Oldtimer's Haze

[LostTribe]

It's fine I've used it before. It's a vitamin type of supplement.

View Image

Watered with the following today as plants pots were light.

1 gallon RO
8 drops Superthrive
5ml/gallon cal mag+ (upped ro from 0 to 220ppm)
5ml/gallon Liquid karma
1/2 tsp EJ high brix molasses
Ph 6.9
PPM 330

Runoff is much better now 600ppm and ph was 6.4 on this one. Plant looks worse overall since I started flushing. I feel the need to give light to mild bloom fertilizer 1 time this week probably around 6-800 ppm and higher ph probably like 7.2 to get it up a bit more.

LT

 

[SonicNurse92]

Hola a todos

Hi GoatChesse and lohnjennon!
Thanks for the help but i sacrificed the OTH male on Sunday. It wasn't nice at all, i didn't take a cutting and that's terrible. From now on i will take a genetic backup of every single regular strain.


See you on the other threads hermanos

 

[Sativied]

Heres my Purple Haze #5 female at 45 days of 11/13. Not looking her very best but we are working on remedying that!
View Image

Cheers Then,
LT

Watered with the following today as plants pots were light.

1 gallon RO
8 drops Superthrive
5ml/gallon cal mag+ (upped ro from 0 to 220ppm)
5ml/gallon Liquid karma
1/2 tsp EJ high brix molasses
Ph 6.9
PPM 330

Runoff is much better now 600ppm and ph was 6.4 on this one. Plant looks worse overall since I started flushing. I feel the need to give light to mild bloom fertilizer 1 time this week probably around 6-800 ppm and higher ph probably like 7.2 to get it up a bit more.

LT

I've given up on cannabis forums but this is so hard to watch silently as you are wasting time, space and energy.

The OT haze is besides its size and flower duration not any more difficult to grow than other varieties, or any "weed". They grow themselves. Only thing that can prevent that indoor is the grower. OT is just less forgiving to snake oils and other cannabis forum methods and loving it to death.

- Superthrive is snake oil.
- Way too much cal/mag, the new pk13/14, snake oil...
- liquid karma is snake oil
- molasses... too much actually causes an N def, using it as a snake oil

The best way to kill it faster would be to start giving it "bloom fertilizer" aka more snake oil, especially with all that Ca already in there. What it needs (or better said: needed) is general purpose complete nutes, what most in cannabis forums call "veg nutes".

You can throw all that at an OG kush or some inbred skunk cross and it will after trimming still look like bud despite and not thanks to the grower. With OT haze you cannot afford to do that without negative results.

Frankly, I think you should start over and not waste months more on this one. If you have to grow organic in soil use a large pot with premixed soil and all you have to do is make sure you don't under/over-water and perhaps add a little fertilizer, like a top dressing once or twice during flower. Better for both the plant, the grower, and the consumer, would be to use a simple basic complete no-nonsense plant fertilizer in low to moderate amounts.

Deficiencies from insufficient fertilizer is very very rare amongst cannabis growers. 99 out of 100 yellow plants I see online are over and misfed, and that includes yours. That run of of 600ppm would be better if it were actually the elements that cause the misbalance or a balanced drain by itself, which definitely isn't the case when you flush with that snake oil soup. Flushing should be done with regular complete balanced fertilizers, or better avoided completely. By the time you need to flush the medium you have to realize you over/misfed and thus gave it nutes the plant never asked for.

 

[LostTribe]

I've given up on cannabis forums but this is so hard to watch silently as you are wasting time, space and energy.

The OT haze is besides its size and flower duration not any more difficult to grow than other varieties, or any "weed". They grow themselves. Only thing that can prevent that indoor is the grower. OT is just less forgiving to snake oils and other cannabis forum methods and loving it to death.

- Superthrive is snake oil.
- Way too much cal/mag, the new pk13/14, snake oil...
- liquid karma is snake oil
- molasses... too much actually causes an N def, using it as a snake oil

The best way to kill it faster would be to start giving it "bloom fertilizer" aka more snake oil, especially with all that Ca already in there. What it needs (or better said: needed) is general purpose complete nutes, what most in cannabis forums call "veg nutes".

