutrient mix because they are going out in five days, which is the first of December here but the first of June there. I’m aiming for %50 hydration in the pot so the plant won’t struggle but ithe roots still have to go looking for water as the two different mediums equalise out in terms of moisture.
So lm growing all clones this year and it’s interesting over the years to see how different people do what they do. For me, l like to alow a clone plant to decide what it’s main leader’s going to be, so that means waiting and watching.
You can force a main leader by close planting
Well I’ve had enough for writing for now I’ll get back to it and do a bit more soon and answer a question or two in a bit.
Cheers,
40
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Old Piney
Well-known member
Nice to hear from you and please keep posting these wonderful spring pictures. I don't think it common knowledge but yes I've Know this for years. It's even true with with landscape plants and trees the smaller transplant will catch up with the bigger ones, I think ist because of root restriction and more shock .I try not to grow big plants and they still get too big but you grow the monsters lol
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone,
Thanks Old Piney. I do aim for a few big girls every year and manage to fluke a few more
I’ve spent the day transplanting today because we’ve got rain on the way. The nitrate in the rain water that’s created when nitrogen particles are ionised by lightning really kicks a transplant off especially when it’s combined with the H2O2 that comes with it as well.
Here’s a picture of one of the transplants and the feeder roots at the edge of the pot.
You will also notice the stake I’ve put in to stop the younger clone from flopping around because the root system wasn’t developed properly to hold the plant in place.
Here’s a close up of another transplant showing scruffy growth down low. I leave this for a week or two before I start rubbing it off. I like the plants to establish before l do this because they’re using those leaves and little laterals to power development and to injure the plant now means it’s got to divert energy and resources into healing itself which translates into and powers transplant shock.
Of course, if you’re planting a guerrilla spot this technique comes in handy to slow transpiration by reducing the canopy especially if you can’t water regularly or you’ve got a dry farming style.
Here’s a couple of pictures of the soil itself. It’s moving with life and l always feel bad for the worms l dig up. By this stage of the season l can’t scratch anywhere and not disturb worms. I call this Wormageddon for a bit of a laugh but for me, it’s a very important part of the strategy to power growth with top dressings.
And finally, “any volunteers take one step forward”.
I believe this one to be a Blackdog x Koffee f8 but I can’t be sure. I’m letting it go just for a bit of fun so we’ll see what happens and how it progresses. For the moment, it’s got a really big stem and solid structure and of course l forgot to do a stem rub. Anyway I’ve got more to do tomorrow, once the rain stops, so I’ll have a look then and maybe post a few more pictures up and detail a bit more of the techniques l use to set my transplants up for explosive growth.
Cheers,
40.
Thanks Old Piney. I do aim for a few big girls every year and manage to fluke a few more
I’ve spent the day transplanting today because we’ve got rain on the way. The nitrate in the rain water that’s created when nitrogen particles are ionised by lightning really kicks a transplant off especially when it’s combined with the H2O2 that comes with it as well.
Here’s a picture of one of the transplants and the feeder roots at the edge of the pot.
Here’s a close up of another transplant showing scruffy growth down low. I leave this for a week or two before I start rubbing it off. I like the plants to establish before l do this because they’re using those leaves and little laterals to power development and to injure the plant now means it’s got to divert energy and resources into healing itself which translates into and powers transplant shock.
Of course, if you’re planting a guerrilla spot this technique comes in handy to slow transpiration by reducing the canopy especially if you can’t water regularly or you’ve got a dry farming style.
Here’s a couple of pictures of the soil itself. It’s moving with life and l always feel bad for the worms l dig up. By this stage of the season l can’t scratch anywhere and not disturb worms. I call this Wormageddon for a bit of a laugh but for me, it’s a very important part of the strategy to power growth with top dressings.
Cheers,
40.
Howdy y’all!
Hope everyone’s holiday season is going swimmingly so far! Tis’ the time for Family!
Went on a fantastic Thanksgiving holiday, got to visit with Brother and Sister over in Arizona.
Here’s a little snapshot of the experience.
8,000ft at the house looking at 12,600ft. The mountain is called Mt. Humphreys
Alrighty, now onto the plants. I only have a handful of small, late-season autos left standing. We had a tremendous storm pummel us over the past week, near 10 inches of rain followed by low temps in the 20’s. Thoroughly surprised by these little guys so far, I may push them until we get gnarly snowstorms and I’m forced to chop them. Looking forwards to the night that these plants get turned into hash.
Hope everyone is well and getting to enjoy family and friends over the holidays. Best of luck to any northerners with plants still up and here’s to hoping for a smooth season for our friends down south!
Hope everyone’s holiday season is going swimmingly so far! Tis’ the time for Family!
