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Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
somebody041
Member
thanks burnone!
It doesn't say to brew the tea and dilute it at 1 cup per 5 gallons. It says to take 1 cup of the dry mix, and make 5 gallons of tea with it.
If you dilute too much, it is not the same as a bigger batch. If you have 5 gallons of water oxygenated at a certain rate, versus 1 gallon of water oxygenated at the same rate, the bacteria and fungi have 5x the amount of oxygen available to them in the 5 gal batch. They have 5x the water to live in too.
Vetus Fossor
Member
A combo works...top inch or two, the heaviness of the pot of soil. Some wait till the bottom branches/leaves wilt a little. As Burn1 says..it isn't rocket surgery. Each person has their own special ways. Learn to read youe plant. It will tell you everything you need to know. Just remember- better to do little than to do too much. You can always add. It's harder than Chinese math to undo too much.
Show your plant some love and relax. It will grow.Find your own style and ways of doing things.
i.love.scotch
Active member
I have a question for you guys if you'd be kind enough to humor me. I was working on an outdoor project and had a big 15kg bag of dolomite lime out there that I ended up burying in the ground as storage for about 7 months. I went and dug it up today to put in my organic soil mix here at home and the lime is slightly damp throughout the whole bag. It's not wet but its also not in its original powder form. It will stick to itself to a degree whereas before it was a powder like dry sand. Do you guys know if this stuff is still good to use or do you think it getting damp maybe took away any of the beneficial elements that it originally had? Any input is greatly appreciated thanks!
Why take chances? You're talkin' a $5 bag of lime vs. a $2000 grow. Think man, think!
Burn1
Bionik Kronik
Member
So I have a question, do I mix all the "dry mix" together and brew the tea for a couple of days then add the molasses and the liquid karma or do I mix it all together first then brew my tea?
Also is it okay if I substitue Nitrozime for the kelp powder? Its in a liquid form not powder.
And last can I use this mix both indoors and out? I have both set up. Going with the full tea program indoors and I'm going to use FF Marine Cusine mixed in outdoors and want to just ocasionally water with the tea mix.
Vetus Fossor
Member
Bionik, mix it all together then brew. Not sure what Nitrozime is so I'll leave that one to someone else. And yes to being able to use the teas both indoors and out.
Bionik Kronik
Member
Nitrozime contains highly concentrated hormones extracted from the North Atlantic sea plant Ascophylum Nodsoum. This plant lives in an environment of extreme stress which causes production of a phenomenal level of hormones. When added to the nutrient solution or used as a foliar spray, these extra hormone levels greatly increase cell division and elongation, producing greener, more lush plants that translate into higher yields during flower production.
Nitrozime contains powerful natural growth enhancers, micro nutrients and bio-stimulants that will stimulate the growth process of the plant. Use with Agri-2 to help penetrate waxy leaves.
More on Nitrozime HOW IS THE CYTOKININ HORMONE LEVEL CONTROLLED? Nitrozime is produced using the strictest quality control methods possible. The test used to determine hormonal activity is state-of-the-art and approved by government regulators.
FROM WHAT PLANT IS NITROZIME DERIVED? The plant from which it is extracted is Ascophyllum Nodosum and is found in the Northern Atlantic Ocean and the Norwegian Sea. This plant grows on rocks in sea water, which is as cold as -20oC in the winter and as warm as 32oC in the summer months.
HOW DOES NITROZIME WORK? Plants progress through a cycle of growth stages. Using the example of wheat, the plant starts out as a seed, germinates, goes through the seedling stage, through the three, five and seven leaf stages, and finally forming a head and producing new seed. When a plant is under stress at any given stage of growth, reduced levels of cytokinin growth hormones are produced.
If this reduction occurs at certain key stages of growth such as the tillering stage, yields can be affected. By making available extra hormone to the plant at these stages, you can influence the crops final yield. Timing of the application is essential. If you apply a hormone to a plant, the result will be stimulated growth of the type which the plant is currently undergoing. If the plant is forming roots, more root growth can occur. If tillering is underway, more tillers will be formed. If stem growth is in progress, that is what will occur. If flowering is in progress more flowering will occur.
WHAT ABOUT NITROZIME AS A SEED TREATMENT? Nitrozime is very effective as a seed treatment. Many gardeners and researchers have been experimenting with Growth Plus as a seed treatment because it contains certain hormones which can help promote early seedling vigor, and up to 40% increase in root mass. More root mass leads to a healthier and a more vigorous plant.
WHY USE NITROZIME? Crops under normal growing conditions achieve only 30-40% of their genetic potential. Growing conditions such as low or high moisture levels, hot or cold temperature variations, soil imbalance and nutritional deficiencies contribute to plant stress and result in underperformance of the crop. Plants under stress are unable to produce sufficient cytokinins, the natural plant growth hormones which are necessary for plant growth, nutrient mobilization and distribution, germination, cell division, root development, flowering and seed formation. These naturally occurring hormones have a very pronounced effect on the growth of plant cells and regulate delicate physiological plant processes. After many years of research and field testing, the natural cytokinins in Nitrozime can be put to productive use on your plants. Natural cytokinins such as those found in
Nitrozime will help control and regulate: germination - root development - nutrition uptake - plant tissue composition - tillering - flowering -seed and fruit set. Nitrozime has been proven to effectively relieve stress, provide a more vigorous and healthy plant, which increases yields and profits.