You can throw all that at an OG kush or some inbred skunk cross and it will after trimming still look like bud despite and not thanks to the grower. With OT haze you cannot afford to do that without negative results.

Frankly, I think you should start over and not waste months more on this one. If you have to grow organic in soil use a large pot with premixed soil and all you have to do is make sure you don't under/over-water and perhaps add a little fertilizer, like a top dressing once or twice during flower. Better for both the plant, the grower, and the consumer, would be to use a simple basic complete no-nonsense plant fertilizer in low to moderate amounts.

Deficiencies from insufficient fertilizer is very very rare amongst cannabis growers. 99 out of 100 yellow plants I see online are over and misfed, and that includes yours. That run of of 600ppm would be better if it were actually the elements that cause the misbalance or a balanced drain by itself, which definitely isn't the case when you flush with that snake oil soup. Flushing should be done with regular complete balanced fertilizers, or better avoided completely. By the time you need to flush the medium you have to realize you over/misfed and thus gave it nutes the plant never asked for.

You are totally correct and just today I was thinking about this mess of a soil grow. I have been in hydro for a decade solid without any exposure to MJ in soil. You are right the levels are totally off and fucked up by now. In Hydro I toss out nutes every 10 days and start over clean to keep everything in line. I have amended the soil and used the stupid liquid ferts far too much at the onset of flowering. Even with a reduced runoff there is no way to know what my NPK are at without a soil test.

I am going to wait a bit longer for my cutting to get bigger and toss it in with little to no ferts and start over.

I do think that in the end this one will still give me something worthwhile. It is showing progress in budding now and at 61 days I would hate to simply toss her and start over completely as I don't have anything ready to take over her space right now.

Can anyone post a decent soil recipe for simply watering only for Nitrogen sensitive sativa's? How about mixing ocean forest with peat and perlite? I still have 2 bags of that....Or I could just grab a bag of happy frog and go from there.

 

[akirabull]

if you want to continue the plant needs a transplant in new soil. use your ocean forest with peat and perlite and leave her recover .don't overwatering and no fert till the end, ec 0,0 - 0,4 ph 6.4-6.6

 

[LostTribe]

if you want to continue the plant needs a transplant in new soil. use your ocean forest with peat and perlite and leave her recover .don't overwatering and no fert till the end, ec 0,0 - 0,4 ph 6.4-6.6

thats what I am gonna do once lights on. I'm gonna do 40/60 OF/Peat then add in perlite. Straight water and pegged at 6.6.

 

[wildgrow]

Try this https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=258168 link LT. Or this https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=274773 one.

You can search more deeply going forward.

 

[Siever]

thats what I am gonna do once lights on. I'm gonna do 40/60 OF/Peat then add in perlite. Straight water and pegged at 6.6.

that should work. You can also use soil for sowing and cuttings.

 

[GoatCheese]

thats what I am gonna do once lights on. I'm gonna do 40/60 OF/Peat then add in perlite. Straight water and pegged at 6.6.

If you wanna grow in soil and bio/organic, i'd think for a hydro-guy moving into soil growing it would be easier to get a two-component nute series like BioBizz, rather than using bone meals, quano and so on.

I'm quite lazy when it comes to growing and so i have only used bottle-nutes, mainly the BioBizz nutes. Never had any deficiencies with BioBizz. If there was some nutrient based problem with the plants, it was my fault.
Don't get me wrong, it would be cool to know how to "build your own soil", but it's too much for me atm.

BioBizz is easy. i have nice resin and aroma on my bud and soft smoke(white ash) if i get the flush done right.

The two-component nutes (organic, any brand) are also quite handy cause you can create your own NPK-ratios by mixing the Grow and Bloom nutes according to your specific needs. = You need less N for sativa in flower? ..put less Grow-component into the mix and in later flowering you can leave the Grow-component out of it completely, and so the plants will get quite little Nitrogen in later bloom.



