OlDirtyHuman
Well-known member
Thanks for running the test. I've been using some of these on clones and seedlings for a while.
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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons
- Thread starter blynx
- Start date
earthwyrms
Active member
HACKit
HACKit
i think one of the most important things here is getting a chart and/or datapage of the LED chip operating voltages and amperages.
for example: Philips 800 lumen, 8.5W (60W equivalent)
....has a notice on it about the ballast heating up and not putting it in enclosed spaces.
i pried the chip of the tiny heatsink base and cut the two wires.
they are labelled + and - (no guesswork there)
running them on bigger heatsinks with better power supplies should solve heat problems and give better efficiency.
but what voltage / amperage runs them?
Phillips is tight lipped, so far.
I need a multimeter anyway. Someone want to beat me to it with specs on their ballast output?
it is remarkable what an adequate heatsink will do. for example: just got a 10W (9-12V 900mA actually 8.1W to 10.8W) full spectrum COB chip. runs well on an adequate heatsink with only one screw in the base (i don't have a tap/thread set yet) and thermal compound from radioshack (radioshack labeled but actualy arctic silver, says on tube)
Heatsink picture attached, does not need fan. drilling and tapping may be (probably) needed. there are probably better options then this one like, for example: a giant block aluminum heatsink, drilled and tapped for an array. (harbor freight has some sweet deals on tappng/threading kits)
Model: 10W Size: 90mm * 30mm(OD*H)
Power: 10W Type: Aluminium Heatsink
this is just for passing on partly related data and for future thread skimmers / searchers (like me / i do)
back to it...
i believe hacking the chips to bigger heatsinks is better (and getting the power supply outside of the grow box).
i know this is going to sound crazy but i am wondering about how to build (and where to buy) an efficient current limiter for the mains, 115V, 230V. with a switching power supply, the voltage drop would be lower at mains voltage (or higher voltage, also supposedly its the amps that kill...it's the arcing to watch out for with the higher voltages). then 100x 1.2V or 200x 1.2V chips could be run in series (with good insulation) with low (hopefully) voltage drop and good (hopefully) efficiency.
HACKit
i think one of the most important things here is getting a chart and/or datapage of the LED chip operating voltages and amperages.
for example: Philips 800 lumen, 8.5W (60W equivalent)
....has a notice on it about the ballast heating up and not putting it in enclosed spaces.
i pried the chip of the tiny heatsink base and cut the two wires.
they are labelled + and - (no guesswork there)
running them on bigger heatsinks with better power supplies should solve heat problems and give better efficiency.
but what voltage / amperage runs them?
Phillips is tight lipped, so far.
I need a multimeter anyway. Someone want to beat me to it with specs on their ballast output?
it is remarkable what an adequate heatsink will do. for example: just got a 10W (9-12V 900mA actually 8.1W to 10.8W) full spectrum COB chip. runs well on an adequate heatsink with only one screw in the base (i don't have a tap/thread set yet) and thermal compound from radioshack (radioshack labeled but actualy arctic silver, says on tube)
Heatsink picture attached, does not need fan. drilling and tapping may be (probably) needed. there are probably better options then this one like, for example: a giant block aluminum heatsink, drilled and tapped for an array. (harbor freight has some sweet deals on tappng/threading kits
)Model: 10W Size: 90mm * 30mm(OD*H)
Power: 10W Type: Aluminium Heatsink
this is just for passing on partly related data and for future thread skimmers / searchers (like me / i do)
back to it...
i believe hacking the chips to bigger heatsinks is better (and getting the power supply outside of the grow box).
i know this is going to sound crazy but i am wondering about how to build (and where to buy) an efficient current limiter for the mains, 115V, 230V. with a switching power supply, the voltage drop would be lower at mains voltage (or higher voltage, also supposedly its the amps that kill...it's the arcing to watch out for with the higher voltages). then 100x 1.2V or 200x 1.2V chips could be run in series (with good insulation) with low (hopefully) voltage drop and good (hopefully) efficiency.
Attachments
Art Vandelay
Active member
Go with yer bad self Blynx. I've been down for last couple months but I'm right behind you on this one! Great info and Ace is having a led sale until the 8th buy 2 get one averages from $3.50 to $5 a bulb Feit brand
Cur
Member
I am looking forward to that! This is great information, and the idea of a true comparison grow is exciting, as well.
Keep on keeping on.
LungButter420
New member
Cool info.
Not too surprised to see an increase without the lens, kind of similar to light being lost in an AirCooled reflector because of the glass in front of the bulb. I'd also be interested to see readings with the CFL at different positions. Just by their shape, I feel like LED's are much more "directed" while the CFL just kind of sprays light everywhere. Haha rambling, but cool thread!
LB420
Not too surprised to see an increase without the lens, kind of similar to light being lost in an AirCooled reflector because of the glass in front of the bulb. I'd also be interested to see readings with the CFL at different positions. Just by their shape, I feel like LED's are much more "directed" while the CFL just kind of sprays light everywhere. Haha rambling, but cool thread!
