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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

keingrower

New member
little update

I followed the advice given and did not fed my plants, instead giving them RO water straight.

the look healthier again! greened up a lot, especially in the new growth region!

thanks

will update in a few weeks
 
total noob. can someone please help with a timeline or give your input. organic is the only way

ex.
seedling (low heat, no nutes)
add diatomaceous earth to soil (organic)
veg 2-3 weeks nutes heavy N (always go slow on nutes/delicate)
couple more weeks, watch your plants, thell tell you what they need (chaning colors, curling, etc...)
apply neem oil or something similar every week? hopefully less. please let me know if this is toxic or something or other alternatives for bugs
when should you top? i've heard flip after 6-8 week veg for best tric production. top @ 3-4? flip @ 4-6 depending on strain.. LST topping, pinching
flower wants less N more P and K
if using nutes - flush at end. organics the whole way through is different and best for taste/high, your health. base mix..h20. use teas for up down the PH scale. water only last few days. molasses for sweetness.
treat growing like a lab

most important part is dry/cure
slowest dry without mold
even dry, flip budy, burp
waiting for the cure is the hardest part

please fill in blanks or give advice. i appreciate all help. thank you!
 

Art_of_Soil

New member
fish hydrolysate

fish hydrolysate

Seeking knowledge could anyone help me with some info, I'm wanting to make my own fish hydrolysate. I am wondering if i can use em-1 microbial inoculant for lacto bacilli as a lactobacillus serum for fermentation????
 

Art_of_Soil

New member
THANK YOU! lady lucky bean, I wanted to avoid making my own home made DYI, but this recipe seems to be more user friendly than others i have read over even one i read off this site previously. THANKS AGAIN i will utilize this.
 

Art_of_Soil

New member
general organic soil questions/help

general organic soil questions/help

Hello any organic soil growers still starting seeds in rock wool cubes? Wondering if i could just use pure R/0 water the pH is a perfect neutral (7) but i was taught to soak rock wool in pH between 5.5/6. But i wish not to alter the water with any chemical pH down or up.
 

rolnik1

New member
Encountered some problems, maybe you could help me with this. Seeds were put into plain mix #1(forgot lime but top 2cm is proper so i guess it should work, maybe i'm wrong on this tho), picture in cups is about one week, allready very small, pictures in pots are over 2 weeks, so like no growth at all. Transplanted around 8-9th day. Final mix is lc#1 which was grown once and was fine, then it dried out. Amended with full recipe 1, a bit of composted cow manure and liquid worm castings(100% organic), while transplanting mix was 3-4weeks old. I get that experimenting with the mix could make it not good somehow(how?), that's on me. However i could clearly see stunned growth in cups(some older 7day plant in picture), which are coco and ewc(proper not liquid) can the castings be so bad? Was it lack of lime? Also my friend doing everything from the begining acording to 1st post have some slow growth too before transplanting.

Don't know what to do. I guess these plants are pretty much lost since they're autos but what to do with the mix? Thought i'll start a fresh batch and maybe use this one at some point in future to ammend?

 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Ahh, my mistake. How much lime (dolomite?) did you top dress? Maybe it's me being a dimwit in the morning, but I find the first post a little hard to follow.
 

rolnik1

New member
Maybe true with hard to follow, english is not my language :)
I top dressed a pinch to every cup and filled top 1,5-2cm with coco+ewc+lime(i skip perlite for seedlings since it's very loose and dry already) in right proportions.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My English isn't that good at times, so we're even :D

I've seen similar damage to small covercrop/companion plants the few times I've topdressed with lime, though the main plant took it fine. It's best to let it "cook" in a moist soil for 7-14 days. What type of lime is important as well, dolomite shouldn't take a mix much past 7.0pH, but agricultural lime, oystershell, etc, can raise pH much higher with coco @ 1 cup per cubic foot.
 

rolnik1

New member
My English isn't that good at times, so we're even :D

I've seen similar damage to small covercrop/companion plants the few times I've topdressed with lime, though the main plant took it fine. It's best to let it "cook" in a moist soil for 7-14 days. What type of lime is important as well, dolomite shouldn't take a mix much past 7.0pH, but agricultural lime, oystershell, etc, can raise pH much higher with coco @ 1 cup per cubic foot.

dolomite lime, only thing that could spoil it imo, everything else is the same as previous grows which were fine. Anyone else could confirm/deny that lack of dolomite can do this?
 

Midnight Tokar

Member
Veteran
Ok so this will probably be a stupid question but I am tired or reading page after page so I thought I would ask. I finally got around to mixing up Lc soilless soilmix #2 today and wet down my soil with the liquid karma as suggested but my question is it says to mix the soil and wet as necessary ok do I wet with liquid karma each time the cooking soil is mixed or drying out do I just use plain water each time I need to moisten my cooking soil? Sorry if this has already been asked but after the first 110 pages and not seeing this question I though I would just ask. Thanks to whoever answers my question.

No, I wouldn't. You use it at the start to get all the bennies working and multiplying. FWIW, if you get it wet down proper you shouldn't need to add water unless you've had to let it sit for a very long time and/or the cover got knocked off for a fairly long time. I've never had to add water to mine until after I transplanted something into it.
 

Midnight Tokar

Member
Veteran
I suppose you could use the tarp if after mixing you made the mound as small as possible and the covered it good. I like the big oversize tubs from WallyWorld as they tend to keep out creepy crawlers better and are easy to move about and pretty cheap.
The soil is not really "cooking" it's just decomposing/digesting the additives, conditioning is probably a better term.
 
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