Very easy..

I don't know if you guys can buy BioBizz stuff over there in N America, but i'm sure you have something similar over there.





All you have to do is getting your watering-schedule on track, cause hydro-peeps can over/under water their plants when they make the shift into soil growing, especially if they grow in large pots from the start. =right sized pot for right sized plant makes it easier, the watering that is.


Here's a post i made on how, more or less, i use the BioBizz nutes during a flowering cycle. This is for hybrid plants, not for landraces of 100% sativas.

Along with the Grow and Bloom i use some Hesi-vit and Alg-a-mic some times. BioBizz Topmax bloom additive and some fulvics and blaah-blaah, but nothing special. Little Mineral Magic and mychoriza mixed into the soil. Sometimes little coco mixed in with potting soil.



I'm naturally so lazy when it comes to growing that many times i can't be bothered to mix in all the additives, so i guess i don't over use them that much these days. LOL
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7408485&postcount=68

Try to keep it simple, LT. You'll get it going in time.

 

[LostTribe]

If you wanna grow in soil and bio/organic, i'd think for a hydro-guy moving into soil growing it would be easier to get a two-component nute series like BioBizz, rather than using bone meals, quano and so on.

I'm quite lazy when it comes to growing and so i have only used bottle-nutes, mainly the BioBizz nutes. Never had any deficiencies with BioBizz. If there was some nutrient based problem with the plants, it was my fault.
Don't get me wrong, it would be cool to know how to "build your own soil", but it's too much for me atm.

BioBizz is easy. i have nice resin and aroma on my bud and soft smoke(white ash) if i get the flush done right.

The two-component nutes (organic, any brand) are also quite handy cause you can create your own NPK-ratios by mixing the Grow and Bloom nutes according to your specific needs. = You need less N for sativa in flower? ..put less Grow-component into the mix and in later flowering you can leave the Grow-component out of it completely, and so the plants will get quite little Nitrogen in later bloom.



Very easy..

I don't know if you guys can buy BioBizz stuff over there in N America, but i'm sure you have something similar over there.





All you have to do is getting your watering-schedule on track, cause hydro-peeps can over/under water their plants when they make the shift into soil growing, especially if they grow in large pots from the start. =right sized pot for right sized plant makes it easier, the watering that is.


Here's a post i made on how, more or less, i use the BioBizz nutes during a flowering cycle. This is for hybrid plants, not for landraces of 100% sativas.

Along with the Grow and Bloom i use some Hesi-vit and Alg-a-mic some times. BioBizz Topmax bloom additive and some fulvics and blaah-blaah, but nothing special. Little Mineral Magic and mychoriza mixed into the soil. Sometimes little coco mixed in with potting soil.



I'm naturally so lazy when it comes to growing that many times i can't be bothered to mix in all the additives, so i guess i don't over use them that much these days. LOL
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7408485&postcount=68

Try to keep it simple, LT. You'll get it going in time.

I am used to Pureblend nutes. but familiar with a lot of others.

what kind of strength would you recommend with this variety vs a normal commercial indoor strain?

Still use ~250ppm cal mg?

 

[BoldAsLove]

Haven't seen one person mention the microherd. EM1 can be had for extremely cheap when you make your own batches from the mother stock. Google "soil food web".

 

[dubi]

Excellent smoke report 2scoot

Congrats on your Oldtimer's Haze harvest, very few people have the patience to finish properly this extreme tropical sativa, i'm glad the outcome was worth the wait

Thank you very much for such enthusiastic feedback

Its been awhile since my the harvest of the 26 week OTH - buds have dried/cured beautifully into a mellow golden color. Buds are airy but the feel of these flower are so different than anything else I've had before - they feel almost wet but instead they are super sticky, gooey if you will.
I only had one plant and its become apparent this is my go to....
It doesn't take much, just a pinner and its Joy to the World!