Went on a fantastic Thanksgiving holiday, got to visit with Brother and Sister over in Arizona.
Here’s a little snapshot of the experience.
8,000ft at the house looking at 12,600ft. The mountain is called Mt. Humphreys
Alrighty, now onto the plants. I only have a handful of small, late-season autos left standing. We had a tremendous storm pummel us over the past week, near 10 inches of rain followed by low temps in the 20’s. Thoroughly surprised by these little guys so far, I may push them until we get gnarly snowstorms and I’m forced to chop them. Looking forwards to the night that these plants get turned into hash.
Hope everyone is well and getting to enjoy family and friends over the holidays. Best of luck to any northerners with plants still up and here’s to hoping for a smooth season for our friends down south!
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone,
I’m enjoying your your pictures Bona Fortuna. It’s amazing that the resin’s still cloudy, the plant’s amazing how much it can withstand.
For me here, it’s spring and the transplants are all doing well and suffering no transplant shock. I think a big part of this has to do with the high RH and the rain that came with it.
I don’t really water transplants into their holes but instead prefer to to allow potential differences in moisture to push root development. As described in my last posts. A potential in the pot, say %50 to say %75 or more in the growing, transplant medium, pushes root development.
So I very rarely water starts in which is totally unconventional because you’ve got to fill in the voids in the soil….right. I say these voids are important for wet and dry periods and oxygen uptake. The roots don’t have to colonise a void if they don’t want to (smart pots) So have a look at this picture of a start,with roots, colonising the void.
I then don’t have to water at all until well after Christmas. This doesn’t mean I don’t feed the plants, l just don’t have to water. The soil they’re in is on the stupid scale, upwards of 6-9 cubic meters as a bit of an example, not 100 gallon pot.
Not really sure if what I’m saying makes sense because it goes against conventional wisdom but anyway, keep your transplants airy.
Can’t remember why l took this picture but it’s an example of growing your own mulch and top dressing with composted Chicken manure over the top. Egg laying chicken manure is the absolute best of all manures because it has available calcium in spades.
Oh yeah, this one’s the pre curser to the last one. That’s a big top dress of gypsum as sand as the carrier. The worms use the fine sand in their gizzards to grind their food up; then l top dressed with the chook poo. It’s two different forms of calcium, maybe three.
Anyway,
Cheers,
40
I’m enjoying your your pictures Bona Fortuna. It’s amazing that the resin’s still cloudy, the plant’s amazing how much it can withstand.
For me here, it’s spring and the transplants are all doing well and suffering no transplant shock. I think a big part of this has to do with the high RH and the rain that came with it.
I don’t really water transplants into their holes but instead prefer to to allow potential differences in moisture to push root development. As described in my last posts. A potential in the pot, say %50 to say %75 or more in the growing, transplant medium, pushes root development.
So I very rarely water starts in which is totally unconventional because you’ve got to fill in the voids in the soil….right. I say these voids are important for wet and dry periods and oxygen uptake. The roots don’t have to colonise a void if they don’t want to (smart pots) So have a look at this picture of a start,with roots, colonising the void.
Not really sure if what I’m saying makes sense because it goes against conventional wisdom but anyway, keep your transplants airy.
Anyway,
Cheers,
40
Old Piney
Well-known member
How would you describe the high?
Mild, relaxing, and gentle.
I'll try it again in 3 months.
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone,
just a quick update so you can see the progress of the plants.
The Blackdogs haven’t missed a beat since transplant and are continuing to grow. Most of them are between 700-800mm and growing around half an inch a day. I’m tossing up weather to start their weekly feeding regime Sunday or not.
Here’s a couple of pictures of the volunteer plant in the garden. It’s really solid, healthy and is about one meter tall with a slightly gassy and meaty smell. It’s really punched out some vertical growth and lateral development since the last post.
It’s just starting to sex but it’s a bit tricky to tell if it’s a male or female, so I’ll have to scope it.
Cheers,
40.
just a quick update so you can see the progress of the plants.
The Blackdogs haven’t missed a beat since transplant and are continuing to grow. Most of them are between 700-800mm and growing around half an inch a day. I’m tossing up weather to start their weekly feeding regime Sunday or not.
It’s just starting to sex but it’s a bit tricky to tell if it’s a male or female, so I’ll have to scope it.
Cheers,
40.
Howdy everyone! Christmas nears, I hope everyone is getting to spend quality time with family over these holidays!
The time has come.
The last little autos are coming down. It’s been hovering around 20 Fahrenheit as a low for the past week. These ladies are not happy, but my hash pile will be. I may keep a small nug or two from a couple, everything else will go through the bubble bags. Wishing our friends down south a smooth season!
The time has come.
