B
bringyalungs
week 12
week 12
week 12
Oldtimer's Haze
- Thread starter dubi
- Start date
B
bringyalungs
switched to 11/13 monday. patiently waiting... its been flushing for 2 days water, zone, clearex(flushing because of clawing and N because i havesting) and the new growth does not show any sign of clawing; which got me to thinking, what is too much N?, what does that look like?...you know you have too much N because of clawing... i guess is there any fool proof way to prevent too much N. say 6 weeks in to flower drop base to 50-75%? idk, just thinking....
Yeah the clawing is N overfert from what I have seen in these ace sativa threads.
I would not know what to do about nutrient issues in your situation. Speaking from an organic no-till perspective the plant would be sending signals to the soil as part of it's continuous stream of data.
This dialog between the plant and soil will allow the plant to receive the Nitrogen it needs at any given point in it's life cycle from the soil, soil fungi and microbes, and from intra-cellular storage within the plant itself.
The idea being that, when the plant and soil mostly self regulate, they get rid of the need for you, the gardener, to have to worry about things like nutrients.
I know that isn't of much help at the moment, but i do wish you much success with these plants. Some very interesting and unusual genetics to be working with.
Perhaps this information might be of some use.
Mesosphere,
How much N is too much N depend on the strain you're growing. Oldtimer's haze, just like any other tropical pure sativa, doesn't need a lot of N or any other nutrien lik P, K or whatever.
3rdeye: plants feed themself through osmosis: a substance goes from low concentration to high concentration. There is no dialogue between the plant & the soil. Too much N in the soil is bad for the plant & that's it.
How much N is too much N depend on the strain you're growing. Oldtimer's haze, just like any other tropical pure sativa, doesn't need a lot of N or any other nutrien lik P, K or whatever.
3rdeye: plants feed themself through osmosis: a substance goes from low concentration to high concentration. There is no dialogue between the plant & the soil. Too much N in the soil is bad for the plant & that's it.
Interesting then that i can grow full blown 14 week tropical sativas and very fat indica/sativa hybrids with no problems in exactly the same soil.
Osmosis is simply the mechanical action. Without talking about things like ATP and ionic gradients and active transport, all of which are at least partially modulated by the plant itself, then osmosis is only a small part of the picture. Plants most certainly do not feed through osmosis alone in healthy living soils.
Perhaps using inert media with ionic salts would have osmosis as the leading factor, but that is an artificial and manufactured scenario and does not reflect how plants act in concert with soil microbes.
I think most 14 weekers aren't "full blown" sativa. It seems to me they only are super sensitive if they are landrace or 16+. Most worked lines are used to higher nute levels and I don't think there is such a thing as a tropical landrace (with no hybrid influence) that flowers in under 20 weeks. But I'm not exactly experienced so just my 2cents.
Starting with small doses always helps. I never try to blow them out of the water in hydro like some. Basic PBP Soil formula with some pbp grow added at the begining, just a bit....
Good point. I suppose it is relative to short fat ultra dense cultivars that ripen in 7 or 8 weeks. I haven't had the pleasure or challenge of anything over 15 weeks as of now.
thanks
In order to produce a good amount of bud they do indeed need P and K. Nitrogen helps a ton to make them stretch early on in flowering. It mainly depends on what nutrients you're using or if you're using organics. I use Advanced Nutrients and you just have to limit the main basic nutrients and keep the boosters at a decent rate so the plants don't burn. All will come with learning trust me. I've had multiple talks with Dubi about the soil mixture he uses. From Dubi,
"I use similar soil mix for the past decade: a mix of high quality soil from north Europe (60 %), coco fiber (30 %) and a bit of worm casting and guano in polm (10 %). This my main soil for vegging big plants and for flowering."
He also mentions that he adds more guano in the later parts of flowering. I know Ace is crazy busy atm working on them new rare strains which I can't wait to run. Moving to Oregon in 6 months, planning on setting up some nice outdoor green houses with some sub lights if needed. Probably gonna run atleast a good 40-50 massive girls. A beautiful forest of lovely sativas, thanks Ace for the genetics
. Hope this helps and everyone the best of luck.I would just use the PBP and Liquid Karma. Use the Liquid Karma at full strength and The PBP at 1/2 strength. Just keep dosing down until harvest and keep the ph steady at 6.2. And harvest looks 8-10 weeks away for you. Really the most important thing is to keep the nutrient ppm levels constant. Letting the rez get depleted and then renourished sends nitrogen spikes. This haze is really sensitive to the nitrogen spikes. Thinking about it I would probably only run Liquid Karma in the last two weeks. That would keep you from any N spikes. I applaud your effort to try and grow a haze in a hydro setup. But really it may have its advantages. I've grown the haze and used the nutes but not together.
Good point. I suppose it is relative to short fat ultra dense cultivars that ripen in 7 or 8 weeks. I haven't had the pleasure or challenge of anything over 15 weeks as of now.
thanks
I've grown pure sativa's and pure indica's and if I give the sativa's what I need to give the indica's, they die.
Siever
That's because you are feeding them with "chemicals", i.e. salts. As you stated, it's very hard for the plant to counteract the diffusion of salts and their distribution via osmosis. Indicas seem much more tolerant to high salt levels.
Growing the most sensitive sativas is way easier in "organics", where there are no simple salts in the soil, but very small amounts are constantly produced by the soil ecosystem. The ecosystem will not produce more salts than the plant needs because, as 3rdEye pointed out, the plant communicates with the ecosystem - it "trades" with it sugars (or "commands" it via sugars) for exchange of received salts. The ecosystem cannot function without the sugars from the plant, as all the sugars from the organic breakdown processes have been eaten (in "mature" soil). For the same reason, a bag of worm castings stays for a very long time basically in the same state - all the breakdown processes have reached to a state where symbiosis with a plant is needed to continue.
I use worm castings made from cow manure and even tropical sativas are very happy in soil containing as much as 50% of worm castings. They will not be overfed even by pure warm castings, it's just that it doesn't have good drainage.
Not to mention the effect on flavor and taste....
No I do not.
I feed them organics: kelp meal whey from homemade yoghurt bonemeal and lava meal