For me - this is THE best, hands down, bud I have ever had the pleasure of smoking!
Its no Malawi with its terrifying initial onset, instead its a very gradual climb that is easy on all the senses. It just clicks all the right boxes for me:
Long lasting - 5 hours plus. Only takes 3 good tokes to put you in euphoria. Has no tolerance build up, its the same every day. Each toke will take you to another level. Great for socializing and being creative. Relieves minor aches and pains. The high is consistent and the "UP" stays on a very high level - meaning it gets you there and keeps you there! The come down is easy and gradual, just lays you down into a nice feather bed
If I knew someone that wanted to try bud for the first time - this would be it!
The negatives - flavor is not great. This one will be consumed quickly if I don't put it on lock down!
I cant say enough good things about this one....its a 10 for me. Your mileage may vary. Peace!

 

[dubi]

Beautiful haze cola Hrpuffnkush
Thanks for share it. is it oldtimer's haze ?

OLD Haze
indoor just over 8 weeks 11on13off schedule "moved out for picture"
View Image

Outdoor put out in july
View Image

 

[Levitationofme]

If you wanna grow in soil and bio/organic, i'd think for a hydro-guy moving into soil growing it would be easier to get a two-component nute series like BioBizz, rather than using bone meals, quano and so on.

I'm quite lazy when it comes to growing and so i have only used bottle-nutes, mainly the BioBizz nutes. Never had any deficiencies with BioBizz. If there was some nutrient based problem with the plants, it was my fault.
Don't get me wrong, it would be cool to know how to "build your own soil", but it's too much for me atm.

BioBizz is easy. i have nice resin and aroma on my bud and soft smoke(white ash) if i get the flush done right.

The two-component nutes (organic, any brand) are also quite handy cause you can create your own NPK-ratios by mixing the Grow and Bloom nutes according to your specific needs. = You need less N for sativa in flower? ..put less Grow-component into the mix and in later flowering you can leave the Grow-component out of it completely, and so the plants will get quite little Nitrogen in later bloom.



Very easy..

I don't know if you guys can buy BioBizz stuff over there in N America, but i'm sure you have something similar over there.





All you have to do is getting your watering-schedule on track, cause hydro-peeps can over/under water their plants when they make the shift into soil growing, especially if they grow in large pots from the start. =right sized pot for right sized plant makes it easier, the watering that is.


Here's a post i made on how, more or less, i use the BioBizz nutes during a flowering cycle. This is for hybrid plants, not for landraces of 100% sativas.

Along with the Grow and Bloom i use some Hesi-vit and Alg-a-mic some times. BioBizz Topmax bloom additive and some fulvics and blaah-blaah, but nothing special. Little Mineral Magic and mychoriza mixed into the soil. Sometimes little coco mixed in with potting soil.



I'm naturally so lazy when it comes to growing that many times i can't be bothered to mix in all the additives, so i guess i don't over use them that much these days. LOL
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7408485&postcount=68

Try to keep it simple, LT. You'll get it going in time.

That is 8 items plus Bla Bla Bla.....
perhaps not as simple.

 

[dubi]

Hi Dubi,perhaps I have not read it...soon i will take a pack of seeds of othaze(only for collection,i'm not sure they can be ready here...),the are mix of #23 and #19,or many different plant?thank you...

Hi willydread,

Current Oldtimer's Haze release contains Purple Haze 23 inbred lines, Green Haze 19 inbred lines, inbred lines from Green/Purple phenos and open pollinations of other rare phenos. Basically, it contains offspring from our best Green and Purple Haze, and open pollinationed lines to ensure the presence of healthy genetic diverisity and other rarer phenos.

 

[dubi]

Hi LowFalutin,

Yes, there's indeed a more compact early flowering Green Haze pheno, it grows more columnar than average, with fatter stems and bigger leaves, yet 100 % tropical sativa. It usually takes 14-16 weeks to fully mature, maybe a bit faster from clone.

Glad you found one It's a rare expression, maybe only 10-20 % of the Green Hazes belong to this pheno. Quality is similar to other phenos, but i still prefer the longer flowering ones to choose haze parental plants.

