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Organic Fanatic Collective
- Thread starter Suby
- Start date
G
Guest
Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. It's easy to siphon off. Just get it clear with the limestone first so all the soluble stuff is in solution and all the superfine stuff that doesn't dissolve should be goodies.
How then would you store it? I figure as it's not soluble it's pretty hard to break down, the water that will come as you siphon it out could be evaporated off and fulvic and humic acid added...?
How then would you store it? I figure as it's not soluble it's pretty hard to break down, the water that will come as you siphon it out could be evaporated off and fulvic and humic acid added...?
G
Guest
Ok. The mineral tea I described will clear once limestone is added and it climbs to pH 6.7-6.8. This makes it unneccesary (for me) to replace the teabag to lower pH unless I'm topping the brew or making a new one.
The easiest way to get at the insoluble portion is to siphon the clear portion off the top. This (clear portion) is a highly buffered tea with the soluble ingredients of most everything you've added to it.
The dark stuff on the bottom should be mainly humins, superfine and deep black, I'm confident the addition of this stuff will complement many soils.
The addition of fulvic acid and molasses has helped produce a lot more of this black stuff than without them.
The easiest way to get at the insoluble portion is to siphon the clear portion off the top. This (clear portion) is a highly buffered tea with the soluble ingredients of most everything you've added to it.
The dark stuff on the bottom should be mainly humins, superfine and deep black, I'm confident the addition of this stuff will complement many soils.
The addition of fulvic acid and molasses has helped produce a lot more of this black stuff than without them.
Well hell, I just found out my region is full of lignite. I'm not sure if you have to dig it out of the ground to use it or what though. I've never seen any "brown coal", guess I never was looking for any in the soil though. I think I read that it was mainly in clay soil.
quadracer
Active member
Hey guys,
just chiming in on the humic acid. I've posted this before, and I've done a little experimenting with adding humic acid ore into my teas.
Here's what Down to Earth says about the subject:
It works pretty well in low doses. If there is too much humic acid present, it will lock out other nutrients and make the teas useless.
Humic acid ore is the end result of thousands of years of decomposing. Home compost piles will not produce the humus available by Down to Earth, but the addition of humus will definately help out your compost.
just chiming in on the humic acid. I've posted this before, and I've done a little experimenting with adding humic acid ore into my teas.
Here's what Down to Earth says about the subject:
It works pretty well in low doses. If there is too much humic acid present, it will lock out other nutrients and make the teas useless.
Humic acid ore is the end result of thousands of years of decomposing. Home compost piles will not produce the humus available by Down to Earth, but the addition of humus will definately help out your compost.
Great discussion guys, it's nice to see some new and old faces.
Great post Quadracer, I'm unclear as to what types of humic acids exist for purchase.
I find humics and fulvics are a good catalyst and additive but in my mind I feel the growing need to seperate teas that I inteed to feed with like guano, LK, so mostly catalysts and high release element like guanos vs. microbial teas I want to combat pathogens and/or boost the microherd.
S
Great post Quadracer, I'm unclear as to what types of humic acids exist for purchase.
I find humics and fulvics are a good catalyst and additive but in my mind I feel the growing need to seperate teas that I inteed to feed with like guano, LK, so mostly catalysts and high release element like guanos vs. microbial teas I want to combat pathogens and/or boost the microherd.
S
Good to see so many regular IC'ers floating round,
I have to get back to you on that one BongSong, I've been flat out working for the man!,,, and there is much to play with - regarding tea composites.
Firstly I wanted to share some info on Fish,,,, now, I understand most of this is common knowledge ,, but I personally wasn't 100% sure what the difference was between Fish Emulsion & Fish Hydrolysate ,,,, slap me if I'm repeating a prior post ( I'll enjoy it anyway!
) ...... so here's the menu, with a couple of side dishes....
Fish Meal
Fish meals can contain as much as 12% nitrogen. There are several methods of transforming dried fish wastes into fertilizer. These are often stabilized with food and feed grade preservatives, and can spoil even with the preservative. Removal of the oil is an important step in both enhancing the nitrogen content and preventing rancidity. Fish meal, spray-dried fish and fish protein are less bulky and more concentrated than the other sources of nutrients. This is the most easily handled, shipped and stored of the fish products. The meal can be banded in or drop-slotted as a starter fertilizer, knifed in as a sidedress, or applied in solution as a foliar fertilizer. It is possible to use spray-dried fish protein in low-volume drip irrigation systems. When agitated with a drum beater, the fish protein easily goes into solution. Lines will not become clogged when they are properly flushed.
