Organic Fanatic Collective

[jaykush]

hmmm scaybeez thats not exactly what ive seen done. always just turned one way and stayed that way. you would have to make some kind of machine to get what your saying. i gotta make another waterfall brewer they do work hella good.

the cane yea i figured it would be more faster available but all in all when making tea it doesn't need to be THAT fast of release. its gonna sit for two days anyways ya know. then theres always the rotten fruit scraps for the fungi if the bacteria will only eat the cane. either one is good for use ill put in whatever is available at the time. plus i like to mix match mix it up.

ps: were all organic nerds. specially that dude suby he reeks organic nerd from 500ft away haha must be the dank.

 

[Suby]

Yeah I'm a huge nerd...yet still I can't type for shit...2 finger style.
Right now I am finishing the last of my "logbottom leaf", a few joints and I'm back to buying like the rest of the lowlife's

Scabz great to have you along, you'll love the OFC, I've read that different sugar types lead to different breeding benefits, notably fungi and bacterial balance.

Peace All.

 

[Suby]

I was reading some old articles today and something keeps getting my attention as far as tea brewing is concerned.
I'm seeing alot of brewers using a stronger nitrogen content in their microbial teas.
I was perusing some old HT articles and Dried Yeast extract came up as a good source, rice flour and other also.
The article in question mentions a mix of:

60% compost/vermicompost
20% sugar (molasses, raw sugar cane, linins/cellulose?, etc.)
10% seaweed
10% protein source (yeast extract, unbleached sources, 5% for dried milk sources)

It fails to mention how much of this mix is to be used per gallon
I'm going to try using the dried yeasdt extract but I'll have to source it :

Peace Guys
S

 

[chosen]

What do you guys think of this for an organic bloom compost tea?

Rainbow Mix Bloom
1-9-2
Formulated from Bat guano, Sea Kelp, Feather Meal, Soft Rock Phosphate, Langbeinite, Cottonseed Meal, Montmorillonite, Steamed Bone Meal, Natural Potash, and a variety of beneficial mycorrhizae for the healthiest growth possible. This is a fine-tuned organic formulation that is easy to use and very forgiving, offering even the brownest of thumbs spectacular results.

Humic Acid Soluble Powder


Maxsea Seaweed Fertilizer 3-20-20


I was thinking of steeping these in an aerated solution with 2-3 tbsp of each in 5 gallons of water.

I've got to tell the truth though. I am a chemical or semi-chemical hydro farmer. Yet, I'd like to try going organic.

 

[vonforne]

I was reading some old articles today and something keeps getting my attention as far as tea brewing is concerned.
I'm seeing alot of brewers using a stronger nitrogen content in their microbial teas.
I was perusing some old HT articles and Dried Yeast extract came up as a good source, rice flour and other also.
The article in question mentions a mix of:

60% compost/vermicompost
20% sugar (molasses, raw sugar cane, linins/cellulose?, etc.)
10% seaweed
10% protein source (yeast extract, unbleached sources, 5% for dried milk sources)

It fails to mention how much of this mix is to be used per gallon
I'm going to try using the dried yeasdt extract but I'll have to source it :

Peace Guys
S

Here is something of interest on yeast.

What is Yeast?
Yeast is a tiny plant-like microorganism that exists all around us - in soil, on plants and even in the air. It has existed for so long, it is referred to as ‘the oldest plant cultivated by man’.

The main purpose of yeast is to serve as a catalyst in the process of fermentation, which is essential in the making of bread.

Microbial tea on crack? Yeast aids in the fermintation of sugar which releases carbon dioxide and other gases.

 

[Guest]

Due to popular demand..........so here it is.


I just can't get enough of my micro-herds, so I decided to build them a home and breeding ground. This is what I came up with; kind of a X between Bio-bucket and composting. (If I ever decided to go to hydro, I think bio-bucket would be my choice)

Here's a shot of the whole thing:


30gln res at the bottom. The tub has a 4" hole cut in the lid and a 350gln Magdrive pump to push the water to the top of the bucket and a 50gln pump helping circulate the bulk of water.

The pumps pushes water to the top of a 5gln bucket where it trickles back down through 3 distinct layers where it will drain back to the res.

The bucket has a 4" hole cut into the bottom.

A 4" plastic pot was dropped into the bottom of the bucket where it fits snuggly through the hole leaving a lip overhang in the bucket.

The lip and inside bucket bottom are sealed with GE Silicone II (this stuff is delicate enough for the most sensitive of organisms - used in terrariums with "environmental indicator" pets; ie...arboreal frogs, etc...)

The outer bucket bottom is then lined with the silicone and the pot is dropped through the 4" hole in the tub lid.

Here's a pic of the inside of the tub:


You can see the pot hanging down through.

The pump output runs straight up through the pot, through the center of the bucket where it stops about 1/2" short of the lid.

There seems to be plenty of oxygen created and the bacterias are hard at work already.