The last little autos are coming down. It’s been hovering around 20 Fahrenheit as a low for the past week. These ladies are not happy, but my hash pile will be. I may keep a small nug or two from a couple, everything else will go through the bubble bags. Wishing our friends down south a smooth season!
FTL
Well-known member
You seem to have similar tastes to me for outdoors mate.
Will you try making hash with the paro?
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone, l hope you’re all well.
I was having a bit of a wander around the garden yesterday evening and I found something really interesting that I thought was worth sharing.
In these two pictures you can see the only plant in the garden that’s struggling. When you zoom in you might be able to see some pink petioles and a bit of purpling around the edges of some of the lower sun leaves. This is a phosphorus deficiency……but why is it happening when all the other plants are doing so well.
When you look closer you’ll notice carrots growing in a ring around the plant with a radius of about three feet. I’ve posted up in the past about how cannabis and carrots don’t seem to companion plant very well at all and here’s yet more proof. This is the only bed growing carrots and the plant’s suffering. It hasn’t stopped growing however and is one of the biggest in the garden.
This plant is the reason why I decided to start my feeding regime today and it’ll be really interesting to see how long it takes for this plant to turn around.
Just for comparison, here’s a few pictures of some of the other, bigger plants.
And finally the volunteer plant is throwing pistils so l guess I’ll keep it. It’s really set itself up for a good show.
Cheers 40
I was having a bit of a wander around the garden yesterday evening and I found something really interesting that I thought was worth sharing.
In these two pictures you can see the only plant in the garden that’s struggling. When you zoom in you might be able to see some pink petioles and a bit of purpling around the edges of some of the lower sun leaves. This is a phosphorus deficiency……but why is it happening when all the other plants are doing so well.
When you look closer you’ll notice carrots growing in a ring around the plant with a radius of about three feet. I’ve posted up in the past about how cannabis and carrots don’t seem to companion plant very well at all and here’s yet more proof. This is the only bed growing carrots and the plant’s suffering. It hasn’t stopped growing however and is one of the biggest in the garden.
This plant is the reason why I decided to start my feeding regime today and it’ll be really interesting to see how long it takes for this plant to turn around.
Just for comparison, here’s a few pictures of some of the other, bigger plants.
And finally the volunteer plant is throwing pistils so l guess I’ll keep it. It’s really set itself up for a good show.
Cheers 40
FTL
Well-known member
Hi @40degsouth
The old Carrot gang Strikes again!
Have you tried using clover or legumes as companion plants in spring before ?
Garden looks great
The old Carrot gang Strikes again!
Have you tried using clover or legumes as companion plants in spring before ?
Garden looks great
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey FTL.
Yeah it’s a funny old thing but I love wandering around the garden eating a carrot or two, it’s one of my simple pleasures in life and l just can’t do without them.
I’ve often puzzled over why they seem to
have such a profound effect on the plants but it’s got to be the exudates they give off that stops the roots going past them.
I have used peas and beans for cover cropping and that worked pretty well. I’ve also used green manure crops in the past but I potentially introduced the leaf spot disease in on the seed, which really took a lot of the fun out of growing, so now I’m really careful about what comes into the garden for nothing more than bio security.
Cover cropping is specifically to assist the plants development and l remember a lot of conversation on here about which plants were the best and as l recall, there was one species of clover that excelled in living in symbiosis with cannabis; can’t remember what it was now though but I think it was on Schrews thread.
I’ve found the wasabi does really well as a companion plant and you’ll see it in my pictures. It does amazingly well over winter at holding the soil together with a fantastic root system that the worms really love. In fact when you pull them up they’re all through the roots. This tells me that the exudates these plants give off are extremely beneficial to the soil life and this is why I’ve chosen to grow it as a cover crop.
Yeah it’s a funny old thing but I love wandering around the garden eating a carrot or two, it’s one of my simple pleasures in life and l just can’t do without them.
I’ve often puzzled over why they seem to
have such a profound effect on the plants but it’s got to be the exudates they give off that stops the roots going past them.
I have used peas and beans for cover cropping and that worked pretty well. I’ve also used green manure crops in the past but I potentially introduced the leaf spot disease in on the seed, which really took a lot of the fun out of growing, so now I’m really careful about what comes into the garden for nothing more than bio security.
Cover cropping is specifically to assist the plants development and l remember a lot of conversation on here about which plants were the best and as l recall, there was one species of clover that excelled in living in symbiosis with cannabis; can’t remember what it was now though but I think it was on Schrews thread.
I’ve found the wasabi does really well as a companion plant and you’ll see it in my pictures. It does amazingly well over winter at holding the soil together with a fantastic root system that the worms really love. In fact when you pull them up they’re all through the roots. This tells me that the exudates these plants give off are extremely beneficial to the soil life and this is why I’ve chosen to grow it as a cover crop.