Fish Emulsion
In the manufacture of fish emulsion, the by-products of cleaned fish, such as the heads, guts and bones are cooked at temperatures in excess of 180°F to kill most of the putrefaction bacteria. The resulting product is filtered and stabilized. In most cases, the stabilizers used are sulfuric or phosphoric acid. Fish emulsion is more difficult to store and transport than fish meal. It is lower in nutrients as well. It does have the advantage of going into solution more easily, requiring less attention and maintenance to apply as a foliar feed or to inject into a drip irrigation system.
Fish Hydrolysate
The new technology that has increased fishing efficiency has also resulted in the taking of species or sizes not suitable for market, known as the by-catch. An increased catch of unsaleable whole fish has resulted from the increased by-catch of the fishing industry. These fish are often dumped overboard at sea, but are also brought into port in the holds of fishing boats. This has created an incentive to find a market for the by-catch in order to lower the cost of production. The liquid fish hydrolysate process minces the whole fish, then enzymatically digests, grinds and liquefies the resulting product, known as gurry. Because it is a cold process, gurry putrefies more rapidly than fish emulsion and needs to be stabilized at a lower pH, requiring more acid. Researchers have tried formic acid, sulfuric acid, and others. Formic acid had phytotoxic effects on plants. Phosphoric acid is the preferred stabilizer. The hydrolysate process has substantially lower capital and production costs than fish emulsion production.
Kelp and Other Sea Plants
While most often used as a foliar spray, sea plants can also be used as a soil amendment, compost ingredient or irrigation feed. Wet seaweed gathered on the beach, washed and composted, can be a good biological source of potassium and trace elements. The colloids found in sea plants can improve soil filth. Kelp and other sea plants also contain relatively concentrated amounts of plant auxins, growth regulators and stimulants, such as indole-3-acetic acid (IAA), gibberellic acid and cytokinins. These can help promote rooting in transplants and cuttings, and also help to delay decay in mature crops. Kelp is a large underwater plant that accumulates a number of nutrients. Most commercial soluble aquatic plant products are based on the kelp species Ascophyllum nodosum, harvested from the North Atlantic off the coasts of Canada and Norway. These can be sold as meal, liquid extract or powder. Sea plants, particularly in liquid formulations, are often stabilized with food and feed grade preservatives to prevent decay. The powders, more heavily processed than the meals, contain lower amounts of nutrients and salts, but are easier to transport and store. According to some industry sources, the more heavily processed forms also contain lower concentrations of growth regulators.
Shellfish Waste
Several sources of shellfish waste have a beneficial effect on soils. Oyster shell lime provides approximately 40-50% calcium carbonate, and contains nitrogen in the form of protein from the muscles left on the shells. The material is faster acting than limestone. Crab waste contains 10-15% chitin, a substance that has demonstrated ability to suppress nematodes. Additional nitrogen is important to help suppress the nematodes, so some commercial products are fortified with urea. Both of these products have relatively limited distribution.
and to quote
Bill Ginn
Marketing Coordinator
Alaska Fish Fertilizer
Conclusion - fish hydrolysate is a much superior product when compared to emulsion and an excellent source of Nitrogen and Phosphorus as well as a full spectrum of minerals and essential oils, i.e., fatty oils, omega 3, etc.,,, plus it’s a proven bio-stimulant for a broad spectrum of beneficial micro-organisms especially fungi.
Oh yeah, and George W Sr. has his finger in the pie too!
Have a great weekend all you OFC nutters,
I have to get back to you on that one BongSong, I've been flat out working for the man!,,, and there is much to play with - regarding tea composites.
Firstly I wanted to share some info on Fish,,,, now, I understand most of this is common knowledge ,, but I personally wasn't 100% sure what the difference was between Fish Emulsion & Fish Hydrolysate ,,,, slap me if I'm repeating a prior post ( I'll enjoy it anyway!
) ...... so here's the menu, with a couple of side dishes....Fish Meal
Fish meals can contain as much as 12% nitrogen. There are several methods of transforming dried fish wastes into fertilizer. These are often stabilized with food and feed grade preservatives, and can spoil even with the preservative. Removal of the oil is an important step in both enhancing the nitrogen content and preventing rancidity. Fish meal, spray-dried fish and fish protein are less bulky and more concentrated than the other sources of nutrients. This is the most easily handled, shipped and stored of the fish products. The meal can be banded in or drop-slotted as a starter fertilizer, knifed in as a sidedress, or applied in solution as a foliar fertilizer. It is possible to use spray-dried fish protein in low-volume drip irrigation systems. When agitated with a drum beater, the fish protein easily goes into solution. Lines will not become clogged when they are properly flushed.