Here's a pic of the inside of the bucket:


The top layer in the bucket is rooting plugs; they provide great surface area vs. pocket distribution and are fairly large chunks.

The second layer is shredded plugs (1/4 and smaller pieces), this creates a surface similar to slow sand but not quite as slow or dense.

The first 2 layers are where 90% of the action is going on.

The third layer is crushed lava rock, this is where I get alot of disturbance in the water flow to create a bit of oxygen and a little bit more of bio-filteration.

I ran it for 3 days with plain tap before adding anything. On days 4 I added some micros and molasses. On day 7 I added some Nitrifying bacterias(5 strains). On day 10 I added Rhizobacterias (10 strains). On day 14 I topped up both bacterias. On day 15 (today) I had to add more molasses, the workers have been eating quite a bit. The initial dose of molasses had the water very dark brown/black but by today even after stirring in the res the water has become very light colored and so I added a bit more molasses to make sure there is plenty to eat in there. I also added about 2 cups of Marine Cousine to the top of the bucket, bacterias should eat this up and leave me some nice enzymes. The bottom of the tub is not painted since it is dark enough to keep light out but the lid and bucket were painted chrome to reflect the light off (this was also around the house - Krylon Plastic Fusion). I also added a tube to the lid of the bucket for fresh air; I forget what this is called but the downward flow of water creates a suction of fresh air through the bucket and water.

Feedback? Anything is appreciated.

J.

 

[vonforne]

Yes, this will fit right in. It is not your run of the mill bubbling fert bucket. Good job on the design P. if you make any improvements in the future, just post them up.

V

 

[Guest]

actually, I've made improvement and it also fits with Suby's post too. I' noticed an increased use of N as well; matter of fact it was last night I was doing this. While pondering this it became clear to me. I use more Nitrogen because of Nitrifying bacterias; as they eat the leaf litter or fish, the bucket (upper half) becomes overwhelming with an Ammonia smell - kinda cat piss smell. The bacterias are eating the Nitrogen and releasing it as a gas byproduct. (I forget which gas exactly - methane? maybe) I'm thinking of picking up some alfalfa from the pet store and feed it to 'em. At this point it seems I can feed the bucket anything I want so long as it is moderation so as not to leave food debris sitting too long. As far as real use goes; this is still in the very young stages but it is holding up well so far. Out in the Gh, the res temps stay about 55F. during 90-100F. by sitting on concrete in the dark.

j.

 

[vonforne]

Suby was talking about using yeast products. Are you currently using any? What exactly are you using(ferts) and in what amounts? Let's get everything laid out and see what we have.

I don't think Marine Cusine is totally organic and it might have a negetive effect on the mix. I have never used that stuff. How about using some dry molasses? Or are you already? It will add organic matter. MindsI had some he said contained alot of rice hulls or something. I will have to read back and see if I can pin that one down.


Jaykush is at home right now building one of these in his basement.

 

[Guest]

I hope he does build one, maybe using his own twist on it to inspire more ideas and possibilities.

As far as plant ferts; I have MC and POM Fruit N Flower. I also have liquid kelp and liquid fish but those are about gone and I have credit at the hydro store, I'm lookin for the powder kelp next time. I'm in the process of totally phasing out any purchased products and using only raw materials.

J.

 

[jaykush]

I hope he does build one, maybe using his own twist on it to inspire more ideas and possibilities.

As far as plant ferts; I have MC and POM Fruit N Flower. I also have liquid kelp and liquid fish but those are about gone and I have credit at the hydro store, I'm lookin for the powder kelp next time. I'm in the process of totally phasing out any purchased products and using only raw materials.

oh i plan on building one i need to re read all that good and maybe shoot yo a few pms, and it wont be exactly the same itl have a little twist haha. great base idea though i love it.

i try to use as much raw materials as i can. only have to buy a few things and make as much as i can or find it around me or in the mountains near by. cheaper and better the plants love it. and i love the dank nugs they give me in return.

 

[vonforne]

There are a variety of stuff you could use to produce bacteria and fungi in that. Fungi take longer to multiply in a regular tea but with that set up they would have plenty of room to grow. The reason I said fungi is because alot of the foods you are adding or thinking of adding are fungi producers. Now about the fish emulsions. You could substitute the fish emulsion and make your own with kiwis or papaya peptidase I believe these will produce the same enzymes.

That is if you are trying to make a balanced tea...bacteria to fungi.

 

[minds_I]

Hello all,

Would dry endo and ecto mychorizae(sp) able to sustain themselves in a oxygen rich liquid environment of a tea?

minds_I

 

[Guest]

I would think so as long as they have food, air, and water they should be ok.

J.

 

[Suby]

Sry I missed the last few days boys, looks like we are back to stirring the shit :.
I'm glad to see some familiar faces.
Pyrex I'm lloking forward to checking that out, right now I'm burnt lol.

