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[harvestreaper]

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[JDubsocal]

Here is my update- flowering has begun since I took these plants out of my tent. It turns out I have more males than females so instead of a smaller harvest it's time to make seeds and cross strains. I have 2 key lime pie females:

And now for the males:
Double Platinum

White widow crossed with green crack-

And a group shot of some smaller males

closest is keylime pie with another double Platinum and "green widow"
Time to start pollen chuckin but also sure to tag which branch was hit with what so I dont lose track. As always fellow growers and even the lurkers too, thanks for looking and thanks for sharing! I will post another update in a few weeks. Stay warm!

 

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone I really hope you’re all well.
Been a while since I’ve posted but l’ve just had a tooth out, taken the day off and medicating, so please forgive me if I get things a bit muddled up and hit me up for a question if l haven’t explained things very well. I might even read back through the post in a day or two and add something l think it might need or that I’ve missed.
. This post’s going to be a long one so buckle up for a read or do what I do and just have a look at the pictures.
First of all l’d like to let you all know I’ve been lurking around and enjoyed the harvest photos and stories. For me things haven’t been too bad despite the day to day bull shitsville of life and I’m rather glad winter’s over.
I’ve learnt a lot this year, especially with hard to clone cultivars. The Blackdog’s definitely one and she’s totally unforgiving if you get it wrong but what I’ve found is she needs %100 humidity until she roots.
I take the clones and put them straight into a wettable sulphur bath and this helps with fungal infections down the track. The other trick I’ve found is to put the rooted clone into a mix of %95 composted cow manure and %5 the best compost I’ve ever come across and then put those into another %100 humidity dome with heating and under lights, I’ve got %100 success and clones with a well established root system that can go outside when they’re touching the top of the lid.
These little ones were put out yesterday and in five days, it’s the longest day, (i.e. intense, near summer light)

A well established root system will overcome sunlight intensity, as long as you’re not silly about it.
Here’s a photo of the Blackdog mother on the right and the selected (Blackdog x Ancient Og f5 [from Mr ‘n Mrs Schrews] ) bx1on the left.

I was so impressed with this particular plant it’s going to get a run this year. These plants are about 800mm tall, or two and two thirds feet.
Here’s a photo of the leaf morphology,

it’s a bit early for you guys to see it but it’s almost the same, so much so that it’s the same. The stem rub is so close to being the same, that it’s almost identical; at this stage of development. A ripe mango with a bit of gas on the back nose.
The selection process for this plant was rigorous and if you want to check it out l posted about it last year. The funny thing for me is that, this particular plant, had the strongest “sour” smell (or at least what I think “sour” would smell like) out of all the plants l tortured.
It’ll be very interesting to see how it turns out because although it would be remiss of me to say I’ve improved on the Blackdog, it will definitely improve the stretch and be a little bit later for harvest.

Here’s a whole shot of the green house and something else I’ve learnt this year, is that later plantings will catch earlier ones. It might be common knowledge but I’ve just worked it out; as early starts use up available root space in, 5litre pots (1.25 gallons) the others still have available root space to create mass.
Tom Hill dropped some knowledge on the fact that it’s not actually root stress that retards plant development, it’s exudate build up in the pot. So although the biggest plants are possibly root bound, they’re not slowing In growth due to feeding and flushing but they are slowing down due to stress, created by the inability to spread the root zone and power growth.

The feeding I’m giving here is a 4gramm calcium nitrate, 4 gram potassium sulphate and two teaspoons of trace minerals per gallon BUT IN A HALF DOSE FOR YOUNG PLANTS, because a full dose can burn them. ( Thanks Bradley Danks)
You’ll also notice that my plants are in square pots, this is because l realised years ago that plants transplant so much better and they fit together better, in spaces. It’s only in the last few years that orchardists and tree planters have realised that what I’ve been banging on about for years is true and the new recommended way to plant is in a square hole….for trees.
Plants in a square pot do not suffer transplant shock in the same way as plants in a round container do because the roots don’t circle. (As side note Shrews believes that if you face the plant, the same way it’s praying to the sun, it will transplant so much better and can reduce transplant shock.) Transplant shock can potentially set a plant back a week or more depending on root disturbance, in my opinion.( assuming it goes into perfect soil) It’s the reason I don’t tickle roots and prefer to use a “wet and dry” potential, so the plant has to find water without messing with it.
Anyway, I’ve watered the bigger plants again today with the nutrient mix because they are going out in five days, which is the first of December here but the first of June there. I’m aiming for %50 hydration in the pot so the plant won’t struggle but ithe roots still have to go looking for water as the two different mediums equalise out in terms of moisture.
So lm growing all clones this year and it’s interesting over the years to see how different people do what they do. For me, l like to alow a clone plant to decide what it’s main leader’s going to be, so that means waiting and watching.
You can force a main leader by close planting

because the clone stretches for light (and I’m only talking about clones, not seed plants) Or, if you need shape, you’re much better off super cropping, so you don’t force the plant into a mad Systemic Induced Response. It puts all it’s energy into healing the damage you’ve done to it; the one thing most grower forget is that the plant is ALIVE and if you cut its fingers (leafs) and hands (grow tips) it has got to repair the damage and re direct the auxins while it’s doing it. This is what transplant shock is and that’s created in the roots but you can also do it in the phylosphere, in the canopy, by taking too much leaf off, or pruning too hard.


Well I’ve had enough for writing for now I’ll get back to it and do a bit more soon and answer a question or two in a bit.
Cheers,
40

 

[Old Piney]

later plantings will catch earlier ones.

Nice to hear from you and please keep posting these wonderful spring pictures. I don't think it common knowledge but yes I've Know this for years. It's even true with with landscape plants and trees the smaller transplant will catch up with the bigger ones, I think ist because of root restriction and more shock .I try not to grow big plants and they still get too big but you grow the monsters lol

 

[40degsouth]

Hey everyone,
Thanks Old Piney. I do aim for a few big girls every year and manage to fluke a few more
I’ve spent the day transplanting today because we’ve got rain on the way. The nitrate in the rain water that’s created when nitrogen particles are ionised by lightning really kicks a transplant off especially when it’s combined with the H2O2 that comes with it as well.
Here’s a picture of one of the transplants and the feeder roots at the edge of the pot.

You will also notice the stake I’ve put in to stop the younger clone from flopping around because the root system wasn’t developed properly to hold the plant in place.

Here’s a close up of another transplant showing scruffy growth down low. I leave this for a week or two before I start rubbing it off. I like the plants to establish before l do this because they’re using those leaves and little laterals to power development and to injure the plant now means it’s got to divert energy and resources into healing itself which translates into and powers transplant shock.
Of course, if you’re planting a guerrilla spot this technique comes in handy to slow transpiration by reducing the canopy especially if you can’t water regularly or you’ve got a dry farming style.

Here’s a couple of pictures of the soil itself. It’s moving with life and l always feel bad for the worms l dig up. By this stage of the season l can’t scratch anywhere and not disturb worms. I call this Wormageddon for a bit of a laugh but for me, it’s a very important part of the strategy to power growth with top dressings.

And finally, “any volunteers take one step forward”.

I believe this one to be a Blackdog x Koffee f8 but I can’t be sure. I’m letting it go just for a bit of fun so we’ll see what happens and how it progresses. For the moment, it’s got a really big stem and solid structure and of course l forgot to do a stem rub. Anyway I’ve got more to do tomorrow, once the rain stops, so I’ll have a look then and maybe post a few more pictures up and detail a bit more of the techniques l use to set my transplants up for explosive growth.
Cheers,
40.