Fish Emulsion
In the manufacture of fish emulsion, the by-products of cleaned fish, such as the heads, guts and bones are cooked at temperatures in excess of 180°F to kill most of the putrefaction bacteria. The resulting product is filtered and stabilized. In most cases, the stabilizers used are sulfuric or phosphoric acid. Fish emulsion is more difficult to store and transport than fish meal. It is lower in nutrients as well. It does have the advantage of going into solution more easily, requiring less attention and maintenance to apply as a foliar feed or to inject into a drip irrigation system.
Fish Hydrolysate
The new technology that has increased fishing efficiency has also resulted in the taking of species or sizes not suitable for market, known as the by-catch. An increased catch of unsaleable whole fish has resulted from the increased by-catch of the fishing industry. These fish are often dumped overboard at sea, but are also brought into port in the holds of fishing boats. This has created an incentive to find a market for the by-catch in order to lower the cost of production. The liquid fish hydrolysate process minces the whole fish, then enzymatically digests, grinds and liquefies the resulting product, known as gurry. Because it is a cold process, gurry putrefies more rapidly than fish emulsion and needs to be stabilized at a lower pH, requiring more acid. Researchers have tried formic acid, sulfuric acid, and others. Formic acid had phytotoxic effects on plants. Phosphoric acid is the preferred stabilizer. The hydrolysate process has substantially lower capital and production costs than fish emulsion production.
Kelp and Other Sea Plants
While most often used as a foliar spray, sea plants can also be used as a soil amendment, compost ingredient or irrigation feed. Wet seaweed gathered on the beach, washed and composted, can be a good biological source of potassium and trace elements. The colloids found in sea plants can improve soil filth. Kelp and other sea plants also contain relatively concentrated amounts of plant auxins, growth regulators and stimulants, such as indole-3-acetic acid (IAA), gibberellic acid and cytokinins. These can help promote rooting in transplants and cuttings, and also help to delay decay in mature crops. Kelp is a large underwater plant that accumulates a number of nutrients. Most commercial soluble aquatic plant products are based on the kelp species Ascophyllum nodosum, harvested from the North Atlantic off the coasts of Canada and Norway. These can be sold as meal, liquid extract or powder. Sea plants, particularly in liquid formulations, are often stabilized with food and feed grade preservatives to prevent decay. The powders, more heavily processed than the meals, contain lower amounts of nutrients and salts, but are easier to transport and store. According to some industry sources, the more heavily processed forms also contain lower concentrations of growth regulators.
Shellfish Waste
Several sources of shellfish waste have a beneficial effect on soils. Oyster shell lime provides approximately 40-50% calcium carbonate, and contains nitrogen in the form of protein from the muscles left on the shells. The material is faster acting than limestone. Crab waste contains 10-15% chitin, a substance that has demonstrated ability to suppress nematodes. Additional nitrogen is important to help suppress the nematodes, so some commercial products are fortified with urea. Both of these products have relatively limited distribution.
and to quote
Bill Ginn
Marketing Coordinator
Alaska Fish Fertilizer
Conclusion - fish hydrolysate is a much superior product when compared to emulsion and an excellent source of Nitrogen and Phosphorus as well as a full spectrum of minerals and essential oils, i.e., fatty oils, omega 3, etc.,,, plus it’s a proven bio-stimulant for a broad spectrum of beneficial micro-organisms especially fungi.
Oh yeah, and George W Sr. has his finger in the pie too!
Have a great weekend all you OFC nutters,
nice post smurf, reminds me of when i made my own emulsions. what a stinky time that was.
add this quick list for reference since i started a new batch of compost. only been 3 days ( rainy days i might add) and when i open up the lid after a tumble its steaming like crazy, bio activity at high levels even in cold weather.