LB420
HerBnGorE(illa)
Member
After reading this thread I decided to go find some led bulbs to see how they penetrate the canopy vs my current 3 cfl setup.
I found some cheap leds over at the local "lowes" ....9 watts, 750 lumens...a 2 pack for $3.98....so i went ahead and stocked up enough to replace all the bulbs in my house and for the grow. i figure now i am running 3 23 watt cfls for ~1500 lumens each or so, so about 6 of the leds in the cab will be a fair match to see how they work.
I do have some questions on how to approach this. I run a perpetual system in a pc case, so there is never any "down time" to do the switch. Will it be ok to do the sudden switch when plants are at various stages of flowering?
Also, with winter approaching should i wait until spring to make the transition? the heat from the cfls probably actually helps me out a bit in the cool temps. however, i also see that once those cfls turn off at night the plants are exposed to a greater change in temperature. so would it be better to run a little cooler during lights on so that change in day/night temps is less?
thanks for the help in advance....and thanks again blynx for a great thread.
I found some cheap leds over at the local "lowes" ....9 watts, 750 lumens...a 2 pack for $3.98....so i went ahead and stocked up enough to replace all the bulbs in my house and for the grow. i figure now i am running 3 23 watt cfls for ~1500 lumens each or so, so about 6 of the leds in the cab will be a fair match to see how they work.
I do have some questions on how to approach this. I run a perpetual system in a pc case, so there is never any "down time" to do the switch. Will it be ok to do the sudden switch when plants are at various stages of flowering?
Also, with winter approaching should i wait until spring to make the transition? the heat from the cfls probably actually helps me out a bit in the cool temps. however, i also see that once those cfls turn off at night the plants are exposed to a greater change in temperature. so would it be better to run a little cooler during lights on so that change in day/night temps is less?
thanks for the help in advance....and thanks again blynx for a great thread.
HuffnPufferfish
Member
losing light (or less light, you also want to see what youre doing ha) wont do any harm, in nature you have cloudy days, or even eclipses, people worry too much about nature sometimes
yes, run em at night to even out temp (plus might be cheaper depending on your contract, running them at night saves me 20%)
I was waiting for someone to do this! Thank you Blynx!
3-5x as much light at the same distances from the 60w? Guess that means all my CFL spiders just became LED spiders...
Can you do me a favor and test a 23w CFL? I would imagine its about 2x what a 10w puts out.
3-5x as much light at the same distances from the 60w? Guess that means all my CFL spiders just became LED spiders...
Can you do me a favor and test a 23w CFL? I would imagine its about 2x what a 10w puts out.
HuffnPufferfish
Member
a 23w cflw i have here puts out 1170lm
the cheapest 10w led i could find puts out 840 (with the diffuser lens on it)
besides that cfl is toxic and waste light 360 degrees
the cheapest 10w led i could find puts out 840 (with the diffuser lens on it)
besides that cfl is toxic and waste light 360 degrees
CFL' s are only toxic if you break them, and then not very. You can get more efficiency (re:360 degrees) by using a reflector.
HuffnPufferfish
Member
anything thats a neurotoxin, cannot be recycled and posses a health risk for me AND plants around me would be avoided when possible
im already as mad as a hatter and i dont drink alcohol so no mercury for me
im already as mad as a hatter and i dont drink alcohol so no mercury for me
polyflowerbud
Member
neurotoxins destroy nerves, but neurogenesis can occur-
endocrine disruptors are seriously bad though.
endocrine disruptors are seriously bad though.
I had a 11w 800 lumen bulb that did the best vegetating. Super green plants, nice and squat.
I would go for a 17w flood with lenses on it for flowering. One for each plant. If you end up with more than 17 grams per plant your above 1GPW right there. Some plants can do well under them, because I believe their leaf and resonance structure is designed for directional light like the sun.
I would go for a 17w flood with lenses on it for flowering. One for each plant. If you end up with more than 17 grams per plant your above 1GPW right there. Some plants can do well under them, because I believe their leaf and resonance structure is designed for directional light like the sun.
kezark31
Member
wont the angle create massive dark spot in the area due the the directional design?
i'm digging these leds Blynx looking forward to seeing some ladies under'em.
Here's the measurement at 12"
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measurement 12" over
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measurement at 6"
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measurement at 9"
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front view
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measurement 12" over
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measurement at 6"
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measurement at 9"
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front view
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I was running some 42w 2700k bulbs but they were old and used and I wanted to do these tests with all new bulbs so I went out to replace the 42w and I was only able to find a 40w.
Here's a 40w 2700k CFL bulb
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Here's a 40w 2700k CFL bulb
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Here's the measurement at 12"
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measurement 12" over
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measurement at 6"
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measurement at 9"
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front view
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measurement 12" over
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measurement at 6"
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measurement at 9"
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front view
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