A note on Jersey Greensand,
Although it does contain K it is not an ideal source for MJ because it takes so long to release, it is used in farming as more of a soil conditioner to loosen the consistenty of the growing medium among other things.
If your planning on recycling your soil then it is a worthy addition but short of recycling spend your money on kelp meal instead, it is a superior K source for MJ plus it has growth hormones and micros galore.
Sub's
Hey BurnOne im a new grower strugglin with my first crop and was hoping you could shed some light my way. I have decided to go with your LC Soiless Mix #2 and start off with your dry fert Recipe #1 since im going to be growing multiple strains and I have a couple of questions about the reciple mix.
I was able to acquire some: Alfalfa Meal ( 3-0-2 ), Fishbone (5-22-1), Kelp Meal (1-0.15-1.5) however as stated in the above quote the lady at the store told me that greensand would not be avaliable to my plants for quite awhile and suggested I go with the Langbeinite (K-Mag 0-0-22)
Would I still use your 1-1-2-1 ratio per gal of soiless mix? also would I be able to use AN's bud blood / big bud / overdrive trio along side your flowering recipe?
In addition im planning on using: AN Iguana Veg ( first week(s) - using up then switching to Fish Emulsion ) GH Subculture, Grozyme, Barricade, Liquid Karma, Sweet Leaf + Carboload ( splurged lol switching to molasses later on ) and Final Phase + pure h20 - 10 days before chop.
How does that all sound? Would love some advice, thanks.
Follow the recipe. You don't need all that other shit. If you did, I would have put it in the recipe. Greensand will help supplement the kelp toward the end of the grow. But it isn't necessary if you can't find it. You can use the alfalfa/fishbone/kelp instead of the blood/bone/kelp.
Burn1
Burn1
floydfanx6
Member
burn do u only use the liquid karma to for the soil preperation,or do u use liquid karma along with yr ewc teas for waterings/feedings
I know your keep saying dont need to add anything and i see that,,but in late flowering can u add some type of pk booster at the very end,,have u done this with success,just to beef up some yields
I know your keep saying dont need to add anything and i see that,,but in late flowering can u add some type of pk booster at the very end,,have u done this with success,just to beef up some yields
BurnOne I was fired today for reading Jorge Cervantes's Marijuana Horticulture at work, funny how the universe works. For the past 6 months everything that happens seems to keep me home with the girl's, to be honest, this is wear I would rather be. My question is this, can I transplant 4 month old mothers from hydroten drip to organic soil/medium? I have 18 mothers, 10 different strains and 50+ beautiful fully rooted clones in 70/30 perlite/vermiculite with a hydroten topping. all are receiving Dutchmaster Gold Nutes. I want to expand but just cant afford the hydro equipment at the moment, as well, I am questioning if I want to continue to stray from the natural way of things. I have read the first 20 pages of this thread and am feeling it found me at the perfect moment in my journey. I currently have 2 1000 HPS and 1 1000 MH and plenty of room, tomorrow I will start to collect all parts of the first recipe and start with tea feedings. I have enough rockwool, peat pucks, heat mats, prop trays and t12's to take two to three hundred cuttings in the next couple days as the moms need a major trim anyway. I am hoping by the time they are rooted I could have an organic mixture, blood,bone,kelp meal, LK etc. thriving to receive them. I want to try tea feedings as well as a complete organic mixture with only water in order to know the difference. I was going to change to Lucas with hydro to keep thing simple when I found this thread, what a blessing, I am excited to give the meters a break and play in the dirt. It will also be nice to leave the hydro shops be as there are plenty of specialty nursery's within 10 miles. K.I.S.S. Would a chlorine water filter be a bad idea? Is there any reason why I shouldn't transplant my current clones to recipe #1? Is there a medium you would recommend for cloning? With a little help I am sure to rock this forum with a great show. Feel free to call me on my shiz, and thank you for any and all help in advance as it will not go to waste. Karma, One Love
BurnOne, would I be able to transplant my moms to organic soil? they are about 4 months from seed in 1 gallon containers, hydroten, Dutchmaster Gold nutes drip fed 4-6' tall. I want to flower them as I have started new bonsai moms. If I trimmed them back extensively would that increase or decrease their chances as far as transplant? Thanks for the help. Karma, One Love
floydfanx6
Member
im using lc's mix with the nutes in it, im suposed to just water with the ewc/molasses tea,,i can also add guano in late flowering as well?
so u add the liquid karma to your tea? u bubble it up with the liquid karma?
ty so much