NATURAL SOURCES OF TRACE ELEMENTS FOR COMPOSTING
SULPHUR
CABBAGE LEAVES
-------------------------------------------------------------------
IRON
STINGING NETTLE, COMPOST, DANDELION, HORSE MANURE, SPINACH
-------------------------------------------------------------------
BORON
BEETROOT LEAVES, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, SEAGRASS, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
MANGANESE
CHICK WEED, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
COPPER
STINGING NETTLE, YARROW, DANDELION, CHICK WEED, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
ZINC
HORSE MANURE, CORN STALKS, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
CALCIUM
DANDELION, LUCERNE HAY, COMFREY, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, SEAGRASS, BLOOD & BONE
-------------------------------------------------------------------
MOLYBDENUM
CORNSTALKS, COMPOST, GRASS CLIPPINGS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
NITROGEN
BIRD MANURE, BLOOD & BONE, GRASS CLIPPINGS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
PHOSPHORUS
COMFREY, SEAGRASS, HORSE MANURE, BLOOD & BONE
-------------------------------------------------------------------
POTASSIUM
COMFREY, HORSE MANURE, SEAGRASS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
MAGNESIUM
GRASS CLIPPINGS, SEAGRASS
add this quick list for reference since i started a new batch of compost. only been 3 days ( rainy days i might add) and when i open up the lid after a tumble its steaming like crazy, bio activity at high levels even in cold weather.
NATURAL SOURCES OF TRACE ELEMENTS FOR COMPOSTING
SULPHUR
CABBAGE LEAVES
-------------------------------------------------------------------
IRON
STINGING NETTLE, COMPOST, DANDELION, HORSE MANURE, SPINACH
-------------------------------------------------------------------
BORON
BEETROOT LEAVES, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, SEAGRASS, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
MANGANESE
CHICK WEED, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
COPPER
STINGING NETTLE, YARROW, DANDELION, CHICK WEED, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
ZINC
HORSE MANURE, CORN STALKS, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST
-------------------------------------------------------------------
CALCIUM
DANDELION, LUCERNE HAY, COMFREY, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, SEAGRASS, BLOOD & BONE
-------------------------------------------------------------------
MOLYBDENUM
CORNSTALKS, COMPOST, GRASS CLIPPINGS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
NITROGEN
BIRD MANURE, BLOOD & BONE, GRASS CLIPPINGS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
PHOSPHORUS
COMFREY, SEAGRASS, HORSE MANURE, BLOOD & BONE
-------------------------------------------------------------------
POTASSIUM
COMFREY, HORSE MANURE, SEAGRASS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
MAGNESIUM
GRASS CLIPPINGS, SEAGRASS
Last edited:
Scay Beez
Active member
smurf: Good info. I agree with the seaweed info, liquid is superior. I also like using different species - B. Seaweed (Macrocytis) expensive but top notch, Eco-Nereo kelp & humic acid (Nereocystis luetkeana) native pacific seaweed, and cold pressed Ascophyllum nodosum (coldest growing seawed, most NPK). I'm dying to try that calcified seaweed.
Ganico: Any "organic" way to extract fulvic and/or humic acid? Would just lemon juice work? Well, work with any significant efficiency at least?
I wish I knew more about the process of making food grade fulvic and humic. It's gotta be something with a high PH to extract them. The calcium hydroxide is mineral, close enough to organic. It might be worth wading through that yahoo group to see if the topic got elaborated on. Lots of professionals post to that group.
Suby: I just started messing around with anaerobic guano teas. I'm thinking do the guanos NPK anaerobic style because it will get maximum nutrients and it can be diluted so it won't kill the microbes. Then I'm gonna add the aerobic tea in higher quantity to ensure more aerobic microbes, but not necessarily exclude the "anaerobic" ones. I haven't seen anybody do this yet and I'm very curious how it will work.
jaykush: You lucky composting mofo. I wish I had room at the moment. Nice list of sources!
- sbz
Ganico: Any "organic" way to extract fulvic and/or humic acid? Would just lemon juice work? Well, work with any significant efficiency at least?
I wish I knew more about the process of making food grade fulvic and humic. It's gotta be something with a high PH to extract them. The calcium hydroxide is mineral, close enough to organic. It might be worth wading through that yahoo group to see if the topic got elaborated on. Lots of professionals post to that group.
Suby: I just started messing around with anaerobic guano teas. I'm thinking do the guanos NPK anaerobic style because it will get maximum nutrients and it can be diluted so it won't kill the microbes. Then I'm gonna add the aerobic tea in higher quantity to ensure more aerobic microbes, but not necessarily exclude the "anaerobic" ones. I haven't seen anybody do this yet and I'm very curious how it will work.
jaykush: You lucky composting mofo. I wish I had room at the moment. Nice list of sources!
- sbz
hey scaybeez ive used anaerobic guano teas for quite some time and damn do they give good results. i never even used aerated tea once on the anaerobic plants and they were so healthy. you just have to make sure you dont let it go too anaerobic because i think theres a point of no return.
room for composting psshhh. man im doing it all in my trash can tumbler. compost every 2-4 weeks, top quality too. takes no space at all. no need for those massive piles and waiting a few months. im running out of uses for the compost its making, cant use it fast enough.