Would dry endo and ecto mychorizae(sp) able to sustain themselves in a oxygen rich liquid environment of a tea?

I'm not 100% sure but Now I HAVE to know.

S

 

[emmy75]

just readin up on peat and thought i would post some info. u can find the whole article here if intersted. i never knew peat turned into coal. learn something new everyday. anyway this obviously goes offtopic from what were really interested in here but oh well

What is peat?

In a stagnant, acidic swamp, partially decayed plant matter will accumulate forming a peat layer. The nature of peat varies from a recognizable mass of leaves, roots and woody tissue at the surface to a middle partially decayed muck layer to an almost unrecognizable gel-like material after burial to a depth of 20 or 30 feet. The volume of the peat is reduced by half or more as it goes through the burial and decay stages.

Peat has a high water and ash content and a relatively low BTU. It is used today as a fuel only where other energy sources are unavailable. Here is peat cut and drying from a peat bog in Scotland.


Coalification

As time passes, plant debris accumulates on the bottom of the swamp (leaves, twigs, branches, roots etc.). This peat undergoes coalification in three main stages.

1. Aerobic decay In the first few centimeters, active aerobic bacterial decay goes on reducing the volume significantly, often as much as 50%. Because the water is stagnant and the peat is almost impermeable, the bacteria soon use up all the available oxygen and die ending the first stage.


2. Anaerobic decay A second type of bacteria, that require no oxygen exists in the swamp. These anaerobic bacteria continue the decay process reducing the volume still further. Decay produces acids and throughout stage one and two, the acidity is rising. When the pH get to about 4.0 it kills off the anaerobic bacteria. At this point the peat has changed into a black, cheesy, gel-like material Gytta The amount of inert gytta continues to accumulate as the bacteria work on the upper layers. It is this material that will eventually be changed into a coal seam. If the coal is 30 ft thick there must be at least 30 feet of gytta.


3. Bituminization While bacterial decay is the process in stages one and two, thermal processes take over for the final stage. This requires a burial of the peat (gytta) by at least two or three thousand feet of sediment depending on the geothermal gradient. This insulating blanket retains the natural heat that rises to the surface all over the earth. Once the temperature reaches 100º C the bituminization process begins. Chemical reactions drive off water, oxygen and hydrogen which raises the percentage of carbon. The degree to which the bituminization goes determines the coal Rank. When the C reaches 85% it has become subbituminous coal: at 90 % it is bituminous coal and 95% is anthracite. During bituminization, the distinguishable plant remains are lost (except microscopic ones) and the shiny black macerals are produced.

How much peat is needed to produce
a 50 foot thick coal seam?

The common idea on how to make coal is to accumulate an incredible thickness (many hundreds of feet) of peat which will then compressed into coal. Nothing could be farther from the truth!

As plant material dies and falls to the bottom of the swamp it is partially decayed producing peat. Once the peat layer reaches around 30 feet thick, the bottom portion has changed into a black, cheesy, gel-like material gytta. As more peat accumulates, the lowermost layers convert to gel. The peat/gel process is all due to bacterial decay. It is this gel that turns into coal, so for a 50 foot of coal bed we need only fifty feet of gel. At no time is there a need for hundreds of feet of peat to accumulate.

This gel-like material is not squeezed into coal, it must be heated above 1200 F (usually above 2120 F) which then bakes it into the various coals. Coal is the result of bacterial decay followed by heat.

if you want to view the pics then go here
http://smtc.uwyo.edu/coal/swamp/peat.asp

 

[emmy75]

wow this is fanatastic webpage with 100 pages of info: horitculture: science and practices

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu/lectsupl/Contents/Contents.html

thanks to the little squirrel on pg 79 that has a heart attack to provide the organic mattter that our plants love so much

 

[Migrowgrower]

Cocoa powder as a flowering fert? Is it useable? Its high in P and K and has plenty of of other goodies....soluble..

Dry cocoa powder is very low in Cholesterol and Sodium. It is also a good source of Protein, Potassium and Zinc, and a very good source of Dietary Fiber, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Copper and Manganese.
It has 2% Saturated Fat.

NUTRITION DATA

MG

By the way I've just spent the past few nights reading this entire thread and digesting much of the material in the various links etc. along the way. All you guys have put an amazing amount of work in and I thank you all for that.

 

[Migrowgrower]

Dynamic Nutrient Accumulator Plants

Interesting read.

I notice that our beloved cannabis is one of the best sources of K..as an accumulator. also provides silica. Surely if a plant accumulates certain goodies then they would be equally good for teas. Flowering tea addition anyone? Got me thinking...comfrey and cannabis tea?

MG

 

[vonforne]

Interesting observation MG. Warrents a looksy.

BTW, Welcome to the OFC. Glad to have a fresh mind. When I get home tonight I will follow up on your links.

Jaykush is really into these teas made with natural, easy to find things. I'm sure he will be all over this one.

V