Hope it is an interesting one, and useful for your own breeding projects.

hola -
anyone ever gotten a shorter, more compact pheno of
pure green OT haze... that flowers quite a bit quicker
and doesn't stretch as much?

i've got one that seems it could end up a 13-15 wkr.
the leaves/serations look just like her stretchier,
longer-flowering sisters... just a little darker shade of green.

hopefully the high is equally as exquisite as the longer-
flowerers.

saludos

 

[dubi]

Hola SonicNurse92,

It was indeed a beautiful Oldtimer's Haze male, very well grown for such small pot and space.

Best wishes for the upcoming grow with new genetics

Saludos!

Hi GoatCheese!

This male is really healthy, smells really phucking nice and sweet!
I don't want to mess up the other females in the room (Destroyer, Panama, Pakistan Chitral Kush and Somango)
To be honest i don't want to sacrifice him but i don't have more space and to keep him on the tent next to Destroyer it's a risk i don't want to take.

I'm really really sad, i would keep him if i could . The only thing that brings me back to calmness is the 4 strains that sprouded today (Durban, Honduras, Ethiopian and Golden Tiger)

Last Pictures, 35 days of 11/13

 

[dubi]

Watered with the following today as plants pots were light.

1 gallon RO
8 drops Superthrive
5ml/gallon cal mag+ (upped ro from 0 to 220ppm)
5ml/gallon Liquid karma
1/2 tsp EJ high brix molasses
Ph 6.9
PPM 330

Runoff is much better now 600ppm and ph was 6.4 on this one. Plant looks worse overall since I started flushing. I feel the need to give light to mild bloom fertilizer 1 time this week probably around 6-800 ppm and higher ph probably like 7.2 to get it up a bit more.

LT

I have FF ocean forest and peat moss. I also have EWC, perlite, bone meal, blood meal and lime. Suggestions?

Hi LostTribe,

I would follow the tips i recommended you in your haze thread:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7721451&postcount=207

and transplant her to a pot with at least 30-50% more of the volume than the current pot. For the soil mix, this one is simple and works well:

60 % high quality peat
30 % coco fiber
10 % worm casting
a handful of guano in powder for every 15 liters

Haze likes soil with good aireation, it can handle very well long wet stages, especially outdoors, but indoors it works best alternating wet and dry stages in the soil .... a very tight, overfeeded and constantly wet soil can produce block outs and a slower, less healthier development. Try to be constant with correct ph, and don't be tempted to correct the unbalances with high doses of nutrients. Let her naturally recover after the transplant and keep the EC low (around 0.6).

 

[dubi]

Here are Purple Haze 23 and Green Haze 19 mothers grown outdoors in small pots, with similar size and flowering time to yours LostTribe.

Aged clones from both hazes were moved from indoors to outdoors in early Sept, then transplanted to a 20-30 liter pot with the simple soil mix commented in previous post. A bit of Rhizotonic was used next week after the transplant with correct PH (be careful, Rhizotonic can easily increase PH).

They started 12/12 photoperiod in late September equinox, pics were taken 3rd week of November (so they have aprox 2 months of flowering), a bit delayed and leafier in flowering due light contamination from the street lights, but doing ok. They have ben flowering almost without fertilizers, mainly with rain water. Indeed they have been flowering last weeks with plenty of rain (heaviest rains we have had since 2009, around 200 l/m2 in a few days) and not a single branch broken or any sign of bud rot.

First 3 pics is Purple Haze 23, with its taller, lankier, more asymmetric structure, only showing colors since the November rains and cold temps (10-18ºC).

The others are Green haze 19 with its more compact columnar structure, full green color (independently of the temps), a bit faster into flowering than the purple one.

 

[GoatCheese]

Nice Hazes for sure, Dubi.

Do you have a photo of the Green Haze male you used for the latest OT Green Haze stock, i'd love to see it? I bought 2 packs this summer, straight from the ACE shop.

Have you guys grown some of this new stock yet? Is there much variation on flowering times?