I'm actually using some of those from that list , and was wondering about a couple others there,,, cheers for that jaykush,
hey scaybeez, I've only ever made a guano slurry & then added oxygenated water (just bubbled for a few hours) and then finally to a well made tea immediately prior to feeding, with good results, ,,,, so you've got me curious how it's gonna turn out with the anaerobes. Do you have a particular ratio in mind? - aerobic : anaerobic? I'm just wondering if any anaerobic pathogens will divide & conquer? (pun intended, hehe,)
I have only recently converted over from using Ascophyllum nodosum exclusively,, to a product that has a combination of 3 kelps.....
Sargassum , Laminaria, & Ascophyllum,,, like you said about the npk, A. nodosom also has very high levels of cytokinins & the highest mineral content of any kelp. The other plus is kelp can also be used for chelating. This particular Tri-kelp I'm using has been freeze dried (tiny flakes) with a stack of K & P in it, minute amount of N, along with all your trace elements as well as Alginic Acid (18%) which is said to boost water retention,,,,, I was really excited when first told about it (sad but true, lol) , am only using 1 gram / litre , best bang for my buck in a very long time!.....
hey scaybeez, I've only ever made a guano slurry & then added oxygenated water (just bubbled for a few hours) and then finally to a well made tea immediately prior to feeding, with good results, ,,,, so you've got me curious how it's gonna turn out with the anaerobes. Do you have a particular ratio in mind? - aerobic : anaerobic? I'm just wondering if any anaerobic pathogens will divide & conquer? (pun intended, hehe,)
I have only recently converted over from using Ascophyllum nodosum exclusively,, to a product that has a combination of 3 kelps.....
Sargassum , Laminaria, & Ascophyllum,,, like you said about the npk, A. nodosom also has very high levels of cytokinins & the highest mineral content of any kelp. The other plus is kelp can also be used for chelating. This particular Tri-kelp I'm using has been freeze dried (tiny flakes) with a stack of K & P in it, minute amount of N, along with all your trace elements as well as Alginic Acid (18%) which is said to boost water retention,,,,, I was really excited when first told about it (sad but true, lol) , am only using 1 gram / litre , best bang for my buck in a very long time!.....
Hello all,
I may have mentioned this before but my teas are brewed in a milk jug.
I have not changed the jug now in about 6 months. I just keep re-charging the jugs with ingredients and bubble for 2-4 days. When it gets about an inch of muck on the bottom I swirl it around and pour the nasty nasty muck in the lawn and start over again with fresh ingredients.
I have left tea sit for about 3 days with no air before I gave it an innoculent and restarted the air. I have seen no ill effects of going from aerobic to anarobic back to aerobic states.
Anyway, I have some nasty stuff growing in that milk jug but my girls love it.
Anyway, I use a 1-10-.02 guano/dry molasses/(ewc/compost)/liquid kelp w/ humic acid as a base for my teas and I amend my teas with EJ bloom, Alaska fish squeezins', cider vinegar and powdered nonfat milk as needed and am having the best grows in the almost three years of growing.
I use the fish emulsions and EJ Bloom as a pH correction as my teas always brew to a pH of 8.5.
I feed with every watering using mild fert solutions. On occassion I spike either AFS or EJB as needed.
I feel like I am starting to get my grow dialed in.
minds_I
I may have mentioned this before but my teas are brewed in a milk jug.
I have not changed the jug now in about 6 months. I just keep re-charging the jugs with ingredients and bubble for 2-4 days. When it gets about an inch of muck on the bottom I swirl it around and pour the nasty nasty muck in the lawn and start over again with fresh ingredients.
I have left tea sit for about 3 days with no air before I gave it an innoculent and restarted the air. I have seen no ill effects of going from aerobic to anarobic back to aerobic states.
Anyway, I have some nasty stuff growing in that milk jug but my girls love it.
Anyway, I use a 1-10-.02 guano/dry molasses/(ewc/compost)/liquid kelp w/ humic acid as a base for my teas and I amend my teas with EJ bloom, Alaska fish squeezins', cider vinegar and powdered nonfat milk as needed and am having the best grows in the almost three years of growing.
I use the fish emulsions and EJ Bloom as a pH correction as my teas always brew to a pH of 8.5.
I feed with every watering using mild fert solutions. On occassion I spike either AFS or EJB as needed.
I feel like I am starting to get my grow dialed in.
minds_I
Scay Beez
Active member
jaykush: Thanks for sharing your experience. I just don't have enough room to store the finished and non finished compost while things are going on. Its kinda funny because I think the first compost teas I made about 5 years ago went anaerobic unintentionally. The containers were longer (horizontal) rather than taller (vertical) so it didn't stay oxygenated as well, I was using those bendable rubber airstones which are no good with organics (rubber breaks down, easily clogged with biofilm), it got too hot, and I was using waayyy too much ingredients (1/2 to 1 cup of molasses for 5 gallons..haha).
The anaerobic guano teas I've been making smell a lot more like my older teas (very strong earthy fruity guano smells). I'm using bongaloid's recipe which is 2 cups of N or P guano in 5 gallon bucket. I'm also gonna mess with a High N Bat/High P seabird and/or Peruvian Seabird Guano combinations for veg and High P bat and Seabird guanos for flower. Less N than aerobic teas is one of the keys because very little if any at all will be lost to the air. I'm working on getting all the different types of guanos. My mix is gonna be mostly compost tea with light ingredients (alaskan humisoil and/or EWC, seaweed, and molasses) and then 1 or 2 cups of anaerobic guano tea for the nutrient punch.
smurf: As long as too much ammonia doesn't form I don't believe it shouldn't kill them off. Only a cup or two is needed and I think it will be diluted enough.
That tri-kelp product looks awesome and so does that other seaweed (bull seaweed) and aloe product.
Organic soil form has been live lately! Love to see so many people contributing and experimenting. Gets me thinking all deep.
- sbz
The anaerobic guano teas I've been making smell a lot more like my older teas (very strong earthy fruity guano smells). I'm using bongaloid's recipe which is 2 cups of N or P guano in 5 gallon bucket. I'm also gonna mess with a High N Bat/High P seabird and/or Peruvian Seabird Guano combinations for veg and High P bat and Seabird guanos for flower. Less N than aerobic teas is one of the keys because very little if any at all will be lost to the air. I'm working on getting all the different types of guanos. My mix is gonna be mostly compost tea with light ingredients (alaskan humisoil and/or EWC, seaweed, and molasses) and then 1 or 2 cups of anaerobic guano tea for the nutrient punch.
smurf: As long as too much ammonia doesn't form I don't believe it shouldn't kill them off. Only a cup or two is needed and I think it will be diluted enough.
That tri-kelp product looks awesome and so does that other seaweed (bull seaweed) and aloe product.
Organic soil form has been live lately! Love to see so many people contributing and experimenting. Gets me thinking all deep.
- sbz
G
Guest
Hi guys
I gave the dark part of my peat/aquawater/molasses/limestone tea (the undissolved portion) to a small system I run. Then went away for weekend. Came home and the plants have took off. Only seedlings but they've done an impressive increase in size.
This was a new part of a system I'm cycling in, an ebb and flow bed. It made it jump-start.
I'll try the next brew on some young peppers in dirt. VERY pleased with the aquaponic result.
I gave the dark part of my peat/aquawater/molasses/limestone tea (the undissolved portion) to a small system I run. Then went away for weekend. Came home and the plants have took off. Only seedlings but they've done an impressive increase in size.
This was a new part of a system I'm cycling in, an ebb and flow bed. It made it jump-start.
I'll try the next brew on some young peppers in dirt. VERY pleased with the aquaponic result.
i hear you. shit takes up lots of room when your finishing batches in a few weeks. im going to start giving it away most likely. haha i had the same problem once with a new brewer. was really long i figured what the hell it will work. came back to some stink out back, it happens we are stoners after all. ****! a cup of molasses. musta had some stink after it went anaerobic.
but yea the guano teas. well i like to call them guano extracts more than teas, it doesn't matter though. are you going to dilute after using that amount. when doing anaerobic stuff i always go with little but often because ive ****ed some plants up bad with larger amounts. dont want the shit sitting in the bucket for too long or some nasties can grow in there, stay safe messin with anaerobes.
some advanced composting information for the more experienced. but a well worth it read to anyone.
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/science.html
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/science.html
Hope this helps you Ganico........
Nutritional Information on Nuts, acorns, raw
http://elook.org/nutrition/nuts/3216.html
Nutritional Information on Nuts, acorns, dried
http://elook.org/nutrition/nuts/3217.html
and this last one for fun,, Nutritional Information on Nuts, acorn flour, full fat
http://elook.org/nutrition/nuts/3218.html
